Darts That Fit And Flatter

One of the most exasperating problems with darts on sewing patterns is to finally get the dress or blouse to fit right, but the dart ends up above the
bustline or below the bustline.  We know it looks funny, with the dart not pointing TO the bustline, but rarely does the home sewer know what to do about it.  Whether you wear plus size clothing, petite size clothing, or any size
in between, the same "dart" problems remain.

Try on a few dresses or blouses that you've made to check out what the dart line really looks like -- once you've noticed how it actually looks, you'll be determined to never have the side bust dart in the wrong position again!  The following diagrams and instructions will help you get the dart position right on every future garment you make!

RAISING AND LOWERING AN EXISTING DART TO THE RIGHT POSITION ON YOUR PATTERN

A.  To find the correct position of your
dart, measure from the shoulder to the bust point and mark that distance on your pattern.  If this mark is above or below the dart on the pattern, you'll have to move the dart. (NOTE: 
Begin the "shoulder" measurement on your pattern below the seam allowance -- don't include the seam allowance in the measurement)

B.  The easiest way to lower a dart is to
measure the necessary distance and make a mark at the dart point and along the side seams.  Connect the new marks and the dart is moved - shown by dashed lines.

C.  In order to restore the shape of the
side seam to its original position, tape tissue paper under the dart so it extends past the side seam as shown.  Fold and pin the dart as if it were sewn and cut the tissue paper that extends past the seam line, following the original seam line.  Remove the pins and you have your new seam line.

D.  The same method is used for raising a
dart.  However, if you have to raise it quite a bit, you'll need to angle the dart (E) so that the top line of the dart doesn't come too close to the armhole.  When you angle the dart, you
need to use the same dart width at the side seam as it previously had.  Fold and pin the dart and redraw your side seam (C).

Another challenge with commercial (store bought) patterns is that some of them have NO darts, and you feel more comfortable with darts in your blouses and dresses.  Or perhaps you'd like to change the position of the dart that's on the pattern, and just don't know quite how to do it, or even remove the dart from the pattern altogether.  The "Darts That Fit and Flatter" on line clothing alteration and sewing class includes all the information mentioned plus much more! 
The sewing instructions are easy to follow and the sewing tips that are included make this a much needed class.

You can see how easy it is to
change the dart positions on a store bought pattern.  Darts that fit and flatter is a class you won't want to miss!  The information in this class will be of great help in getting the
store bought patterns to fit properly and look like a professionally fitted garment. There are two
"darts that fit and flatter" 
classes available - one for the regular S-XL size ranges, and the Full Figure class for those who are 1X - 8X size ranges.

 DARTS101 - "Darts That Fit And Flatter" Class
- $9.95

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