How to take interesting photos using common, everyday objects
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Creating more interesting images with everyday household objects
I like taking photographs using everyday objects, but staging them in a way so that they look like something completely different.
I want to talk through some of the methods I use to make an object look like something else.
Want to try and submit your own? Go ahead.
I want to talk through some of the methods I use to make an object look like something else.
Want to try and submit your own? Go ahead.
On-camera flash does not work
We're not going to do very well with an on-camera flash. Potentially, we could redirect it with a mirror or reflector, but don't leave the light heading straight ahead. It'll just wash out anything we're trying to do.
We're much better having the flash off-camera. If you have a DLSR, but don't have the flash off-camera, then the first thing is to get some off-camera lighting whether it's a hotshoe flash, a studio strobe or continuous lighting. You'll also need a method for triggering the flash, e.g. pocketwizards, cactus triggers or similar.
There are more ideas for what kit you'll need at Flash Photography Equipment.
Want more advice on how to take photos with flash, especially off-camera flash, then look at this lens: Better Flash Photography
We're much better having the flash off-camera. If you have a DLSR, but don't have the flash off-camera, then the first thing is to get some off-camera lighting whether it's a hotshoe flash, a studio strobe or continuous lighting. You'll also need a method for triggering the flash, e.g. pocketwizards, cactus triggers or similar.
There are more ideas for what kit you'll need at Flash Photography Equipment.
Want more advice on how to take photos with flash, especially off-camera flash, then look at this lens: Better Flash Photography
1) Light it differently
Here's the first technique. Light the object differently.
We're so used to seeing objects in daylight or under indoor lights, we can change what we look at by changing the light drastically.
If you think about an indoor object, it's likely lit from above by one or two main sources, there may be some sunlight from the window, maybe even a little light from a TV. There will be a lot of reflected light as the main lights bounce off walls, ceilings, glossy bookcases, the glass in picture frames, etc.
That's what we're used to seeing.
So let's change it.
First thing is to control the light. Turn off any unnecessary lights, block sunlight (unless it's necessary to the shot) and dim down any remaining lights. Treat these light the emergency lights in theatres or airplanes; enough to stop you tripping up and causing any damage, but not enough to see clearly.
Now put a flashgun/strobe off camera and a place it anywhere but on top of the camera.
Placing it behind the object, facing towards the camera can give a nice halo effect. Placing it to the right of the object, about 3cm from the object towards the camera. And position the flash beam across the face of the object. This is great for increasing shadows and bringing out the texture of the object.
We're so used to seeing objects in daylight or under indoor lights, we can change what we look at by changing the light drastically.
If you think about an indoor object, it's likely lit from above by one or two main sources, there may be some sunlight from the window, maybe even a little light from a TV. There will be a lot of reflected light as the main lights bounce off walls, ceilings, glossy bookcases, the glass in picture frames, etc.
That's what we're used to seeing.
So let's change it.
First thing is to control the light. Turn off any unnecessary lights, block sunlight (unless it's necessary to the shot) and dim down any remaining lights. Treat these light the emergency lights in theatres or airplanes; enough to stop you tripping up and causing any damage, but not enough to see clearly.
Now put a flashgun/strobe off camera and a place it anywhere but on top of the camera.
Placing it behind the object, facing towards the camera can give a nice halo effect. Placing it to the right of the object, about 3cm from the object towards the camera. And position the flash beam across the face of the object. This is great for increasing shadows and bringing out the texture of the object.
The Lords of Light
The Lords of Light image was inspired by 1950s science-fiction, especially the movie posters and book covers. I'm too young to have been around then, but I like the simplistic look of aliens in many of the images.
This was taken using 4 candle/tea-light holders as props and two speedlights; one behind and one to the side.
Influenced by 1950s science fiction. I was trying to capture some of the spirit ...
The background to the Lords of Light image, with the props separated.
The background to the Lords of Light image, with the props still together.
curated content from Flickr
2) Change the background
Putting something common in an unusual situation can make you think twice about what it is. Imagine a child's toy in a science lab.
Nowadays, we're way too used to seeing objects on a white background. Put the same object on a black background and it will emphasise other aspects of the object.
You don't even need an actual black background, just step up the strobes and control the shutter speed and aperture to achieve a black background.
Nowadays, we're way too used to seeing objects on a white background. Put the same object on a black background and it will emphasise other aspects of the object.
You don't even need an actual black background, just step up the strobes and control the shutter speed and aperture to achieve a black background.
Need more equipment?
Stairway to Heaven
The Stairway to Heaven image features a central-heating radiator with two speedlights on the corner. The camera was positioned near the radiator, looking across the radiator towards the speedlights.
The shallow angle of the speedlights and the camera to the axis of the radiator accentuates the ridges and shadows.
Capturing images using everyday objects.
The background to the Stairway to Heaven image. It's a central heating radiator ...
curated content from Flickr
Flash Photography books
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3) Turn it around
We look at objects the same way everyday. Ever seen the back of a mirror or the underside of a rug? Very different to the side we see all the time.
So take your everyday object and turn it around, upside-down, on its side. Whatever floats your boat.
So take your everyday object and turn it around, upside-down, on its side. Whatever floats your boat.
Eyeball
This is one of those snowglobes that you put small photos in. I think some of the liquid has evaporated or leaked as there's a small bubble of air at the top. That was just what I was looking for in this image.
I haven't enhanced the colours; if you look at the photo in the snowglobe, it really is that saturated. It was just a bad print.
Capturing an image that looks like an eyeball using common objects.
The background to the Eyeball image. The snowglobe is at the top of the stairs. ...
curated content from Flickr
Post your links to your best Flickr photos
Got an image on Flickr you think fits this lens (i.e. an odd perspective on a common object), then post the link here.
Light stands
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4) Get in close
If you've got a macro mode, use it on a part of an object you're not used to seeing close up.
We're not for those microscope images of cloth, instead aim to show some texture. Mix this with some harsh lighting, e.g. non-modified bulb or flash at a low angle and you can create some great effects.
If you've got an SLR, check how close you can focus. You may find that changing lenses will allow you go closer in. Usually it's a relative to the focal length of the lens, e.g. my 28mm lens allows me to focus closer than my 50mm. And better still for this purpose at least is the fact that the shorter focal lengths will distort the image more, making it more interesting.
If you don't have a macro mode, you may be able to purchase macro convertors, allowing you to focus closer with you existing lenses.
We're not for those microscope images of cloth, instead aim to show some texture. Mix this with some harsh lighting, e.g. non-modified bulb or flash at a low angle and you can create some great effects.
If you've got an SLR, check how close you can focus. You may find that changing lenses will allow you go closer in. Usually it's a relative to the focal length of the lens, e.g. my 28mm lens allows me to focus closer than my 50mm. And better still for this purpose at least is the fact that the shorter focal lengths will distort the image more, making it more interesting.
If you don't have a macro mode, you may be able to purchase macro convertors, allowing you to focus closer with you existing lenses.
Looking for flash photography techniques?
Macro rings on eBay
Fetching new data from eBay now... please stand by5) Use Gels
Just as we get used to seeing an object from one perspective, we also get used to seeing objects in the same light. I mentioned above about using flashes at different angles. We can also use light of different qualities.
Try using two flashes and put a coloured-gel over one strobe and leave the another bare. Using this technique, we're not aiming for what we normally see. Instead, we're using the difference in colours to highlight different parts of the subject.
Don't have gels? If you've got umbrellas, then try a coloured reflective umbrella and a translucent shoot-through.
Try using two flashes and put a coloured-gel over one strobe and leave the another bare. Using this technique, we're not aiming for what we normally see. Instead, we're using the difference in colours to highlight different parts of the subject.
Don't have gels? If you've got umbrellas, then try a coloured reflective umbrella and a translucent shoot-through.
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