Dremel Carving Your Pumpkins Made Easy!

To those of you that don't know what a Dremel is, think of it as a handheld drill (known as a rotary tool) that can be used with a variety of different bits to carve, etch, cut, sand, polish, etc. There are quite a few different models made by Dremel, including one especially for pumpkins. They are a very functional tool for all sorts of projects and very easy to use, which I believe justifies their use on pumpkins.

Using a power tool on a pumpkin might seem like overkill to some, but when used properly the results can be quite amazing. Not only does it open up the door for more intricate patterns and greater level of detail, but it also allows you to cut your carving time in half so you can carve even more pumpkins. Imagine being able to have twice the amount of pumpkins on your doorstep. Every year people are amazed with my pumpkins. I've even had people take pictures of my creations on their camera phones.

Dremel carving is different from your standard carving methods because instead of cutting out pieces you are actually "peeling" off the skin of the pumpkin exposing the "meat". Think of it like pumpkin engraving. This creates a soft glowing effect and doesn't depend on certain angles to hide your light source. You can also create shading effects by varying the thickness of the pumpkin wall; the more you shave away the thinner the wall gets and makes for a much brighter glow.

Some people get really creative and actually sculpt their pumpkins. I once attempted to sculpt a veiny eyeball into an almost perfectly spherical pumpkin. I say attempted because I didn't properly secure the pumpkin and it rolled off the table, crushing the side I was working on. You can also combine the traditional method with dremel carving for even more creative ideas.

Before you go and buy your pumpkins you might want to decide on what you are going to be carving in each of them. This way you know what size pumpkins to look for. In fact, I take my patterns with me when picking out my pumpkins. Also, it's a good idea to knock on the pumpkin with your knuckles to get an idea of how hollow it is. The more hollow it is the less scraping of the walls you'll have to do. However, if you plan on sculpting you may want to go for a thicker walled pumpkin to give you plenty of material for your masterpiece.

Picking out your pattern is completely up to you, but until you get the hang of using a dremel, try it out with something simple. Zombie Pumpkins has a great selection of patterns. They do charge a small one time fee, but you get unlimited access to 158 (and counting) patterns. In my opinion they are priced quite fair and are a better deal than buying the books that have the same patterns every year. If you decide to freehand your pattern it is still a good idea to draw it out on your pumpkin first using a sharpie.



Of course you'll need a Dremel if you don't already own one. Almost any style of rotary tool will work, but the best ones are the variable speed models. Dremel makes a model specifically designed for pumpkin carving. It has two speeds (6,000 and 12,000 rpms), runs off of four AA batteries and comes with a cutter bit and 10 carving templates. Personally I use the Dremel Stylus because it has more speed settings (5,000 to 25,000 rpms). It is also rechargable and has an ergonomic shape to it, with multiple ways to hold it to suit your needs.

If you need bits the best ones to use are the high speed cutter bits. The round ones seem to work best, but I also like the cone shaped bits to create a uniform depth and also for jagged corners. I mostly use an engraving bit for outlining the pattern and then go over the rest with a 1/8 inch or similar.

Always remember safety first when carving your pumpkin. Safety glasses are a must, unless of course you like little liquified globs of pumpkin hitting you in the eye. Now is a good time to mention that this procedure is probably best performed outside since it gets a little messy. Also remember to remove any jewelery and secure long hair and loose clothing. You don't have to wear gloves, but if you want to keep a better grip on everything I recommend the dishwashing style, since they have some texture to grip through the slippery pumpkin guts.

You'll also need a few basic essentials:

• Newspapers (it gets a little messy)


• Paper towels


• Permenant marker


• Stitching needles (a dozen or so)


• A push pin


• Knife (even a sturdy pumpkin knife will do)


• Sponge


• Scooper/scraper (a bit metal cooking spoon works well)


• Water


• Garbage bag (for the guts, unless you eat 'em)


• Petroleum jelly


• Light source

A Quick Word On Illuminating Your Pumpkin
Candles do not work very well for this method of carving. They tend not to be bright enough and are prone to burning out due to no air circulation. I have tried many ways of making them work but its rather difficult. Your best bet is to use a pumpkin light or something similar.

Gutting And Scraping
First, you need to cut into your pumpkin to remove the guts. Using the knife, cut a hole around the stem or on the bottom, your choice, making sure to make the lid cork shaped so it doesn't fall in. Next, start scooping out the seeds and gunk and scraping the sides. Don't thin the walls yet, just get all the stringy stuff out and make the walls smooth.

Another little trick I use to help speed up the gutting process is the use of a power drill. I attach a slightly modified beater for an electric mixer to it and set it on high. After a few minutes I am almost able to literally pour the guts out of the pumpkin.

Transfer Your Pattern
There are quite a few different methods for transferring your pattern onto your pumpkin, but the method that I created is the easiest. Trace your pattern onto a sheet of paper towel with a marker. Then wet the side of the pumpkin (make sure its clean first) that you are going to carve with a sponge. Lay the paper towel pattern on the pumpkin and get it positioned how you want it. Next, soak the paper towel. This method allows your pattern to stick and form itself to the shape of your pumpkin. If you have some folds just straighten them as best as possible. Now take a push pin and poke holes along the pattern about a quarter of an inch apart. Try not to leave any parts "unpoked". If the towel starts to dry just soak it again, being careful the pattern doesn't shift. Once you finish, remove the pattern and connect the dots with your marker. Keep a copy of the pattern handy for reference.

Start Dremeling
Using one of the smaller cutting bits, start tracing around the lines of your pattern with the dremel on a setting of about 10,000 rpms. Go slow and keep your hand steady, holding the dremel however is most comfortable for you. Don't go too deep, cut just enough to remove the skin and expose the juicy part. Once you have outlined it you can begin shaving away the rest of it. Switch to a bigger bit and wipe away any gunk on the surface with a damp sponge and dry it off with paper towel. Start at a corner or edge of your outline and slowly shave away the skin, making sure to keep a uniform depth throughout. Don't worry if its not smooth, it doesn't need to be perfect. Continue removing the skin throughout your pattern, switching size of bits when necessary. Also make sure to occasionally wipe away the gunk that will accumulate. Once you are finished with your pattern it's time to thin the walls.

Thinning The Walls
Your patience may wear thin in this process as well, as it is very tedious. Take the straight pins and push them half of an inch into the pumpkin in various parts of your pattern. Using your scraping tool, start scraping away at the wall being careful not to gouge out chunks. Keep scraping until you notice any of the pins moving. If a pin moves it means your wall is plenty thin and move on to a different section of the wall until you've reached the proper thickness throughout. Don't keep going until each pin moves, again it doesn't need to be perfect. Just move to a different part of the wall.

Now you need to test the thickness. Place your light source into the pumpkin and take it into a dark room. If it is dimly glowing or not glowing at all you will need to scrape the walls some more. Test it frequently to avoid scraping too thin. Once you are satisfied with it do any touchup work if necessary. Before you put it out for display you might want coat the area you shaved and the inside with petroleum jelly. Don't go too thick or else it just looks weird. This helps prevent it from drying out which effects how well it will illuminate.