Tips on cat-proofing your house

Scratching is one of cats' most deeply ingrained instincts and something they need to do, not only to wear the outer sheaths of their claws, but also to excercise and keep their muscles from becoming atrophied.

Scratching posts come in different sizes and shapes. Some are as simple as a normal post, while others are built in the shape of trees, kitty condos, climbing platforms and the likes. They can also be either vertical or at an angle. You have to think not only of your cat, but also of the space you have available in order to find the one that suits you best. Regardless of what you pick, I recommend that you get a scratching post tall enough so that your cat can fully stretch and excercise his muscles while at it.

Another alternative is using nail caps. Nail caps are vinyl sheaths that are glued to your cat's claws and cover the tips, so that they can no longer damage the surfaces when scratching.

Though this is also a pretty popular alternative, please bear in mind that it is only advisable for completely indoors cats. Cats' claws are their main defense mechanism in case of an attack, whether to fight back or run away by climbing to a tree's highest branch... therefore, if your kitty likes to go outside for a stroll, even if only during the day and without ever leaving your backyard, I don't recommend this option and would go with the scratching pole instead.

Nail caps come in different brands, sizes and colors to choose from . Please bear in mind that there is a short learning curve to putting the nail caps on your cat's claws, since you must first trim the claws, and always use the kit's glue only.

A third alternative I can suggest is using deterrent spray and/or sticky tape on the surfaces you don't want your kitty to scratch.

Though this would not be my first choice due to the mixed reviews these methods usually get (meaning, they seem to either work perfectly or not at all), I consider it a good option for mostly indoor cats who nonetheless like to venture outside for a stroll and therefore cannot afford to have their claws covered; as well as more convenient that many scratching posts in terms of costs and space (specially space).

Household cats definitely need litter boxes where they can do their business, and it is important to say that they can be extremely finicky on this subject.

Therefore, choosing the right litter box for your cat can be of utmost importance and determine just how successful you are in the whole litter box-training process. The main thing is that the box must be comfortable for your cat and easy to use; after all, it IS the cat that is going to use it, isn't it? However, owners must also consider their own convenience, since budget is obviously a factor and there are litter-boxes for all pockets.

Some things to consider are:
- Size and depth of the litter-box: If you have a tiny kitten, chances are a deep box will be hard for him to jump into; therefore, a shallow box no deeper that 3 inches is advised. For adult cats, on the other hand, it is advisable to have a litter box about 6 inches high.

- Style and features: the market offers a wide variety of litter boxes other than the classic open flat box. There are hooded litter boxes, designer litter boxes, self-cleaning litter boxes... it will all depend on your cat's preference and your budget.

- Ease of cleaning: the classic flat box is the easiest to clean. Though there are some self-cleaning boxes out there, please bear in mind they are not flawless and DO need some manual cleaning every so often.


Here are some litter boxes

Now that you've picked a litter-box, you obviously need cat litter to put in it. There are several types of cat-litter to choose from; some of the most popular being:

1) Clay: There are 2 kinds of clay cat liiter: Clumping and non-clumping.
- Clumping is among the most popular. This clay is made from Bentonite, and it clumps together when moist. Because of this, it is quite easy to clean and keeps bad odors at bay. To use, fill the litter box at about 2.5 in deep, remove clumps and solids daily, and refill as necessary to keep a convenient amount. Empty entire tray once a month (based on one adult cat) and replace contents with new litter.

- Non Clumping: it absorbs and helps prevent bad odours, but it doesn't clump. Therefore, it requires more maintenance and must be completely replaced once a week (based on one adult cat). To use, fill the litter box at about 1.5 in and remove solid waste regularly between complete litter box changes.

2) Crystal Based/Silica Gel: It has the highest moisture absorbency and absorbs liquids almost instantly, which greatly reduces odours. Remove solid waste daily after it has dehydrated and stir crystals to extend life. This type of litter can be used for up to a month for one cat without changing the material, though it is still advisable to replace it once a week.

3) Organic: These are made from renewable resources and recycled materials that would have otherwise gone to waste. It can be clumping or non-clumping, and it is recommended for homes where either humans or animals have allergies. It is also great for odour control. (They include brands made from plant materials, wood, and paper.)

Here are some cat-litter options

You have the litter-box and the litter... now, you probably want to find a way to keep the litter from spraying onto your floor thanks to your kitty's enthusiastic scratching!

So, check these out

Brush your cat, especially if he's a long-hair breed or moggie because in these cases hairballs could be the least of your problems. Long-haired cats are prone to the formation of mats (clumps of dried, tangled hair in your cat's fur), which in many cases can only be fixed by a professional groomer or a vet.

Check these brushes and grooming mittens

Like the title says, I suggest these as aids only and not as replacement for traditional brushing. This is because, though they DO help, they are rarely as effective and thorough as human, manual brushing can be, but it is a good idea to leave some of these lying around the house so that your kitty can help himself to them once in a while.

So, check out these self-grooming aids

You've done your best to keep your cat's shedding to a minimum. You brush him once a day (and if you don't yet, you should definitely look into it) to help him get rid of those loose hairs and perhaps you've even placed some grooming aids around the house. BUT, he's a cat. He STILL leaves hairs lying around every surface he sits on, albeit less than he used to.

So, what can you do to control that? To completely avoid shedding, nothing. I'm sorry. However, you can easily protect your couches and chair usng inexpensive methods or more sophisticated ones.

The easiest thing to do is buying some inexpensive fabric in a colour of your choice, that combines with your house's decoration, and use to cover the beloved couch that your master -sorry, I meant, 'cat'- has already claimed as his own. That way, you can always remove it when you receive friends and when you yourself want to sit on it.

A more sophisticated option, which your kitty will probably appreciate, is getting him his very own bed or mat to lie in/on, and place THAT on the couch or bed that Master is already hogging. For example, in the pic to your right you can see my Strider sleeping on the bed, but ON his thermal kitty mat, instead of directly on the comforter. The mat is easily washable and this has helped me enormously.

Here are a couple of cat-bed/mats suggestions for all budgets