Costume Degree Year One

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The First Year of My Costume Degree

This is lens about the costume degree I studied and will eventually be a lensography of my Costume lenses with a bit more information about when and why I did certain projects.

I studied Costume for the Screen and Stage at degree level and this is a breakdown of the coursework I produced during the first year.

Perhaps after looking through all this you'll begin to realise why I couldn't watch Period Dramas without coming out in hives for years afterwards!

More lenses will be added as I work my way through all my old coursework and remember all the bits and pieces of work I produced!

Summary of the Year

Including:

Book lists
Included here are links to books that were featured on the booklist I was sent before starting my degree. These include books about costume history, costume construction and costume design and illustration.
Sewing Kits
A sewing kit was a must! And a thimble was very important. Anyone caught without a thimble suffered a quick, smart rap to the knuckles. OK, so that's not true but we got a few harsh words. Because apparently there is this urban myth that your finger might go septic but I've actually sewn through my finger on the sewing machine a few times and I survived *touch wood*. But thimbles are fun. You can wear them all day and point at people and sing "indestructible finger"... not that I ever did that. I didn't go into constructing costumes in the end but I'm glad I took the time to learn that I wasn't very good at it!
Macbeth and the Medieval Period
I believe this was the first project we ever did on the course. One of our course tutors had painted some gorgeous costume designs for Shakespeare's play "Macbeth" and we had to get into teams and construct the costume together. I got the boots, hat and trousers. Oh yes, I am the accessory girl!
Volpone and the Renaissance and Jacobean Period
My costume designs for this project were diabolical which is a shame because the Renaissance and Jacobean era is one of my favourites for costume. I adore ruffs and corsetry but my designs for Volpone (an Elizabethan play where all the characters are based on different animals) totally sucked. You'll see how awful they are for yourself in a moment. One of my designs was so hysterically awful that I gave it away to a friend who it amused greatly.
The Servant of Two Masters and the Commedia Dell' Arte
In the first year we got to go to Venice during the carnival which was brilliant. Venice is so beautiful and it was exciting to run around snapping photos of masqued strangers. I still have three masks that I bought there which are pretty cool. The Commedia Dell' Arte is a traditional type of Venetian theatre with stock characters- it's basically where Punch or Punch and Judy came from, along with the harlequin and I believe that interminably pessimistic soul- the pierrot.
The Rover and the Restoration
Wow this was a pretty boring project. I think at this point I was totally sick of costume history. The Rover was fairly yawnsome at the time. Although looking through my sketchbook I quite like some of the costume history research I did. I think I made two pretty nice final costume designs for this project but of course, I can't find them now. I really wish I'd gotten back into textiles earlier on in my degree. It almost m,akes me cry now thinking about all the cool little samples I could have produced, instead of cutting up pieces of old curtains and thinking they would do for making the costumes!
The Sea King's Daughter
This project was an utter dream, A kids' fairytale, what better project could I have asked for. I was pleased with the samples i made for this. I wish I'd made more at the time. The costume designs you'll find on my Sadko lens (named after the main character) and in the Sea King's Daughter photo gallery aren't my original designs. The original ones were way too appalling to show and were destroyed shortly after they were returned to me after being marked. I think on one I actually glued seed beads onto the paper! How embarrassing!
Well, I was kinda in a rush. I had to get the designs in early because my bestest Rachel buddy and me had a date with a Buffy the Vampire Slayer convention - which reminds me, I should dig out the bodice I made for that to show you!

Things to put in your sewing kit

What's your essential sewing item? Add it here.

Here's a few important items for costume construction. Don't forget to get a thimble!

Gingher G-8 8-Inch Knife-Edge Dressmaker's Shears

Gingher G-8 8-Inch Knife-Edge Dressmaker's Shears

The classic 8" knife edge dressmaker's shears more...0 points

Wiss Carpet, Upholstery and Fabric Shears / Scissors

Wiss Carpet, Upholstery and Fabric Shears / Scissors

Snips, Shears, & Scissors Overall Length: 10-1 more...0 points

Metal Slip Stop Thimbles-2/Pkg 1 Small & 1 Medium

Metal Slip Stop Thimbles-2/Pkg 1 Small & 1 Medium

Whether you're doing some simple darning, or appli more...0 points

Large New Sterling Silver Classic Etched Sewing Thimble

Large New Sterling Silver Classic Etched Sewing Thimble

This is a Sterling Silver Classic Etched Thimble measuring more...0 points

Clover Open Sided Medium Thimble, 1 Per Pack

Clover Open Sided Medium Thimble, 1 Per Pack

Adjustable open sided thimble that fits your finge more...0 points

Clover Tracing Wheel Serrated Edge

Clover Tracing Wheel Serrated Edge

Ergonomic design for easy use and comfort to the h more...0 points

Clover Double Tracing Wheel

Clover Double Tracing Wheel

Use the double tracing wheel to draw two parallel more...0 points

Dritz Single Face Tracing Paper- 6''x19'' 5 Sheets

Dritz Single Face Tracing Paper- 6''x19'' 5 Sheets

Wax-free indicates that the paper is safe to use o more...0 points

Dritz Deluxe Seam Ripper

Dritz Deluxe Seam Ripper

The Dritz Deluxe Seam Ripper is small and convenie more...0 points

"The Scottish Play"

William Shakespeare.

Ah! Macbeth, old friend.

This play really is like an old friend to me. I studied it for GCSE English (for which I got an A) so I used to know it inside out. I'd also designed costumes for the witches in Macbeth whilst I was still at college studying my GNVQ in Art and Design. Those costumes were kind of abismal but the textiles surface work was pretty.

In the photo gallery below you'll find images from my Medieval costume research sketchbook and images of our team's finished costume plus some of my textiles samples.

We had to make the whole costume out of cheap calico which we had to make look as uncalico-ish as possible, using dyes and wax and embroidery etc.

Eurgh.

I just remembered how much I hate dyeing fabric *shudder*.

Macbeth: The Cambridge Dover Wilson Shakespeare (Cambridge Library Collection - Literary Studies)

Amazon Price: $18.26 (as of 02/18/2012)Buy Now

Macbeth (or the Scottish play) is a classic Shakespeare tale featuring witches *gasp* (When shall we three meet again?), a king *hoorah* and a wicked overbearing villainess wife *boo* (take my milk for gall!).

Wicked Macbeth commits all sorts of dastardly deeds, under the direction of his ambitious wife and then goes mad. He thinks he can't die because when he consults one of the witches she gives him impossible conditions under which his death will occur. Watch as they all come true!

Macbeth, the Medieval Period and Team Work

A History of Costume in the West

Francois Boucher and Yvonne Deslandres.

If we bought just one costume book from the list then it had to be this one.

History of Costume in the West

Amazon Price: $99.67 (as of 02/18/2012)Buy Now

This is a great and thorough costume history book. It was my first reference when ever I needed to know what sort of garment was worn when. it's a pretty hefty tome with a mix of black and white and colour images. It's also pretty wordy but I mainly used it as a visual reference. It's pretty cool because it goes back quite a long way (prehistoric costume) and forward to about the 1980s (briefly).

Volpone and Other Plays

Ben Jonson.

Why, project, why?

You should have been fun, you should have been a delight.

You should not have involved cheap sequinned fabrics... What on earth was I thinking?

As I've already said, in the summary for this year, the Renaissance and Jacobean era was one of my favourites for costume so I should have jumped into this project with both feet and had a great time.

Looking through my research I think I got some good stuff down in my sketchbook but with the benefit of hindsight now I wish I could go back and really throw myself into the research. I wish I'd tried to make samples recreating little bits of fabrics from painting and ruffs etc but of course I wouldn't have had the time. Maybe that would be a fun textiles project for the future - recreating bits of ancient textiles.

At this point I still haven't grasped how to make actual costume designs. You can find my appalling attempts in the gallery below. They look like I drew them with cheap felt tip pens and are lacking considerably in historical detail. My design for Lady Would-Be looks like something Dame Edna Everage would be comfortable wearing!

Volpone and Other Plays (Penguin Classics)

Amazon Price: $5.72 (as of 02/18/2012)Buy Now

In the play Volpone (meaning Fox) all the characters are based on animals and act according to those animal's traits. There's Volpone (the titular character) who is a cunning, deceitful fox, Mosca (the fly or parasite) is a servant, Voltore (the Vulture) who is a lawyer, Corbaccio (the Raven) who is an old rich man, Celia (the swan), Lady Would-Be - a squawking parrot in more ways than one, Peregrine (the Falcon) who is a dashing traveller and so on.

Volpone is a comedy (a satire of greed and lust) from the early 1600s. Basically Volpone (a very rich man) pretends to be dying and ready to change his will to benefit whoever pleases him most, so that he can sleep with his friend Corvino's young wife, Celia.

Renaissance and Jacobean Project Work

Patterns of Fashion

I used to own this book and somehow it's gone missing, which is a shame, not that I'm in the habit of making costumes these days, Tudor or otherwise.

Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's Dresses & Their Construction C. 1660-1860

Amazon Price: $22.49 (as of 02/18/2012)Buy Now

I highly recommend this book if you're wanting to make a Tudor costume and I recommend her other books too if you're interested in other periods of history.

There are accurate patterns for costumes in this book and other details that you will find very useful.

Venice and A Servant to Two Masters

Our class visited Venice in February during the carnival.

Venice is such a beautiful place and I recommend it to everyone. The colours and the light bouncing off the water are just so beautiful. We had an opportunity to visit the islands of Murano and Burano too where glass and lace are made.

Unfortunately I didn't have a digital camera then (this was back in the Dark Ages) so I've had to make do with scanning in some fuzzy photos - sorry about the quality.

In conjunction with our trip to Venice we also studied the Commedia Dell' Arte which is a form of improvisational Itallian theatre. For this porject we had to study each of the traditional characters that appear in these plays which are traditionally as follows:

The Zanni:Arlecchino, Brighella and Pedrolino.

Arlecchino (Harlequin)
Pantalone
Il Dottore (The Doctor)
Brighella (also known as Scapino)
Il Capitano
Colombina (Smeraldina)
The Innamorati
Pedrolino (Pierrot)
Pulcinella (Punch)
Sandrone
Scaramuccia (also known as Scaramouche)
La Signora
Tartaglia

Although Commedia Dell' Arte productions are improvised we worked from the play "The Servant of Two Masters" and designed costumes for that.

We then went on to make a part of one of our costume designs.

I made a bodice from my design of Smeraldina. Unfortunately I don't know what I've done with the design or the bodice. If I find either I'll add photos of them at a later date. I have a sneaking suspicion that I might have chopped the Smeraldina bodice up for another textiles project however.

The Servant of Two Masters & Other Italian Classics (Paperback) (Eric Bentley's Dramatic Repertoire)

Amazon Price: $5.00 (as of 02/18/2012)Buy Now

This play is the story of Truffaldino, the servant of Beatrice who, disguised as her dead brother, travels to Venice to find his murderer - her lover, Florindo.

Truffaldino is always hungry and takes on another master in the hopes that he'll get an extra dinner out of it. Turns out that this new master is Florindo.

Venice Carnival

Techniques of Modern Masters

Costume Design: Techniques of Modern Masters

Amazon Price: $107.68 (as of 02/18/2012)Buy Now

This was one of my favourite books that I used on my course.

It's more of a book for costume designers and illustrators rather than those more interested in constructing garments.

This is a full colour book, packed with actual costume designs and interviews with various well known costume designers in film, TV and theatre.

My Restoration Corset

The Rover and Other Plays

Aphra Behn.

I was quite pleased with the designs I produced for this project. I was beginning to feel better about designing for period pieces. Of course I can't find the bleeding designs now. I'll have to have a look for them at some point. My initial costume designs were absolutely awful, that's why I haven't featured them in the gallery below!

However you can see some of my costume research.

We also spent this project learning to make our first bodice/corset (see above). I'm really pleased with this because it was quite a difficult piece of construction that I managed to achieve quite well.

The Rover and Other Plays (Oxford World's Classics)

Amazon Price: $7.37 (as of 02/18/2012)Buy Now

The Rover was a very popular Restoration comedy.

The story follows a rake names Willmore who falls in love with Helena who's just about to be sent to a convent by a her brother.

Helena is determined to experience love first.

Angellica Bianca (who is a famous courtesan) falls in love with Willmore and then is determined to seek revenge against him when he betrays her.

Hellena's sister, Florinda, is in love with Colonel Belvile and wants to marry him but her brother has other idea.

Poor Blun thinks that a girl has fallen in love with him but all along she was a prostitute.

The Restoration

The Sea King's Daughter

The Sea King's Daughter was a nice bit of frothy fantasy lovliness at the end of the year. This was a project where I had fun experimenting with little textiles samples.

At the same time as this project we also looked specifically at creating costumes for TV. These designs were supposed to be for a TV production called The Sea King's Daughter.

You can find out more about this project in the lens below.
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Images From The Sea King's Daughter

Coming Soon

Year 2

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About Melted Rachel

Textiles Artist.

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MeltedRachel

I'm Rachel, a textiles artist from the southwest of England.
I love using recycled materials to create one-of-a-kind:
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