Custom Motorcycles

You've decided that you want to own a custom motorcycle, but you are not really sure how or where to begin. There are numerous things to think about before you start on your quest for that original, unique, or unusual custom motorcycle.

First, do you want to completely build a custom motorcycle from the frame up, or to modify an existing bike, or order one fully built to your specs? What size bike are you thinking about? Large, small or in between? Do you want agility & speed, or do you just want to look awesome while you cruise the highway? You'll need to figure out how much money you can afford to part with in the long run & whether your plan of ownership will most likely take you weeks, months or even years to complete.

Second, can you spare the time to do the customization/modification on your bike yourself, or do you have the ability to have the work done for you. If you plan on doing your own work, (as do most of us) you will need to consider what tools you might need, where your work space will be located, how much help from like-minded friends you're likely to get, and your level and variety of skills. Last but not least, do you have the motivation and dedication to follow through once you have started creating your own custom motorcycle?

Third, how much work must be done to a bike to make it a custom motorcycle anyway? Here-in lies a controversial argument. Some say it's not a custom motorcycle, unless you change out basically everything on the bike and others say changing just a couple of things makes it custom. This is the logical answer; make it uniquely yours in any way you want! Build it, modify it, expand it, downsize it, lighten it, strengthen it, make it more agile, paint it, strip it down or build it up, just make it yours! If you've had it modified and it is no longer "stock", or you've modified it yourself, congratulations! You now own a custom motorcycle!

Fourth, get out there and ride!!

One of the most worthwhile performance mods you can do to your custom motorcycle, is to put on lighter wheels! I know, you see that these wheels weigh like 10 pounds less than oem, so you're thinking, 10 pounds isn't going to justify dropping all that cash for light custom motorcycle rims. But the real thing to consider is not how much weight are you losing, it's where is the weight you are losing?

Lighter rims will make a enormous change in the handling of your bike, acceleration and deceleration "braking" of your bike for the following reasons.

Non-Rotational Weight:
One ounce reduced from a rims total weight, is equal to 4 ounces removed from another part of the bike. Magnesium wheels will on average weigh about 10 pounds less than your stock aluminum wheels. This is equal to 40 pounds of weight loss on the streetbike, not too bad...

Rotational Weight:
This is the weight reduction on the outer rim of the wheel and this is where the weight loss makes a RIDICULOUS improvement. At 100mph, each oz of weight removed here, is the same as having 25 lbs of weight removed from the motorcycle! This is legitimate weight that must be turned, accelerated, and stopped, and likewise, it will improve cornering, acceleration, and stopping.

At any speed the reduction is proportionate to the velocity of the bike. As you increase your velocity the weight savings will increase exponentially. There are different types of lightweight custom motorcycle wheels out there, made in a variety of different materials, such as aluminum, magnesium, and carbon fiber.What to expect:

Most people who upgrade to light wheels, experience better acceleration, better engine braking, "lighter feeling" in motion, and easier turning, with no perceivable stability loss. Due to their ability to start moving so easily, many riders report being able to slide with the back tire around corners, but without any loss of control.

Conclusion:
Although they may be expensive, I honestly feel that lightweight motorcycle wheels are an unbelievable modification for anyone looking to get more performance from their bike. What other part can you get for your motorcycle that allots you better handling, better braking, better acceleration, and better looks for that kind of money?

When looking for your first motorcycle, there are a few things that you should look for. This article should help you out so that you or someone you know will not end up with a lemon. I know it may be tempting to buy the first motorcycle you find... don't! It's always a smart idea to search around and see what your options are, whether it's the cost, engine displacement, or the model or style of motorcycle that suits you. I suggest purchasing a used motorcycle from a private seller via your local newspaper, or a classified website like Craigslist.org. Dealers are typically very over priced for used motorcycles, as they mark them up over bluebook value.

While you're looking for a motorcycle, be sure you bring a motorcycle savvy friend with you if you have one. Also, the search requires a certain set of "tools". I like to carry a flashlight and a small mirror with me when I am looking for a motorcycle. Even in the middle of the day, a flashlight can be a good friend. Begin by looking at the overall "look" of the bike. Does it look shiny and new, or are there scratches and dents? Any sort of damage over the foot peg level, can mean that the bike has been laid down or crashed. Then, move on to the tires. Do they look worn or cracked? Are they slicks or track take offs? Do they have a good amount of tread left? Inspecting the tires is a good way to tell what the bike has been used for.

After you have looked at the tires and the body work, move on to the most important part of the bike, the motor. Look for large quantities of grease, oil, and dirt, if there is a good amount of any of these substances, it can tell you a lot about how well this machine has been maintained. If there'sthere is too much grease, oil, or dirt, it could be a sign of potential problems. If the bike is too clean, that could mean that the seller is trying to hide something from you. Just remember that some dirt is normal. Look at the engine covers, are they factory, or have they been replaced? You can learn a lot just by the style of covers that are on the motor. If the engine covers have a performance brand name on them, chances are they aren't OEM covers. This could mean that the motorcycle you are checking out has been raced. Another way to find out if it has in fact been raced, is to look at the heads of the bolts holding it all together. If they have holes drilled in them, the bike has most likely been raced. These holes are for small cables that go through the head of the bolt as a safety measure, and are required by most tracks.

Now take a look at the chain/belt and sprockets. They can tell you a lot about how the bike has been ridden. If there are teeth missing on the sprockets, it can mean a few things. It can mean that the motorcycle has been ridden hard, or stunted. It could also mean that it really hasn't been taken care of as well as it should have been. When inspecting the chain/belt there are a few things to look for here as well. Is the chain rusty, has it been repaired, how much slack does it have? For a belt, the same kind of scenario, is the belt frayed, missing teeth, cracked or broken? Either way I would recommend getting a new one.

Inspect the frame closely. Look at the welds to be sure that they are not broken or cracked. Has the frame been modified, or repaired? This can be a tell-tale sign that the bike has been abused. Look for stickers on the frame that might be concealing damage, also check that the VIN number is stamped into the frame someplace and matches the VIN on the Title, overlooking this can cause you a heap of trouble. If the inspection looks good, there is only one thing left to do. If the owner is ok with it, and you have never ridden before, or don't have a license yourself, have your friend take the motorcycle for a test ride. A simple test ride can tell you how the bike runs, and any quirks that may arise, and also show you how the bike responds performance wise, and to rider input. HAPPY HUNTING!

I do not care how much everybody is complaining about Global Warming, cold is cold, and when you're riding through the winter, it feels that much colder. Wind chill can be horrible, add in the factor of speed where the quicker you go the more the temp drops. Using the following tips, you will be able to survive the winter on your motorcycle.

Some of you silly riders like cold weather, I will never understand that. Maybe it's because I'm a thin guy and I don't have much blubber to hold in the heat. I live down South for a reason, but even in the dirty dirty it gets cold from time to time. When the mercury drops and the wind starts blowing hard I'm grabbing every article of heavy clothing I can wear at once. If I look like the little brother from a Christmas Story when I'm done, so be it.

Hands, are the first line of defense, and Winter gloves are generally a good idea, something with Gore-Tex or Thinsulate is a bonus. Practically every major motorcycle apparel manufacturer sells a winter glove, and many can be found for less than $80 with varying degrees of protection and insulation from the elements. But aside from running out and purchasing a name brand glove, there are a few other steps you can try before you shell out a bunch of cash on specialty gloves.

Take a trip down to either the local grocer, hardware, or auto parts store and purchase a box of disposable rubber gloves. These are excellent for retaining your natural body heat. And because they are form fitting, you can wear them under your riding gloves as extra insulation. Some people may have an allergy to latex, in which case sporting goods stores and outdoor outlets sell glove liners made of a variety of materials.

Even if you have full gauntlet gloves, while in the riding position, and when you are moving around, your sleeves can slide up and let in the wind. Try a pair of wristbands, a great cheap tip for keeping the wind out of your sleeves.

Heavy shirts are a must, but too many of these at once cannot only be uncomfortable, but can restrict movement. Thermal shirts are definitely a plus, in addition to a sweater and lined jacket. You can also try one of those cool max shirts as a base to your layers. Anything that will wick away moisture from your body will keep you that much warmer. If your jacket lets some wind through in any spots try and pin point the problem areas from the inside. The fix for this is simple... duct tape. Patch up the holes on the inside so the air cannot make its way through. A light nylon windbreaker under your jacket or even your rain jacket over top can be a great help.

Your head and face are very sensitive. High quality full-face lids with close-able vents are clearly the way to go. If you're in an area that gets a good amount of snow and super low temperatures, you might want to look into snowmobile helmets for the winter. The ones that come with heated visors are a perfect choice. Of course, one of the easiest ways to help keep your head warm, is wearing a beanie under your helmet. If that is too thick for a comfy fit, try the sporting goods and ski shops for balaclava's. The ones that are made of nylon are generally really thin. There is always the classic bandanna too. This will at least keep most of the wind off your face, and your breath will help keep your face warm. Keep breath mints handy though.

Another cheap trick for limiting fog and trapping in heat. If your helmet does not have a breath deflector, you can build one out of duct tape. Double up the tape and form it to fit your face. Then, tape it right to the inside of the chin bar. Just be sure you do not leave any adhesive exposed, unless you want your face waxed while riding down the street.

Your feet and knees are always in the breeze. Ski socks are a definite plus. The longer they are, the better too. Insulated boots are really the only way to go, the less wind that can get in the better. A great piece of gear I found is motocross knee and shin guards, they are similar to hockey shin guards with plastic caps, foam padding and fabric liners. The cool thing about these, is that they are thin enough to wear under loose fitting pants. The plastic blocks the wind very well while the foam helps to trap in the heat. These are generally inexpensive too, they can be found for no more than $40. For the remained of your lower extremities, double up on pants. Sweat pants, Track pants, thermals, etc.

Of course there is always the option of heated riding gear. This can get expensive, but if you are going to ride in very cold climates, it's probably a smart investment. The cheaper solution is using hand warmer packs. They're fairly inexpensive and some last up to 8 hours. If you plan on doing some long-distance riding, I would recommend getting some. You can put them in your shoes to help keep your feet warm, in your gloves to help out your hands and any place else you feel could use a bit of warmth.