Garden Spades

Yes, you can grow healthy plants in clay soil.

Clay tends to stick together and feels like a sticky plastic ball. Drainage and aeration is poor, but, do not despair, there is a way to improved soil, where particles are loosened into crumbs which improves airspace and drainage.

Break up the clay as best you can using a garden spade or maybe even a pickaxe. I found that by adding gypsum was extremely beneficial in improving the clay soil. Approximately 1kg of gypsum to every square metre of top soil. Add in some organic matter which is animal manure/compost/ash/sawdust etc, (Tip: do not use potting mix) at a rate of around a third organic matter to around two thirds of the existing clay soil. Cultivate this topsoil as well as you can (about 15-20cm in depth). Leave a day or two before planting, then water your plants in well.

It is very important to mulch to stop the surface from caking. I prefer to use sugar cane mulch as it is inexpensive and when it breaks down it helps to improve the soil, but realistically any mulch is beneficial to any type of soil.

Finally, do not give up on your clay soil. Keep topping up with organic matter (animal manure/compost etc) and gypsum or with liquid fertilizers and clay breaker, preferably on a yearly basis and you will be reaping the benefits for years to come.

The next task is to prepare the new planting site. There really is no excuse for having the rose out of the ground any longer than is absolutely necessary.

I'm assuming that the new site is suitable: %u2022 It gets, at the very least, 6 hours of sunlight a day. %u2022 The pH has been tested and it's between 6.0 and 6.9. %u2022 The site doesn't get waterlogged.

When digging the hole with a Solid Forged Shrubbery Spade at the new planting site, make sure that it's plenty big enough to accept the rose's root-ball, now is not the time to be mean with your efforts. Depending on the size of the proposed rose, dig a hole with a diameter that is slightly larger than half the diameter of the rose's top growth, and about 14 inches deep. Run the hose into the hole and slowly allow it to fill with water for an hour or so.

To lift the rose from its current position, using a garden spade, kick the spade down to the full depth of the blade, do this around the entire plant. This will sever the roots to free the rose from the ground. Now try to work the spade underneath the rose to sever any roots there as well. When the rose is free, remove it as carefully as possible, keeping as much of the soil around the roots as is possible, and place it on an old sack or similar for carrying it to its new location.

Into the hole that you've dug, sprinkle a half cup of bone meal as this will help with root growth. Place the rose into the hole, disturbing the root ball as little as possible and start backfilling it. Pressing down with the heel of your boot, firm the rose into position. Plant the rose a little higher than the final depth to allow for settling.

The top growth of the rose is probably going to flag now after all this disturbance so it may be prudent to reduce the years growth by half, this will reduce transpiration. Until the roots get really established again, the rose is going to lose more moisture through its leaves than it can take up through its roots, so keeping it moist is going to be vital.

Keep an eye on it now and if it appears to wilt, water the roots again until it's settled.