The granny square is one of the most popular stitches in crocheting. The pattern was brought to America by the early European settlers who brought their delicate lace crocheting techniques with them.

The early American women carefully saved odds and ends of yarn--left-over colors, ravellings from sweaters and socks--all to be made into a blanket. The yarn was crocheted into small squares, and when enough squares were completed, they were sewn together to make a colorful blanket useful for many purposes--as a bedspread, for a shawl, as a leg and lap covering, for sleighing, for "bundling," as a throw over a rocking chair, or for colorful decoration around the house.

Round 1:
ch 8, sl st through first ch (forming a circle)
ch 3, dc 2 in circle (first side of square; ch 3 equals a dc)
ch 3 (corner), dc 3 in circle (one side) (rep 2)
ch3, sl st through third ch of ch3

Round 2:
ch 3, dc 2 in top of ch in round 1
ch 1, dc 3 in next sp
ch 3 (corner), dc 3 in same sp
ch 1, dc 3 in next sp
ch 3 (corner), dc 3 in same sp
ch 1, dc 3 in next sp
ch 3 (corner), dc 3 in same sp
ch 3, dc 3 in next sp
ch 3, sl st through third ch of ch3

Round 3 and more:
ch 3, dc 2 in top of ch in previous round
ch 1, dc 3 in next sp (repeat until corner is reached)
ch 3 (corner), dc 3 in same sp
ch 1, dc 3 in next sp (repeat until corner is reached)
ch 3 (corner), dc 3 in same sp
ch 1, dc 3 in next sp (repeat until corner is reached)
ch 3 (corner), dc 3 in same sp
ch 3, dc 3 in next sp (repeat until corner is reached)
ch 3, sl st through third ch of ch3
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These are instructions for a "traditional" granny square. There are many variations. ____________________________________________________

The variations and combinations of colors and patterns (or randomness) make each granny square afghan as individual as the person who made it.

My first crocheting project (at age 10) was granny squares. I used leftover yarn and made enough squares to make a full size afghan that I still have. I could never duplicate this one.

The pattern below is for a generic granny square. The possibilities are endless.
Choose your colors to follow a decorating scheme
Arrange the squares in a certain pattern
Or be completely spontaneous in color and pattern

I do, however, recommend that the last round you crochet on each square be the same color. This will frame each square and provide them all with something in common.

The number of squares needed depends on the size of the squares and the size you want the afghan to be. After you've crocheted the number of squares you need, it's time to put them together!!

You can put them together in many different ways. But no matter which way you attach them to each other the first thing you should do is determine the placement of each square. Bundle each row together and label it, i.e., row 1, row 2, etc.

Crocheting them together

Take the first two squares from row 1. With the front sides together, starting at the right, slip stitch the two squares together, inserting crochet hook in the top of each double crochet and chain stitch.

Take the third square from row 1 and attach it the square 2 in the same manner and continue the process until all squares in the row are attached.

Then start row 2. When that is completed, attach row to to row 3 in the same manner. Continue on until the afghan is completed.

The video below will show how to sew them together.

I like to finish the afghan with some kind of border, but it's up to you. Sometimes I double crochet a row, sometimes single crochet, sometimes a combination. Be creative!!!

This section will always be available. I hope all you new crocheters will find it helpful.

Besides color, weight is an important characteristic of yarn. Yarn weight refers to the thickness of the yarn.

There are six different categories of yarn weights ranging from super-fine to super-bulky. Specific weights of yarn should produce a fairly uniform number of stitches per inch (gauge) when using a particular sized needle. The higher the weight, the less stitches per inch. (This is usually all on the label.)

For beginners, I recommend using a medium weight yarn.

Gauge:
Gauge is a measurement. It indicates how many stitches and rows there are in an inch. Some people crochet tightly, others loosely. The trick is to find the size crochet hook that gives the correct gauge for the way you crochet. Remember, the smaller the hook, the smaller the stitch.

Examples:

Each square should measure 11 inches
If you were crocheting a square with this gauge and your finished square measured 10 inches, you need a larger hook

14 sts = 4 inches
12 rows = 4 inches
If you crocheted 14 stitches and it measured 6 inches, you need a smaller hook

Yarn Weight Categories and Names

Lace: Fingering, 10-count crochet thread
Super Fine: Baby, Fingering, Sock
Fine: Baby, Sport
Light: DK, Light, Worsted
Medium: Afghan, Aran, Worsted
Bulky: Chunky, Craft, Rug
Super Bulky: Bulky, Roving

Crochet hooks come in different sizes and can be made out of different materials:

Aluminum/plastic hooks are normally used when working with yarn. They measure about 6 inches in length and vary in thickness from 2.5 mm to 19 mm. I recommend an aluminum hook; plastic has a tendency to bend with use.

Steel hooks are used for crocheting with thread and fine yarns (for tablecloths, placemats, doilies). They measure about 5 inches in length and run from .75 mm to 3.5 mm wide.

The size you choose depends on the weight of the yarn you will be working with. Use this as a general guideline:

2-ply (lace): B
3-ply: B or C
4-ply: B or C
sport: B, C, or D
bulky: L or N

When you work with a pattern, it will usually tell you what size crochet hook to use. But there's also something called "gauge" which we'll discuss later. For right now, if you're just trying out stitches, I'd recommend an H or I crochet hook. But if you have another size, that'll work just as well for practicing.

How to hold a crochet hook:

There are different ways to hold crochet hooks. You need to determine which is more comfortable for you.

The more popular grip is similar to holding a pencil. Hold the crochet hook in your writing hand. It will rest between your thumb and middle finger, just like a pencil would.

The other grip (the one I prefer) is more of an "overhand" grip. Hold the hook the way you would hold a spoon or a tennis racquet.

Crochet instructions can look like a foreign language. They are written mostly in abbreviations. Here's an example:

Ch 4, join with sl st to first ch to form ring.
RND 1: Ch3, 2 dc in rg. Ch 2, *3dc in rg, ch3. Repeat from * 2 times more. Ch2, slst in top of ch3.

RND 2: Sl st in the first 2 dc's and in the first ch 2 lp. Ch3, 2 dc in ch 2

I know, you're thinking, "What is this trying to tell me?" Relax; there's a list of abbreviations below.

approx: approximately
beg: begin, beginning
bl: block
BLO: back loop only
BO: bind off
CC: contrasting color
ch: chain
cont: continue, continuing
dc: double crochet
dec: decrease
dbl: double
dtr: double triple
fol: follow, following
hdc: half double crochet
HM: half motif
inc: increase
lp(s): loops
M: motif
MC: main color
patt: pattern
rem: remain, remaining
rep: repeat
rnd: round
RS: right side
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
sp: space
st: stitch
tbl: through back of loop
tog: together
tr: treble (triple) crochet
WS: wrong side
YB or ytb: yarn to back of work
YF or ytf: yarn to front of work
YO: yarn over

Asterisks (*) are used to mark the beginning and the ending of instructions which will be worked more than once. Example: "rep between * * three times" means work the instructions between the asterisks once, then repeat the instructions between the asterisks 3 more times (4 times in all).

Parentheses [( )] are used to enclose instructions which should be worked the exact number of times specified immediately following the parentheses. Example: (dc, sc) four times.
They are also used to list the garment sizes and to provide additional information to clarify instructions.

Brackets ([ ]) are used the same way as parentheses, but usually appear in combination with them to further clarify instructions.

Chain stitch (ch): YO, pull yarn through last chain stitch made

Slip stitch (sl st): insert hook in top two yarns of stitch, YO once, pull through stitch and loop on hook

Single crochet (sc): insert hook in top two yarns of stitch, YO once, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), YO, pull yarn through both loops (one loop left)

Double crochet (dc): YO once, insert hook in top two yarns of stitch, YO once, pull through stitch (three loops on hook), YO, pull yarn through two loops (two loops on hook), YO, pull yarn through two loops (one loop left)

Triple (treble) crochet (tr): YO twice, insert hook in top two yarns of stitch, YO once, pull through stitch (four loops on hook), YO, pull yarn through two loops (three loops on hook), YO, pull yarn through two loops (two loops on hook), pull yarn through two loops (one loop left)

Short double crochet (sdc): YO once, insert hook in top two yarns of stitch, YO once, pull through stitch (three loops on hook), YO, pull yarn through all three loops on hook (one loop left)

Double treble crochet (dtrc): YO three times, insert hook in top two yarns of stitch, YO once, pull through stitch (five loops on hook), YO once, pull through two loops (four loops on hook), YO once, pull through two loops (three loops on hook), YO once, pull through two loops (two loops on hook), YO once, pull through two loops (one loop left)

yarn over (YO): wrap yarn around crochet hook back to front

All crochet projects start with a slip knot and then a series of chain stitches. (The number of chain stitches depends on your pattern.)

1. Hold the yarn about three inches from the end. (The end is called the tail and the part connected to the rest of the yarn is the working yarn.)

2. Wrap the tail around the working yarn back to front creating a loop.

3. Pull the tail through the loop.

4. Insert your crochet hook in the loop

5. Hold the working yarn while pulling the tail until the loop fits your crochet hook.

This will take a little practice, but once you get it, it's like riding a bike.
Now you're ready to start your chain stitches!

Half double crochet (hdc): YO; insert hook into specified stitch; YO); YO and pull through all three loops

Single crochet 2 together (sc2tog): insert hook in next 2 stitches; YO and pull through all three loops

Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog): [YO; insert hook in next stitch; YO and pull through two loops] twice; YO and pull through all 3 loops

Reverse single crochet (reverse sc): insert hook in to next stitch to right; pull up a loop; YO and pull through two loops