I always recommend a good book. As it's great to have books on hand to quickly look up any information that you need.

After reading as much information online about the crested gecko make sure that you know how to choose a crested gecko before bringing one home.

Rhacodactylus:
The Complete Guide to their Selection and Care

Crested Geckos
(Complete Herp Care)

Crested Geckos and Relatives
(Reptile and Amphibian Keeper's Guides)

Crested Geckos:
From the Experts at Advanced Vivarium Systems

Crested geckos make good beginner reptiles. Although, they are known jumpers, they are very docile and can be handled, but it should be done so carefully. Letting the gecko just jump from hand to hand without force is best.

If you grab at the gecko, you have a chance of it dropping its tail, and unlike many gecko species, crested geckos do not regenerate their tails.

Limit handling juvenile geckos, but if you do, do so carefully. It is not recommended handling baby crested geckos, as it will cause unnecessary stress on the gecko.

These little guys are on average 4-4.5" long, from nose to vent and normally about 8" to include the full length of the tail.

Because crested geckos have only been in the about reptile market since about 1994, the lifespan of the animals have not been fully averaged. It is assumed that like most other geckos in the reptile market, crested geckos will live up about 15-20 years. But, that is just an estimated guess.

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When housing crested geckos, never house two males together. Males are territorial and will fight causing wounds, lost tails, or even death, when they are housed together. Multiple females can be housed together; they can, also, be housed with one male, but in this scenario they will breed, causing unneccessary stress on the female

Again, these geckos are an arboreal species and need a cage that is more tall than it is long. Three geckos can live comfortably in a 29 gallon aquarium, but if you only want to house one, a 15-gallon tall aquarium will do.

Personally, I use clear plastic tubs that I purchased from Target. Tubs are cheaper than buying an aquarium to house the geckos. They provide the proper height that is needed. Plus, there are several different sizes available, all of which much cheaper than aquariums. But, in this case, proper venatilation MUST be added.

Always remember that crested geckos need proper ventilation in their cages, whether glass, acrylic, or plastic. Most tall aquariums, whether fish or reptile aquariums, screen lids are usually either provided or not to far away. With my tubs, I cut the center portion of the lid out and replaced it with screen. To attach the screen, I used a hot glue gun. The screen allow fresh air to enter the tub, and the proper ventilation is achieved, avoiding stagnant air and a mold infestation.

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Many people use Bed-A-Beast, Repti-Bark, or some other type of naturalistic bedding for the substrate in a crested gecko enclosure. But, using loose substrates can cause impaction when the gecko leaps towards a cricket, and instead of grabbing a tasty gut-loaded cricket the gecko grabs a mouthful of substrate. I recommend using paper towels, newspaper, reptile carpet, slate, or some other type of tile.

The décor in the enclosure can be either simplistic or more naturalistic. Either way you choose, make sure you utilize the space in the enclosure effectively. Try to add ample climbing and hiding places, to include plants, branches, or anything else you can think of. Crested geckos like to jump, so adding branches, egg trays, or anything, allows more jumping platforms, aiding the prevention of floppy tail syndrome.

*** Floppy Tail Syndrome is caused by enclosures that lack climbing sources. The gecko hands upside down on the walls of the enclosure with the tail flopping over it's back. This can deform the gecko's pelvis and give them a crooked appearance or they can develop a hump in their back.***

The simplistic approach is more practical than it is aesthetically pleasing, involves egg cartons, which are cheap and provide ample hiding places and climbing surfaces. If you do not want to use egg trays, you can use fake or real (potted) plants, branches, and cork bark. Crested geckos like to curl in the leaves of the plants during the day. Branches allow more climbing area. Cork is good for hiding, as well.



The naturalistic approach is, obviously, more aesthetically pleasing than it is practical. If you choose this method, it is always best to buy a larger enclosure for you gecko because you will need to add plants and branches. This approach involves the use of loose substrate and mosses as floor covering. Live plants are added either in pots or planted in the substrate. Branches and bark are placed in the enclosure as well. The advantage of a naturalistic type enclosure is that it provides the geckos with amply hiding places and climbing sources. But, on the other hand having loose substrates creates the risk of impaction.

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Because crested geckos are nocturnal, they do not require any supplemental lighting. It is recommended that they receive indirect light from a window, but do not place the enclosure directly in front of a window, as this can raise the temperatures. This creates a day/night cycle.

Fluker's Digital Thermometer / Hygrometer

Day time temperatures can range from 72-80F. Night time temperatures can range from the high 60s to the low 70s. No supplemental heating is necessary as long as these ranges can be met. If the temperatures rise above 80F for an extended period, it can be fatal to you crested gecko

ESU Reptile Digital Thermometer

Crested geckos do not need high humidity constantly. The enclosure can stay fairly dry during the day, and through misting once or twice a day, the humidity will rise. For babies and juvies, I mist my cages twice a day: once in the morning and once at night. For adults, I mist the cages only once at night.

Keeping too high humidity will increase the chances of fungus. On the other hand, low humidity all the time can cause shedding problems. Misting the enclosure, creates a balanced humidity level.

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There are three main components of a crested gecko's diet: Crested Gecko Diet, baby food, and crickets.

T-Rex Sandfire Super Foods Crested Gecko Diet MRP Meal Replacement Powder

The Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) was formulated by Allen Repashy and provides all the nourishment that a crested gecko needs. It can be purchased at most pet stores. By following the directions on the bottle, you should make a liquidy mixture that over a day or so turns more of a jelly substance.

Some crested geckos will only eat baby foods, but in reality, baby food should only be a supplement to the CGD. Preferred baby food flavors include: peaches and apricots, but other flavors such as applesauce and bananas can be feed.

Crickets should be fed about every other day or so. Remember to gut-load the insects at least 24 hours before feeding them to you gecko. By feeding the crickets, nutrients obtained by them will be passed on to the gecko. You must still coat the insects for added minerals!

As for water, a bowl of water can be provided, but for the most part, the geckos will drink the water off the décor and the enclosure walls when the cage is misted.

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