Whitetail or Mule - A Hunters Guide to Deer Hunting

The cousins White-Tailed Deer, or otherwise known as the Virginia Deer, and the Muley, or Mule Deer, are two of the well known species the lives in the American plains. Though somewhat similar in physical attributes for those who aren't acquainted with the species, there are some minute differences that allow you to separate the two.

During the hunting season, it is beneficial for the hunter to know the physical differences between the two cousins. Aside from separating the Muley and the White-Tail deer, they can also proceed to the location of each since both of them have different habitats.

The physical difference says it all

One notable difference between the White-tails and the muleys are the color of their tails and their antlers; the tail of the Mule Deer is black-tipped unlike its white-tipped cousin (hence the name White-Tail).

The antler of the White-Tailed deer has two probable formations: the first one is the typical antlers where the points group straight up from the main beam and are symmetrical on both sides. The non-typical antlers are asymmetrical and the points branch off in different directions off from the main beam. The Mule Deer's antlers tend to fork rather than branching off from a single beam. Both species shed their antlers during winter, between the months December and February.

One noticeable difference of the two cousins are their coats during the summer and spring seasons. The Muley's coat has a light orange-brown color unlike the White-Tails reddish brown. Upon the onset of fall and winter, the coat of the white-tail turns to a grayish-brown and the Muley's changes into a darker version of their white-tailed cousins.

The Muleys are considerably larger their cousin. Wherein the bucks of the Mule deer weighs roughly 150 to 300 pounds and its white-tailed cousins which weighs around 130 to 220 pounds. Considering their weight difference, size is also a major factor in determining the muley from the white-tailed.

Know where the deer lives

As with their physical description, so does their habitat differs. The White-Tailed deer are often found in the east of the American cordillera. It is known to settle and survive in aspen parklands and Bottomland Rivers in the Central and Northern Great Plains. The Mule Deer on the other hand settled in the land west of the Missouri river.

Considering their location, each species has their own specific diet which differs with the other species. The Muley's diet includes berries such as blackberry, sala, huckleberry and thimbleberry. They are also well known forages especially on conifers such as cedar, yews, Douglas fir, aspen, dogwood, willow, sage and juniper.

The diet of their white-tailed cousins focuses more on legumes and other plants which includes leaves, grasses and shoots. They are also commonly seen taking in acorns, a wide variety of corns, and apples. One special quality of the White-tailed deer is its special stomach which allows it to take in poisonous mushrooms that are considered lethal to humans.

Difference in behavior

When seeing a Muley in flight, you will notice that they often move slotting rather than alternate movements on all 4 legs. Slotting is a bounding leap with all four feet coming together at once. The white-tailed deer are often seen running on all fours.

The does of the White-tailed deer are more cautious compared to the muleys. When threatened, the white-tipped tails of the does are often seen raising during escape.

Knowing the difference between the White-Tailed deer and their cousins the Mule Deer is a must for hunters who consider these two wild game during the hunting season.

When going deer hunting, it's best to be equipped with a weapon that suits your taste. Considering that the weapon is an extension of your arm, you have to make sure that the weapon you are carrying is the most comfortable for you. Choosing a weapon because someone told you to won't necessarily lead you down the road of success.

In deer hunting, there is no such thing as a perfect weapon. Each has its own specific strengths and weaknesses, and the hunter who knows these will definitely bring down the first deer he comes across.

The Long-Range Rifle

The prominent weapon of choice for every deer hunter in the wild is the ever-famous rifle. Considering its range and firepower, this is by far the most effective weapon in bringing down the strongest of bucks. This is also an ideal weapon for beginners who are on their first try at deer hunting.

The most common distinguishing feature of the rifle is its long barrel which is attributed to its range. But considering its firepower, it also has a lot of weaknesses that any novice hunter should know about.

One such weakness is its noise level. When using the rifle, it is customary to bring down the buck on the first try; if you miss, the buck will be alerted to the sound emitted by the rifle and you might not get a second chance at it this is the second weakness; reloading. The rifle only allows one bullet at a time, so after the first shot, its takes a lot of time to reload. With these two weaknesses to offset the power and range of the rifle, you have to make sure that the first shot counts.

The Shotgun

A 12-gauge shotgun has no qualms when it comes to reloading since it can hold a total of four rounds before reloading. Its has a lot of firepower but lacks the range to back it up, so you need to get close to your target to make sure that you don't miss. It is also in the same category as the rifle when it comes to the noise level, so you better make sure that the first shot counts, or else you are going to play a game of tag with the buck when you miss.

Do it the old fashion way by using the Bow

This compound bow is definitely not for beginners, and is considered the most difficult weapon to kill a deer. The range and power of the bow is limited and you might need to utilize your surroundings if this is your weapon of choice.

The power of the bow differs with the accuracy of the hunter. Aside from the fact that you have to be quite near to your prey to make sure that you have enough force to embed the arrow in, you have to make sure that you hit the buck at the most critical spot, like the neck, to bring it down.

See the upcoming chapter dedicated to bow hunting.

The range is also limited and most professional hunters resort to climbing trees to get a better shot of the prey. Using a deer call or a rattle to lure out the buck from hiding is practically the best maneuver when using a bow. But you need not worry if you miss the first try since the bow hardly makes a sound when fired, so you are free to take another shot when the buck is rooted on the same spot.

A wise hunter was asked by a novice regarding his weapon of choice for a successful deer hunt. The hunter simply shrugged and said: son, there is no weapon that comes to mind that can hit a buck without a steady hand and a rightful aim from a skilled hunter.

Using a bow when deer hunting has long been practiced by our early ancestors since the beginning of time; lacking the technology that graces us today, our ancestors had to utilize skill, terrain and luck to bring down their prey.

Today, hunting enthusiast have revived the ancient practice of bow hunting as opposed to rifles and shotguns. Though it might take a while to get used to it, this is definitely challenging and fun.

Knowing your equipment

Before going deer hunting, it is imperative that you are familiar with various equipment used in bow hunting. Unlike using shotguns and rifles which utilize power and range, bow hunting utilizes terrain, accuracy and skill of the hunter to adapt to his surroundings. And the proper tools of the trade will definitely bring out the hunter in you.

There are 3 bows that a hunter can utilize when bow hunting: stick bows, re-curves and the compound bow. The stick bows and re-curves were used by ancient bow hunters and are made of wood yet they differ in design.

Compound bows are the new development in bow hunting. This type of bow utilizes cams and pulleys to draw the limbs back. The stiffness of the limbs gives the compound bow its power, much more significant than the old-fashioned stick and re-curve bows. Also, weight is a crucial factor in handling a bow, since your power and accuracy depends on how you keep the bow steady before firing.

Arrows are also important for successful hunting. Arrows also come in 3 types: cedar, carbon and aluminum shafts. Cedar shafts are best used with the old-fashioned bows like the stick bow and re-curves; while carbon and aluminum arrows are for the more powerful compound bows.

Bring down the prey

Different prey requires different arrows, especially when you are using a compound bow. When going out for a moose or an elk, then the heavy aluminum arrow would be perfect since the weight will give the arrow its extra power. For lighter prey like deer, a lighter shaft like the carbon arrow would be perfect since you will need the extra range that is more common for lightweight shafts.

Also take note that the carbon and aluminum arrows not only vary in weight and power, but also in price. Carbon arrows are lighter and much sturdier, that's why they're more expensive than the heavy aluminum shafts.

The perfect hunter

When utilizing a bow in hunting deer, it is best to utilize the terrain rather than brute force. Since you are at a slight disadvantage when it comes to power, you have to use strategy in bringing down the buck.

One method used by bow hunters is shooting on top of a tree. This will give you the additional power and the range that your bow lacks. You can lure the buck out with a deer call or a rattle and wait for them to come into range.

Once you see movement and the buck is coming your way, you have to cock your arrow and pull back on the drawstrings and wait for it to come into your line of sight. This is necessary since you want to be ready when the buck comes into range, and getting the right tension on your bow will definitely take some time.

Waiting for the right moment might take a while to get used to since the compound bow is heavy, plus the force that is applied while pulling back will definitely wear you out fast. If you miss the first shot, the buck may not bolt since the bow hardly makes a sound once shot, so you can cock another arrow and take a second shot if the buck is still in firing range.

Bow hunting is definitely a challenge, but the skill and experience that you get out of it is something that you should be proud of.

Before going off into the great outdoors for a bout of deer hunting, you should carefully consider your gear. Whatever you've packed in your bag could prove essential to your survival, and success, of your deer hunting sojourn.

Pack the right clothes

The clothes that you should bring along with should serve 3 purposes:

1. comfort
2. camouflage
3. protection

These factors will guarantee a successful deer hunt, as well as your survival in the wild.

Basic gear for a deer hunter is an all-weather jacket that protects you from the weather. It should be made from a thick and durable material that can withstand the harshest of environments.

Whether it be summer or winter, your clothing should reflect the surrounding terrain since the less probability that the deer spots you increases your chance in landing the perfect shot. Various camouflaged jackets are designed to withstand the heat of summer and the freezing temperatures of winter, as well as the perfect coloring to blend in with the surroundings.

You also need to make sure that your jacket contains enough pockets for various objects like ammunition, compass, scent wash, deer calls and rattles, since all of these are essential to deer hunting.

Have boots will hunt

Your traditional sneakers and rubber shoes won't provide the protection and durability to survive in the wild. Most seasoned hunters prefer to use rubber boots since they provide protection for wet terrains and enough durability to survive the rugged paths.

It is also advisable that you bring an extra pair of shoes or boots when in the outdoors. As most experienced deer hunters would quote, it is always a standing rule to be prepared for the unexpected. Extra footwear not only gives you a perfect spare if the first set gets wet or damaged, but also a nice change when the insides start to smell.

The Dream Season Boots from Robinson Outdoors is perfect for a deer hunting expedition. Aside from the feature that purges odor during trekking, they have built-in shin guards which provide maximum support and protection. They also have a specially designed Climb Right Angle heel for superior traction when climbing trees for strategic hunting. The durable construction, lightweight material and the reinforced toe make these the perfect footwear for deer hunting.

Don't let the deer smell your odor

Bucks are flighty creatures at best and have a very sensitive sense of smell. Since its part of their defense mechanism for predators, this includes you; they can smell you for quite a distance giving them enough time to get out of range. The Dream Season Base Layer is a perfect undergarment to get rid of those smells caused by microorganisms in your body. The undergarment features antimicrobials that kill bacteria upon contact thus eliminating the smell.

Be protected from the weather

When in the wild, weather is the most unpredictable force. A slight change in the weather can turn a sunny warm atmosphere into a cold wet afternoon. Packing extra clothing for any weather is your best bet in surviving the outdoor weather.

When hunting in the wintertime, staying warm is a necessity especially when you lie and wait for your prey. Cabela's Outfitter Fleece Windshear Pullover is the perfect outer garment if you need to stay warm. The windshear features protect you from the cold winds. The hood and the perspiration vapor escape is perfect in trapping the heat inside and letting the frigid air out!

Bringing the right clothes and gear before deer hunting not only gives you the edge you need for a successful hunt, but also the comfort and protection that only these items can provide.

For a successful hunt, it is required that you purchase a hunting license from a government office before proceeding with this venture. Since poaching is punishable by law in the US, the government is keen on maintaining order and detaining those who break it.

Before going on a hunt, a hunter must be well versed of the law regarding hunting; this includes the use of stamps, bag limits, types of license issued, etc. Since there are different licenses for different species, season or weapon used, knowing all the licenses available is a very big help in planning your hunting activities.

Preys of the hunt

Considering the number of species that can be hunted in any season, the most common includes the White-Tailed deer, Mule deer, Black bear, Wild Turkey, Waterfowl (includes ducks and geese), small game (cottontail, snowshoe, quail, squirrel, fox, and coyote), pheasants and Moose. Each has their own specific criteria when hunting them is legal; you should also note that there are different seasons for allowed weapons to be used as well.

Resident License

Aside from paying the necessary fees for the licenses, tags and stamps; a hunter needs to attend seminars regarding the rules and regulations for hunting, as well as various other like wildlife protection, nature preservation and survival.

There are two kind of licenses that can be issued to hunters: the Resident Hunting License and the Nonresident Hunting License.

Resident Hunting License allows a hunter to hunt or trap any legal game mammals and birds in season without the need for an additional stamp except deer hunting during bow season, deer hunting during muzzleloader season, and migratory game birds.

For a Resident Hunting License, the price of each license differs according to age category: Juniors who are anyone under the age of 16, Regulars anyone above 16 and below 65, and Seniors which can only be purchases in the month the person turns 65.

Nonresident License

Nonresident Hunting Licenses have two types: Full Season and 3-Day Waterfowl and Small Game licenses. The Full Season hunting license allows non-residents of a certain state to hunt all legal game in season except deer during bow season, deer during muzzleloader season, and migratory game birds.

Some hunting rules

In order to control the population of the various species that are considered prey in hunting, the government has issued the concept of tags and stamps to hunters.

Tags are often used when hunting big game (deer, elk, moose, reindeer, bear, etc.) and predators such as cougars and coyotes. A tag is required for each animal harvested and must be purchased along with the license applied. If there are more than enough hunters who are registered for a specific season, then the tags are assigned by lottery instead of being bought individually. Waterfowl hunters are issued stamps instead of tags, though both have the same concept.

Different seasons, different rules

When hunting in the US, you should take note of the different hunting seasons offered by the law.

Closed season are designed to protect animals when they are most vulnerable, this includes the breeding season. Hunting during closed seasons is punishable by law and subject to fines and penalties.

The open season has different categories to give hunters time for their own specific specialties. When it comes to the use of weapons, there is the bow season, where only bows can be used to hunt deer, elk and game birds, muzzleloaders season and rifle/shotgun season.

Each prey has their own specific season where hunting them is permitted. Deer hunting for muzzleloaders starts on November 3 to 13, while deer hunting for firearms starts on November 14 to December 9. Using bows for deer hunting starts on September 15 to December 15.

A knowledgeable hunter should know all there is to know about licenses, tags, stamps, seasons and regulations. Hunting the legal way in the US is considered as the best way.

It is normal for the hunter to set up a camping site during the hunting season. The camp site is a place where you can relax, enjoy nature, and get a full nights rest before going out hunting again in the morning. Considering this will be your base of operation during the hunting season, you have to make sure that you have everything that you need all ready in your campsite for easy access.

Making a list and checking it twice

The first step in planning for a campsite is to make a checklist on what you need to bring along with you. Necessities will include the basics: eating, sleeping, and recreation. Once you have these three firmly in you head, you can easily map out what to bring.

For sleeping quarters, you should consider the weather. Most deer hunters brag about staying in the woods and living the old-fashion way, but considering the conveniences that can be yours if you can afford it, well, why suffer? A sleeping bag is great to ward off the chill, and a tent is quite handy to keep the weather off your back.

Some hunters bring a second tent that will serve as their eating area and recreation center. If you are out hunting with a group instead of being alone, then a secondary tent will be needed. The second tent has to be large and spacious since this will serve as your meeting and dining room.

Other basic necessities will include flashlight, batteries, cooking utensils, a utility knife (very important) and extra clothing.

Setting up camp!

You need to set up camp in an even terrain, choose a soft patch of land where you are immune to possible flooding, or offending rocks underneath. You have to make sure that your campsite is a place of comfort. It's always best to set up camp where the weather won't get to you.

You need to organize your camp depending on certain activities. Sleeping should be on one end of the camp, eating and cooking on the other. You don't want these two activities together or you might end up with some foraging visitors while you sleep.

If you intend to cook by fire instead of a cooking stove, then you better set it up carefully to avoid accidental flare-ups. It is best to surround your campfire with rocks, and remove any flammable material around it. Also, make sure that your tent is a ways from your campfire since embers might end up burning down your sleeping area.

Block and tackle, a deer hunters closet

Practically a deer hunters best friend, a block and tackle is a necessary tool when camping out. A block and tackle is composed of a system of two or more pulleys attached to a rope or cable. This is used to pull up heavy loads with minimal force.

A block and tackle is especially useful to hang hunting trophies like deer, waterfowl and other prey. This is also a convenient tool for skinning and dressing the deer out in the wild; since the buck is suspended in mid-air, you can easily move the deer in any position you desire.

The contraption also provides a means of protection from scavengers who roam the forest at night; making sure that your catch will remain untouched during the night or while you're out on another hunting expedition.

More on this in the chapter on field dressing.

Foresight is necessary when planning to camp in the great outdoors. Aside from planning for the weather, you need to make sure that you have everything you need to avoid regrets later on.

A deer stand is definitely helpful when going deer hunting. Not only does it increase your viewing range, it will also eliminate your presence from any wary buck that comes across your location. Making a stand for deer hunting is easy, and most of the materials you need can be bought at any local hardware shop.

Advantages of having a deer stand

Basically a deer stand is all advantage to a deer hunter. Since the deer's nose is quite sensitive to scent, a deer stand reduces your smell from the deer's range. Since your presence is nowhere near the area, the buck can come and go without any sign of alarm.

Another advantage is the visibility of the surrounding area when you go hunting. Since you are perched comfortably up a tree, you can spot a buck from miles away. Just make sure that you have a steady aim and a long range rifle to bring your target down.

Tips in making a deer stand

When planning to make a deer stand, it's always best to check state and locals laws regarding construction on public lands. If you are planning to hunt in a private territory, you better consult the owner of your plan to build a deer stand or you will end up facing a trespassing lawsuit.

Next step is to determine the location of the most amount of deer activity in the area. If you plan to make a deer stand, you better make sure that your targets are within the vicinity.

There are two ways to create a deer stand:

1. you can either put up your tree stand high up a tree, or
2. an elevated platform from scratch.

The best suggestion is putting up your deer stand in a tree since this is less expensive of the two.

Your deer stand should be made of wood since it will blend in with the surroundings perfectly. If you plan on purchasing a deer stand made of metal, you better make sure that you paint it the same color as your surroundings. Since metals tend to glare, it might alert your prey faster than you can take aim and shoot.

When proposing to paint your deer stand for camouflaging purposes, it's better to do it a month or two before the actual hunting season starts. This will eliminate the smell of the paint so as not to alert the buck of your presence.

Noise is your worst enemy when deer hunting. Since you are wearing boots and you have wooden floors in your deer stand, you are definitely going to make a lot of noise while in it. You might take some precautions and pad down your deer stand floor with a thick sackcloth or even a carpet if you can afford it.

One thing that we should remember is that we have nature calls. Urinating is a major problem faced by hunters when perched on their deer stands. You can always urinate out your deer stand but you might alert the buck of your scent; urinating IN your deer stand could definitely ruin your scent, so handle the situation as you see fit.

And finally, how are you going to access your deer stand. If you are an avid climber, you need not put steps or ladders to serve as access to your deer stand. Since deer stands are usually on top of trees, ladders are perfect if you plan to get to your perch quickly!

Taking all these tips into consideration will lead to a well-planned well-though out deer stand that will last from season to season.

Before engaging in the satisfying art of deer hunting, every hunter must first purchase a license for their trade. This license will be specific as to the season as well as the location in which they are to hunt. But not all the time nature cooperates with these hardy pioneers.

Go where the prey goes

Finding the perfect location for deer hunting can be a very tedious process. Since the herd is always on the move depending on weather patterns and food sources, determining their exact location can be a chore.

Before purchasing a license, the hunter must take care to ask around for vital information regarding the location of the herd. This should be done at least 3 to 4 weeks before the hunting season begins.

Food source: knowing what the herd eats is a fair indication of their possible location in the wild. Since most herds move according to the availability of their food source, they will continuously be on the move due to their stomachs. Knowing the location of these food sources can be a great help in determining the location of your prey.

Habitat: A deer has its own preference when it comes to sleeping areas and habitats. Mostly the herd is known to sleep in areas where there is plenty of vegetation, like thick bushes or trees.

Knowing all these possible locations might not only lead to a successful hunt, but a deeper understanding of their behavior.

Tracking down the prey

If you have discerned the location of the herd and applied for a license in their location, you notice that the herds are nowhere in sight. You might need to track them down before you can bag them.

Basically, you need to know the difference of the buck and doe before you can successfully track down your prey. One difference is the trail the two animals leave. Bucks tend to have a wider trail than that of the doe. The doe pick up their feet rather than dragging them like the bucks do, so you can easily distinguish the two with the tracks they leave behind.

One possible tracking technique is the urine that they leave behind. This is very noticeable during winter months when the snow is thick. Bucks tend to urinate while walking, unlike the doe that squats before releasing her load. If you see 3 to 4 feet of a urine trail in front of you, then you are definitely tracking a buck.

Another factor when tracking down a buck or a doe is their preferred location. Since the doe are more docile compared to the wild buck, they tend to stick to less-dense areas unlike the wild buck who tend to roam in a larger area.

The perfect license for a perfect hunt

Now that you have a nodding acquaintance of the habits of your prey, you can determine their location in the wild. Since you can go to any state to apply for a license, you have a free run on your prey if you feel like tracking them down.

You also need to check local rules and regulations regarding nonresident hunters who apply for a hunting license. You have to have a nodding acquaintance on how they do it there so that you won't have any penalties or additional fees later on.

Aside from the location, you can also take advantage of other possible prey aside from deer. You may find out in the local office that waterfowl or small game are in season, so you can always take advantage of those for practice before you tackle on the big ones.

Utilizing various techniques in the fine art of deer hunting could boost your success. Knowing your equipment, being aware of weather patterns, and knowing the habits of your prey can also help.

Tracking

One of the advanced skills for seasoned hunters is tracking. Since the herd is always on the move, the hunter has to utilize various techniques to catch his prey. Knowing the prey will help for successful tracking.

One such way to track is to observe carefully the trails that the prey leaves behind. Distinguishing the difference between a buck and doe will give you the foresight on where your target will go. Bucks tends to have a wider trail compared to the doe and can be easily distinguished especially during winter months when the snow is thick.

Urine is also a basic factor in determining whether your prey is a buck or a doe. A buck will urinate while walking which will definitely leave a trail. The female deer is more sedate and will stop and squat before releasing her load. So make sure you keep an eye out for these stinky trails.

Knowing the various diets of your prey can also help you determine their location. Going to hunt in areas with their favorite food source will definitely land you in buck heaven! But remember that bucks move at a very indefinite rate, so you better watch out for their trails when they do so.

Scents

Scents are very important when going deer hunting. Since the herd has a keen sense of smell, they can easily detect those not of their own. This is a disadvantage for the hunter since our smell can be very distinctive to the prey, especially when we start to sweat under the heat of the scorching sun.

One method in getting over this obstacle is to use the direction of the wind at your disposal. When trailing a buck, you need to make sure that you are on the downwind side of your intended target, since the direction of the wind will make sure that the buck doesn't smell you.

Another method in hiding your smell is by using various detergents that eliminate your body odor. There is a skin tight undergarment sold in various hunting stores that eliminates bacteria that causes odor upon contact. You can also wear outfits that keep your smell inside rather than out. There are also sprays available that will help remove your smell from your clothes.

Scent of the prey can also be an advantage as well. If you have a sensitive nose and can distinguish the smell of a buck or a doe, then you can easily determine where its coming from by knowing the direction of the wind.

Deer calls and rattles

If you are using a deer stand and prefer to wait for your prey to come in range, then utilizing deer calls and rattles will suit you best. When you are using a short range weapon or a compound bow, you need to make sure that the deer is within close range for maximum power.

A deer call and rattle will mimic the sound made by bucks and does, so when the buck hears it, they try to look for the source of the sound. They will be quite cautious so you have to make sure that you are perfectly hidden so they won't spot you.

These techniques are here to help you out in your deer hunting; so using these is not a sign of weakness but a sign of a true hunter.

It is very fulfilling on your part once you've successfully shot a deer. It is important that you know how to properly field dress your deer so that you can keep and use them according to your needs.

Once you have shot your deer, try approaching it from the rear, making sure that it's dead. Attach your tag to the carcass once it is validated.

The following field dressing procedure has been tried and tested by experienced deer hunters, although some vary in one or more steps. Below are the basic steps but still, hunters are free to innovate something that would suit their situation.

Start cutting between the hind legs all the way to the pelvic bone. Turn your knife blade upwards to cut through the breastbone towards the top of the neck. Make sure you are using a strong, large-handled knife so you can obtain the best cut.

Start cutting the windpipe in two. The farther it goes up to the neck, the better. Lay your knife down. Next, grasp the windpipe of the deer, using both your hands, and pull it hard downwards. The insides, by this time, should come out all the way to the midsection parts. Remove the rocks from under the deer and roll the carcass on its side. The meat holding the entrails of the ribs must be cut into thin layers, all the way to the backbone. Turn the deer over and do the same thing on its other side.

Lay your knife down and using both your hands, get a firm grip on the deer's entrails and then pull down as hard as you can. All the entrails of the deer should come out after you do this.

Through its hind legs, lift the deer up before laying a large rock under the rump. This will efficiently spread the back legs of the deer, open. Place your knife in the middle part of the pelvis. This will help locate the seam where the deer's bones grow together.

If you are using a stout knife, twist the blade from side to side so that the blade can work though the sea. Press this area very hard. Hit the back of your knife blade if necessary to cut through the bone. Additionally, for larger deer, you can use a saw or a hatchet. Once you are done, make sure to finish cleaning out the deer.

Subsequently, if you are near a tree and you have a rope with you, try hanging the carcass up by its head or its antlers for about twenty minutes. By doing so, the loose blood can easily drain away from the body cavity. But if no tree is available, turn the deer upside down in a clean place then leave it there to drain.

Take your deer back to your camp. Take note though that by dragging it, it is possible to get it quite dirty. It is best to have the deer halved or even quartered so that you can easily transport them. But be sure to attach the tag to the biggest portion of the carcass so that you can easily locate them.

Begin skinning once you are in your camp. You can either handle it by its hind legs or its head for skinning. Remember that the skin will easily come off if the deer is still warm, which explains why you should be skinning it within two hours. In removing the skin, cut the inside of both legs to the middle part of the animal. Make sure that you only cut the skin. If you prefer hanging the deer by its head, cut the skin around the neck, closest to the head if possible.

After you have successfully skinned the deer, hang it up by its legs for about four hours so that tiny blood vessels will drain. The carcass should be kept in a cool place if possible. Let the carcass cool overnight so that the meat doesn't spoil.

Once everything has been done, cut the meat of the deer in your desired size. Be sure to keep the meat refrigerated after slicing. It is advisable to have the fat of the meat properly trimmed so as to avoid affecting the flavor of the meat. Wrap the cut meat properly before freezing.

It is essential to be aware of the basic skills in field dressing a deer. Take time to read and learn more about them before you indulge in any deer hunting activities.

Venison isn't equal. At one point they can be consistently perfect for table fare. But with poor preparation and handling, eating venison could turn out to be a nightmare. A lot of people who refrain from eating venison have had very bad experiences with the improper way the meat was handled or prepared.

Additionally, a lot of factors might affect the quality of the meat, such as the deer species, the age, the stress of the deer prior to harvest, field dressing, cold storage contamination, aging of the carcass, contamination of meat, excessive moisture during storage, packaging, and butchering.

The best quality venison are mostly provided by a clean, quick kill of an unperturbed deer. The quality of the meat is decreased if the deer is stressed out from running extensively right after death.

Newly-killed deer should be field-dressed right after it dies but it can be postponed for a few couple of hours during mild weather and much longer during cold weather.

The bullet or the arrow, and the field dressing, also called evisceration is adequate enough to bleed a deer. This won't require you then to cut the throat of a dead deer.

Additionally, contrary to what most people believed, it is no longer important to remove the metatarsal glands of the deer since they don't really affect the quality of the meat after death. But keep in mind to prevent the glands from rubbing onto the meat. Also, avoid handling the glands to and from the meat without washing your hands very well.

After Butchering

After butchering and field dressing the deer, the quartered meat or the carcass should be cooled before stored at a room running from thirty-four to thirty-eight degrees Fahrenheit. After death, skin the carcass immediately but with proper storage and cooling method, you can postpone the process for a few more days. You can achieve a more tender meat when it is aged for at least a week at about 34-38 degrees Fahrenheit. Just make sure though that the meat is exposed in proper and good quality air circulation.

The air circulation around the exposed meat generally causes the meats surface to dry. Always see to it that you trim off those excess surfaces during butchering. To achieve more tenderness, continue processing the meat for another sixteen to twenty one days.

However, remember to avoid freezing the meet throughout the whole aging process since it can inhibit aging while increasing the probability of spoiling right after thawing. But then, if you wish to freeze the meet during the aging process, you can still do so. Just make sure that the meat remains clean and dry throughout the field dressing, the aging, and the cold storage processes.

Additionally, excessive moisture and soiling also increases the risk of spoilage of the meat.

After the Aging Process

After the aging process, the cartilage, fat, bruised meat, as well as the dried outer meat and the non-muscle materials should be removed from the muscles. Use a sharp filet or a boning knife. Be sure to work on a clean and cool cutting surface. Fat is basically the main cause of off-flavor in venison.

Since different chemicals are stored in fat, venison fat normally leaves a less-palatable residue or aftertaste in the mouth, unlike chicken, pork, or beef fat. The toughness of the meat, furthermore, is due to the cartilage like the tendons, the ligaments, and the fascia.

Preparing for Venison Recipes

For venison recipes, it is advised to separate the muscle and the cut slices across the grain of the muscle. The best parts of the venison for roasting, grilling, or for frying include the muscles from the tenderloin, hindquarters, and the back straps. They also are great for sausages, smoked meat, stews, and hamburgers.

When frying, roasting, grilling, microwaving, or smoking venison, avoid overcooking or undercooking. Undercooked venison has proven to provide health risks, while the overcooked ones become tough and stiff.

Freeze your venison right after butchering them, unless you will cook them fresh. Remember to place meal-sized quantities of the meat upon placing them into plastic bags. Remove the air of the bags before sealing them tightly.

If meat is stored for a longer period of days, wrap the plastic bags in freezer paper before sealing with a tape. Doing so can maintain a good quality venison that can last for years. Likewise, placing meat in vacuum-sealed bags is also very efficient.

Always remember that the key to having good quality venison starts from the butchering down to the right processing methods.

Taxidermy, a Greek term that means arranging of the skin, describes the methods of reproducing life-like, three-dimensional representations of an animal intended for permanent display or for study. It can be done on almost all types of animals. In some cases, parts of the actual skin of an animal such as the fur, the feather, and the scales are preserved and mounted over an artificial framework. But in most cases, specimens are completely reproduced using man-made materials.

What is Crypto-taxidermy?

Crypto-taxidermy is the art of creating stuffed animals that have no real and live counterparts. They can have mythical counterparts, or be based on the taxidermists imagination. They can also be created out of supposed parts of mythical animals like chimeras, Capricorns, giraffe, or unicorns, or most of the time, they may be artificially created.

What is Anthropomorphic Taxidermy?

This is the art of making stuffed animals dressed as people, or sometimes displayed as if they were engaged in some human activities. This style was very popular during the Edwardian and Victorian times although there are still some that can be found these days.

This style of taxidermy was founded and popularized by Herman Ploucquet, a taxidermist from the Royal Museum in Stuttgart in Wurttemberg, Germany after he presented at the 1851's Great Exhibition. The art was later followed by an English taxidermist, Walter Potter. One of his very famous works was The Upper Ten or Squirrels Club which featured eighteen European squirrels socializing in a club.

Three Types of Taxidermy

There are basically three major types of taxidermy European Mounts, Bear Skinning, and Capping Lines. Since most people prefer the simple head mounts, the European Mounts is the most common type used today.

European Skull Mounts

There are different ways to bleach a skull for mounting. But below is the easiest and the fastest method to bleach and preserve your most valuable skulls.

The first thing to do is to prepare the skulls. Start removing the hair and the hide from the skull. Before boiling the skull, see to it that you have removed all its spinal extras and the lower jaw.

Find a pot or a metallic container large enough to accommodate and completely submerge the skull. Boiling the skull normally results in water boiling past the brim, thus resulting in the smell of deer brain. To avoid this, boil the skull outdoors using propane or a campfire.

If the skull has antlers, keep them away from the water as much as possible since water can unnaturally lighten the antlers. Keep a close eye on the smoke especially if you are using an open flame. The smoke can stain the tips of the antlers that protrude from the pot. However, if you can't deal with the antlers properly, wrapping them in aluminum foil will work well.

To speed up the long process of removing meat, mix dawn dish soap or borax in the water. Remove the skull from the water every twenty minutes so you can scrape meat from the skull. This long and tedious process normally takes about four hours. Be sure to clean and remove even the littlest of meat so that the skull won't smell.

After all the organic material has been removed, be sure to find the teeth. Some teeth loosen and fall out while the skull is being boiled. It is important that you screen the water after boiling the skull so that you can find the missing teeth. Reattach them to the skull using epoxy or glue.

After reattaching the teeth, you can start the bleaching process. Don't use actual bleach but rather peroxide. Commercially-distributed bleaches can weaken the skull. Purchase peroxide from a beauty supply store since you can obtain up to thirty percent of concentrate without having the proper license. Paint the skull with peroxide and let it sit overnight.

Although there is no need to repeat the process, you can still do so especially if you prefer an extra white skull. Rinse the skull with cool water. Seal your skull using a clear gloss acrylic paint, although this is optional.

Taxidermy is one good way to preserve your most prized deer skulls. Find the right taxidermists near you and let them do the preserving of the skull, especially if you are hesitant to do it by yourself.

Rather than preserving only the skull, some prefer to preserve the entire head and antlers. In this case it is highly recommended you use the services of a professional taxidermist.

Since this is a very specialized process the chances are very good that you can find someone by word of mouth. Good news (and bad) tends to circulate in any group of special interests. Once you have a recommendation, take it one step further and check their history with the Better Business Bureau.

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