Fur Fashion

FUR FOR THE 21ST CENTURY

The evolution of fur has come full circle, with its use in clothing dating back as far as man, its inherent strength and warmth have been used as an essential tool for survival. The latest collections have incorporated that innate gift and shown us there is only one way to embrace a cool evening summer breeze or an icy winter chill.
It wasn't until the 17th century that fur came to real prominence as a fashion in Rome, becoming revered and used to signify the stature of its wearer. From then on, fur became a sought after resource and the Fur trade gained strength across Europe and the Americas, growing into a major source of income. From the boom of the flappers in the 1920's and 30's to the swinging buzz of the 60's and 70's, it was the definitive accessory for every girl about town until the opulence of the eighties saw it fly back to the very high end of the market. While the 90's saw a huge change of direction in fashions, the 21st century's return to classic elegance has fully embraced its revival.

The Origin Assured (OA) label was created to promote the responsible and sustainable production of fur. As the use of fur in designer collections permeates from the catwalks into the high street, these welfare assurances will come into their own, as today's more conscientious shopper will no doubt be insisting on (OA) only furs.

CELEBRATING A FUR REVIVAL

Whether faux or real, the catwalks have seen a positive fur fashion revival in both Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear collections. The last few seasons have seen fur bursting back on to the runway as the ultimate luxury fashion item whether as coats, hats, trims or bags.

Designers have been queuing up to work with this versatile material, exploring new ways in cuts, dye's and a variety of shapes in some of the most exciting silhouettes to grace the world's fashion weeks.

There has been a new wave of support for the fur trade and its initiatives from over 400 renowned designers and its popularity among the masses is growing daily thanks to the simple element of choice. Carla Fendi of fashion giant Fendi captured the mood when asked about its revival, she said "women want the freedom to wear whatever they want".

SPRING/SUMMER 2011 CATWALKS

Fresh ideas, creative cuts and sparkling brights helped make up the spring/summer 2011 Ready-to-Wear collections.

ORIGIN ASSURED LABEL (OA)

The fur trade is now one of the most regulated and responsible industries around with great care and attention focussed on the welfare of the animals. There are also communities, forums and online tools set up, such as Fur-Style.com and iftf.com to help young designers work with and look after their fur and of course, to school the next generation in the real practices of fur production.

The Origin Assured (OA) label was created to ensure the responsible and sustainable production of fur and to provide consumers with information about the fur garment or product they wish to buy.

In every trade, purchasing is now about choice. Today's consumers want, need and deserve the assurance that the products they buy not only projects the beauty, shows the quality and exudes the chic they expect from fur but that it also originates from both responsible and sustainable sources. The (OA) label achieves just that, as it assures that the fur product being sourced is from a country where welfare regulations or standards governing fur production are in force.

FUR COATS FOR A NEW GENERATION

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Out go the days of the 80's where fur was associated more with the indulgence of only the rich and famous, literally swamping its wearer in its lavish weight; the latest designs show a master manipulation of the material from daring new cuts to sumptuous dyes to shape and flatter. The fresh take on the classic fur coat now brings new, more contemporary and edgy designs that cast a refreshing silhouette, oozing class and sophistication while presenting a sexy and sensual line.

From haute couture to the high street, everybody's getting in on using fur as a design material. Classic designs have also been given luxury make-overs such as full length, military trench and shearling aviator styles. With collars, cuffs and trims adorned with a variety of furs in both faux and real fur including mink fur and beaver fur, colours have been accentuated, contours are curvaceous and glamour is bouncing back to the catwalk.

FUR ACCESSORIES FOR FUN ACTIVITIES

Fur trims will be adorning a whole raft of accessories on both summer and winter wardrobe essentials. While you'll find coats, gilets and even the return of the Yeti boot, you can also discover their matching accessories in the realms of hats, gloves, and leg warmers in a sumptuous assortment of furs. While scarves, stoles and snoods have appeared embroidered, printed and feathered while lovingly draped.

The fur trade has seen an insurgence with the number of designers using fur to add that extra luxury to their pieces with cuffs and collars being sold separately in some instances to titivate your outerwear. Most pieces lining the catwalk the last few seasons haven't been noticed without themselves being lined with trims of bold animal prints, plush colours and new cut effects to finish and garnish a wide range of ensembles.

TOP 5 FUR MUST-HAVE'S

1. The Coat

Whether full length or trimmed and cuffed; fox and Mongolian lamb seem to be the most popular choice for coats and jackets. Even though vintage chinchilla is in demand, the use of fox means no longer is the wearer feeling the coat as a heavy burden, as fox is a lightweight pelt but gives volume in its fur. The oversized, puffed high collars and big shoulders can be seen on the capes and coats available and cut the silhouette for the latest fur fashions.
2. The Stole
Prada have 'stole'n this category with their fun and vibrant designs in the bold spring/summer season trend of colour blocking. This fox 'must-have' is being donned by a slew of celebrity fans and fashionistas alike such as Rihanna and Marc Jacobs. More chic bright hues can be seen from Sonia Rykiel and Amanda Wakeley, while sleek designs and graceful neutrals are offered by John Richmond, Andrew Gn and Ralph Lauren.
3. The Bolero

Mainly seen in mink, fox, karakul and beaver, the bolero remains the perfect accessory to accompany any evening attire and to liven up your daywear. The opulence and warmth afforded by fur finishes any outfit with ease, which is perfectly showcased by Andy & Debb, Christian Dior and Carolina Herrera.
4. The Bag

Dolce & Gabbana produced a selection of broadtail and leather bags with dyed fox flap for AW10/11 which set the bar for bag designs over the coming seasons. While Emilio Pucci worked with karakul on shoulder bags and added mink tails, the distinctive check of Louis Vuitton still shines through with a luscious black and grey fox satchel with large leather handle with other diverse bag examples in AW11/12 coming from Dennis Basso's Marigold chinchilla and alligator bag and Anteprima's lamb trimmed clutch.
5. The Hat

Winter warmers welcomed the pill box and cossack hats back into the fold from the likes of Vivienne Westwood, alongside the rabbit bucket hats of Band of Outsiders or slouch hats from Jean-Paul Gaultier & animal print peaked flat caps from Burberry. While summer classics come from Diane Von Furstenberg's Parisian inspired berets & fur trimmed cloche's from Caroline Charles.

CHANGING FACES OF FUR STYLES

While fur fashion is firmly back strutting the catwalk, we happily welcome a range of new styles to excite the wardrobe.

Classic designs are back with a new twist in coats like the parka from Altuzarra, different takes on the biker jacket from Alexander Wang or shearling aviator styles from Blumarine, Aminaka Wilmont and Barbara Bui. While colour has been infused by the likes of David Koma, Christian Dior and Blugirl.

Ann Demeulemeester's now signature feathered style leads the progressive collections of shaggy cuts with Fendi, Bibhu Mohapatra and Carlos Miele. While the always inspirational Dennis Basso brings full bodied elegance back to fur, alongside more full length classic designs from Antonio Berardi, Salvatore Ferragamo and Valentino.

FUR TYPES

The most popular types of fur to make it down the runway have come from mink, fox, shearling and orelag with designers showing clear favourites in their stylings.

Mink projects a soft and shiny textured fur and is traditionally used in mufflers, stoles and coats. Designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Valentino, Carolina Herrera, Givenchy and Fendi, along with Alexander Wang, Ann Demeulemeester, Cerruti and Hermés have used it in their collections.

Fox is known for its distinctive colours and hardy nature, although still very soft, so mainly used for capes and hats. Yves Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Matthew Williamson, Christian Dior and Kenzo have shown their love.

Whereas Marc Jacobs, Versace and Vera Wang are partial to Mongolian Lamb with its long and curly wave pattern and surprisingly lightweight pelt, it usually expresses an almost reflective white high sheen and is used chiefly in shearling collars, trims and cuffs.

While Jean-Paul Gaultier, Helmut Lang and Betty Jackson have worked with Rabbit, which is known for its inherent warmth, variety of natural colours and super silky feel.

If you would like to know more about Fur Farming Please visit the website.

REMIX - EXPRESSING INNOVATION & REAPING REWARDS

Celebrating promising young designers is the internationally renowned 'REMIX'. An annual worldwide fur design competition held in the fashion centre of Milan encouraging raw talent to express their love of fur through exciting new designs. Established in 2003 by IFTF and the Milan based International Fur and Leather Exhibition (MIFUR); REMIX has attracted more than 360 designers from over 20 countries and is judged by fashion media and senior industry.

While 2010 saw the introduction of the special OA%u2122 award, which specifically showcased designers working with Origin Assured fur, 2011 saw the new category 'Pimp My Coat' introduced by IFTF's Young Fur Traders' Committee to promote versatility and sustainability. This was won by Thom Olson from the US.

2011 Gold prize was awarded to Sarah Lam Woon Hei, who studies fashion at the Hong Kong Design Institute, for her striking high collar mink coat. While both the Silver prize and the OA Special Award went to Finnish designer, Annika Heikinheimo, and Bronze was given to Yuya Itoh.

The awards and their laudable winners proved encouraging signs that tomorrow's next top designers are already bold, inspirational and not afraid to creatively express themselves through fur fashion.

For more detail please visit the website iftf.com

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