How to Tie a Fluke Rig

Things You Need:

* Three-way swivel

* ½ oz. saltwater jig head with hook

* #4 Circle hook

* Extra fishing line for leader materialFor inshore fishing, a traditional spin casting rod and combo is easy to use and will work well. If fishing deeper water, a shorter boat rod with a conventional reel allows better control of the drop and a little better feel on the line for the bite. My personal preference for shallow water fishing is a 7' medium-weight spin casting combo rigged with 20 lb. braided line, which works well for hooking up with fluke, and is stout enough to handle the occasional striped bass or bluefish that takes the bait.

To tie this lightweight fluke rig, start by tying a three-way swivel the end of your fishing line. Then, tie a short length of line to one end of the swivel to form a leader.

To the other end of the leader line, tie a ½ oz. saltwater jig head to form a leader approximately 6" long. Depending on the conditions for drift fishing, the jig head provides enough weight to hold the bait near the bottom in waters up to 20' deep.

In deeper water or when drifting along a rip with strong currents, a heavier jig head may be needed to hold the bait near the bottom. In fast currents, use a heavier jig and shorten the leaders to reduce line and hook tangles.

Use approximately 18" of line to tie a second leader to the three-way swivel. Tie a #4 circle hook to this second leader. While the baited jig head will hold the fluke rig near the bottom, the second longer and lighter leader will float just above the sea bottom. Using circle hook typically catches in the corner of the fish's mouth, making it easier and safer to release a fish.

Drift fishing twists the fishing line, especially when bottom fishing in currents and along rips with a weighted fluke rig.

To reduce the effect of line twist, tie a stainless steel barrel swivel to the end of your fishing line. Use a split ring to attach a snap swivel to the barrel swivel.

Then, tie the fluke rig separately, starting with a short piece of mono tied to a snap swivel on one end and the three-way swivel on the other. The snap swivel-to-snap swivel connection significantly reduces line twist while making it easy to change rigs.

Bait both hooks, using a combination of a squid strip together with a shiner. Frozen squid and shiners are available at most bait and tackle stores.

Cut the squid into thin strips, and slice the last couple of inches of the squid strip to create a tail that adds movement to the bait as it drifts along the bottom. Fluke are attracted to the fluttering motion of the squid, and will strike at the bait as it drifts by.

Buy the largest shiners you can find). Fresh shiners or other baitfish are even better. "Gulp" shrimp and sandworms are also effective baits.

Gently toss the baited fluke rig over the side of the boat at the start of the drift, taking care to ensure that the rig does not tangle as it sinks. Spool out the line until you feel the jig head hit the bottom. The jig head should bounce lightly along the bottom as the boat drifts along in the current. Lifting the rod tip slightly and then letting it fall increases the action of the rig.

If the drift is too slow or the jig is too heavy, crabs and skates will attack the bait as it drags slowly along the sea bed. If the drift is too fast for the lightweight jig head, you will not feel the bounce of the jig against the bottom and will need to add a heavier jig head.

When the drift speed is right, the light weight jig will bounce enticingly along the bottom and attract the attention of hungry fluke and flounder. Most of the fluke and flounder caught with this drift rig are hooked on the trailer hook. The fish tend to miss their initial attack at the jig but strike again as the baited trailer hook drifts by.

When a fluke hits the bait, set the hook and keep the line taunt as you rell the fish up to boat. Any slack in the line will allow the fluke to shake loose and escape. As the fluke nears the boat, use a net to lift the fish from the water.

Bring plenty of extra fluke rigs on every fishing trip. Losing rigs and tackle is a common hazard while bottom fishing for fluke as the drifting rig can get caught up in the rocks, lobster pots and other debris strewn along the bottom of the sea floor.

Tie the fluke rigs using mono fishing line. If the rig gets hung up on the bottom, the mono is more likely to break than the braided line.

Baitfish offer lots of natural scent and movement when presented on a hook, attracting the attention of hungry fluke and other game fish in the area. Catching fresh baitfish for a fishing trip requires a little advance planning and specialized equipment, but it is a good investment of time and energy. There are several methods and techniques for catching live minnows, silversides and mummichogs, and here are a few tips for catching a fresh supply of local baitfish for your next fishing trip.

Bait a trap
The simple design of the traditional minnow pot funnels the baitfish into the trap in search of an easy meal, but narrow opening makes it very difficult for the fish to escape. Bait the minnow trap with corn chips instead of bread or fish heads; the oil from the chips attracts baitfish and the chips hold up longer in the water than bread and are not as messy as fish heads. Tie the minnow trap to a dock or pier, and wait a few hours for the bait to arrive.

Cast a net
When the opportunity arises, throw a casting net over a school of baitfish. A dipping net is not as effective at catching baitfish but is still useful for scooping out a few minnows or shiners. Try coaxing baitfish within reach by baiting the water with chips, bread or canned cat food.

Use a bigger net
One or two passes with a seine net can catch enough baitfish for a full day of fishing. A seine net has small weights attached to the bottom edge of the net with floats attached at the top to hold the net up vertically in the water. Long poles at either end are used to guide the net through the water, encircling and trapping the baitfish. Use a seine net along sandy shorelines, avoiding rock areas that can rip the net. Along with a supply of baitfish, a few tasty blue claw crabs might get caught up in the net.

Keep baitfish in an aerated live well. If using a bucket or cooler, replace the water frequently. Some of the baitfish will inevitably die off, but the dead minnows are still very effective bait, giving off a scent that carries through the water to attract game fish. At the end of the day, freeze the extra baitfish for another day.

If you can't catch baitfish, buy some!

Successful catch and release fishing begins with your fishing tackle. Circle hooks are very effective, and setting the hook properly usually results in catching the corners of the fluke's mouth. Circle hooks are swallowed much less frequently than traditional hooks, saving unnecessary internal injury to the fish.

Landing the fish quickly will help to keep the fluke strong for a safe release. Use a hook extractor or pliers to remove imbedded hooks. Grab the hook as close to the point as possible, while gently yet firmly twisting and backing out the hook. Pliers or an extractor provides extra leverage without putting additional pressure against the fish. Do not hold the fish by its gills.

Return the fish to the water as quickly as possible, but releasing an exhausted and disoriented fish before it has time to recover is lethal. Hold the fish in the water by its tail while supporting the midsection, and within a few minutes, a healthy and uninjured fish will begin to regain its strength. Taking the time to allow a tired fish to recover fully before swimming off on its own will significantly increase its chances to survive and to fight again on another day.

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