China, The Middle Kingdom

"We are one-half through our journey. It is everything I expected, hoped for, and more. There have been moments, even entire days of frustration, fear, exhaustion. But even in the midst of this discomfort, John and I have reveled in the joy of discovering the unknown, overcoming the obstacles, and feasting our eyes, ears, touch, taste and smell on China." Personal Journal Entry April 14, 2008

"It seems to matter not the quality or amount of a night's sleep. We are tired. It's beginnnig to feel a marathon of the spirit. It is both the physical exertion of exploration but I believe more than that the mental/emotional exertion of days filled with frustration, misunderstanding, dashed hopes, and a perpetual string of things unexpected. Although constantly on our toes, we are continually off-balance. One moment leads to the other as opposed to one moment leading the other. It is a never ending poker match." Personal Journal entry -- April 15, 2008

Driving in China: "I have been astounded at how things seem to magically fall away just as we are to collide with them. It is as if slow motion is invoked when anything gets within an inch of something else.I've tried closing my eyes but my curiousity gets the better of me. Personal Journal Entry -- April 9, 2008"

Lijiang's old town is a World Heritage Sight and has been the base of the 286,000 strong Naxi tribe for the last 1400 years. They descend from ethnically Tibetan Qiang tribes and lived until recently in matrilineal families. There are strong matriarchal influences in the Naxi language. Nouns enlarge their meaning when the word for 'female' is added; conversely, the addition of the word for 'male' will decrease the meaning. For example, 'stone' plus 'female' conveys the idea of a boulder; 'stone' plus 'male' conveys the idea of a pebble.

My hands-down favorite dish during the trip was boiled octopus and squid with bamboo shoots and other vegetables in a fiery sauce. Shuizhu Yu. Very Sichuan! And Ganbian Sijidou -- check out the recipe below.

The Monastery of Divine LIght is 18 km (or about 12 miles) north of Chengdu and is an active temple.

The 80 year project to carve a Buddha into the cliffs of Leshan in 713 A.D., resulted in the largest buddha in the world. Sitting in an alcove of sorts, he guards boatmen at the confluence of 3 rivers. A World Heritage Sight, he's 71 meters high, 233 feet. His ears are 7 meters!