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Curly Hair Care

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Caring for curly hair.

 

Those with straight hair long for our beautiful ringlets and voluminous locks. But we know the burden of curls. The frizz, the coarseness, the unruliness and, of course, the hopelessness of it all. But, no more!

 

Curly hair is different. There's no doubt about it. This being true, we can't treat it the same as other hair. There are rules, but with a little bit of effort and a lot of enthusiasm about the gorgeous hair God gave you, you can have amazing, manageable curls!

What makes hair curl?

The truth is, no one knows! Not even scientists are quite sure why hair is curly, straight, or a complicated mix of the two. They do now, however, that it has a lot to do with the shape and angle of the hair follicle itself. For example, curly hairs grow out of ovular follicles at an angle.

The curliness of hair has also been linked to the prevalence of disulfide bonds in the shaft. Hair is made primarily of a protein called keratin, and keratin contains sulfur atoms. These atoms are prone to bonding, and when they do, the pull of one on the other causes the shaft of the hair to bend.

What can I do about it?

It's sad, but it's true. The grass is always greener on the other side. Those with stick-straight hair long for our springy, spunky look, while we would love to roll out of bed one morning and not look like a character off of the Muppets.

It is possible to temporarily alter the shaft of the hair, to be either curly, straight or somewhere in between. Remedies have come about to get hair straight to varying degrees, with varying success and for varying costs.

  • Traditional straighteners.

    These are the foils of the curling iron - they imitate a large pair of tongs, with flat plates of some material (often ceramic or steel) that are heated. Sections of hair are sandwiched between these plates and drawn through.

  • Relaxers.

    These are products containing a high amount of alkalines (usually lye) that are used to "relax" the hair. The treatment is permanent until new growth comes in.

  • Thermal reconditioning.

    Also known as Japanese straightening, this is a process similar to relaxers that is suitable for not just ethnic hair. It uses caustic chemicals to break down the bonds inside the hair, leaving it stick-straight, but also often brittle and damaged.

  • Brazilian keratin treatment.

    This is a treatment that utilizes the natural protein found in hair to seal the cuticle, leaving hair soft, straight and shiny for a few weeks to a few months.


Of course, the best thing of all you can do is to embrace your curls! Curls are timeless and classy. Harken back just a few decades, to the twenties, or earlier, to the Victorian age, when women with thick ringlets falling over their shoulders or done up in glittering pins were the epitome of beauty.

Curls evoke a sense of both youth and maturity, of carefreeness and sophistication. It's no mistake that women want their hair curled for their most important occassions - weddings, proms. Stop the battle and learn to love your curls! With a few simple changes of habit, you'll be the absolute envy of everyone around.

The Curly Girl Method of Hair Care 

The "CG" method of hair care was pioneered by Lorraine Massey in her book Curly Girl. It is recommended that all curlies give this book a good read and keep it close at hand for inspiration and tips, but it's tenets are known amongst its followers and are for sharing.

1. Avoid noxious chemicals: don't shampoo!

"What?!" I hear you exclaim in disgust. Don't shampoo? That's right. Who ever told you to shampoo, anyhow? Did you ever question the need? Although most shampoos smell nice, come in neat looking packages and bear promises of healthier hair, the fact is that they're all more or less the same.

For example, all shampoos are surfactants. This is something shared with other household cleaning agents, like detergents. And while you wouldn't wash your hair with detergent, you'd be surprised at how close it is to the truth.

Shampoos are full of a bunch of things that can be double-edged swords for hair. Silicones, for example, are used to smooth and add shine to hair, but are difficult to remove and can build up on the shaft. "Cones" are discussed at length in this article by curly girl Tonya McKay.

Shampoos are also full of sulfates, used to give it that nice, rich lather that makes us so sure something good is happening. In truth, these are harsh detergents that do nothing to the hair but strip it of its natural oils.

2. Condition correctly!

No one is telling you not to wash your hair (although many people have had great success without any product at all!). As we've discussed, curly hair can be dry and flyaway. And there are a lot of things you can do to amend this! Unfortunately, most cosmetic companies don't care about your hair. Although conditioners are a lot more gentle than shampoos, drugstore brands still contain silicones and other unnecessary gunk.

As is often the case in life, it is now best to go natural! Lines of natural cosmetic products, or products formulated just for curlies, are paraben and silicone free, and have embraced many natural ingredients that are great for curly hair, including aloe, honey, avocado, flax seed and various oils.

In the curly community, the method of washing hair using only conditioner is known as a "co-wash." Believe it or not, hair can be cleaned fairly well with just conditioner and a little friction. Scrub the product into the scalp and drag through the roots and underlayers. Let it sit and rinse.

2. Handle with care!

Curl formation is everything. It is the difference between Little Orphan Annie ringlets and Carrot Top craziness. Our hair is fragile, so it's important to be gentle with it.

First and foremost, never brush curly hair. This separates the strands, sending them into a frizzy frenzy. To untangle, brush conditioner through your wet hair in the shower with a large, wide-toothed comb.

Second, don't dry hair in the usual manner. Rubbing a terrycloth towel over your hair or twisting it up can break the fragile strands and ruin curl definition. Often, all you need is to apply a little product or leave-in conditioner to wet hair, scrunch with fingers and let it dry naturally.

Hair can also be blown dry using a diffuser. Alternately, dry the hair with a microfiber towel or cotton t-shirt. These are gentler on the hair and don't cause static.

Amazon Spotlight 

Curly Girl

Amazon Price: $9.95 (as of 12/02/2008)Buy Now

Curl Friendly Product Lines 

Sites that offer paraben-free, silicone-free, all natural hair products designed with you in mind! These are for curlies, by curlies, often thought up by frustrated folks just like you, made in their own kitchen. And, for convenience, all listed products are available online!
Devacurl
Products developed by Curly Gurl pioneer herself, Lorraine Massey.
Jessicurl
Independent business founded by curly herself, Jessica McGuinty, offering all natural curl care.
Moptop
Curl friendly products for dry, frizzy hair.
Kinky-Curly
High performance natural products for kinky, curly or wavy hair.
Curl-Junkie
Products for the curl-addicted!
CurlFriends
Beautiful hair. Perfect curls.
Curlisto
Curly hair care by Christo.
Miss Jessie's
Miss Jessie's original hair care.

CurlFriends Products 

Buy CurlFriends products from Amazon.com!

Curlfriends Nourish Rinse Out Conditioner, 7 oz.

Amazon Price: $15.00 (as of 12/02/2008) Buy Now

Curlfriends Nourish Rinse Out Conditioner, 1 Liter

Amazon Price: $36.95 (as of 12/02/2008) Buy Now

Curlfriends Seduce Pomade

Amazon Price: $14.00 (as of 12/02/2008) Buy Now

Curlfriends Replenish Leave-In Conditioner

Amazon Price: $23.00 (as of 12/02/2008) Buy Now

Curlfriends Control Gel

Amazon Price: $18.00 (as of 12/02/2008) Buy Now

Kinky-Curly Products 

Buy Kinky-Curly products on Amazon.com!

Kinky Curly Curling Custard 16 oz

Amazon Price: (as of 12/02/2008) Buy Now

Kinky Curly Knot Today8 oz

Amazon Price: $13.99 (as of 12/02/2008) Buy Now

Kinky Curly Come clean 8 oz

Amazon Price: $11.99 (as of 12/02/2008) Buy Now

Great For Your Curls Ingredients 

A good rule of thumb is, if you wouldn't put it in your body, why put it in your hair? That having been said, there are a myriad of all natural products that are great for your hair, and many can be found right in your own pantry!

 

  • Flaxseed
    Flaxseed is the seed of an erect annual plant, flax. The seeds are rich in natural oils and, when prepared, produce a great amount of mucilage that is useful in natural styling gels. When used, it gives firm hold but soft, touchable curls.

 

  • Avocado
    The oil of the avocado is used for hot treatments for the hair, while both the oil and the flesh can be used on their own or found in many products offering deep-conditioning. It is an incredible, natural source of moisture.

 

  • Honey
    Honey, as we all know, is the byproduct of bees doing their business. There are numerous varieties, from clover to raspberry, depending on the source of the nectar. But all honey is good honey, as far as hair is concerned.

    Honey is a natural source of moisture and shine. It can be used as a hot treatment for the hair, or added to other hair products to assist with soft hold, shine and bounce.

  • Almond
    Almond wax or almond oil is used similar to honey or milk. It adds softness, moisture and shine.

  • Milk
    Milk is naturally nourishing to the hair, is light and leaves it soft and fresh.

 

  • Coconut
    The flesh, oil and milk of coconuts are found in hundreds of hair care products. It is a light, fresh fragrance and works wonders on curls. The oil works best when massaged into the ends of wet hair, although it can also be added to existing products for a moisturized, nourished shine, softness and scent.

Curly Haircuts & Styles! 

The first and most important thing one can do in moving towards a flattering, curly haircut is to know that cutting curls is an art, and not just anyone can do it. You wouldn't ask the fellow who paints your house to decorate the Sistine Chapel. Why let that lady at GreatClips go to town on your beautiful hair?

You've got to find someone who knows what he or she is doing. Who knows the curl intimately and will cut it so. There's something in the eye of this stylist - he or she is confident and cool, whereas most hairdressers balk at the site of your curls, getting it wet or straightening it before even attempting to take a literal "hack" at the hair.

Finding a Curl Friendly Salon 

Find a Devachan certified salon.
The Devachan method of curl cutting and coloring is likely the most revered and revolutionary of its kind. Curls are cut dry, with nothing but a scissors, allowing the hairdresser to sculpt each individual's unique hair. Devachan salons also offer a patented coloring technique called "hair painting," that allows color to be applied to the curls by a skilled, artistic eye determined to complement each ringlet.
Find a Ouidad certified salon.
Ouidad salons offer special services alongside their skillful curl-cutting, including damage repair and curl highlighting. You can also call for an on-the-phone curl consultation!

 

  • Thinning
    Thinning is rarely ever a good thing for curls. Although it sounds straightforward enough, thinning is different than removing bulk from hair. It can cause frizz, flyaways and curls that are much more unruly than before you started.
  • Layers
    Layers, when executed properly, can help to remove bulk and to sculpt curly hair. However, stylists who are not used to cutting curls will often attempt a lot of layers without knowing what to do. This can result in very blunt levels, producing a horrid "tiered" look.

Bangs!

That's right. Bangs. These deserve a section all their own. In today's teenage world, where scene cuts are all the rage, and being able to see only one eye is chic, curlies are feeling the pull to go short in front. Resist! The fact of the matter is, bangs are difficult to work on even the most well-behaved curls. Unless you know that your hair will behave up there on your forehead, or you plan on straightening or styling them every morning, it's best to steer clear of bangs entirely.

Wear Your Curls With Pride! 

Take a look at some pro-curly products.

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