How To Identify Fabrics Through Details & Burn Tests
The purpose of this guide is to help you understand each type of common upholstery, drapery, linen and garment fibers and will help you identify fabrics that have no content listing
This Guide Includes:
Individual Fiber Descriptions Including:
- Name Of Fibers
- Words Associated With Each Fiber
- Physical Characteristics Of Each Fiber
- Advantages & Disadvantages Of Each Fiber
- Burn Test Results Of Each Fiber
Detailed Photographs Of Each To Be Added Soon!
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Acrylic
Orlon
Fi Lana
Pa-Qel
Remember
So-Lara
Physical Characteristics Of Acrylic:
Fibers are manmade and produced with the wet or dry spinning method
Fibers may be round, dumbbell or bean shaped
Fibers are generally crimped and marketed in the staple form
Advantages:
Imitates a natural hand
Resistant to most solvents
Resists mildew, insects and acide
Low Cost
Disadvantages:
Stains easily
Low resilience
Ignites quickly
Sensitive to sun
Non-absorbant
Weakens with age
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Burns Quickly
Removed From Flame: Continues To Melt
Odor: Acidic Odor
Ash: Plastic Looking Bead
Bast
Flax
Jute
Ramie
Hemp
Linen
Grass Cloth
Sisal
Coir
Physical Characteristics Of Bast:
Natural fiber from stems and leaves of plants
Both fine and coarse fibers are produced
Colors range from tan to dark brown
Advantages:
Natural hand
Cool
Stronger when wet
Low luster
Easy to clean
Disadvantages:
Flammable
Course texture
Does not absorb dyes well
Brittle
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Ignites immediately
Removed From Flame: Continues to burn
Odor: Burning paper or wood
Ash: Light colored
Cotton
Haitian
Combed
Chintz
Polished
Mercerized
Egyptian
Pima
Physical Characteristics Of Cotton:
Fiber contains a gentle twist which causes it to blend easily
Known as a vegetable or plant fiber. Cellulosic fiber
Requires finish for easier care
Advantages:
Natural hand
Absorbent, dyes well
Drapes well
Resists moths and beetles
Comfortable/cool fabric
Disadvantages:
Flammable
Low abrasion resistance if not dense
Easily damaged by sun if not dense
Shrinks and stains easily
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Ignites immediately
Removed From Flame: Continues to burn
Odor: Burning paper or wood
Ash: Light ash, blows away
Glass
Beta
Fiberglass
Physical Characteristics Of Glass:
Fibers come in natural and manmade form
Natural form comes from serpentine rock from Canada
Manmade form is produced from silica sand and limestone
Fibers are smooth, round and produced in staple or filament form
Advantages:
Good insulator
Cool hand
Non-combustible
Very strong and resilient
Very dense
Hydrophobic (non moisture absorbing)
Disadvantages:
Sensitive to work with
Dangerous/Hazardous
No elasticity
Abrasive to skin and respiratory system
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Does not burn
Removed From Flame: Flame can melt fabric slightly
Odor: Not applicable
Ash: Not applicable
Metal
Bekinox
Lurex
Mylar
Stainless Steel
Aluminum
Silver
Copper
Gold
Physical Characteristics Of Metal:
Produced by slitting thin sheets of metal into ribbons
Aluminum is most commonly used because silver and gold tend to tarnish
Polyester-metallic fibers are delicate (mylar)
Advantages:
Launder well
Catches eye
Tear and abrasion resistance (stainless steel)
Reduces static buildup
Disadvantages:
Fibers can tarnish (gold & silver)
Expensive
Fibers are soft and weak
Must be blended for strength
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Metal does not burn, refer to blended fabric
Removed From Flame: Not applicable
Odor: Not applicable
Ash: Not applicable
Modacrylic
Kanekalon
SEF
Verel
Dynel
Elura
Adrilan
Physical Characteristics Of Modacrylic:
Fibers are manmade, translucent, flat and irregular
Used in staple form, fibers are crimped
Used for drapes, blankets and children's sleepwear
Advantages:
Natural hand
Imitates wool well
Resistant to most solvents
Resists high temperatures
Flame resistance
Age has no affect
Good resilience
Disadvantages:
Low absorbency
Low abrasion resistance
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Melts slowly
Removed From Flame: Self extinguishes
Odor: Unidentifiable
Ash: Plastic Looking Bead
Nylon
Antron
Caprolan
Nomex
Qiana
Calanese
Cadon
Perlon
Enka
Cumoloft
Cantrece
Astroturf
Physical Characteristics Of Nylon:
Fibers are manmade, produced with melt-spinning method through spinneret
Fibers could be round, irregular or triangular
Fibers are versatile. Can be produced to be shiny or dull
100% elastic recovery
Advantages:
Resists abrasion
Blends well
Resistant to most solvents
Not affected by water
Low to minimum cost
Strongest fiber (filament)
Disadvantages:
Collects static electricity
Low sun resistance
Weaker when wet
Pills (staple)
Synthetic hand
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Melts slowly
Removed From Flame: Self extinguishes
Odor: Unidentified odor
Ash: Plastic bead
Olefin
Marvess
Marquesa
Marquesa-Lana
Polypropylene
Polyethylene
Physical Characteristics Of Olefin:
Fibers are even and usually round
Fibers are manufactured directly as multi-filament yarns
Yarns have a comfortable soft hand
Commonly used for upholstery
Advantages:
Wears well
Stain/oil resistant
Thermoplastic fiber
Burns slowly
Mildew resistant
Inexpensive
Easily cleans with water
Disadvantages:
No resistance to sunlight
Very heat sensitive
Low resistance to solvents
Must be pre-shrunk before produced into yarn
Pills
Non-absorbant
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Melts slowly
Removed From Flame: Continues to melt
Odor: Medicinal odor
Ash: Bead
Polyester
Dacron
Avlin
Tergal
Fiberfill
Fortrel
Kordel
Polarfleece
Vycron
Guaranteeth
Physical Characteristics Of Polyester:
Produced by melt spinning method
Fibers are smooth and uniform. May be round or variously shaped
Fibers can be bright, dull or speckled in appearance
Advantages:
Blends well with other fibers
Thermoplastic fiber
High wicking ability
Launderable
Resists abrasion
Dyes well
Resists sun if behind glass
Disadvantages:
Low absorbency
Oleophilic quality
Collects static electricity
Puckers
Synthetic hand
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Melts slowly
Removed From Flame: Self extinguishes
Odor: Acidic odor
Ash: Brittle bead
Read Up On Fabric Identification
Vintage Fabrics Identification & Value Guide
Amazon Price: $15.96 (as of 09/07/2008)
Miniature Mannequins: Identification & Price Guide
Amazon Price: $19.46 (as of 09/07/2008)
Embroidered Textiles: Traditional Patterns from Five Continents : With a Worldwide Guide to Identification
Amazon Price: (as of 09/07/2008)
Manual of Man-Made Fabrics: Manufacture, Properties, Identification,
Amazon Price: (as of 09/07/2008)
Plant fibre textiles from the Hopps Site: BkCp-1 (Curatorial report / Nova Scotia Museum)
Amazon Price: (as of 09/07/2008)
Rayon
Viscose
Avril
Jetspun
Benburg
Cupioni
Physical Characteristics Of Rayon:
Ingredients for fiber include wood pulp and cotton linters
Produced by wet spinning
Fibers can be produced to any length
Fibers are produced half natural, half synthetic
Advantages:
Good flexibility
Medium density
Resists solvents
Breathes well
Resists high temperatures
Low cost
Disadvantages:
Shrinks in water
Weak when wet
Low resiliency
Low sunlight resistance
Mildews in damp conditions
Burns readily
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Burns quickly
Removed From Flame: Continues to burn
Odor: Burning wood
Ash: Burns away
Silk
Tussah
Raw
Cultivated
Wild
Physical Characteristics Of Silk:
Cultivated silk is made up of long, continuous fiber. This produces a stronger fabric
Tussah silk is made up of staple fibers, which makes it delicate
Known as a protein fiber
Advantages:
Luxurious and natural hand
Absorbent and dyes well
Drapes well
Disadvantages:
Stains easily
Requires extra care and cleaning
Sun rots easily
Unravels easily
Ignites immediately
Attracts insects
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Burns slowly (curls)
Removed From Flame: Self extinguishing
Odor: Burning hair
Ash: Beads
Spandex
Duraspan
Fulflex
Lycra
Estane
Glospan
Numa
Vyrene
Interspan
Physical Characteristics Of Spandex:
Composed of segmented polyurethane
Fibers are usually white, round or dogbone shaped
Has a large elongation capability
Advantages:
Blends well
Inexpensive
Resists sunlight
Excellent elastic recovery
Not affected by moisture
Resistant to body oils
Disadvantages:
Heat sensitive
Low tenacity
Needs to be blended to be comfortable
Low density
Weakens with age
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Melts slowly
Removed From Flame: Self extinguishing
Odor: Acidic
Ash: Plastic bead
Wool
Worsted
Virgin
Woolen
Berber
Physical Characteristics Of Wool:
Fibers are scaly and contain a natural crimp
Fibers vary from fine to coarse, usually with a low luster
Known as a protein fiber
Advantages:
Most resilient natural fiber
Absorbent, dyes well
Good insulator
Natural looks
Burns slowly
Resists cleaning solvents
Good resistance to bacteria and fungi
Disadvantages:
Can cause allergic reaction
Absorbs dirt
Bad burning odor
Takes a long time to dry
Sensitive to sunlight
Burn Test Results:
In Flame: Burns slowly (curls)
Removed From Flame: Self extinguishing
Odor: Burning hair
Ash: Small beads
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Posted June 23, 2008
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