Olde English Bulldogge- Breeding, History, and Care of a Bulldogge

Originally bred as a working dog to corral and bring a bull to the butcher, there are references in history to the bulldog as far back as Roman Time (395AD to 404AD). The Roman Claudian who describes a dog as "The British Hound that brings the bull's big forehead to the ground"

(from "The New Complete Bulldog" by Colonel Bailey C Hanes)

But the first time the name Bulldog is used was in 1209 in "The Survey of Stamford".

"William Earl Warren, Lord of this town in the reign of King John (1209), standing upon the walls of his castle at Stamford, saw two bulls fighting for a cow in the castle meadow, till all the butchers dogs pursued one of the town bulls, which maddened by the noise and multitude, ran through the town. This so pleased the Earl that he gave the castle meadow (where the bull's combat began), for a common to the butchers of the town, after the first grass was mowed, on condition that they should find a mad bull, on a day six weeks before Christmas for the continuance of that sport forever."

Thus began "Bull Baiting" and such sports in England. Anyone who has read about the sport of Bull Baiting is conscious of its extreme cruelty. But from this we can gather that the original Bulldog had to be a very ferocious animal. Beauty and Symmetry of form were in no way desirable, the appearance of the dog counting for nothing. The extraordinary courage possessed by these dogs is hardly believable. Bred from a long line of fighting ancestors, they grew to be so savage, so courageous as to be almost insensitive to pain, while retaining enough intelligence and discipline as to be controllable. This was the Bulldog of British sporting days.

Then came the year 1835, when dog fighting as a sport became illegal in England. To all intense and purposes, therefore, the Bulldog had outlived its usefulness; his days were numbered. However, there were dog lovers who felt a deep disappointment at the passing of so fine a breed. They set themselves the task of preserving it. Though ferocity was no longer necessary to be desirable, they wished to retain all the dogs other splendid qualities. With this idea in mind, they proceeded to eliminate the undesirable characteristics and to preserve and accentuate the finer qualities. The result is the modern day Bully Breeds.

The history of the Bulldog tell us much about the desired physical traits of the Bulldog of old. These are the same traits still found today in the Olde English Bulldogge.

Wide thick muscled shoulders with powerful hind quarters for the strength to hold a full grown bull.

Deep wide chest and shortened snout (but not too short) with a tilt back, for breathing capacity.

The furrow between the eyes and rope like wrinkles leading down each side of the snout to let moisture run away from the eyes.

Short, thick legs with a wide stance and large paws; allowing the best traction possible

Wide rounded head with widely spaced eyes for range of vision

Short thick coat with extra skin, giving the appearance of wrinkles; also allowing protection from muscle damage

Off set, "undershot", jaw; in the past allowing for a tighter bite with more strength; now often used to smile with charm

Total loyalty; Also used in the past by Lords and Ladies to protect their money pouch, by tying their valuables to the bulldog of old's collar. The breeds total loyalty to the owner allowed only the owner to obtain the valuables from the dog.

We believe the Olde English Bulldogge given their agility, size and intelligence is the best culmination of those physical traits with the added wonderful temperaments they have now been bred for.

As we know English Parliament outlawed bullbaiting in 1835, Bulldog lovers turned to dog shows. 1864 the first club organized specifically for "the perpetuation and improvement of the old English Bulldog" was organized. Two of the most famous and influential Bulldogs of the time were Rosa and Crib owned by H Verelst. The painting of this famous pair hangs in the offices of The Kennel Club in England to this day.

By 1891 what the Bulldog standard type should be was a great controversy. Two very different "looks" of the Bulldog was common. In one corner was King Orry, a Bulldog of the old type - higher on leg, lighter in bone but very athletic with good head type. And in the other was Dockleaf, a smaller, low stationed dog of great bone that would not look out of place in an English Bulldog competition today. Dockleaf was chosen by the judging to be the standard to follow and thus the modern day English Bulldog had it's standard to follow. But the issue did not end there. The owners of the two dogs fell into a heated discussion as to which dog was the most physically able, a challange was issued and the famed "Bulldog Walk" came to pass.

The two dogs were to walk ten miles. Both Dockleaf and King Orry set off gamely but Dockleaf fell by the wayside at only two miles. While King Orry finished the ten mile walk in great style. Proof of the healthy athletic ability the Bulldog of old embodied.

But, fanciers of the time decided not upon the winner of this challenge, King Orry, but declared the future of the Bulldog was Dockleaf. This choice was made for form not function. The modern day English Bulldog would not have evolved as it has with all it's faults and failings with out this decision.

Although the breed no longer had the need to perform the task of bullbaiter, the Bulldog (in our opinion) should still be a dog of great strength, stability, vigor and health. This is what we try to accomplish by bringing back the Bulldog of old. The dog who like King Orry, is capable.

Photo: Rosa and Crib by Abraham Coop
Note the far from different look these Bulldogs had compaired to the modern day English Bulldog. Rosa and Crib by today standards appear to be closer to the Olde English Bulldogge.

We have been breeders for 30 yrs now and have raised a number of different "bully breeds" from the mastiff to the bulldog. Unsatisfied with their health issues, in some cases their temperment, and in some cases the bad reputation others have given breeds such as Staffordshire Terriers we started looking for a breed that encompasses all the good traits and leaving the bad behind. We then met Greg Hermes and the Olde English Bulldogge. Love at first sight just does not seem to cover the instant attraction. We immediately made the decision to specialize in raising only the Olde English Bulldogge and have never regreted it.

They continually amaze and amuse us. Between their intelligence and gentle attitude with children, and their "tough guy" look and expressive faces every Bulldogge is unique.

Our Dogface Olde English Bulldogge pedigrees include original Hermes lines, descended from well known Hermes and Greenly's Dams and Studs. Hermes Dio, Jumbo, Jamie, Tonka Truck, Tank in addition to Greenly's Lucy, Lexus and General Lee are a among the well documented foundation stock our Dogface's can be traced to.

The Olde English Bulldogge as a breed has come a long way during the last 3 decades and has started to gain acclaim and acknowledgement as a pure bred animal both in the United States and Europe. Their overall health has improved vastly from their English Bulldog counterparts. Better breathing, better bone and hip structure while retaining many of the great qualities that make them part of the bulldog breed. Cancer risks have been nearly elliminated and eye issues are all but gone.

We as a professional breeder follow the same scientific considerations as those founding Olde English Bulldogge breeders with careful attention to health and temperment first followed by shape and form.

A Breed Standard is the ideal by which any particular breed in measured. The goal being to come as close to the breed standard as possible with out comprising the health or welfare of the dog or breed. In our experienced opinion the best breed standard listed for the Olde English Bulldogge is the International Olde English Bulldogge Association Breed Standard.

Head : Large and high, moderately sunken between the eyes (medial furrow).
The circumference of the head should be equal to or greater than the dog's height at the shoulder. A narrow head or one that appears too small for the body is a fault.

Ears : Rose ears set well on the sides of the head are preferred. Dropped ears are acceptable as long they are small, not "hound like". Full pricked ears that stand up on top of the head should be considered a serious fault.

Muzzle : Broad, deep and short with moderate wrinkling. The bite is undershot with the bottom jaw turning up noticeably. Lower canines should not protrude. Muzzle too long (more than 3 inches), scissor bite or even bite are disqualifying faults. Muzzle should be no shorter than 1 ½". Wry jaw is a disqualifying fault.

Eyes : Wide apart and of moderate size. Any color is acceptable. However, odd eyes (one dark, one blue or light) should be considered unpreferred. Misshapen or bugged eyes are a serious fault. Lacking pigment around the eyes is undesirable. Crossed eyes or non-symmetrically shaped eyes are a disqualifying fault.

Nose : Broad with open nostrils (nares) with no sign of air restriction. The nose should not be pushed up between the eyes. From the stop to the end of the nose must be at least one and one half inches. The nose should be a solid color. Lacking pigment is a serious fault. A nose lacking all pigment is a disqualifying fault.

Neck : Short to medium in length and very muscular flowing into the shoulders and should not be set on the dog so it appears to stop at the shoulders.

Chest : Ribs should be well sprung (rounded) and the chest wide and deep.
Depth of chest should be at least to the elbows.
A hollow or narrow chest (slab sided) should be considered a serious fault.

Back : Males should appear square and balanced. Females should appear similar with consideration given for body length. Short with a very slight rise from the shoulders to a slight drop in the croup is preferred. A level back is acceptable as long as the tail does not come straight off the top of the back.

Shoulders : Shoulders should be well laid back with significant angulations to allow for good movement. Straight shoulders are a fault.

Legs : Forelegs should be straight and wide apart, neither bowing out nor turning in. There should be significant bone substance. Elbows should be relatively close to the body. Lacking bone and substance is very undesirable. Elbows that are loose or "fiddle fronts" are a disqualifying fault. "East / West" forelegs are a serious fault.

Rear legs should exhibit significant bend of stifle so to allow for good movement.
They should be well muscled. Straight or "posty" rear legs are a serious fault.
Cow hocks are a disqualifying fault.

Movement : Dogs should have a balanced gait that drives off the rear and is complimented by reach allowing the dog to cover ground with a sense of power.
Dogs should single track. Pacing or crabbing is a serious fault.

Feet : Round, tight both front and rear, and the pasterns should be strong.
Weak pasterns and/or splayed feet are disqualifying faults.

Height : Males - 18 to 20 inches at the shoulder. Females - 17 to 19 inches at the shoulder.

Weight : Between 50 to 70 lbs. for females and 65 to 85 lbs. for males. Although height and weight above the standard is to be discouraged, there is no penalty as
long as the dog is well proportioned, otherwise correct and balanced.

Color : Any color, except merle, is acceptable with no preference for one over another. The coat is short. A wavy coat or a long coat is a disqualifying fault. There should be no signs of feathering on the legs or neck area, also a disqualifying fault.

Tail : A pump handle tail that naturally reaches the hock is preferred, screwed short
or a docked tails are acceptable. The pump handle tail should be carried low and not over the back of the dog.

Temperament : Disposition should be outgoing and happy. While a watchful nature may be expected at home, human aggression without provocation is a disqualifying fault.

Early care and sound breeding is vital to the longevity of your Olde English Bulldogge. It is of the utmost importance that the dog you select has had every oportunity to begin life stable and sound. The only way you can be assured of this is to go directly to a breeder who has consistently produced dogs of this breed over many years.

Never hesitate to ask the breeder you visit or speak to any questions or concerns you might have. And expect them to ask questions of you also. Good breeders are just as interested in placing their puppies in a loving and safe environment as you are in obtaining a happy healthy puppy.

The purchase of any purebred dog entitles you to some very important documents.

Health and Inoculation Records, since breeders and veterinarians follow different approaches to inoculations it is important that the health record accurately lists which shots have been given and when. In this way the veterinarian you choose will be able to continue on the appropriate inoculation series as needed.

Pedigree: The pedigree is your dog's family tree. This document should show your puppy's ancestors back to at least the third generation. This will show that all of your puppy's ancestors were in fact registered Olde English Bulldogges.

Registration Certificate is the equivalent of your puppy's birth certificate. This certificate shows proof of owner ship once transfered from a breeder's name into your name. We encourage all our puppy owners to register their puppy.

Health Guarantee: Any reputable breeder is more than willing to supply a written agreement when you purchase your Olde English Bulldogge. This is usually contingent upon passing a veterninarian's examination. Ideally you should arrange an appointment with you veterinarian right after you pick up you new puppy, but this is sometime not possible. An appointment with in the first week should be made.

Consumer Rights: Many states require a breeder give you a copy of the current Consurmer Rights information reguarding pets. Consumer Rights protects both you (the consumer) and the breeder in times of disputes. If you do not receive a copy of the Consumer Right please ask, or find the information online thru the State website.

Meeting Dam and Sire: You should be able to expect to meet the dam of your puppy. This will give you the opportunity to gage the size and temperement your new puppy should have. While being able to meet the sire is also a plus for the same reason, a breeder may not own or have the sire readily available for you to meet. This is not unusual.

Other than the general dog care, exersise and training all breeds need there are a few things we recommend that is more breed specific.

Don't allow a Bulldogge to jump down from a height higher than their shoulders until 8 months of age or so. An Olde English Bulldogge is naturally built to have a heavier front end, a jarring landing during the growth period can be hard on young joints.

Due to the skull and ear structure of an Olde English Bulldogge, they can tend toward ear yeast infections during wet seasons. General ear care is important in preventing this. Clean your Olde English Bulldogge's regularly and after a bath or swim.

Due to the heavy muscle mass Olde English Bulldogges naturally carry, "swimming" for them is more like wading and many will simply sink in deep water. If you wish to enjoy the water with your Bulldogge check the area out for hidden drop offs and debris to help keep him/her safe.

Olde English Bulldogges have a natural underbite whith very strong jaw muscles. Keep a close eye on your Olde English Bulldogge dog toys for wear and tear so he/she does not swallow something. Kong Toys and Jolly Balls seem to last well, old croquet balls work well also.

Bones and Rawhide can be dangerous to an Olde English Bulldogge, again due to their jaw strength. Both can cause internal issues and injury.

While an Olde English Bulldogge can handle the heat and cold much better than many of their English Bulldog counterparts caution should still be taken on hot summer days - make sure frequent stops for rest in a shaded area are planned for, and plenty of water is available during family outings. Olde English Bulldogges love to have fun and will not necessarily stop running and playing with out your insistance, watching for signs that your Bulldogge has had enough, such as panting heavier than normal, starting to slow down but doggedly continueing to play, stopping for a rest and drink is important to prevent heatstroke.

Your Olde English Bulldogge does not require a 5 mile jog, but he/she does need good regular exercise, this is not your "Couch Potato Bulldog".

Olde English Bulldogges mature very slowly. While some breeds are mature at 12 months and most at 24 months the Olde English Bulldogge is approaching 36 months of age before considered mature. Olde English Bulldogges go through growth periods in spurts. Parts of the anatomy seem to develop independently of each other so that a puppy may look one way today and still another the following week. The little "tank" may take on the look of a "space rocket" practically over night. Do Not Despair. Eventually your puppy will revert back to what it gave promise of at six to eight weeks of age.

The phrase "Stuborn as a Bulldog" was not coined out of thin air. And an Olde English Bulldogge is no exception. Your Bulldogge will want to please you, this is part of their charm. But you have to help them understand just what you want them to do and then sometimes it still may be on their own time. While they are very intelligent, training your Olde English Bulldogge will take patients, consistancy in command from all in the family, and practice, practice, practice.

Always walk your Bulldogge prior to any training exercise you are working on whether at home or in a training class. This will help bring your Bulldogge's energy and state of mind to levels best for training. Calm and attentive is what you are looking for. Puppies have short attention spanse so training is best in short intervals, and keeping the session calm but fun for both of you will help. Lots of praise when good, repeat the exercise when your bulldogge doesn't quite "get it".

The Olde English Bulldogge is also very much a creature of comfort. If you let them on the bed once, they will feel justified to be there when ever they want. Your chair or sofa is no exception. Decide early on what you will allow and stick to it, always.

The typical Bulldogge likes to be "Boss Dog". They are strong willed as a breed in general. Making sure you Bulldogge knows you are "Top Dog around here" is important and basic. Walking in and out of your home in front of the dog as a leader of the pack would, is very simple but in the dogge world sends a strong message. "I lead - you follow"