Conquering The Himalayas On Bike

It was the most incredible journey I had ever made so far. But for all the amazing landscapes we explored lies challenges that we had to overcome first. Making it a literally breathtaking rollercoaster ride.

For first timers like us, I would like to share what I learned from the trip and give you a (hopefully)helpful tips and informations on accommodations, meal stops, distances and insights on how to deal with the challenges that you will encounter on the road.

Time will never be enough to capture the essence and beauty of this place. One can go on clicking photos forever! Carry a good camera if you want to capture as much details as possible and a large memory card for unlimited storage!

Most riders treat their bikes like a wife or even better. Now I can understand the fascination. I have come to love this bike also! It stood strong amidst freezing snow, extreme heat, rapid flowing waters and the worst possible road condition. Despite it all we returned home without even a single scratch.

Planning the trip well is a must. Research is essentially for mental preparedness. I guarantee you that you will encounter a lot of challenges on the way and getting an idea of what it's like would help a lot. I am not an expert adventurer or rider. Most of what I know I learned from experience,from my husband Sandeep and his friend Nadeem's knowledge of long distance riding. So make sure to browse a little online for images and accounts of people who went on the same trip. Because of the landscape, no experiences will be the same so be prepared for everything. There are also books that give detailed information on the trip, maps and accomodation choices. Make sure to carry a detailed map of Himachal Pradesh.

Before starting out make a trip to your mechanic for a complete bike check up. It's essential for your safety that your bike is in good and proper condition as your bike will suffer a lot of riding in a very bad water filled roads. Carry a spare tube and a a foot pump.

We made the trip to Ladakh on the last week of May and most of the snow had not yet melted.The temperature was about negative 2 to 0C minimum so make sure to carry warm clothing. It can be very cold on the passes. Also water-proof tracksuits are helpful as the trip is a guaranteed water filled adventure. If you go at this time, most of the roads are undergoing reconstruction so expect puddles, overflowing streams, water falling on the side of the mountain and trickling along the road. Every year the roads have to be reconstructed as the large volume of water coming down from the passes keeps deteriorating it. You have to cross ditches that are very deep and there will be times that you will fall in the water. To avoid drenching your clothes and things inside the bags wrapped everything in plastic bags.

Carry a first aid kit composed of band aid, medicine for upset stomach, headache and dizziness etc. As you go up the Himalayas you might experience mountain sickness as the result of decreased oxygen so proper acclimatisation is required. Drinking 4 to 5 liters of water is recommended. Water is a good source of oxygen. Instead of a regular mineral water container you can carry water in a narrow neck bottle so it can fit snugly in the pocket of your saddlebags.You can refill water in the Himalayas.Water is potable over there.

Leaving Delhi early will save you a lot of travelling time, avoiding major traffic jams on your way out of the city. At a moderate speed this route will take about 8 to 10 hours. We left Delhi at 4 am and was hitting the highway after one hour. Although one has to drive cautiously as you will get in between large cargo trucks most of the time.

It is greatly recommended to stop only after Panipat to avoid getting stuck in traffic. For breakfast you can stop at Pipli. Plenty of restaurants are available in the area.

Once you reached Kasauli there are several accommodations available ranging from backpacker's budget to luxury hotels. Our choice was a modest but charming lodge called Gian Hotel for 500 rupees a night. Dinner at the hotel cost about 40 to 60 rupees per person for a vegetarian meal.

Kasauli is a charming little town with a pleasant climate all year round. It is actually a cantonment established by the British colonial rulers as a hill station in 1842. It's a good pit stop for the day to freshen up and rejuvenate. Surrounded by lush pine trees it is a delight to take either short walks to the market area or take a short trek to the hills.To prepare for your ascent on days to come, walking around Kasauli on a short trek is not only beneficial but also enjoyable. The climate is pleasantly cold and the view is amazing. You can check Gilbert trail or Manky point. A great view of Chandigarh can be seen from up there.

Plan to get a good night sleep and be prepared for a much longer and tougher ride the next day.

Kasauli to Shimla is about 75Km. It's a scenic ride on the side of the mountain as you go up the heights of 7100 ft. It's a busy route with moderate traffic of travelers and locals going on both sides of the road. As you ascend you are greeted with a cluster of hotels and resorts snuggling on the side of the hills. The mountain side is lush and the littering of colorful houses in its midst makes for a charming picture.

Once you reached Shimla is it advised to fill fuel. Traffic on the top of the hill is at its worse. So patience is required. From here you can go straight to Manali which is 190 Km via Kullu. But to avoid the traffic we opted to take a less popular road. The road is not so good and if you are not press for time this route has a lot of pleasant suprises. But be prepared to ride for atleast 12 hours, as most of the roads are rough and narrow with plenty of blind curving loops.

Driving from here up to Manali is a breeze compared to the day before. Roads are good and scenic. You can stop by for a cup of tea on the roadside when you pass by Pandoh dam. The man made river is soothing. Water flowing on the foot of the row of mountains fading into the horizon, reminds one of Chinese classical paintings. Once you start riding, you'll get a close-up view of the habitation growing on the rocky surface of the mountains. They are mostly growing sans direct sunlight so a completely exotic mixture of tropical and desert plants thrives on the surface.

Going through Barog tunnel for 1144 meters was also a treat. Coming out from total pitch dark road to a bright daylight was a jolting experience.
You can also make a short detour to Nagar and visit Nikolay Roerich art museum. A famous Russian artist who spent his last days in Nagar painting the Himalayas. There are restaurants and cafes located around the area. Also a short trek going up for a good view of Nagar valley and peaks. There is really no rush to reach Manali at this day as you have to make your stop over there for the night. Rothang pass is advisable to cross only in the morning.

Once in Manali make a trip to the mechanic for another bike check up as the ride for next following days are going to be tough and ardours. Replenish your supplies of food and fuel. 2 liter jerry cans for extra supply of fuel area available in the area. These are for emergency purpose as the next fuel station after will be at Tandi 107 KM away from Manali.You can also check the market for woolen gloves and caps. It is advised as you acclimatize that you will go on a diet of food rich in carbohydrates and less of protein. You can also carry dried fruits for nourishment on the road. Water will also be a source of oxygen on the high passes so make sure your supply is plenty.

Manali is a very popular tourist destination especially during the school break. It is very crowded and most of the tourist visit Rothang pass in the morning. So get an early start in the morning and a proper rest at night. There will be a lot of accommodation choices for you with varying rates. But mostly rates of 500 rupees a night per room would be the cheapest if you go during the summer season.

Make an early start in the morning. Around 6 am if possible. Day tourist congregate one KM away from the top of Rothang pass. Going up Rothang pass around 51 KM from Manali can be a harrowing ride. At the height of 13,051 ft, cars are speeding and over taking each other. Although the view going up is amazingly beautiful one is advised not to make plenty of stop. Getting back in line of car traffic can be tricky. You must drive carefully as you ascend. There will be patches of broken road with flowing water that you have to cross amidst cars in front and behind you. At five kilometers from the top, the road would be slippery with frozen and unfrozen snow. Once you crossed the top, traffic is very minimal but the roads are very slushy and wet, so extreme caution.

For lunch you can stop at Khoksar. The dhabas serve decent food and clean restrooms are available. Be prepared for more rough riding up to Jispa. You can refill fuel once you pass by Tandi.

You will pass by the town of Keylong and can opt to stay here for the night but in my opinion Jispa would be a nicer place for a stop over. Jispa lies in a charming wide valley with the river rushing past. It's a sleepy place with very little population. It's small and quiet with less than ten vehicle passing by everyday. It is also a good place for acclimatization. We stayed at Jispa the next day for that purpose. For accommodation there is the Ibex hotel. For the budget conscious, dormitories are available at the mountaineering Institute just a little farther ahead. 50 rupees per head but the toilet would be outside the dormitory. For room with toilet it's 250 rupees a night. Meals would be around forty rupees per person. But if you want a proper meal there are good restaurants down at Darcha 6 KM away from there.

Mild mountain sickness hit me at our first night at Jispa. I had a headache, shortness of breath, slight nausea and difficulty in sleeping. I took one tablet of Combiflam and Stemil. After a few minutes I was soundly asleep and feeling refreshed the next day. At the elevation of 3200 meters the surrounding mountains in Jispa is the perfect place for acclimatisation. Your body needs to get used to the receding level of oxygen as you go higher and higher up the Himalayas.

A short trek on the near by hills is recommended. While climbing up you must go on an easy pace without stopping. Walk in short loops around the mountain instead of climbing straight up. Also one must make sure not to perspire a lot and accumulate water in the body which will result, in extreme cases freezing to death. So take off the jacket while walking and put it on right away whenever you make a long stop. This will prevent the sweat from drying up quickly and thus prevent you from falling ill. Make sure to stay away from shades and stand or sit under the sun during your break.

You will be crossing three passes of which the highest is 16,500 ft. the next day so make sure to get plenty of sleep, hydrate and avoid alcohol if possible.

A good advise is to cross all the passes before three in the afternoon. You will come across a great volume of water from melted snow falling down the mountains and running along the roads where you will be riding. Rivers would be over flowing making it near impossible for you to cross.

On this day besides getting delayed from very tempting photo ops you will be crossing three passes to reach Pang. Barlacha La, Naki La Pass and La Chung La Pass. So make sure to start well in time. 6am would be a good time.

For breakfast you can stop over at Darcha, about 6 KM from Jispa. Momos, omelettes and rottis are available. Darcha is also a charming little town with friendly locals who are not shy to chat and joke around with tourists.

After a short stretch of bad roads, once you reach Zingzing bar going up Barlacha la is pure pleasure. It is about 55 KM from Jispa. Roads are dry and wide. Making it one enjoyable ride to the top.

One good stop en route to the top is the picturesque Deepak Tal. The highest lake you will come across on this journey. The Bhaga river originates from here.The water looks inviting but its way too cold to swim.

To savour fully the top of the world feeling upon reaching Barlacha la you can stop for a short break. This is the opportunity for you to hydrate and nourish yourself while enjoying the breathtaking landscape of this pass.

An expansive green valley unfolds before you as you descend from the pass. The ride from Killing Sarai to Sarchu is an enjoyable ride of good flat tarmac roads with " you're all alone in the world " kind of feeling.

Sarchu about 36 km from Barlacha La is a good stop for lunch with several dhabas to choose from. Luxury tents with all amenities are also available at a much costlier price. But for this itinerary ( if you leave from Jispa at 6am you will reach Sarchu at about one in the afternoon) it is too early too camp here for the night. After lunch you can start of to Pang, about 79 KM away. Crossing the next two passes from here would be difficult as at this time most of the snow would already be meltin down and adding volume to the already overflowing river below.

Naki La pass is approximately 40 km from Sarchu. The roads are dry but the ascent to the top is along twenty-one hairpin bends called the Gata Loops. Weather can be unpredictable. On some days crossing this passes would be uneventful. Most biker has listed this passes as the easy ones but for us it was one of the most troublesome passes we encountered. First it had started snowing as soon as we reached Naki La pass. This led to a minor accident. Although the road going to La Chulang Pass are paved asphalt roads speeding while snowing is not recommended. There are several sharp bends and one can have a skidding accident as what happened to one of the riders who were with us.

We had reached La Chung La pass late in the afternoon and all the melted water from the snow on top was pouring down on the road, creating mini waterfalls and streams all over the route. One's driving skill will be tested in this parts. Careful driving and alertness will save your life.

Expect to encounter overflowing rivers with no visible way of crossing to other side. One must asses the situation first and see the best possible way of riding in the gushing water. My husband Sandy had concluded that it's best to ride on the flat smooth surface than through the boulders. Although it looks dangerous and nearer to the edge, it would be easier as most riders got stuck in between the boulders and fell into the water. Crossing this river would be the last difficult task on your way down to Pang. In spite of this, the route offers an amazing ride passing through dramatic gorges. Very surrealistic landscape.

Pang is our stop for the day. For accommodations there are several dhabas to choose from. The tents are bigger than ones in Sarchu. It can house 12 people in one dhaba complete with mattresses and quilts for 150 rupees per head. Meals are also available for 40 to 60 rupees per person. Pang at the height of 4450 meters will be the coldest of all the stops on this trip so make sure to bundle up.

The last leg of the trip offer both enjoyment and challenges with dramatic changes in scenery in a short span of time. A short climb of 5 km from Pang leads you to a flat grassy plateau surrounded by distant snow capped mountains. On the foreground are gentle undulating hills of many hues.

The region is called More ( Moray) Plains. It is 40 km in width and stretches almost 60km to the base of Tanglang la. While enjoying the ride on good flat tarmac surface all the way to the foot of Tanglang la pass you'll get to see nomad camps, yaks and wild horses from a distance.

Although the climb up to the top of Tanglang la is only about 15km it is in my opinion one full hour of horror. The roads are very narrow and slushy and tends to slope down towards the edge of the cliff.

Ice littered the roads, making the climb very slippery. One tip is to ride on the part of the road where there is mud and water. Avoid riding through the ice. Best time to cross passes will be not later than 12 noon to avoid large volume of melting snow on your path.

Once you crossed the top going down and riding towards Leh will be a picnic. The landscape changes dramatically and you will now officially arrive in Ladakh. Here the color of the mountains that you will pass are unbelievably of pastel palette.

For lunch there several dhabas at Rumtse. You can take a break and relish the beauty of green lush meadows amidst the desert.

Ride at your pleasure. This stretch of the trip is where your relaxation begins. In no time you'll reach Leh. A small town with everything you need. There are Internet services, atm, limitless choices of restaurants and hotels. For the budget conscious accommodations would be as low as 150 rupees a night if you opted to stay on a guest house run by local Ladakhis. The locals are very friendly and helpful. This is one Indian town where the local tourists are out numbered by foreigners. No wonder most of the Ladakhis speak very good English. International choices of cuisine are also available. From Continental, European to Thai and Israeli food.

There are several places to explore around Leh. Several travel agencies will cater to all your tour packages need. You can visit the nearby monasteries around Leh or to a much farther town in Alchi. You can also go on an overnight trip to Pangong Tso or to Nubra valley.And if your feeling more adventurous you can go up the highiest motorable road in the world, Khardung La pass at 18,380 ft.

More information about Leh are available in the Internet.

On the way back you can go on the same route or for a slight variation you can pass through Spiti and avoid Rothang pass. Although according to my husband, Sandy crossing Kumzun La pass was no less easier. You can also opt to go through Kashmir if you do not want to come back on the same route.

I hope these informations had been helpful. Have a great adventure! We sure did!

If I thought that riding for eight hours continuously was long, I was underestimating the word long. Riding for more than twelve hours on this day, gave a new definition to the phrase " long (very long) and winding road ". I felt like I had been on that road forever. Like I was born on that road. Like I spent whole of my life on that road. And At the end of the ride, (when it did end) I had thought of ten thousand names for pain. And Fear. The zigzaging roads on the side of the mountain made Kennon road in Bagiou, (Philippines) like a cake walk.

The day begun pleasantly enough as we made our ascent to Shimla. Although the road was busy on both side with coming and going vehicles of tourists and locals, we were cruising on a good speed. I particularly enjoy the sights of colorful houses and hotels precariously perched on the lush mountain side. The breeze was cool and route extremely scenic. The bags, the bike, my husband and I were in perfect harmony. The day couldn't have been better. Until we reached Shimla. At 7100 ft, Shimla had been a favourite destination for the locals. And everyone in India seemed to have decided to visit Shimla on that day. I have never seen so many people in my life. Or so I thought. It was worse in Manali. It was completely impossible to move around anywhere especially towards the route going to Manali. After asking for directions we headed downwards to an alternative but longer ( much longer) route to Manali. Nadeem has also not been in this road before. So nobody in our group know exactly where to go
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After a few kilometers and a few turns, we were suddenly riding on dirt roads. As we kept on ascending we completely left the lush mountain side and was entering a dry barren landscape. The road was getting narrower and curving sharply in unending loops. We then reached the top of a lone mountain, towering over everything. I tried to look down but looked away immediately. " Oh shit!" I muttered to myself, silently. The incline of the mountain was so steep I can't even see the valley below it. And there were no trees on the side only sharp rocks. The thought of our mangled body falling down the cliff kept flashing on my mind. I gritted my teeth as Sandy drove the bike through another blind curve. I did a mental calculation on the chances of survival if we would fall on that mountain. Then I thought," What chances. No one can survive falling down there at all".
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" That looks so dangerous." Sandy blurted out softly looking at the steep and narrow roads ahead of us. I laughed, feeling relieved. I thought I was the only who was getting scared. We could also see more of the same snaking roads on the adjoining mountains ahead. As we drive on I tried to figure out which mountain would be less or more dangerous to fall on.
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After descending for five km Sandy and Nadeem decided to stopped for a moment. We could see a river from up there.
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" These roads are too much!" Nadeem exclaimed as he got down from the bike.
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"I think that's Satluj river." Sandy remarked pointing to the river below.
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" Are the roads ever going to be better? " I asked them while stretching my legs. My whole body was singing with pain.

" I think the roads are only going to be worse." Nadeem replied.

And it were. A few times we had to stop while waiting for the road laborers to finish putting tar on the road. My first thought was, " What now? Are we turning back? This seems to be the end of the road. " But we only went on and on endlessly.

After five hours we descended. On the way down, the landscape turned green again. We passed by a scarlet area with flaming red trees down towards the bridge where Sutluj river was. We debated whether there was a forest fire or if the foliage was naturally that way.

It was amazing to see the river closely after seeing it on top of the mountain. It made me realize how far down we went. Up there it looked like a thin white line. I looked up to gaze at the mountains where we descended from. It towers mightily over everything, almost reaching the sky. I had never seen such tall mountains in my life.

We parked the bike and hang out by the bridge for a while. And enjoyed the cool breeze coming from the water.The flow of the river was very strong, cascading rapidly over big boulders scattered on the river bed. It was powerful enough to irrigate the whole town.

The slight chill in the air made the two boys start craving for something to smoke. Sandeep had recalled how he enjoyed the taste of cigar, that would'nt it be neat if they can have some now. Nadeem told Sandeep that if he likes cigars so much he should check out this website that offer attractive packages for cigar lover, http://www.famous-smoke.com/. Sandeep said that he knew about the website and had order from them sometime back. He said he was so pleased with the quality of their cigars for such a reasonable price. And that if you buy a bundle you get a free cutter and free ground shipping. The free cutter and torch would have otherwise cost him 21.95 dollars. Was'nt that a steal, he told Nadeem. Nadeem grunted. As I am not a smoker myself, I kept quiet while the two indulge in their repartee. Sandeep had the taste for cigar after a friend had gifted him a few years back. He said beside the taste, he likes the way it relaxes him and enjoy some quiet moments. It also gave him an opportunity to be by himself and focus on his work and painting. I sighed and told them that I think we should start moving if we want to catch lunch on time. Anyways, if you wanna try some fine Macundo cigar check this link //www.famous-smoke.com/ . Famous Smoke Shop features Cohiba cigars, Macanudo cigars and all other major cigar brands at big discounts. They also carry a wide variety of cigar humidors, cigar cutters and accessories for cigars.
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Slightly ascending again we scouted for a place to eat which was not an easy task as the whole area was deserted. After thirty minutes we chanced upon a dhaba but they only served tea. Some locals who were having tea told us that there was a hotel with a restaurant, near by.
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The place was surprisingly fancy looking. A charming cluster of small summer houses amidst a colorful flower garden. The restaurant was neat and upscale. Food was decent .We had dal and roti as always but a side dish of papad was a treat. I couldn't recall the name of the place though. I forgot to note it down during the trip.

The route after lunch was a pleasant surprise. As we descended lower, we were again amidst lush forest of pine trees. We passed a beautiful valley with yellow green meadows landscaped into wide terraces. Abound with apple and apricot orchards. We made several stop to relish the beauty of the place.

We did more riding up and down the valley. Roads were bad and good. And soon it was getting dark but the end of the journey was still no where in sight. Sandy and Nadeem were still confused about the destination. As the sky dim, Sandy increased his speed. I freaked out. Darkness plus blind curves, a dangerous combination. And the bumps were killing me.

" Honey please drive a carefully." I said, curtly.

"I am still driving safely honey. It's getting late we need to drive faster." He replied.

" The bumps are hurting me so much." I said.

" A little more honey, only a little more. We are almost there." He said.His voice softening.

" Look at trees honey they are so beautiful. " He urged me gently.

" I have already seen so many trees today! " I snapped, unappeased. But he knows me. My mood improved slightly and soon we were joking around again. But my cheerfulness didn't last for long. Soon I was getting agitated again. We have been riding for more than twelve hours now and still I didn't see any end to the road ahead.

" Where are we freaking going? " I asked Sandy.

Nadeem was behind us and we stopped to wait for him. When he finally reached us Sandy told him that we should stop at Sunder Nagar only. It would take at least two more hours to ride to Kullu and it was already dark.

" Coco's getting desperate." He said. Nadeem looked at me and I felt like the biggest chicken shit again. I didn't want this. I didnt want to be the dead weight in the trip.I didn't want to be the cause of delay. I didn't want to be a spoiled princess. But It was just too impossible for me to ride anymore.

When we reached the town we checked in the nearest hotel we could found as it was too painful for me to walk. I was already very cranky and just wanted to slumped in bed .We all stayed in one room at the modest hotel in front of Satluj canal to save on hotel expense. From here on there won't be any privacy for me and Sandy until we reached Leh.