Everything You Need to Know about Making Candles

All information contained herein is intended for your general knowledge only. The information and recipes contained herein should not be considered a complete candle making resource and should not be used in place of accredited materials or instructions. The author and lens owner accepts no responsibility for any errors or omissions that may exist in any projects featured. Readers are advised to carefully read all instructions before attempting to undertake any projects featured here. As with any product, discontinue use immediately if you experience any adverse reaction. The use of materials should be based upon the customer's own investigations and appraisal. Supplies, handling and safety precautions must be observed in accordance with the information contained in all Manufacturer's/Supplier's Material Safety and Proper Usage Data Sheets.

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There are a few things that you will need to start making candles. Listed below are just the basics.

1. Wax
2. A place to heat the wax, like a stove for example
3. Something to heat the wax in, like a metal container
4. A thermometer
5. A wooden spoon
6. A mold (optional)
7. Something to use for a wick

Now, lets take a closer look at this list...
1. Wax - Sure you could buy some wax, or you could recycle wax that you have from old candles that you already have
*did you say that you want colored wax? Not a problem. You could either buy the color dyes from a specialty store or you could use some old crayons (the more you use the richer the color will be)(and don't forget about mixing the colors ex. red & blue make purple etc.)

2. A place to heat the wax, like a stove for example - Any kind of stove will do (gas, electric, wood). Even a hot plate will work as well as a fire pit outdoors with a grill over the top or a hanging container.

3. Something to heat the wax in, like a metal container - You could buy a special candle wax pouring container (which is sometimes offered along with other supplies for candle making) or you could use a large metal C.G.C. (Coffee Grinds Container) (cleaned out of course =P ) You could even use an old cooking pot or a metal teapot with a large enough opening for stirring (without the whistling spout of course!).
*using the C.G.C.method works best with a double boiler technique ex. You have a large pot filled with water which you place the C.G.C. with wax inside of. As the water boils it heats up the wax inside the C.G.C.

4. A thermometer - Some people use a candy thermometer, others use a special candle making thermometer, however, you could use any type of thermometer as long as it can give you high readings like 121° C (250° F).

5. A wooden spoon - Plastic spoons will melt and metal spoons will get very hot and could burn you OUCH!!

6. A mold (optional) - Maybe you just want to pour the wax into a jar or class container, or if you are planning to hand dip the candle, then you won't be needing a mold. However, you could either buy a mold specifically made for candle making, or you could use what you have at home. For ex. I just ate a Stonyfield O'Soy Strawberry yogurt. If I were to clean this plastic container out it would make a very nice votive candle mold. AND if I used the same yogurt container I could make a tealight candle as well by just filling up the bottom. EASY!

7. Something to use for a wick - You could buy a pre-made wick, or you could use a cotton string (you can usually find large bundles for sale which are very cheap)....maybe you could even use some types of yarn? let me know how that goes, I've never tried, but if you prime the yarn wick I bet it would work!

So, there you have it, these are the basics for getting started on the road to making your own candles. I do however urge you to read on as this page will cover more than just the basics and we will be discussing other helpful tools, techniques, and instructions that may aid and/or enhance your candle making endeavors.

Candle making is not a dangerous craft. Messy, most definitely%u2026dangerous, no - if a few common-sense rules are followed.

There are three primary areas of danger in candle making:

1. Dealing with wax - both in terms of fires, and in terms of burns
2. Using fragrance and/or essential oils which can be irritants or even toxic in concentrated amounts
3. Accidents, spills and such

Here are some guidelines to help keep your candle making safe, and your kitchen free from damage.

Prepare Your Workspace
No matter how quick your project is going to be, or how neat you usually are, always prepare your workspace. This includes:

* Covering your workspace with newspapers, a tarp or old tablecloth. (I like to get the picnic-table type tablecloths from the dollar store.)
* Keeping your workspace clean and organized. Have everything you are going to use readily at hand...and within easy and safe reach.
* Being prepared for spills - have a bunch of newspapers or several rolls of paper towels handy in case of spills.
* Having your fire extinguisher nearby and a heavy pot lid right at hand.
* Assembling all of your tools, molds, ingredients, additives and accessories before starting.

Work Slowly and Methodically

* Start by creating a safe workplace - make sure all children, pets or other inquisitive parties are not going to disturb your set up.
* Follow instructions or a project guide - especially if you are just learning a technique, or trying a new variation.
* Go slow! Mistakes happen when we rush.

Be Careful with Ingredients

* Measure and pour essential or fragrance oils carefully. They are very concentrated and many will eat through plastics, cause stains, and/or cause irritation on skin. Wipe up any drips immediately and wash your hands if you get them on your skin. And if you measure them ahead of time so that they're ready to pour (a very good practice,) be sure that they can't easily be knocked over or spilled while you're working. This, I know from experience.
* Be sure you understand the safety requirements of the fragrances and/or essential oils you are using and be sure you have a good understanding of essential oil safety
* Be careful with dyes and colors. Dyes, especially liquid dyes, while not toxic, can stain things quickly and powerfully. One or two drops of liquid candle dye can color a pound of wax. Imagine what it does to your nice white shirt. This, I also know from experience.

Melt Wax Safely

* Treat wax with respect. Yes, it's just a boring white block, but when it gets up to 180°, it can burn you very quickly. Also, wax won't boil to tell you it's hot. It just keeps getting hotter and hotter until it starts to smoke. (Of course, if you're melting your wax properly in a double boiler, this won't ever occur.)
* Always keep an eye on the temperature of your wax. Make sure you have an accurate thermomter nearby.
* Never leave melting wax unattended. Just don't. I mean it.

My definition of unattended:

* Measuring your fragrance oil while the wax is melting = OK
* Heating your molds in the oven or with the heat gun = OK
* Answering the phone if it's in the kitchen within sight of your wax = OK
* Answering the phone if it's in the other room = NO
* Going to the bath room = NO
* Putting your wicks into your molds or containers = OK
* Going to the other room to find the wicks so that you can put them in the containers = NO

Make sense? If you need to leave the room, just turn the burner off and make sure that nothing (or no one) will upset things.

So you see - nothing too scary. Following a few common sense rules will keep your candle making safe, and protect your kitchen.

(And remember that once you've made your candles safely, you'll need to burn them safely too.)

by David Fisher

Additives Anything added to wax to alter it's properties.

Bayberry Wax A natural wax that comes from berries on the bayberry bush. Bayberry wax has a nice natural scent, and it is slab a hard wax. It is a great wax to make taper candles with due to its hardness and scent, however it is very expensive.

Beeswax The honeycombs from beehives are used to make this wax. It is usually the "cap wax" which is the wax caps that the bees assemble on each individual cell of the comb to retain the honey. This was is removed by beekeepers to harvest the honey. It is one of natures gifts that makes the best candles of all, especially pillar candles, however, like bayberry wax it is very expensive.

Chatter Marks or Stuttering When wax is not hot enough when poured this can result. It appears as bubbles and lines in the candle.

Clear Crystals An additives that can increase a candles burning time. It also enhances the coloring added to wax, and raises its melting point.

Core The interior of a candle. Also can refer to the inside material of candle wick. They include cotton, zinc, paper, and sometimes lead, which should be avoided due to lead being toxic.

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Coreless Cotton Cotton wick that has no core. These are usually flat braided wicks used in taper candles.

Cored Wicks Wicks with a material inside to help keep it rigid while it burns in a pool of liquid wax. These wicks are commonly used in votive candles, jar candles, and pillar candles. The cores are either paper, zinc, cotton, or lead. Up until a few years ago lead was used in wick cores, however, due to health concerns lead cored wicks should Never be used!

Double Boiler A smaller pot placed into a larger one that contains heated water. This is generally considered to be the safest way to melt wax in the home environment, however, great caution should be used whenever melting wax.

Dye A liquid or powder that is used to color wax. Can also come in flake or chunk form mixed with a small amount of paraffin wax.

Essential Oils Different plant extracts that can be used to add scent to wax. These are usually diluted with a white oil or mineral oil to act as a carrier.

Jump Lines or skip lines Lines that form when wax is poured into a jar or mold that is cooler than the wax.

Flash Point The temperature at which vapor from heating wax will ignite. Great care should be taken to avoid approaching or reaching these temperatures when melting wax. The actual temperature depends on the type of wax, although it is usually around 350 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

Flat Braided Wick The wick used to make taper candles. It was a great innovation from the 1800's. Before flat braided wick was invented taper candles had to be "snuffed" to remove the carbon that built up on top of the wick as the candle burned. The flat braided wick is "self trimming" which means it breaks off as it burns preventing the carbon build up. This wick design also aids in the combustion process.

Floating Candle Any candle that is made to float on water.

Fragrance Oil An oil, usually mineral, that has a scent in it. Used to scent waxes.

Gel Candle A clear type of candle made from a gelled mineral oil.

Gloss Poly An additive that raises the melting point, hardens a candle, and can give a candle a shine if used in a smooth surfaced candle mold.

Hemp Wicking A wick made either entirely of hemp, or a wick that uses hemp as the core material.

Hurricane Candle A candle that is made with a high melting point wax as an outer shell that can either be filled with a softer wax or a votive or pillar candle.

Layering Pouring different layers of colored wax.

Luminaria Votive candle used in a sand-filled container for outdoor use.

Luster Crystals A wax additive which will brighten the coloring in wax, and raise the melt point of wax.

Melting Point: Temperature at which wax melts. Can vary from about 125 to 155 degrees Fahrenheit.

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Microcystalline Wax: A refined wax typically used for adhesion of objects to candles, or in candle repair. It also is used as an additive to parrafin wax to make in pliable for sculptor.

Mineral Oil Also called white oil, a clear oil used in candle making mainly as the carrier of scents.

Molded Candles Any candle that is made from pouring wax into a container of some shape or form.

Mold Release A wax additive that aids in the release of a poured candle. Can also be a spray that is applied to the inside of a mold to aid in release.

Mold Seal A clay or putty used to seal any space around a wick where it passes through a mold.

Mottling A surface effect on a poured candle that looks like snowflakes.

Mushrooming A condition where carbon forms at the tip of the wick on a burning candle. This condition is caused by using the wrong size wick, and sometimes by using some additives.

Overdipping When a color is desired on the outside of a candle but the core of the candle is clear, the process is called overdipping. This is the only way a pigment coloring can be used on a candle while minimally affecting the burning of a candle without clogging the wick.

Paper Core wick A wick with a cotton outside and paper inside. The paper core helps keep the wick rigid while immersed in a pool of liquid wax.

Palm Wax A hard wax that is derived from the palm tree. It has a high melting point. Used on its own or as an additive. When used as an additive it usually is in the form of palm stearic, a flaked or powdered additive.

Paraffin wax This is the most common wax used in candlemaking. It comes from the refining of petroleum.

Petrolatum, Petroleum Jelly Used to lower the melting point of waxes. Makes wax softer, used frequently by wax sculptors.

Pigment colors A coloring that is tiny particles that stay suspended in a candle to produce color. This type of coloring should only be used as an overdip color as the non-dissolved particle composition of them will clog a wick if used in the core of a candle.

Pillar Candles A molded candle that is usually intended to be used by itself.

Polyethylene An additive to wax that hardens wax and adds sheen when the wax is cast in a smooth surfaced mold.

Pouring Temperature The optimal temperature at which wax will produce the best finish and characteristics when poured into a mold. This temperature varies greatly dependant upon the type of wax being used, the size and type of mold, and various other conditions affecting the candle.

Scent Oil An oil that carries a fragrance used to add scent to a candle.

Slack Wax A lower cost wax with high oil content used mainly for jar candles.

Soy Wax or Soybean Wax Wax derived from the soybean. A clean burning wax that is usually harder than parrafin waxes.

Stearine, Stearic Acid Used to harden wax, and add opaqueness.

Taper Candle The classic candle made for hundreds of years. Through history these were made by dipping a wick into a vat of melted wax repeatedly, each time building another coat of wax increasing the candles thickness. During the past 200 years taper candles have sometimes been molded.

Tart A piece of scented wax used in a burner where a votive heats a pot in which the tart is placed, giving off its fragrance.

Tealight Candle Usually in a tin cup, it is a small, self contained candle that can be inserted into a holder.

Votive Candle A small molded candle used in a holder. Commonly scented and colored.

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Vybar 103 Added to wax to make colors more vivid and increase fragarence. Used for waxes with melting points above 130 degrees fahrenheit.

Vybar 260 Added to wax to make colors more vivid and increase fragrance. Used for waxes with melting points below 130 degrees fahrenheit.

Water Bath A container of water used to expedite the cooling process of liquid or warm wax.

Wax glue or sticky wax A microcrystalline soft wax used to adhere decorations or appliques to candles. Also used to repair broken candles.

Whipped Wax Wax which has been beaten or whipped in order to add air to it and make it lighter and more opaque.

Wick A bundle of fibers that is twisted or braided and delivers the molten wax of a Candle making terms to help the Candlemakercandle to the candles flame through the process of capillary action.

Wick Tabs A clip that holds a wick straight and at the bottom of a candle.

Zinc Core Wick Wicking with a zinc metal core. These are rigid wicks used mostly in jar candles.

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Listed below is a brief explanation of some different waxes that I would recommend using when you make your candles.

Paraffin Wax- a hard wax which can appear to be somewhat white and translucent. Paraffin wax comes out of the ground and is obtained from petroleum (it is a fossil fuel). This wax's melting point ranges from about 48° to 66° C (120° to 150° F). Paraffin wax is the most common wax to create candles with today and it is also one of the cheapest.

Beeswax- a soft, slow burning natural wax produced in the bee hive of honey bees. The color of this wax varies depending on purity (human tampering) and the type of flowers gathered by the bees, however, it is usually either a shade of white, yellow, or brown. Beeswax has a high melting point of 62 to 64 °C (144 to 147 °F) (when heated above 85 °C (185 °F) discoloration occurs). When a beeswax candle is burned more heat than any other wax candle is given off. Beeswax is naturally scented.

Soy wax- a partially-hydrogenated form of soybean oil. This wax is very soft and has a low melting temperature of approx 47°C (118°F). Soy wax has an off-white, opaque appearance. Its lower melting temperature can become a problem in hot weather;the candle can sometimes become deformed. Soy wax is best used in jars or other types of candle containers because of its low melting point and soft characteristics (i.e. tapered candles may bend when burning over long periods of time).

Palm wax- a hard, slow burning wax made from vegetables; mainly produced in Southeast Asia. The melting point of palm wax is 55°-58°C (131° - 136°F). A unique texture can be seen when the candle is made from the crystalline structure that is characteristic to this wax. Palm wax is very good at holding color as well as a scent from an essential oil.

Recycled wax- wax from old, used candles or worn out crayons. A special cleansing process must take place once the candles are melted to remove any debris (hair, bugs, burnt particles and pieces of wick for example).

Gel- Gel candles are made from oil. Wax candles are also made from oil, but the gel ones are a mix of 95% mineral oil and 5% polymer resin. Gel wax comes in three different types: high density, medium density, and low density. A big part of learning how to make gel candles involves learning the difference in available densities.You can add color, fragrance, and decorations to your gel candles. Use gel when you want something that is transparent. *All gel candles need to be inside a container.
While the basic steps of heating and pouring to create the gel candle are the same as you use with wax candles, the methods and candle making equipment required are a little different.Gel wax requires more heat than the other candle waxes to become flexible and, well, gel-like. You can turn to a multi-cooker to get this part of the process done. A multi-cooker is similar to a deep fryer. They are typically made of metal with a non-stick coating. The heating element is separate and has a temperature dial so you can get it to the precise temperature you need to melt the gel.

Whichever type of wax you choose to use is completely up to your own circumstances and personal preferences.

Priming a wick is essential to ensure that your candles will burn as they are intended.

Why?

In most of the cases, a wick is made of braided cotton yarns. As tight as the braid is, inevitably there will be some amount of air trapped in the wick. A wick works by absorbing wax from the candle and drawing it up through its fibers which helps to feed and maintain the flame. However, the first time a candle is lit, it takes some time before the flame reaches the level of the wax and some more time before the heat starts to melt the wax so that it can be drawn up inside the wick sufficiently enough to feed the flame. "Some time" and "some more time" put together can result in a relatively long time leading to an unsuccessful candle.

How?

A simple operation is sometimes necessary: before you set the wick in the mold, let the wick soak for a few minutes in the liquid wax (before adding any scent or other additives!!). You should notice that, after a few seconds, a noticeable quantity of air bubbles escape from the wick and float to the surface of the wax. Basically, you want the air that is present in the fibers of the wick to be replaced by wax so that right from the start the flame will find enough fuel inside the wick and not die out.

After about two minutes, fish the wick out of the wax. Let excess wax drip off of the wick back into your melted wax. Next, take one end in each hand and pull the wick tight. Let it rest on a piece of waxed paper and give it time to cool off completely. A freshly primed wick should be straight before it is allowed to cool off: it's almost impossible to fix afterward!

Priming your wicks also has another advantage: Once the air in your wick has been replaced with wax it will be much easier to insert your wick through the mold's wick hole. Less effort will also be required to keep the wick straight while pouring.

What You Will Need
Palm Wax
Wick
Wick Rod (used to tie the wick to; it firmly secures the wick in place as well as centering it)
Color Block (optional)
Fragrance (optional)
Wooden Spoon
Mold Sealant (putty used to cover the hole and the wick on the bottom of the candle mold)
Aluminum Candle Mold (Aluminum molds provide the best crystallizing results due to the slow cooling time.)
Double Boiler
Thermometer

Instructions

1. Before beginning, cover your entire work surface with newspaper. Candle making can be messy and this step will make cleanup easy.

2. Place the desired amount of wax in the double boiler. Completely melt the wax according to manufacture's instructions. Heat your wax to approximately 195-205 degrees F. (the higher you heat the wax, the more of a snowflake effect will show up in your candle). ALWAYS USE A THERMOMETER WHEN MELTING WAX AND NEVER LEAVE YOUR HEATED WAX UNATTENDED.

3. While your wax is melting, you can prepare your mold. Insert the wick into the hole on bottom of the mold from the underside of the mold. Thread it through the mold till you can pull it through from the top. Tie the wick to the wick rod which will lie across the opening of the mold. Pull the wick tight from the bottom of the mold and cut it about an inch away from the bottom. Secure the wick with a piece of the mold sealant. Be sure to seal the hole well so that the wax doesn't leak out of the mold and completely cover the wick. (press firmly)

4. When your wax has reached 200 degrees (or the manufacturer's recommended pouring temperature), add shavings of your dye block until you reach your desired color. Stir thoroughly with your wooden spoon.

5. Remove the wax from heat and add your fragrance. In general, you add a little at a time until you feel that the scent is to your liking. Stir thoroughly. Next, slowly pour your candle wax into your mold. Allow your candle to cool. Save about 25% of the wax to do a re-pour.

6. Sometimes, your palm candle will need a re-pour. When your candle has cooled over night, an air bubble may have formed. If so, reheat your palm wax about 5 degrees hotter than your original pouring temperature and then fill in the hole. Let this cool completely. There may also be a depression/dip that has formed on the top of your candle (this happens when the wax cools and contracts). After the wax that was used to fill in any holes has cooled, use the remaining wax to carefully fill in this depression making sure not to pour over the edge of the wax (do not pour too much that the wax flows in between the mold and the candle).

7. Allow your candle to cool completely and remove it from the mold.

Essential oils are something only nature could inspire. Considered the life-force in every living plant, essential oils contain the soul, or essence, of the plant - the odor, taste and therapeutic properties. Extracted from the root, bark, wood, seed, flower, fruit, and leaf of freshly harvested plants, essential oils contain the plant's powerful emotional and physical healing benefits - physiological and psychological effects that have been well documented for centuries and throughout the world.

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These essential oils are extracted from only superior quality plants, they are guaranteed to be 100% pure and natural - no oil is adulterated or diluted, and each one is exclusive and distinct. In addition to this wide selection of essential oils you will find plenty of Organic Essential Oils to choose from.

Deciding on what type of wax is best suited for your candle making project requires understanding the differences between all the available candle waxes that are available to the modern candle maker. With so many different types of candle waxes available, how do you know which one is going to be best for your project? Obviously it depends on the project itself. Each type of available candle wax has its pros and cons.

Experimenting with all the different types of waxes and wicks, the various scents, the many different color combinations, candle styles, and plethora of shapes and sizes is a large part of the fun when first learning how to make candles at home.

This site offers a 5-Part Candle Making Package E-Book for $37.00 (with a 100% money back guarantee) that you can download right away. It will also help those of you who are interested in learning how to start your own home-based candle making company.

The 5 parts:
"The Secrets to Successful Candle Making"
"Candle Making Fragrance Mixing Guide"
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Candle making at home today is much different than the necessity it once was many years ago. It used to be that making candles was nothing more than a basic requirement of every day life. One needed a candle in order to light their reading desk in a dark room, or if traveling after the sun had set, again, another candle was required to light the path home. Since then times have obviously changed.

Nowadays, long after Edison's advent of the incandescent, electric light bulb, candles continue to be made at home, but no longer is it merely out of necessity. Instead, they are artfully being crafted out of passion! Today people are making candles at home, not because they have to, but because candle making is an activity that they truly love doing. In fact, many people are finding that they love doing it so much that they are turning their new-found craft of candle making at home into full blown hobbies, and in many cases, even profitable home businesses!

Making candles is a wonderful pastime moreover if you do it by yourself you can put a little bit of your energy in every one.

First, you'll need to obtain the following supplies:

2-4 pounds of wax (for this I would suggest paraffin or beeswax)
Candle wick (a long cotton cord will work great)
essential oils (optional-for scent; beeswax is already scented)
candle dye (can be somewhat expensive) or crayons (for color) or a colored candle that you wish to recycle
wax paper
a wooden spoon
a double broiler (If you don't have one, Fill a large pot half full of water and set a large clean coffee tin to melt the wax in it, set inside the pot of water... I prefer this method as it doesn't mess up my double broiler!)
a pitcher of very cold water

Begin by melting the wax in a double broiler. Heat the water to boiling while you cut up your wax so it will melt quickly. Once the water is boiling, turn the heat down and place the tin of wax inside of it. Keep the water hot enough to keep the wax melted but not so hot that the paraffin catches fire (which it has been known to do over high heat).

While the wax is melting, stir with a wooden spoon & make sure it all is completely melted.

After the wax is completely melted, break the crayons or recycled candle, and/or candle dye and put them into the wax. Keep stirring until all of the crayons have melted and the color is even and smooth, with no streaks. Keep in mind that the candle will be a shade or so lighter when dry. The more crayons that you add the deeper and richer the color. Experiment!

Next add a few drops of essential oil at a time to the wax until it smells strongly of the fragrance intended. (max 10-20 drops; Experiment! Remember you can only add fragrance, you can't take it out)

Then stir the wax to mix the essential oil in evenly.

Now your wax is ready for the actual candle making.

Start with a long piece of wick - twice the size of your desired candle length plus 3 inches (you will be making 2 candles at once). Bend the wick in the middle and hold it by the bend. Dip the wick into the wax and then lift back out. Getting started is the hardest part because the wick will float on top of the wax until it has enough wax on it to weigh it down. Allow it to get completely cold between dipping when you first start.

After your candle has started to take shape you can speed up the process a little. I keep a pan of cool water nearby and dip the candles in the water after each dipping in the wax. While this speeds up the process a little, candle making is a slow process but very well worth the time and energy you put into it.

Keep dipping the candles and allowing them to cool & then dip again. When you have achieved the proper size, hang them to dry until the wax has set but the candles aren't too hard. Then roll them on the wax paper to smooth out the shape. Once the candle shape is too your liking, dip 1 or 2 more times to make sure your candle is smooth. Trim off any excess wax; try to make a flat bottom with a sharp knife.

Now just hang your candles to dry. You are done!

Lighting candles is part of almost every single culture's customs from religious practices to wishing on a birthday cake. Although the procedures may differ, or the words describing the practice may be different, the core beliefs and the purpose for lighting the candles remain the same.

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Because soy wax is one of the most challenging waxes on the market it is important to learn as much as you can and get all the important tips so that you do not get discouraged and give up. Making soy wax candles can be a very enjoyable endeavor when you take the time to do things the right way. So, if you truly want to explore this one of a kind wax, Click on this link to check this product out for yourself.

You will have a full 60 days to try it out. And if you do not like it for any reason you can get 100% of your money back. Total Cost: $17.95

You'll be amazed at how simple and easy it is to start making soy candles from your very own kitchen with the "The Ultimate Guide to Soy Candlemaking, From Hobby Enthusiasts to Business Professional." You won't need to worry about making all of the typical mistakes and/or not knowing time-saving short-cuts when you let highly acclaimed Creator of Kandle Indulgence Company, Jameel D. Nolan, show you her secrets.

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Within this E-book there are so many valuable pieces of information and instruction to get you on the road to success whether you just want to create soy candles for your own home or for your family and friends; they will surely be impressed with your creations. This E-book also explains how you can develop your candle making passion into a home-based business.

Here are just a few examples of what you will find within the ultimate step-by-step instructional guide to homemade soy candles:
*Learn how to create your own custom fragrances. Fragrance guide, scent mixing, and how to create the right mood
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With this product (Moldmaking & Casting Pourable Starter Kit) the possibilities are endless! Even Martha Stewart, a well known master crafter recommends using the rubber casting materials.

Here are the basic steps (You should always fully read the actual product's instructions for yourself before you use it):

1 - The model (in this case, the owl figurine) is secured to a baseboard using a hot melt glue gun. A section of clear tubing is placed over the model and secured with hot melt glue.

2 - This candle application calls for a mold rubber that can withstand high temp-melt wax. The mold has the ability to withstand high heat, and has a high tear strength and ability to stretch around deep undercuts so that any shape mold will work successfully. (pour wax well under 225°F / 107°C)

3 - The mold's ingredients should be mixed thoroughly and then poured over the model until the rubber reaches one inch over its highest point.

4 - The rubber is allowed to cure and the original is carefully extracted.

5 - The mold will be sure to capture perfect detail from the original. Now the mold is ready for wax casting.

Get the Starter Kit

Materials Needed
At least 1 gallon of damp sand (try using colored sand that you can purchase here or at a craft store)
Wax
Shells (optional)
Wick material
An object to press into the sand to form an opening (the place where you will pour your wax into)
Tools to shape or carve designs into your finished sand candle (optional)
Funnel (optional to easily pour your wax into the mold without getting sand knocked back into the space you have created)
Instructions:
*Candlemaking can be can be both fun and dangerous. You should never try any projects that use heat and fire without an adults help, and always follow candle safety rules.

1. Put the sand in a LARGE bowl/bucket.

2. Make sure that the sand is wet so that it can be packed tight to form your mold (similar to wet sand that gets packed into an object to form a sand castle structure)

3. Make a hole in the wet sand as big as you want your candle to be. (using an object like a bowl or other shape is helpful)

4. Place shells around the sides of the mold indent or in the sand close to where the mold's indent will be if desired.

5. Take a shell and tie it to the wick; put it in the center of the bottom of the mold (this acts as a weight for your wick and it helps to hold the wick in its place). Tie the other end of the wick to a pencil/chopstick/similar object so that the wick can be held in place after you pour in your wax. (you can add as many wicks as desired) **watch the video following these instructions for a different method of adding your wick**

6. Melt the wax in your usual way or use a tin can double boiler method.

7. Pour the wax in the sand mold making sure that the wicks are properly in place. (using a funnel with a handle would be very helpful since you would have more control and it also makes it much safer since the wax is hot!)

8. Let the wax set (this can take several hours)

9. When it's hard and cool to the touch, dig about an inch away from the candle a trench about 6-10 inches deep, depending on how big your candle is, and then gently pull the candle out.

10. If you have a rounded base on your candle you can use this method to level the bottom:
Take some tin foil and cover a cooking pan's surface to protect it from getting messy. Turn the heat of your stove top onto low-med. Then hold your candle over the the surface of the tinfoil covered pan and press gently so that the bottom of the candle melts a bit. When you are satisfied with the results and your candle has a flat bottom to stand upright on its own you are done.

Beeswax comes in its natural colors as well as other colors such as pink, green, orange, etc. The beeswax sheets for this project have a hexagonal design that is very pleasing to the eye. The sheets can be cut to any size, they can be rolled together to form taller candles, and they can be rolled in different ways to create unique shapes such as a honey comb, or spiral.

A beeswax candle gives of a light, warm glow and a wonderful sweet scent. Rolled beeswax candles are about the easiest candles to make since the wax isn't melted and you don't need a melt pot or stove to make them.

Here's what you'll need:

* Some beeswax sheets
* A long piece of wick
* A matt knife, sharp knife, or razor blade (a small kitchen paring knife will work fine)
* A suitable cutting surface

1. Lay out your beeswax sheet and cut the wick to about 3/4" of an inch longer than the wax.
Tip: You can leave 3/4" of an inch on both sides if you want. This way if one end is better looking than the other, you can make either end the top!

**Beeswax is generally a soft moldable wax. However, if you are working outside on a cool day the wax may be stiff and harder to work with or it could crack. If the wax seems like it is stiff you can use a hair dryer to warm it up a bit. Be careful and hold the hair dryer far enough away so that the wax does not melt. The wax should warm up pretty quickly.

2. Lay the wick along the edge of the sheet and start the candle by bending over just enough wax to evenly cover the wick. With this small fold, you'll enclose the wick. Working from one end to the other, press down firmly to make sure the wax is tight around the wick. Note: This is the only time that you'll press hard with the beeswax sheets!

Tip: One method for forming the fold around the wick would be to turn the wax over and bend the wax along the edge of the counter or a cutting board. This ensures a nice, neat, straight fold for the wick.

3. Once the wick is pressed firmly into the wax, it's time to be gentle with the wax. You don't want to compress or warp the honeycomb pattern on the wax. Start rolling the candle slowly and straight, making sure that you are keeping the ends even.

4. Keep rolling until you reach the end. (It becomes easier to roll once you have rolled it few times)

Tip: If you want to add another sheet of wax for a double thick candle, just butt a second sheet up to the edge of the first sheet, give the two sheets a few presses with your thumb nail to help join them together, and continue rolling.

5. Gently press the final edge down onto the side of the candle. It should form a fairly smooth edge. You can use your thumb or thumb nail to press down.

6. Pick which end is the best "top" and trim the top wick to about 1/2",. Then, cut the wick off of the bottom.

Enjoy the lovely light and heavenly fragrance of your beeswax candle!

They're fun, pretty easy, and you can use many different kinds of containers for your candles - glasses, jars, buckets, cups, bowls and more. It just has to be leak proof and fire proof! Add color and fragrances, and you've got a nearly unlimited variety of possibilities.

We're going to use a container candle "classic" - the jelly jar. For this project, you'll need:

* Containers of some sort - I'm using 8 oz. standard jelly jars from the grocery store
* A container blend wax - I'm using Astorlite J-50, but there are many great ones to choose from.
* Appropriate wick for your jar and wax - I'm using a 51-32-18z, zinc core wick (though there are several wicks you could use)
* Color and fragrance as desired
* Wick bars or a plastic straw to keep the wick centered
* Basic candle making equipment
* and a basic understanding of candle making safety.

Let's get started.

Using a straw to hold the wick, dab a bit of hot glue onto the bottom of the wick tab and press it firmly into the center of your container.
You can also use the double-sided "glue dots" or "wick-stickums" - they work the same as the hot glue, but are easier.
It's important that it be centered well or the candle will not burn well.
You can now use the straw as a bar to attach your wick to. This is for centering; as the straw rests on top of the jar it keeps the wick in place.

One thing that everyone who makes container candles in clear glass jars battles is "wet spots." They're actually not "wet", it's just a place where part of the wax has separated from the jar, and part is still sticking. There is no way to completely prevent them, but one way to minimize them is to pre-heat your jars. If you're just making one or two, you can zap them with the heat gun. If you're making more than that, just put the jars on a cookie sheet and place them into a lightly warm oven - about 150 degrees is just right - warm enough to heat the jars, cool enough to not melt the wicks.

Begin melting your wax.
You can use a scale to weigh your wax in order to figure out how much wax you will need. Convert the wax's weight into oz. and then each jar should take approximately 2 oz less than its original capacity.

When the wax is completely melted and reached 180 degrees, add your color and/or fragrance oil. I used a wax "chip" - it took one chip for each pound of wax, and I used about 1 oz. of fragrance oil per pound of wax.
Stir in both the color and fragrance well.
Let the wax cool down to about 150-160 degrees.

Take the jars out of the oven.
Place them close together in a grouping on the counter. This helps the jars to cool more slowly - which also helps combat the "wet spots."
Slowly pour the wax into the jars. Be careful not to overfill them - and be sure to leave a little extra wax in case you need to do a second pour. (This will depend on your wax and temperatures.)

Let the candles cool slowly. You can wrap a towel around the group to help them cool more slowly. Be careful not to move your well-centered wicks.*Some candle makers put the candles in a shoe box (or the box the jars came in) to cool. (This works fine, but sometimes the wick bars can get in the way.)
Depending on how cool it is in your candle-making room, you may want to poke some relief holes near the wick once the top has cooled and formed a skin over the top. This will prevent your candle from having any air pockets. If you don't do a second pour, you can always smooth the tops of the candles with a hair dryer.
After pouring, make sure that all of your wicks are well centered.

Once the candles are fully cooled - several hours/overnight - trim the wicks to about 1/4". Let the candles cure for a couple days before burning them to get the best scent.

Enjoy!

by David Fisher

Naturally, wax floats. This is because wax is less dense then water. The trick is, how to get your candle to float in the water without tipping over and putting out your candle's flame. There are several different ways to do this as well as a multitude of different shapes that you can make your candle. Here is one way...

What you will need:

wax
primed wick
basic candle making equipment
a mold such as a muffin tin (The only requirement on the mold for a floating candle is that it be larger at the top than it is on the bottom. Many http://astore.amazon.com/sqidcandlem-20/detail/B0011459L4 candle supply companies sell "tart" or "floater" molds.)

Melt the wax completely in your normal way. Prime the wick, and get your mold ready.

*Optional: Once the wax is completely melted you can add any fragrance or color. Mix well with your wooden spoon.

Pour melted wax into your molds.

Let the wax cool until there is a skin over the top. Take a small piece of primed wick and gently stick it down into the center of the candle. (the skin allows the wick to stand upright and in place)

Let the candles cool completely.

When your candles have finished cooling, pop them out of the mold and trim the wicks to about 1/4".

Now, find a way to try out your floating candles!!