Easy Dog Training Secrets

House training or Potty training is one of the areas of dog ownership that's most subject to misunderstanding, confusion, and just plain dread!

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Today's newsletter is going to deal with two of the most common problems surrounding the issue of house training:

- Submissive/excited urination

- Scent marking

Common house training problem #1: Submissive / excited urination

What is it?

A 'submissive urinator' is a dog that urinates on the floor and himself (and sometimes on you and any guests you may have!) in situations of extreme excitement or stress - like when you return home at the end of the day, or when he's being told off.

Why does it happen?


Puppies are the usual candidates for submissive/excited urination, but it's not uncommon to see adult dogs with the problem as well: usually, these are highly sensitive and timid dogs, and/or ones from a shelter/with a history of abuse (often these last two go hand-in-hand.)

Situations when an excited/fearful dog is likely to urinate:
- Greeting time after a prolonged absence
- Play time
- The arrival of guests
- Stressful situations at home, eg arguments
- During a correction (you're telling him off)
- Sudden loud noises (thunder, fireworks)

What can I do about it?

Fortunately, it's not difficult to "cure" your dog of his submissive/excited urination.

First of all, you should take him to the vet to make sure there's no medical reason for the issue (like diabetes or a bladder infection.)

Next, it's time to take control of the problem:

- Limit his intake of water to help him control his bladder more effectively. Don't restrict his water intake over a prolonged period of time, but if you know there's a situation coming which would normally result in urination - for example, you have guests coming over, or are planning on a play session soon - take his water bowl away for a period of time (maybe half an hour to an hour) before the event.

- When greeting your dog, keep it calm and mellow. The more excited he is, the harder it is for him to control his bladder, so don't encourage him to get worked up: ignore him for the first few moments, or give him a neutral "hello", a quick pat, and then go about making yourself at home.

For more information on how to successfully house train your dog (as well as a whole bunch of in-depth information on house training troubleshooting and related issues) you'll probably want to check out The Ultimate House Training Guide.

House training your dog / House training tips for a new puppy
When a new puppy arrives in the house, it's an exciting time for everyone. In order for the homecoming to proceed as smoothly as possible, it's a good idea to spend a little bit of time in preparation.

One of the major challenges of dog ownership (particularly for first-time owners) is the issue of house training. If you equip yourself with some rudimentary knowledge and a positive attitude, though, it's a lot easier than most people make it out to be


The New Arrival

As soon as you bring the puppy home, take her outside. The excitement of the car journey coupled with the unfamiliar faces, sights, and sounds will have her needing to go anyway - and if you can orchestrate her first toilet break so that it occurs outside, instead of inside, then so much the better. And not just from the perspective of short-term hygiene, either - the more your puppy relieves herself inside, the more likely she is to do it again.

The homecoming is a great opportunity for you to set a precedent for toilet behavior!

- Take her to your designated toilet area, and put her down on the grass.

- Wait while she sniffs around - refrain from petting her or playing with her just yet, because you don't want her to forge an association between this area and games. She has to learn that this part of the yard is for toilet breaks only.

- When she begins to relieve herself, say the phrase you want her to associate with toilet breaks: "Go pee" or "potty time" or whatever works for you. It's best if that phrase is short and easily recognizable - and use the same voice inflection each time, too (so that your dog can easily memorize the meaning of the phrase.)

- When she's done, make a big fuss over her: shower her in praise and affection, and give her a little treat.

When you take her inside the house, the house training regime you've decided upon should start immediately.

What is crate training?

Crate-training is essentially the use of a small indoor kennel (the crate) to confine your young puppy when you're not actively supervising her.

How does it work?

Crate training is based on all dogs' inherent dislike of soiling the area where they sleep. Because you're restricting your puppy's movement to her sleeping space, she'll instinctively "hold it in" until she's let out of the crate (provided you don't leave her in there too long, of course!)

This is why it's important that the crate is sized properly: if it's too big, she'll be able to use one end as a bed and one end as a toilet, which defeats the whole purpose!



How do I choose a crate?

As a general guideline, it's more cost-effective for you to choose a crate that's big enough for her to grow into. It should be big enough for the adult dog to stand up comfortably without crouching, turn around in, and stretch out - but no bigger (so that she doesn't choose one part as her bed, and one part as her toilet!)

Because the adult dog is likely to be considerably larger than the puppy, it'll most likely be necessary for you to use a barrier to reduce the internal size of the crate. A wire grille or board will do just fine.

Alternatively, you can use a cheap crate (or even make one yourself) and replace it with a larger model as your puppy grows.

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Using the crate for house training

Crate training works like this: your puppy is in that crate at all times unless she's sleeping, eating, outside with you going to the toilet, or being played with (active supervision.)

You'll need to be consistent, or else it won't work: you can't let your puppy wander off through the house unless you're focusing your complete attention on her.

If you allow her access to the house before she's thoroughly house trained, you're basically encouraging her to relieve herself inside - and remember, each time she does this, it'll be easier for her to do it again.

Sample schedule of a morning's crate training

7am: Wake up. Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
7.25: Breakfast time.
7.45: Back outside for another toilet break (accompanied by you, of course.)
7.50 - 8.45: Play-time! Puppy is out of the crate being actively played with, cuddled, etc.
8.45: Outside for another toilet break.
8.50 - 11: Puppy goes back in the crate for a nap
11 am: Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
11.05 - 12.30: Playtime! Puppy is out of the crate being played with and petted.
12:30: Lunch time.
12.45: Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
1 - 3.30: Puppy goes back in the crate for a nap and so on throughout the day.

Crate training generally takes one to two months (depending on the breed of your dog and how much time you spend on the training process.) As the puppy grows older, you can begin to reduce the amount of time spent in the crate - but beware of doing this too soon!

Other crate training rules

- Your puppy probably won't be too happy to go in the crate the first couple of times she uses it. She wants to be outside, being showered with affection and attention, and hanging out with you (of course!) But it really is for her own good - in a surprisingly short time, she'll come to accept the crate as her own personal haven where she can go to relax and get a couple hours' uninterrupted sleep. It's important to persevere: do not respond to any whining or crying.

- The best place for the crate to be is the hub of the household: usually the den or the kitchen, anywhere where people tend to congregate. Just because she's in the crate doesn't mean she can't still feel like part of the household; it's important for her not to feel isolated or excluded.

- The crate should be a welcoming, inviting place for her to go. Lay a couple of thick blankets or towels on the floor, and place a few toys and a chew or two inside it as well. The door should be invitingly open at all times (unless she's in there, of course, in which case it should be securely shut.)

Some toilet facts about puppies that will come in handy

- Puppies' bladders and bowels are so small and weak that they have only a very small window of opportunity between knowing that they need to go, and having that need become an immediate reality. Because of this, it's imperative that you take her outside as soon as she wakes up (she'll let you know she needs to go out by pawing the door and whining), and within ten minutes of eating or playing.

- Behaviors that indicate she needs to go outside include sniffing the ground and circling. Again, because she's only little, she won't exhibit these warning signs for very long - so as soon as she starts, take her out straight away. Better an unnecessary trip to the yard than an unnecessary wet patch (or pile) on the carpet!

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The maximum amount of time that a puppy can be crated at one time is figured out using the following equation: her age in months, plus one. So, a three-month old puppy can be crated for a maximum of four hours. However, this is likely to be physically pretty uncomfortable for her (not to mention hard on her emotionally and psychologically: it's tough being cramped up with nothing to do), so you should really take her out at least once every two hours during the day. If she's sleeping, of course, just let her sleep until she wakes up naturally.

For a more indepth look at house training, as well as a great deal of useful information on canine behavioral problems and the most effective training techniques, check out The Ultimate House Training Guide. It's the complete dog-house-training guide packed with audio and video to help you along.

How to choose a vet
Your vet is a pretty significant figure in your dog's life - and thus, in yours. Hopefully, you'll only ever need him or her for routine checkups and preventative procedures; but just in case, it's worth taking the time to develop a good relationship with a suitable vet, before you need their services.

This book is worth its weight in gold!




WHERE AT LOOK

Sure, you could just pick a vet at random from the Yellow Pages or from an Internet search; but having the right vet is crucial to your dog's health and happiness (and, presumably, this plays at least some part in your own happiness and peace of mind as an owner, right?)

Think about it this way: if you were trying to choose a doctor for yourself, would you be happy to just select one at random from an impersonal list?

Probably not. You'd want somebody who comes highly recommended - somebody you feel like you can trust.
Your vet isn't just your dog's doctor; he or she is also the dentist, manicurist, psychologist, and - hopefully! - a friend. When you roll all these things up into one, you can see why it's necessary to spend some time confirming that you've made the right choice.

The best place to start looking for a vet is by word of mouth. If you have any friends or relatives who take good care of their dogs, then that's a great place to start: ask them who they'd recommend, and why. This last one is particularly important, because everyone has different priorities: for example, perhaps they like their own vet because he/she is a specialist in their own particular breed; or they don't charge very much; or the clinic is only five minutes' drive %u2026 their priorities are not necessarily yours, so it's a good idea to make sure that your values coincide with the person giving the recommendations.
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Another great place to find a vet is through local training clubs (Schutzhund, agility, herding classes, police K-9 academies, etc.) These organizations are almost guaranteed to place a great deal of importance on high-quality veterinary care, because the health and well-being of their dogs is such a priority.

Once you've got a list of vets that you're interested in pursuing further, all you have to do is call up the clinic and explain that you're looking to find a regular vet for your dog(s): can you come in for a quick chat, introduce your dog, and have a look at the premises?

HAVE A LOOK BEFORE YOU NEED TO

Before you decide to align yourself and your dog with a particular clinic, test the waters first. Ideally, you want a chance to talk to the vet, and discuss his or her philosophies and approach to pet care.

This is really important. If your dog ever really needs vet-care (if there's an emergency, or if she needs an urgent short-term appointment), you want to be sure that you've made the best possible choice as far as her health and comfort levels are concerned. Neither of you should be subjected to any unnecessary extra stress at a time like that - and you can avoid a lot of grief by spending a bit of time in preparation.

THINGS TO ASK THE VET

While you're at the clinic, you'll want to be assessing your potential vet's overall attitude and approach to health care and animals; and you'll also probably want answers to some specific questions.




Here's a list of useful questions to help you on your way:

- How many vets are there on staff? If you need to make an urgent appointment, you don't want to be waiting around while precious minutes tick past. Ideally, there'll be at least two qualified veterinarians on hand (not just technicians or assistants.)

- What kind of testing and analysis capabilities does the clinic have If they have to send away to a lab for this kind of stuff, it means that the results are going to be delayed. If your dog is very sick, time is an important factor: it's best if the clinic has at least blood-analysis testing on hand.

- What after-hours services are available? A lot of clinics close the doors in the evenings and on weekends, which means that if there's an emergency, you'll have to go somewhere else - and subject your dog (and yourself) to an unfamiliar vet. (If you don't mind this, then that's fine; but be aware that in a high-stress situation when emotions are running high, it's reassuring for your dog and yourself to deal with someone familiar.)

- What's their price range? How are payments made? Is there a facility for payment plans in case of unexpected vet bills? The payment-plan option is particularly important. Even with pet insurance, vet bills can sometimes be astronomical - and not everyone has the resources to deal with large vet bills straight away. Ask the clinic how they cater for situations like that.

- How up-to-date is the staff with advances in the industry? Do the vet, the technicians, and the assistants attend seminars and workshops regularly? The field of medical care is always moving forward - responsible vets make the effort to keep up with the times, and see that their staff do, too.





MAKING THE RIGHT CHOICE

When you choose a vet, you're balancing convenience and quality. There's no right or wrong vet for you and your dog - which is partly why making the choice can be so confusing. There are lots of vets to choose from, and they're all different!

Even though it's tempting to go for the one right around the corner with the rock-bottom prices, it really is worthwhile taking the time to shop around. Your dog is utterly dependent on you for her healthcare - and if you take her seriously as a companion and member of the family, you'll want to do the best thing by her.

A good vet knows how to take care of you as well as your dog. The relationship that you have with your vet will hopefully be one that's based around a healthy mutual respect and positive synergy - there should be very little scope for misunderstanding. When the two of you see eye to eye, it makes caring for your dog that much easier.

FURTHER READING

For a complete survival guide on stress-free dog care, including detailed information on when your dog needs to see the vet, how to respond to pet emergencies, dog First Aid, and all common health problems, check out The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health. It's a complete handbook on dog health care, and teaches you how to take a proactive and prepared approach to knowledgeable dog ownership.

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