Discus Fish. How To Own Maintain And Keep Healthy Discus Fish!

Discus come from the warm, soft, acidic waters of the Amazon River and thrive when these conditions are replicated in the home aquarium.

For both general maintenance and breeding of discus the pH should be kept at 6.5 and the temperature
around 86 F.

Any alterations that need to be made to the water chemistry should always be done prior to the water being added to the tank.

For general maintenance water changes should be performed weekly. However in the breeding tank, a small water change should be done every day, or every second day.

"Frequent water changes increase appetite and promote mating activity in discus".

It's no coincidence that discus will often spawn after a water change.

"Discus fish are a genus of three species of freshwater cichlid fishes which are native to the Amazon River basin".

Discus fish are popular as aquarium fish and their aquaculture in several countries in Asia is a major industry.

Discus fish belong to the genus Symphysodon, which currently includes three species:

The common discus (Symphysodon aequifasciatus), the Heckel discus (Symphysodon discus), and a new species which has been named Symphysodon tarzon.

A further investigation published in August 2007 suggests that the genus held three species: S. aequifasciatus, S. haraldi and S. discus.

"Feeding discus is sometimes a challenge. They have no unique nutritional requirements."

They can be raised on just about any high-protein fish food.

However, discus are often extremely cautious about new foods; it is not unusual for them to go for weeks before accepting a new type of food.

Therefore, when purchasing discus it is a good idea to ask what they are being fed and even to ask to see them eat.

After starving for a month discus will almost always accept a new food, but this may stunt the growth of younger fish and cause undue stress to already stressed fish.

It is not advisable to use the starving method for weening discus off of one food for another.

Instead, mix the new food with the discus' preferred food. Over time, the discus will begin to accept the new food, and the old can be discontinued.

Beef heart is often fed to discus in order to promote good coloration and quick growth.

Pork and turkey heart has also been used to achieve a similar effect.

However, concern over the long-term consequences of feeding discus a diet so high in mammalian protein has prompted some hobbyists to switch their discus to a diet of krill, a shrimp-like crustacean.

Discus delight in small live prey, which is the best option for them in the long term.

Live black worms, bloodworms, brine shrimp and mosquito larvae are all eagerly eaten by discus.

Care must be taken when feeding discus live food though, for bacteria and parasites can be present.

For this reason it is advisable to buy live food from aquarium retailers.

Live tubifex worms should not be fed to discus AT ALL because it is practically impossible to remove all of the bacteria from them.

It is safe however to feed discus freeze dried tubifex cubes as the bacteria and/or parasites have been removed in the process. If live food is unavailable, the best alternative is quality frozen food.

The best artificial food for discus is a high quality granulate food. Flakes are also a good option but granules retain vitamins, minerals and other trace elements better than flakes.

They always love frozen blood worms. Liquid vitamin supplements and garlic extract are often added to frozen and live foods.

Simply adding the recommended dose (usually 1 or 2 drops) to a portion and allowing it to soak in over a period of a few minutes is sufficient.

For More Discus Secrets Click Here!

Discus Fish Explained As An Introduction For The Beginner.

Many thanks to the Fishlore.com forum for this excellent Discus fish guide.

Equipment requirements

TANK SIZE: Minimum 55gal tank for 5-7 Discus.

FILTER: aqua clear 500 or equivalent size for your tank. Or two aquaclear 50's. (200)

HEATER: At least a 250w heater, again depending on the size of the tank.

THERMOMETER

GLASS CANOPY AND LIGHTED HOOD.

SYPHON/VACUMM

AIR PUMP: Check-valve and airstone or bubble wand for aeration.

DECHLORINATOR: such as Seachem Prime.

PLANTS: advantage of a planted tank are increase in nitrate utilization, hiding places for the fish, and a pleasing decorated look. (optional of course)

GRAVEL: Diverse issue. Some Discus owners will not use gravel in the fear of poor water quality due to waste buildup.

Others believe in a BB Bare bottom. In my opinion if you put in the extra time and effort to throughly vacuum your gravel the look in the tank is very appealing.

WATER TEST KIT: Liquid test kit the best way to go. I recommend API Freshwater Master kit.

Temperature requirements

Discus require warmer temperatures than other tropical fish.

Preferably 84*-87*, with 82* being the lowest. Use a 250w heater in a 55g tank. 2x 250w heaters on opposite sides of the tank if temp* readings are unstable.

Water quality requirements

Discus require pristine water conditions.

This is supplied by frequent water changes.Anywhere from every other day at 25%. Some owners do a twice weekly 40% water change and others have done a once a week water change at 50%.

Check your water parameters often with a test kit, and be your own judge as what is best.

Water stability:

Stability in water conditions is the key to keeping discus trying to change water paremeters will do more harm than good.

They can be kept in a wide range of hardness,its when you are breeding discus that the hardness will matter. [Nicole]

Water changes: I have learnt that the best way to avoid illness is to do alot of water changes even if your water paremeters are fine, and when there is an illness most of the time I have been able to treat by quarantening the sick fish and doing daily
water changes without medicating. [Nicole]

Carbon/Activated charcoal

Do not use the AC in the filter. This may lead to disease in Discus fish. Carbon can be used for a short time to remove med.

Kept in tank longer, it may result in releasing impurities back into the water resulting in poor water quality and disease.

pH level

For the most part there is no need to change your PH level unless it is so low and acidic that it will burn the fish.

Consistency in quality and parameters are more important than using chemicals and additives to lower or raise your PH.

PH chemicals measured incorrectly will cause massive PH swings that can kill your fish. Readings of 6.4-7.8 and even 8.5 have been shown to successfully be safe for Discus, as long as the PH does not fluctuate.

Food

A variety of food that consist of: Blackworms, Tetra Flakes, beefhearts(messy), Omega One Color enhanced Flakes, Omega One freeze dried bloodworms, Hikari frozen Brine Shrimp,Hikari frozen Krill and Hikari (sterilized) bloodworms are a few choices that come to mind.

Juvenile Discus need to be fed often. At least 5 times a day.

"Small amounts.. more often" is the general rule of thumb. The adults should be fed at least 3-4 times a day. Take the time to slowly feed these fish and you can monitor what gets collected at the bottom of the tank.

It may take a little longer to do this, but it helps in the long run with keeping the tank and water clean. When feeding them the beefheart or bloodworms, its a good idea to plan that menu for the day you do a water change.

That way you get to clean up what they don't get soon after.

What to look for when buying a new discus




Discus Fish Help And Advice For Better Healthier Happier Fish

Healthy Discus from a reputable supplier or breeder.

Shape:
Look for roundness of body.

Eyes:
Eyes should be clear. vibrant and round. Eyes that are not in proportion to the body size is a good indicator of stunted growth.

Eyes that are chipped usually describe a fish with compromised genetics and or inbreeding.Not to say that this fish is ill, and its totally acceptable if you do not want to breed them.

Forehead:

Ideal Discus should have a circular shaped forehead.

Finnage:
Fins should protrude out of the body and curve around in an almost semi circle shape. Thin fins can indicate poor nutrition and frayed fins can indicate disease.

Other good signs:
Over all watch for good breathing rates, gill movement and body language, and stress/mood bars.

Does this Discus interact with others or stay in the corner of the tank? Is its coloring very dark... blotchy... Does it appear lethargic?

These are indicators of a weak fish or one that may be sick or overly stressed.

Finally remember: Clean water and a varied diet make for a happy, healthy fish! Happy fishkeeping!!! ~ kate

Quarantaine:
Always quarantaine when you purchase newbies that are going to be added to a community tank,it will save your fish if there are any underlyeing illness. [Nicole]

New tankmates:

Discus are very picky when it comes to adding any new ones..

If you notice a sudden change in behaviour after a new addition be patient, it doesn't allways mean there is an illness.[Nicole]

Disease Diagnostic [by Nicole]

This is a basic signs/symptoms chart to add to the caresheet.

Please note that this is a general guide and is based on my personal experience and what I've learned through keeping discus.

Cloudy Eye: Clear white, transparent film covering one or both eyes. There are a few causes the main cause being poor water conditions.

Other possible causes could be fungus,bacterial and parasites. The first step I would take is alot of water changes over a period of time and see if this helps, also when purchasing discus check what pH they have been kept in as this can also be a cause.

Skin and Gill Flukes: Rapid breathing, scratching against objects, holding one gill closed are all signs.

Start with doing 50% water changes daily and seek appropiate medication.

Fin Rot: Frayed or decaying fins,one of the main causes is again poor water conditions although that is not allways the case.Treat fin rot as soon as you notice it to prevent secondary infections.

I had a bad case once, and treated it with 5ml of melafix to 10g water with every water change.I done daily water changes for 5 days and successfully treated this problem. Another way is daily water changes with salt added.

Hexamita: First signs would be slimy white feces/shedding stomach lining,loss of appetite,weight loss.

Gradually fish will isolate itself and become very dark in colour and hang its head.If detected in early stages you can treat by turning the temp up in tank and daily water changes add salt to water.

If fish is passed early stages more invasive treatment is needed such as metro daily.

Tapeworm: White segmented feces,treat with prazi and keep water conditions clean.

Hole in the Head: H.I.T.H. will start of as a small dot in the forehead area although this can happen on other parts of the body.

I successfully treated this as I noticed it first as a small pin ***** that was gradually becomming rounder and wider in shape. I did daily 50% water changes for about 2 weeks. It solved the problem and it hasn't returned.

If you do get a more serious case of this treat with appropiate medication.

Faeces: The feces of a fish can tell you alot, basically its normally dark, if you notice a change in colour you need to check out the cause.

If it white or slimy it can be a sign of internal illness and yellow feces can mean capillaria.

As silly as it sounds keep an eye on what is normal for your fish.

Many thanks to http://www.fishlore.com/




Discus Fish Help And Advice For Better Healthier Happier Fish

Scientific Name : Symphysodon aequifasciatus

Common Names : Many, due to color patterns: Cobalt Discus, Blue Discus, Blue Faced, Blue-Head, Red Thunder, Blue Red Turquoise, Marlboro Red, Pigeon Blood, Green, Brown, Snake Skin, Spotted Strawberry, the list goes on and on and on.

Discus Care Level :

Moderate to Difficult, needs frequent partial water changes to keep water parameters at optimum levels.

Size : Up to 6 inches (15 cm)

pH : 5 - 7

Temperature : 80°F - 86°F (27°C - 30°C)

Water Hardness : 1° to 8° dH,

Life span : If well cared for, they can live for 10 years or more.

Origin / Habitat : Amazon River

Temperament / Behavior : Very peaceful most of the time. They may become territorial when they pair off to breed.

Discus Breeding / Mating / Reproduction :

Breeding them can be very difficult because of the pristine water conditions that they require.

Tank Size : 30 gallon minimum, prefer tall aquariums

Compatible Tank Mates : It is usually best to keep them in a species only tank because of their water requirements.

The Cardinal tetra and Corydoras, Cory Cat are sometimes kept in tanks with them and make good tank mates.

Discus Fish Disease :

Freshwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment

Diet / Fish Food : Prefer live foods but you may need to supplement with foods enriched with vitamins. Try to vary their diet for optimum health. There are foods made specifically for Discus.

Tank Region : Middle

Gender : The genital papilla is pointed in males, and rounded in females. You have to observe them when they are spawning.

Similar Species : Cichlids

Full Credit goes to: fishlore/profiles discus



Make Sure You Look After Your Discus Fish - - Or They WILL Die!