Favourite Chinese Food

Hotpot is the most sociable meal in a country of sociable meals. The fun starts even before the cooking begins. It is traditional to get heaps of ingredients to cook up so everyone can shout for their favourite. In some places all of the possibilities are already skewered and on display. Simply take a basket and bring back what you want.

Once the broth is boiling you need to get busy. No waiting for the kitchen staff - load up the pot with lots of goodies and be sure to pick them out as they become ready. Make sure the food is cooked - but don't wait too long or someone else will eat it!

I first had this dish in a tiny restaurant just around the corner from our hotel. I couldn't believe the translation ... and just couldn't resist. What might it be.

The translation wasn't a mistake - this literally is the Chinese name. Isn't it great?

It's not a dish of cooked insects as I suspected but a descriptive title for chopped pork on noodles. A great discovery - another dimension to Chinese food.

I soon began to look out for strange names, and to ask my Chinese friends where these came from. Mostly the names were descriptive, as above, but sometimes there was an interesting story attached. I'll choose this dish, Beggar's Chicken, as an example because the basic story is fun.

One day a hungry beggar stole a chicken. He didn't have a pot to cook it in so he wrapped it up in leaves and mud to protect it in the fire (and some say to disguise it). These had the effect of keeping the juices in and he ended up with a very tasty meal.

I've heard many variations on this basic story. I'm sure you'll come across others.

If you like stories, look out for Crossing-the-bridge-noodles (famous in Kunming) and Gong Bao (Kung Pao) Ji Ding amongst others.

I found that most of my fellow travellers disliked fish in China because of the bones. We still often got served fish during Yangtse Cruises though thankfully this particular method of preparation keeps most of the bones where they belong.

A throwaway comment and a little bit of research soon lead to another avenue of discovery. Our River Guide once told us to be careful not to turn the fish over whilst eating as the boat would surely capsize.

The border between superstitions and etiquette is a fine one anywhere. Discovering Chinese food traditions is fun simply because their culture is so different to the western one.

I used to teach my groups about Chinese table manners early-on during a tour. Reactions would vary. Some would think I had to be making things up. Others couldn't wait to put the 'rules' into practice. Whatever - it is a fascinating topic and one worthy of further investigation.

One fantastic discovery was in the city of Kunming in China's Yunnan Province. I had gone out to find somewhere new to eat having become bored with the same old restaurant. I noticed one place with an amazing cave-like entrance - though obviously fake. I went in and although all was closed I could see it was very different. It was like a theatre inside with dozens of tables in front of a large stage. I booked one for my group.

That evening we arrived to find the place heaving - with locals. The show turned out to be a variety performance - some acts better than others. What impresesd me was just the atmosphere. Everyone, performers and audience, was having a ball.

The food was pretty good and certainly varied. I first tried Bee Larvae here and they were as big a hit as the show. Novel but not offensive. Those who tried them wolfed down more.

Since then I've tried many exotic foods in China. Few as good as the bees but always worth trying. If nothing else, it gives me something to tell my nephews and niece.

After a couple of seasons I stopped leading tours and began working in the office. As I settled into town I began to eat more and more local food. The hardest part was giving up on western breakfasts. After a lifetime of toast, cereals or bacon & eggs how could I move over to dumplings or spicy noodles?

Time tells. Eventually a friend and I tried a local noodle shop around the corner from our office - in a cave. We were particularly pleased to be charged the correct price (not always true for foreigners where I live) and to find the noodles delicious, if a little spicy.

Back in the office we calmed our tingling mouths with sweet coffee and a habit began. The noodles got spicier and we went more regularly, even to the point that those noodles, in that cave, were my breakfast on my wedding day - and as good as ever.

At the time I didn't realise that my first visit to my future wife's home was causing quite a panic. What to feed me.

The dilemma was solved by cooking up Stuffed Peppers. Simply enough to do, fancy enough to impress.

Since I'm not actually a fussy eater I managed to eat lots of these, and pretty much everything else put in front of me. The routine was set - and this dish was, and still is, a regular whenever we visit. Sometimes I even get to chop up the pork and stuff the peppers myself - though I haven't been trusted with the actual cooking yet.

I couldn't close off without a bit of humour. To understand the picture you'll have to know my full name. I'll get to that later. Let the story begin ...

I was sat at a cafe one day when the phone rang. I couldn't understand the Chinese so I gave the phone to my wife. After a brief conversation she said "Its' your birthday." I looked at her - she knew full well it wasn't.

The phone company had rung and as a VIP customer (lots of business calls) they wanted to send me a cake for my birthday - the anniversary of me taking out the phone contract.

The cake arrived and we unpacked. You can see it. Typically beatiful - and yet strange.

It took me a while to realise. ERIC FC My full name is Ian Eric Ford. Why Happy Eric FC?

Our best guess is that two factors were involved.

Chinese get confused by western names (and vice versa). The person who ordered the cake probably took my first name as my family name and removed it to be less formal. Then ... and this is only suppostion ... they must have run out of red icing part way through Ford, just where it began to look like I was a football club (FC).

The whole cake thing made my day. A pity I have finished that job now and the phone is gone.

There are good Chinese restaurants all over the world these days - but the homeland still has the advantage. If you enjoy Chinese food at home be sure that you will be thrilled by the lively atmosphere of Chinese (in China) restaurants, and amply satisfied by the range and quality of dishes even in the most humble restaurant.

Don't be put off by a lack of Putonghua (Mandarin), you can always resort to the old traveller standby - pointing at what looks good. However, if you are planning a trip then consider getting a good phrasebook and check out my guide to Eating Out in China.

I prepared this guide after nearly seven years in China. It contains:

• My Recommended Dishes (more than 60 dishes, chosen as appealing to a broad range of tastes, and widely available); and


• Some interesting background information: fodder to start off your own passage of discovery.

I wouldn't expect you to carry the whole guide when travelling and have therefore ended with:

• A handy Reference Sheet with the same dishes (and variations) in English, pinyin and Chinese characters; and


• A Restaurant-orientated phrase sheet for the most common requests.

I am currently offering two bonus guides with Eating Out in China:

The Vegetarian's guide to Chinese food includes extra dishes making the most of China's great vegetables. This could be used to get even more variety for any visitor.

China's Most Exotic Food lists and describes some of the more unusual items consumed over here. You can take the list as a challenge - and see how many you dare try.

My passage continues. I have no idea if and when I might leave. I look forward to receiving much feedback about this guide and adding to it for years to come. All purchasers will get free updates as new dishes and new information come to me. Be sure to be part of that community.

That link again ... Eating Out in China