Walking the Camino de Santiago Across Spain

That really depends on you, and how far you can or like to walk in a day, and how many rest days you take. (Keep in mind many refuges only let you stay one night—although usually you can spend longer than that in large cities.) It generally takes 4 to 5 weeks from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. I took closer to 6 weeks, but I was taking it easy.

Also, make sure you leave enough time to enjoy your final destination, Santiago de Compostela.

In medieval times, pilgrims walked, rode horses, and/or took a ship from homes all over Europe to Santiago de Compostela.

Nowadays, to officially complete the pilgrimage and receive your Compostela, all you have to do is walk the last hundred kilometres (62.1 miles) to Santiago (which can be done in three or four days). However, many pilgrims start farther away. Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (France) and Roncesvalles (Spain) are two of the most popular starting points.

If your time is limited, figure out how far you can walk in a day, and calculate from there. Be sure to give yourself a few extra days' cushion in case you get hurt or sick. If you're right on time, you can always spend those days wandering around Santiago. Otherwise, read through some guidebooks and figure out what makes sense for you in terms of your budget and what you want to see.

Although there are only about 26 kilometres (16.2 miles, or a day's walk) between Roncesvalles and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, your choice between them can make a big difference. The Pyrenees stand between the two towns, and if you start in Saint-Jean-Pied you have to cross them—so the very first day of your pilgrimage is one of the most challenging.

If you want to cross the Pyrenees but find walking 26 kilometres on your first day a little daunting, you have a couple of options.

1. If you take the Route Napoléon, there are two places to stay on the way up the Pyrenees. The first is the Ferme Ithurbia in Honto, 5 kilometres (3.1 miles) from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. the second is the Refuge-Augerge Orisson, about 10 kilometres (6.2 miles) from Saint-Jean. You can find information on both places in any Camino guidebook, but do remember accommodation in France tends to be more expensive than in Spain.


2. If you take the road route, there is a hotel in Valcarlos, 11 kilometres (8 miles) from Saint-Jean.


3. If you have enough time, I would recommend starting your walk in France, a few days before the Pyrenees along the GR-65. I took the route from Le Puy-en-Velay, and one of my favourite parts of the whole pilgrimage was watching the Pyrenees get a little closer each day. Starting before Saint-Jean also gives you a chance to enjoy French cooking and hospitality while building up your walking muscles in the foothills. The only possible downsides to this option are that it makes your pilgrimage more expensive, since food and accommodation cost more in France, and it's not an option if your time is seriously limited

Summer on the Camino is terribly hot and there are so many people that it's hard to find beds. Spring and fall have the best combination of reasonable weather and not as many people, with May, June and September having the best weather.

Some people also walk the Camino in winter. There might be snow, and not as many refuges are open after November, but I've heard it can be a good experience if you're looking for a more solitary walk. However, it can also be dangerous. The weather can be treacherous, and pilgrims have died crossing mountain passes in bad winter weather.

Also, consider the year you're planning to walk. In Holy Years, when St. James' Day (July 25) falls on a Sunday, numbers of pilgrims increase drastically. 2010, 2021, 2027 and 2032 are all Holy Years.

The Confraternity of Saint James has tons of information on the pilgrimage, including a great packing list.

Just about everyone takes too much. Leaving some items behind, sending them ahead to Santiago, and/or sending them home often seems to be part of the Camino experience.

There are a lot of places to sleep along the Camino. Usually, the next place is a maximum of 20 kilometres (12.4 miles) away—and often it's much closer. Guidebooks have information on everything from pilgrim's refuges (called refugios or albergues in Spanish) to rooms above bars to five-star hotels.

The pilgrim refuges are very popular. They're basically hostels, usually with double—and even triple—bunk beds, or occasionally with mattresses on the floor. Rooms are not segregated by gender, and there might be five bunks in a single room, or over a hundred. Sometimes the beds come in pairs, so you might find yourself sleeping next to a stranger.

Refuges are usually relatively inexpensive, and some are by donation (donativo). They range from extremely basic to the occasional fancier private refuge. They usually have a common area to hang out in and many have kitchens (although not necessarily pots and pans). A few provide food, either for a fee or donativo, with everyone helping prepare the meal.

Refuges are usually run by municipalities, religious organizations, pilgrims' associations, or private individuals. Many of the people who run them (hospitaleros or hospitaleras) are volunteers who walked the Camino in the past and want to give something back.

In summer, refuges fill up very quickly, so the pilgrimage can become a race to get a bed. This was not a problem when I was there in October and November except within 100 kilometres (62.1 miles) of Santiago, where even in mid-November some refuges were full.

The Camino Documentary (working title) is still a work in progress, but judging from the trailer, it's going to be excellent. It follows the stories of several very different pilgrims as they walk the Camino. Director Lydia Smith is currently raising funds to finish the documentary.

For more information, visit the Camino Documentary website or read my interview with director Lydia Smith.

If you've enjoyed my photos on this page, check out one of my Zazzle stores for Camino art cards and more. Click on your country to see the available images: Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, France, Germany, Japan, New Zealand, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the UK, or the USA.