Dealing with Dog Aggression

Dealing with Dog Aggression

Dog aggression can manifest in behaviors such as growling, snapping, baring teeth, and biting. The underlying intent on the part of the dog expressing the aggressive behavior is to intimidate a person or another animal.

If you try to understand aggression from the dog's point of view, there is always a reason for the behavior. He generally feels threatened in some way. He might interpret a friendly gesture from a human as an intention to do harm. Or he might think another animal, or a human, is after his food. Overcoming aggressive behavior in dogs can be a complex issue, and it is often a job better left to a professional.

Territorial aggression, protective aggression, and possessive aggression are all closely related aggressive traits are based in a defense of a resource. Territorial aggression is about the dog protecting his "turf." This may or may not be confined to the yard. Even if the dog only leaves the yard on a leash, he may still consider his turf to be anything within the boundaries of his urine marks. Protective aggression is generally aggression intended for animals or people that the dog sees as a threat to his pack. It is important to note that a pet dog might consider his human family his pack. Possessively aggressive dogs do so out of defense of food, toys, or some object they have decided is "theirs."

Dominance aggression in dogs manifests in situations related to pecking order in the pack. Again, dogs perceive their human "family" as part of the pack, and they may actually see themselves as having a higher status in the group than the humans. When your dog has a certain perception and he feels you are encroaching on his status, he may challenge you. Maybe you want him to get off the furniture, and he simply doesn't want to. He may growl, snap, or even bite if you permit it. Hugging a dog or grabbing for it's collar may also be interpreted as challenges to status and could result in such behavior.

Redirected aggression is common in dogs, but often misunderstood by owners. This occurs when a dog is prompted to be aggressive towards another animal or a human that it is unable to attack, so he redirects his aggression at a different animal or human that he is able to attack. A common example of this is two dogs who share the same yard are provoked by a third dog on the other side of the fence. Because the two dogs in the yard are unable to attack the third dog, they may become excited and attack each other.

All of these types of aggressive behaviors can be modified, but due to the dangers of working with aggressive dogs, and the complexity of animal behavior in general, dog behavior modification should be left to the professionals.

Do not attempt to punish a dog that demonstrates aggressive tendencies. You could actually do more harm than good. It also may result in you being attacked by the dog.

You should first consult a veterinarian to determine if a medical problem is causing the aggressive behavior.

If the problem is not medical, you should then consult with an animal behavior specialist. This is best done at your home with the dog in its normal surroundings.

You are ultimately responsible for the behavior of your dog. Make sure people and other animals are safe around your dog, or you could find yourself paying a doctor bill, or even being sued in court.

Avoid situations where your dog is likely to express aggressive behavior. Confine him and keep him away from people if necessary.

If your dog is territorial or possessive, simply remove access to the area or item, and the problem is solved.

Spay or neuter your dog. Dogs with intact genitalia are more likely to display aggression.

There's more to housebreaking a dog then many pet owners are prepared for.

It requires commitment, discipline, patience and consistency.

By following the steps set forth below, you can minimize piddles on the carpet, but every puppy or newly housetrained adult dog will have an accident, and likely several.

The more consistent you are in these housebreaking procedures, the quicker the puppy will learn the desired behavior. Effectively housebreaking a puppy will usually take several weeks, and small breeds sometimes take longer.

Dogs will do better if you put them on a routine. Take your pet outside at least every two hours, immediately after waking from a nap, playing, eating or drinking.

Praise your puppy every time he does his business outside. Make a big deal of it. Praise him verbally, pet him, and even give him a treat.

But make sure you do it immediately after he finishes going. Don't wait until you get him back inside the house or he won't understand what you are praising him for.

Rewarding him is the only way he will understand what he's supposed to do, so this type of positive reinforcement is essential.

Pick a spot for your dog to go that is near the door you take him out through. Go to the same spot every time, and only reward him with a longer walk or a play session after he has gone to the bathroom.

If you have to clean up an accident in the house, take whatever you cleaned the mess up with and leave it on his bathroom spot. The smell will help him identify and understand that this spot is where he is supposed to go.

While the puppy is in the act of eliminating, use a phrase such as "go potty." Use the same phrase every time. This phrase when used later will help you and your pet communicate the need to go to the bathroom.

Generally, after the dog is trained, you will be able to say your phrase, and if he needs to go he will act excited and head for the door. If he doesn't need to go he might look at you like you're nuts.

Feed your dog at the same time each day. This will increase the likelihood that he'll need to go to the bathroom on a consistent schedule as well. It will make the housebreaking process quicker and easier for both you and your pet.

Keep an eye on your puppy whenever he's indoors and don't give him the opportunity to have an accident on the floor.

Watch for signals that he needs to go (sniffing or circling), and immediately take him out to his spot. Don't forget to praise him immediately when he goes.

When you're unable to watch your puppy he should be confined to a very small area that he won't want to pee in.

An area that is only big enough for him to stand, lie down, and turn around in will discourage him from going to the bathroom there.

If the puppy has been confined for several hours you will need to take him immediately to his bathroom spot when letting him out. Don't forget to praise him when he goes.

Expect your puppy to have accidents when housebreaking. It's going to happen.

When you catch your pet in the act of going to the bathroom in the house, do something to interrupt him.

Making a startling noise will work, but make sure not to scare him. After interrupting him, take him immediately out to his spot and praise him when he finishes outside.

Never punish your puppy for having an accident in the house. If you find a spot where he went, it's too late to do anything about it other than just to clean it up.

Don't rub his nose in it, scold him, or try to punish him in some other way. Punishment will almost always be more harmful than helpful.

Make sure you clean and deodorize the scene of an accident thoroughly. An area that smells like urine or feces will encourage him to do it on that spot again.

Consistency in these methods is the key to successfully housebreaking a puppy.

It is your responsibility to effectively train the dog, not the dog's responsibility to figure out how you want him to behave.

The more quickly and efficiently you accomplish the goal, the happier you both will be.