Dog Behavior Training

A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy. Dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly but there's just no getting around it.
Dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that's how they've survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily. It's hard to counteract the power of instinct.

But that doesn't mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There's a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place and even if prevention hasn't been possible for whatever reason, there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.

Different aggression types.

There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:

Aggression towards strangers

Aggression towards family members

You may be wondering why we're bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details. Well not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.

Aggression towards strangers.

What is it?

It's pretty easy to tell when a dog's nervy around strange people. He's jumpy and on the alert. Either he can't sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining, or he's veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he's tied up outside a store.)

Why does it happen?

There's one major reason why a dog doesn't like strange people. He's never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him. without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn't necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?

What can I do about it?

The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog's upbringing. in fact, it's pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he's had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.

How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?

When you socialize your dog, you're getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It's not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to Settle down, Roxy, it's OK, he has to learn that it's OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppy hood for the lesson to sink in.

The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy and safe around strangers, he'll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn't develop a fear of strangers?

Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do, it's more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).

In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there'll be at least two trainers present, the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands. Sit, stay and so on.

Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions. Several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.

This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills. There's a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there's a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there's at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don't get out of hand).

Socialization doesn't just stop with puppy preschool, though. Its an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog. He needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments. Remember not to overwhelm him. Start off slow and build up his tolerance gradually.

Aggression towards family members

There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family. He's trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).
This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there's actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.
He's not comfortable with the treatment/handling he's getting from you or other members of the family.

What's resource guarding?

Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog, for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he's eating, or giving you the eye (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.

All dogs can be possessive from time to time, it's in their natures. Sometimes they're possessive over things with no conceivable value, inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.

Why does it happen?

It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept. Dogs are pack animals. This means that they're used to a very structured environment, in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or dominance) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else's turf).

To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well. This is where it gets interesting. If your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he's going to get cheeky. If he's really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he'll start to act aggressively. Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal, the consequences would be dire, and he knows it.

Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior. Only a higher-ranked dog (a dominant dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources. To put it plainly, if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he'd never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.

So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you're the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.

You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in time out, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour. If you're not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog trainer.

Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he's trying to say, this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively. Train regularly. keep obedience sessions short and productive. Not more than fifteen minutes, maybe two or three of these per day.

You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link below: Sitstayfetch

SitStayFetch

Why doesn't my dog like to be handled?

All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders. This is the ultimate "I'm the boss" gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won't tolerate it. Others usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age aren't comfortable with too much full body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.

Another common cause of handling induced aggression is a bad grooming experience. Nail clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog's nails, it's very easy to "quick" him, that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.

Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with. A lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog's sense of panic and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.

Can I retrain him to enjoy being handled and groomed?

In a word, yes. It's a lot easier if you start from a young age - handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled, it's only older ones who haven't had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.

Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet - whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.

For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm. The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats and treats.

Take things slowly, Don't push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason. They're warning you to back off, or else. If your dog just can't seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it's best to hand the job over to the professionals.

Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog grooming business is a flourishing industry, for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals. Again, make sure you tell them about your dog's reaction to the experience first.

For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch. It's a complete owner's guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership. To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look.

You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link below: Sitstayfetch

Can I Train A Neurotic Dog

All dogs can be trained, the problem with training them isnt the dog it is the master, if your dog is neurotic, and his main problem in life is likely to be you. Dogs neurosis may start when they are very young, first off he was taken from his family and given to a giant that he didnt know. Imagine living in a world where your best friend can pick you up
by the neck and put you anywhere he wants you.

In your world, you cant always sleep on the bed, but are relegated to the floor, which everyone knows isnt as soft as the bed. You may even be asked to spend hours, even days, out in the cold, rain and snow. Neurosis begins to develop, and as the master of a neurotic dog it is your responsibility to effectively teach him, best of luck.

First you must remember that if a dog is neurotic, it will be difficult to teach him that following your commands, will make his life any better. All he has to do is look around him to realize that he is the only one that is required to learn anything. He has never seen a cat being trained to sit, lie down or stay, but the cat still gets fed on a regular basis, as a matter of fact, his master seems to prefer the cat, this only increases his neurosis.

It is however possible to train a neurotic dog, here is one example of this success. Monty, a 6 month old Labrador is taken home to live with his new family, he loves to chew on books. Rather than punish Monty, his master comes to the conclusion that psychology would work better. He removes the books by putting them on a higher shelf, as Monty grows; the books get put higher and higher.

Finally, the owner moves his last few books to the top shelf of the closet. At last, Monty stops chewing on books, the training has been successful, however his master has also stopped reading. For More Information.. Visit.. Puppy And Dog Training Secrets!

Veterinary Secrets Revealed

Allergies In Dogs- Devolopment & Treatment

Allergies are one of the most common complaints among dog owners. Truly, not too many puppies have allergies their first year but many are already becoming sensitized to things in their environment. If your puppy already shows signs of allergies, and some do, don't hesitate to get it treated. You may head off a lifetime of trouble if you get a handle on it early. Allergies get worse every year if left untreated.

Allergies usually materialize in the form of small skin eruptions, rashes, hair loss, itching, moist or oozing dermatitis, and ear infections. Dogs will over wash themselves, chew, scratch, and rub to alleviate the sensations which in turn makes them worse.

How Allergies Develop

Allergies are such that your dog may be exposed to a pathogen one year and show no outward signs of ailment this time. Next time he comes in contact, it will create a reaction, maybe small at first, but each time he is getting more sensitized and each time the reaction will be a little, or a lot worse. We often hear owners saying, "he never had this problem before". Yeah, we know, that's how it works.

Dogs can develop allergies to any number of things such as grass, trees, shrubs, dust mites, molds, and most commonly fleas. If your dog has an allergy to something, it will take very little to set of a histamine reaction in his body. Dogs are most commonly allergic to things their skin touches rather than something they inhale. They may be allergic to pollen but it is usually a contact problem, not an inhalant one like with people.

Most Common Cause

Fleas are the most common cause of allergies by far. You may not even think your dog has fleas but it could only take one bite to set him off. One of the most important things you can do is protect him against fleas. Protect him aggressively and often. There are excellent products on the market now such as Advantage, Frontline, Revolution, and Sentinel. A couple of these require simple blood tests before they can be used because they also protect against heartworms. You must always make sure your dog is not infected before starting on heartworm medication.

Treating For Fleas

It is also vital that you treat not only your pet but also his environment as best you can. Fleas can live anywhere. They reside quite nicely in your yard, grass, sand, dirt, carpet, bedding and anywhere else you can think of. And the are resilient. Persistence is a must. One study showed fleas that were found in Arctic Turns nests which were thawed out and found to be still viable after having been frozen for a long time.

The fleas life cycle must be broken to gain any sort of advantage at depleting their population. Treat the house, the yard, and your pets. Make sure you use products that are safe for all your pets. Cats and other small animals can be very sensitive to toxins. Please never use over the counter products unless they are recommended by your veterinarian. Many of the products sold in stores are very dangerous and can be deadly, especially to cats.

Treating The Allergy

There are many ways to treat your dog if he develops allergies. If it is not too bad you may only have minor flare ups in the summer which can be treated with oatmeal baths and antihistamines. The dogs who really suffer often require year round treatment, or at least aggressive treatment through their sensitive times of the year. A regimen may include injections of steroids, antihistamine and steroid tablets, a special diet, flea products, and frequent soothing baths.

Food Allergies

Less that 10% of dogs who have allergies are allergic to what they eat. We often make that leap on our own because there are so many allergies with the human population. Not so with your dog. While it is quite possible. It is not usually the best place to start looking for solutions. Many dog food companies have created diets for those dogs who are sensitive to their diets however. Hills and Nature's Recipe are among the leaders. They make a variety of foods with ingredients that your dog won't have come in contact with. They may include venison, duck, whitefish, lamb, rice and potato.

The trick to ruling out a food allergy is to eliminate everything else they may put in their mouths and it will take up to 60 days to clear everything from their system. You must only change their diet but also eliminate treats unless they are just hand outs of the same biscuits he gets at meals. You must have him eat from stainless bowls. You must remove any chew toys, like rawhides, and cows hooves. This sounds easy but it must be maintained without hesitation or fail or else it will all be for not. Any contact will set you back to the beginning.

Environmental Allergies

Dogs and usually allergic to more than one antigen. Most will react to varying degrees to a number of different things the come in contact with. While dogs are often allergic to pollens, it is not usually due to inhalation, but due to contact with the skin. If your dog has a severe sensitivity to grass for instance, you may need to wash off his feet every time he comes in from outside. Even just rinsing them will help prevent further involvement. He may need baths several times a week but only with specific types of treatments and direction from the veterinarian. The wrong things could aggravate instead of help the problem.

Dog allergies usually come in the form of dermatitis, some form of skin inflamation, itching, redness, hair loss, scratching, oozing, and ear infections. The animals are truly miserable and inconsolable. If you can get by with a few treatments in a season you should consider yourself lucky as allergies go. If you have a dog who is sensitive to something all year or hyper sensitive at certain times of the year you may need to explore allergy testing and injections.

Allergy Testing

Allergy testing is the best way to determine what exactly you are battling and how best to handle it. The tests are done either in the form of skin testing where part of the dog is shaved and tiny amounts of possible allergens are injected under or applied to the skin to see what he might react to. The areas are checked regularly for signs of reaction. Another is a blood test where the dog's blood is drawn and sent to a special laboratory who just does this type of blood work. The results can take a week or two but the answers come without further insult to the dog's skin.

A blood test will tell you not only what they are allergic to, but HOW allergic they are. It will show a titer, or a number out of normal range to help you and the vet understand how severe it is. The test will cover 20 or more different possible pathogens which are prominent in your part of the country and test the blood to all of them. You can also test for food allergies this way.

One other benefit of blood testing is that you have not only the vet and his experience but you also have the laboratory to help guide him with their vast and focused expertise. The labs will guide you through the many types of treatments that may be done at home and by the vet.

Antigen Therapy

Once the blood work has determined what the dog is allergic to, the lab can make an antigen therapy which the dog will undergo to begin de-sensitizing him. The antigen vial will contain an injectable and sterile form of what the dog is allergic to. Tiny amounts are injected under the skin and regular intervals and strengths to allow the dogs body to start to build a tolerance to it. This can take months and may have to be done every so often to maintain the effect but it is the most promising form of treatment.

If your dog has severe allergies you and your vet will become well acquainted so make sure you and your dog are comfortable with them and their office. Allergies can be expensive, infuriating, frustrating, and time consuming but they can almost always be alleviated. For more infomation on dog health and others, see our Blog On Pet Health.

The pancreas serves two main functions in the body, producing insulin that enables the body to utilize and store glucose and producing pancreatic enzymes essential for the digestion of food. Problems with pancreatic function can cause either diabetes, exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, or pancreatitis. Pancreatitis is an inflammation of the pancreas usually resulting in pancreatic enzymes leaking into the abdomen.

It occurs in both dogs and cats, but is most common among overweight, middle aged dogs. Pancreatitis can be acute or chronic and can be anywhere from mild to quite severe, painful, and life threatening. Companion animals with mild pancreatitis may be treated at home while those with severe disease will require hospitalization and intensive care. Chronic pancreatitis can reoccur, or eventually lead to diabetes.

A high fat diet, obesity or injury can bring on pancreatitis. Overuse of corticosteroids, sulfa containing antibiotics, certain chemotherapy drugs, anti convulsants, or diuretic drugs can also contribute to pancreatitis as well as exposure to organophosphate insecticides. Pancreatitis may be an indication of other underlying disease issues such as kidney or cardiovascular disease or possibly a bacterial infection. Animals with a hypothyroid condition, Cushings disease, or diabetes are predisposed to pancreatitis. Miniature Schnauzers are more prone to developing pancreatitis than other breeds.

Pancreatitis may develop after an animal gets into the garbage or is offered a large amount of fatty leftovers from the thanksgiving dinner feast. Symptoms in dogs can include depression, loss of appetite, vomiting, or diarrhea. They may have a distended or painful abdomen which can cause restless behavior, panting or a resistance to lying down. Mild pancreatitis is harder to detect since the dog may just appear a bit reserved with a depressed appetite. If the pancreatitis is mild and chronic, he may seem cross and more aggressive than normal due to chronic pain and feeling poorly.

Cats with pancreatitis do not generally show obvious symptoms, but rather seem depressed or withdrawn, have a poor appetite and may have a fever and an elevated heart rate. They are not as likely to have abdominal pain or vomit. Prevention, as always, is the best course. Feeding a properly balanced, high quality diet with regular exercise is the key. Exercise improves digestion and helps keep your companion's weight under control.

The treatment of pancreatitis can vary greatly depending on the severity and duration of the illness. If the symptoms are severe enough to include vomiting or diarrhea, an immediate trip to the veterinarian is essential. Hospitalization will likely be necessary for the administration of fluids and monitoring of the animal's condition. As pancreatitis can also be very painful, pain management is an important consideration.

Mild pancreatitis is more easily managed at home, that is after a visit to your companions veterinarian for a proper diagnosis. After an initial, mild attack of pancreatitis you will likely be advised to withhold food for several days. Cats cannot be fasted as long as dogs, so they may need to be fed intravenously or through a tube in the intestine.

Light broths in small amounts may be permitted, along with distilled water offered frequently in small portions. This allows the pancreas to rest and begin the healing process. Food will be reintroduced gradually in very small portions in the beginning. The diet should be very low in fat and any foods the animal seems to react to should then be avoided. A home made diet is ideal for animals with pancreatitis.

It is often recommended to feed grains separately from meats, or not at all as the pancreas must produce different enzymes in order to digest different foods, so feeding simpler meals will ease the work of the pancreas. Animals prone to or recovering from pancreatitis should be fed more frequent meals with small portions rather than two larger meals each day. Food should be at room temperature for optimal digestion and less stress on the pancreas.

Digestive enzymes are a very important supplement for animals that have experienced pancreatitis, as are probiotics (NF Spectra). Antioxidants (Vetri Science Antiox and Cell Advance) and vitamins (Only Natural Pet Super Daily), such as selenium, A, B complex, C, and E may help the healing process and strengthen the pancreas. Essential Fatty Acids are recommended as well, even though they are higher in fat, EFA's can also contribute to healing and strengthening the pancreas.

The liver can be adversely affected by an attack of pancreatitis when the enzymes seep into the abdomen, and may also be stressed by the higher level of toxins in the system. Support of the liver with Milk Thistle (Only Natural Pet Liver Boost) may be useful for animals recovering from pancreatitis. Vaccinations should be minimized or avoided for any animal with pancreatitis. Diet changes should always be very gradual for animals prone to pancreatitis as well.

Separation Anxiety In Dogs

Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems that dogs develop. Its an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a state of intense panic brought on by the dogs isolation or separation from her owner. In other words, when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly. Dogs are social animals, they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety.

There are a number of contributing causes to the condition:

Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you are going to go for particularly if you are going to be absent for long stretches of time. A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales

A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these shelter dogs have undergone significant trauma in their lives they have been abandoned by their previous owners and thus they have little trust that their new found owner.

Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet stores are a perfect example of this. They are usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age which is 8 weeks, and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog.

Neglect is the number-one cause of sepration anxiety for dogs. If you are absent much more than you are present in your dogs life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content.

The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive. Your dog will usually learn to tell when you are about to leave, she wll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving.

When you have left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors, an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you, chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until its raw, or pulling out fur or will engage in obsessive compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail chasing.

Upon your return, she will be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog. This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return by fuelling the dogs excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.

If you are behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know its tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless after all, she is so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? but in actuality, you are just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she is as happy as Larry when you return but, when its time for you to leave again, her now exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door. Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dogs tendency towards anxiety.

Here is a short list of what to do:

Do exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out, the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if youare leaving for work in the morning, she will probably be by herself for at least four hours and, if you have got a dog walker to take her out mid day instead of coming back yourself, she will not see you, the person she really cares about for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here, before you walk out that door. More is even better.

Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew, why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes so they go nice and hard and crunchy and so she can not smear marrow all over your furniture, slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It will keep her happy and occupied, and will act as a smokescreen for your departure.

When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station, classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it will calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she has got company. If at all possible, supply her with a view. If she can see the world going by, thats the next best thing to being out and about in it.

Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go, jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then without leaving sit back down and do not go anywhere. Do this until shes not reacting any more. When there are no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door and returning immediately, again doing this until there are no reaction. Gradually work up, gradually being the operative word here until you are able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her.

Do not act overtly sympathetic when she is crying. Although it sounds very cold hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do. Its essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can not tell that you feel sorry for her, do not ever say, its OK, good girl when she is upset.

If you are interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dogs separation anxiety, you might like to check out SitStayFetch. Its a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dogs problem behaviors. All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there is a great section on obedience commands and tricks too.
You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on this link: Sit-Stay-Fetch

Affectionate, Disconcerting or Just Plain Disgusting?

For us humans, it can be a bit difficult to identify with the doggie habit of licking one another in greeting. We don't do it, after all, and though our tongues come in handy for things like ice-cream eating and sucking that last dollop of peanut butter off the knife, we certainly wouldn't welcome a visitor into our home by giving them a long, lingering lick on the cheek (unless you were brought up to embrace certain social mores currently unheard of in Western society).

Dogs use their tongues to explore the world. A dog's tongue is as important and useful to him as our eyes and hands are to us. It's a multi-purpose utility tool, used to taste things, explore the presence of new people and animals, express submissiveness, and to let you know that he values your companionship and friendship.

Licking is a completely natural behavior for dogs, and most of the time, the experience isn't something to worry about: the odd lick from a warm, moist tongue on your hand or ankle is, at worst, tolerable and, I must admit, I actually find it pretty adorable when my dog licks me but then again, he's trained not to overdo it, so I don't have to worry about the smothering capacities that a 100-pound male Rottweiler's tongue possesses.

Some dogs just take things too far though, and this is where problems can set in. It's not pleasant to be persecuted in your own home by a far reaching, agile, mobile, and slobbery tongue. Some won't let you get a moment's rest, but will pursue you from bedroom to hallway to lounge to kitchen, making sporadic dive-bombings of affection on your toes, ankles, calves anywhere that flesh is exposed and available. And for a tall dog, the available terrain is much more varied, and thus, enticing - ever had a long, wet dog's tongue lathering your bellybutton as you stretch up to those elusive top shelves? When unexpected, the resultant shock is more than a trifle unbalancing!

Plenty of dogs won't restrict themselves to your skin alone, either, and owners of these dogs will attest to the always-visible consistency of dog saliva on clothing: whether your outfit is black, white, or any of the myriads of shades in between, there's nothing like a viscous patch of dog slobber on a freshly-laundered hemline to advertise your ownership status and your dog's personal level of demonstrativeness to the world at large. And once it's dried, it's there 'till the next laundry run. The physical evidence of a dog's friendship is like egg white. It's there, it's dried on, and it's not coming off until a combination of suds, hot water and vigorous effort is applied.

And all this because your dog wants to say, I love you.

But there's often a bit more to it than just plain affection. As with all animal behavior, the logic behind licking is usually more complex and subtle than you might think, and the same gesture can have multiple meanings dependent on circumstance, your dog's state of mind, and the other behaviors being exhibited at the same time. So, although we can postulate until the cows come home or until your dog stops licking whichever comes first. as to why your dog's licking you, such generalizations aren't always 100% accurate: it's partly up to you to determine the reasoning behind the actions. And, since you know your dog better than anyone else, you're the ideal candidate for the job.

If your dog is licking you because he's feeling affectionate and wants to let you know, it'll be pretty easy to figure out whether this is the case or not. His body language will be relaxed, and although the circumstances will be variable, the surrounding mood will generally be stress-free and happy: for example, when he licks you on the shoulder or ear from his vantage-point in the backseat as you're driving him to the park, or lathers your hands and wrists with goodwill and devotion when you return home from a hard day at the office. Puppy love is by far the most common cause of licking: it isn't anything to worry about, and it's simple to cure him of the habit if the behavior is a problem for you. We'll get to that further down the page.

Another not infrequent reason for repetitive, owner targeted licking is that your dog's feeling anxious and stressed. If there are things happening in your dog's life to cause him unhappiness or tension, he'll often show it through obsessive compulsive behaviors, and licking is a pretty common manifestation of these. Some dogs will lick themselves, others will lick you, it's really a case of individual preference.

It shouldn't be too hard for you to pinpoint the cause of your dog's less than relaxed mindset. Is he getting enough attention and mental stimulation, or is he cooped up inside for long hours each day by himself? Does he get enough exercise and outdoors time for sniffing, exploration, and general exuberant tomfoolery? Do you pay him lots of attention when you're at home, or tend to greet him hurriedly before rushing off to your next commitment?

These are all things that you'll need to consider, before adapting your lifestyle to address the issue accordingly. Depending on the circumstances surrounding the licking, and the overall quality of your dog's life, you may need to make some general adjustments of your own to ensure that, when the licking does stop, it's because you've treated the cause, not the symptoms - otherwise, you're just trying to take away a valuable outlet for his negative emotions, which is unrealistic (and unfair on your friend, too).

Perhaps you need to come home more often during the day. Perhaps you need to get up half an hour earlier in the morning to give him a more substantial pre-work walk (it varies from dog to dog, but as a general rule of thumb, most dogs function best and are at their most relaxed with an hour and a half's exercise each day). Or maybe you just need to spend more time with him in the evenings, playing, grooming, training, and just hanging out together.

Make sure you're paying attention to his demeanor (does he seem content?) and his activity levels before you try to get rid of the licking behavior as a stand-alone problem: even though he can't talk, he can still use his tongue to try and tell you something, and this might be what's happening here. Having said that though, most of the time excessive licking is simply due to excessive exuberance in your dog. He's happy, he loves you, and he has to let you know right now.

When you want to get the point across that his licking's getting a bit too much for you, a simple change in your body language will convey your message loud and clear. All you need to do is withdraw the outward display of your affection for him to understand that, actually, you don't like it when he covers your skin in a composite of saliva, dog-food particulate matter, scraps of debris from his fur, and general oral-cavity detritus.

In plain English, this means that you just have to turn yourself away from him: when he starts to lick, get up and move away instantly. Make sure your face and eyes are dramatically averted from him: face in the complete opposite direction. Preface this with a revolted-sounding "No!" if you like (I say "No lick!" but you can use whatever comes naturally. Just keep the phrase short and easily-identifiable so your dog quickly learns to recognize it).

At this point, he'll probably get up and follow you. Wait for him to do so: the licking should start again soon. When it does, repeat the process. Withdraw all signs of affection from him again: turn away, get up and leave, and don't pay him any attention or talk to him (apart from another "No!" in adisgusted. I can't believe you haven't got the message yet tone of voice.

It's likely that your dog will be persistent. He's not to be easily deterred; you're the undisputed centerpiece of his life, after all, and he needs to let you know this whenever the opportunity should present itself. You just need to outmatch him in persistency. Be consistent with your actions, and the message will sink in. Don't feel that you have to shout or react negatively,the simple withdrawal of your love or the appearance of this, anyway is quite enough.

A word of warning, some people really like it when dogs lick them, even if the dog concerned is not their own. If visitors to your house (or admiring passersby on the street) greet your dog and allow him to lick them, you'll need to intervene or else they'll undo all your good work. It's best if you can explain ahead of time that you're training him not to lick, and then explain the appropriate response for them to take if he should start to lick them. This way, you can be sure that your dog's not going to be corrupted into unwanted behaviors again - and that he'll learn to express his affection in other, more desirable ways.

For more information on licking and other problematic dog behaviors, you'll probably want to check out Dog Obedience Training Zone. It's a comprehensive, A-Z manual for the responsible dog owner, and deals with just about every canine behavior and training technique under the sun, from aggression to digging to whining to dog whispering to obedience work.

Kidney Failure In Dogs

Kidney failure (also known as chronic renal failure) is often a disease of the older dog or cat. The disease can be a symptom of aging or can be caused by a defect in the kidneys that caused the animal to have failure at a younger age. Chronic nephritis, a long-standing infection of the kidney, can cause damage over the course of time to result in kidney failure. Infections, like urinary tract infections, or fungal infections can also cause kidney failure as can trauma to the kidney area (from being hit by a car) or cancer, among other illnesses. Toxins and poisons, like anti-freeze, can also cause kidney failure. Even some medications meant to help a pets health might cause kidney failure.

Signs of Kidney Failure

One of the clearest, most obvious signs of kidney failure is increased thirst. This sign is followed by the next most obvious sign of kidney failure-increased urination. The kidneys are unable to retain the right amount of water, so the dog keeps urinating his fluid out, but is thirstier because his body is losing the water he needs. Other signs may include vomiting, fever, and loss of appetite, among others.

Treatment for Kidney Failure

The veterinarian will diagnose your dog or cat with kidney failure following urinalysis and blood tests. From those tests, he or she can determine how well the kidneys are functioning. Depending on the cause, the pet may require medication. Because of the nature of kidney failure, the kidneys will not get better.

The goal of treatment is to keep the pet comfortable and help his body cope with the reduced kidney capacity as long as possible. Treatment may include diet changes to help reduce the load on the kidneys. Specialty diet formulas are made specifically for pets with kidney failure, and those diets may have reduced protein. Canned food is often recommended over dry food to increase more fluid intake.

Because some pets lose their appetite with kidney failure, making the food more appetizing might be encouraged, such as warming the food. Other treatment may include fluid therapy where the animal is hydrated by injecting fluid under the skin. Vitamins, electrolytes, minerals or fatty acid supplements may be recommended to make up for all those necessary nutrients that are being lost.

Other, more aggressive treatments are available to pet owners including kidney transplant or dialysis. However, such treatments are often unaffordable for most pet owners. Depending on the cause and treatment, some pets can live for months, even years, with kidney failure.
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