Travel Tips: Focus on France

Destinations

If you haven't decided where to go, or if you need some more information about the place you've chosen, one possibility is your local
American Automobile Association office, where a year's membership entitles you to free TourBooks(tm) for many destinations, with detailed info about what to see, where to stay, and where to dine. AAA also offers other services such as passport photos, travel insurance, and more.

Maybe you're thinking of visiting France, but you're not quite sure? The US State Department has a consular information sheet about France. One of the best-known guides is Lonely Planet, with a wealth of information. You'll also find an image gallery. Another popular source of tourist information is the Rough Guides series. For a more in-depth guide to planning your trip to France, take a look at France Instructions: Planning Your Adventure. France is a country with many different landscapes, not only Paris - though Paris *is* a dream destination.



ParisEscapes.com has a wonderful list of reasons why you might choose Paris in particular. (This is really an excellent site to explore!) Schmap.com has maps of Paris, with photos, as well as lots of descriptive info. Travel + Leisure Magazine's website has a Paris Destination Guide with insider tips, hotels, restaurants, and more - even an interactive map to show you the locations of the restaurants and hotels you've chosen.



On Martin Aston's website, you can find some additional tips for feeling safe in Paris.

What to Pack

If you're not in the habit of traveling frequently, you might like some suggestions for what to take along. Here is a pretty comprehensive list. Some of it's specific for cold weather, some for hot. You probably won't need everything on the list. The lighter you can travel, the better. AirSafe.com has an excellent Top 10 Baggage Tips list. There are also some really good suggestions at How to Prevent Lost Luggage and Airline Lost Your Luggage! Now What?.

If you take old clothes that you won't miss much, you can drop them off in a trash can if need be. (That also makes room for more souvenirs. If you take less than your quota of baggage, you can put in an extra bag for bringing things home!) If everything you take is brand new, you'll also be more of a target for those less-than-scrupulous types looking for easy marks.

So many suitcases look alike these days - black! To avoid craning the neck in front of the luggage carousel at your destination airport, find a way to make your bags stand out from the others without making them too inviting! Here's what I did with one of mine:



Medications for Travel

You should also take into consideration the medications you will need, both for the plane trip and the duration of your visit. Be sure your supply is sufficient for your needs. It's also important to have prescriptions or copies for any and all prescription drugs in your bags, whether carry-on or checked (though you should never pack your prescription meds in your checked luggage. What if it gets lost?). I've personally never been asked to show my prescriptions, but it's much better to be safe than sorry. Be sure that any medications you bring comply with TSA regulations.

This site gives some information about travel-related ailments, such as jet lag, motion sickness, or deep vein thrombosis.

24-Hour Clock, Time Zones, and Daylight Savings
Time

Wikipedia has a good explanation of the 24-hour clock, also known as military time, used by most countries outside North America. Start thinking in those terms early on. Also, begin orienting yourself to the time zone in your destination, by setting your watch to the time there as soon as you've taken off on the final leg of your flight. For example, my most recent flight from the east coast was routed through Toronto. I didn't reset my watch until I was on the plane from Toronto to Paris.

Just for the record, all of metropolitan France is in the Central European Time Zone. For most of the year, France is six hours ahead of Eastern Time. (When it's midnight in New York, it's already 6:00 a.m. the next day in Paris.) The CET link gives the dates for "Summer Time" or "Daylight Savings Time".

Jet Lag

If you've ever flown across time zones, you've probably experienced jet lag, which occurs when our bodies are out of sync with the time zone in which we find ourselves. It takes time to adjust to the change from one zone to another, and we often feel sleepy in the daytime or wide awake at night. The more time zones we cross, the worse the jet lag. To avoid a sleep deficit from the beginning of the trip, get plenty of sleep in the days before leaving.
The National Sleep Foundation offers some suggestions for coping with jet lag. There's also the possibility of sleep aids or melatonin, but chemical solutions should *always* be used with caution.

Foreign Currency

If you're traveling to a foreign country, you may need to think about exchanging money. As in most of Europe, the currency used in France these days is the euro (but *not* in England, where pounds sterling are still the choice!). It's important to have some idea of the rate of exchange between your currency and that of the country you're visiting. You can find a pretty good currency converter at www.xe.com.

They may be great for traveling in the U. S., but in my experience, travelers' checks are not a good option here in France. It's almost impossible to get them cashed anywhere other than a bank, and to get them cashed at a bank, it helps to know someone.

A better bet is to carry your credit/debit card and use ATMs - of course, you must pay attention to your surroundings and shield your PIN from anyone who might be watching. It's good to start out with at least a little of the foreign currency on your person, just in case you have trouble finding a working ATM - large banks in Paris will most likely sell euros for dollars, but in small towns, even in local branch banks in Paris neighborhoods, you can't count on it.

But be careful - unlike American machines, ATMs in France don't tell you how much it's costing you to use them... it's just deducted automatically. At least the French machines insist that you take your card before they give you your money. (In the U. S., I once went shopping a couple of hours away from home immediately after withdrawing cash... I was all the way to my destination before I realized that I'd left my card in the ATM.)

Electrical/Electronic Gadgets

The electrical system in Europe is different from that of the U. S. If you bring electric razors, hair dryers, digital cameras, phone chargers, battery chargers, laptop computers, etc., you will need a converter and possibly an adapter as well, if the place where you're staying isn't fairly new.

Passports and Visas

Once you've decided where you're going, one of the first steps is getting a passport, an internationally recognized travel document that verifies the identity and nationality of the bearer. A valid U.S. passport is required to enter and leave most foreign countries. Only the United States Department of State has the authority to grant, issue or verify U. S. passports.

The State Department has a site that tells exactly how to go about getting a passport for the first time. This includes a link to a site for downloading a passport application. You can get almost everything done before your appointment with an authorized passport acceptance agent. (You can renew a passport by mail if you're in the U. S. Those of us in foreign countries have to go to the nearest U. S. Embassy.)

For my first one, I had to go to the local probate judge's office - or was it clerk of court? And I had to have an appointment, especially important in small local offices that are only open part-time for certain administrative tasks.

If you've never had a passport before, you have to apply in person. But you can go to your nearest acceptance facility with two approved photographs of yourself, proof of U.S. citizenship, and a valid form of photo identification such as a driver's license. Acceptance facilities include many federal, state and probate courts, post offices, some public libraries and a number of county and municipal offices.

NOTE: Don't sign your passport application until in the presence of, and under the instructions of, the passport acceptance agent!

A visa is an endorsement on a passport showing that it has been examined by the proper officials of a country and granting entry into or passage through that country. For Americans, a visa is not required for tourist/business stays up to 90 days in France. Anyone intending to stay more than 90 days must obtain the appropriate visa issued by one of the French Consulates in the U.S., prior to departure for France. The 90-day period begins when you enter any of the Schengen group of countries: Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, and Sweden. Check with the Embassy of France in the U. S. for further information about visas.

Permitted and Prohibited Items

In these post-9/11 days of potential terrorist attacks, we have to be very conscious of security. If you're traveling across national borders, it's very important to know what is permitted and precisely how you have to do things. The Transportation Security Administration has a list of permitted and prohibited items that you should consult before any international travel.

Remember that you are allowed only one quart-sized Ziploc bag in which you must place all liquids and gels that you plan to take with you into the cabin of the plane. Each of these items in the one bag must be just 3 ounces or less, and in an original, travel-sized container. No half-full 6-ounce containers. Exceptions, such as for those traveling with babies, are discussed on the TSA site.

One of the principal philosophies of cooking and eating here in France is that for a healthy diet, there should be a variety of foods. And there is quite a variety: in the "meat" division alone, you can find beef, pork, mutton, horse (see photo below: a local shop that sells horse meat), poultry, wild game, seafood, sausages of every description, snails, frog legs - and I'm sure I've still left many things out. Fruits and vegetables from all over the world, influences from every corner of the globe, all served up with that magnificent secret ingredient that makes French cooking, whether haute or bourgeoise cuisine, so impressive: imagination!



Part of the beauty of France, particularly in the Paris region, is that you can find influences from around the world. So for those of you who have no spirit of culinary adventure whatsoever, you may be happy to know that McDonald's has well and truly established itself in France, along with Pizza Hut, Domino's, and KFC. Be aware that even at these familiar places, you will find some concessions to French taste, and rightly so. Since my first visit to the Paris region in 2000, I think I've eaten at McDonald's three times. The vinaigrette salad dressing was delicious!



I don't have a very sophisticated palate myself - for instance, I'm not a fan of foie gras, paté, organ meats, or seafood - but French cuisine really is everything they say it is. Sure, if you try hard enough, you can find restaurants where the food isn't so great, but generally it's excellent. Mind you, if you like your steak well-done, you must insist that it be tres, tres bien cuit (it sometimes helps to tell the waiter, "I'm American!"), or you may find it still mooing a bit. Some French chefs may find it a bit offensive to be compelled to spoil a perfectly good piece of beef by "overcooking" it.



One of the mainstays of French cuisine is its bread. Though the average per capita consumption of bread has fallen from about two pounds a day in 1900 to today's 5.5 ounces, it's still a mainstay. Just try to make a quick trip to any boulangerie during rush hour! Once you make it inside (for you will almost certainly have to stand in line), you can find everything from the basic baguette for less than a euro to beautiful, richly designed cakes commanding prices of 25 euros or more. You'll see pains au chocolats, chaussons aux pommes, tartelettes au citron and much, much more. Below are some petits gateaux from our local boulangerie:



Here's a dining experience I wrote home about:
First the server brought us a basket of bread and another of raw veggies: black radish, radishes, zucchini, tomatoes, bell pepper, endives, cauliflower... don't remember if that's it or not... and we made our own salads. Let us not forget the carafes of wine. There was also a sort of salad bar with marinated artichoke hearts, asparagus, beets, several fishy sort of things that I never touch, several different sorts of sausages... And next was the meat course... I had a well-done ribeye which was still very pink, but it's hard to regulate such things when you cook over an open fire, so the outside was charred a bit while the inside was not as done as I'd normally like it to be... nevertheless, it was delicious. And then there was a plate of cheeses from which we could choose as much as we liked... Brie, Camembert, a few others - the Brie was delicious - and finally, dessert... a choice of iles flotants (see photo) or a selection of ice creams - I had pistachio. We were with good friends and had a nice time.



I remember after one visit to France, I wound up back in the States feeling rather hungry after a long flight. I bought a salad from a major restaurant chain at the airport in Atlanta, and when I opened it, I just wanted to cry - in contrast to the food I'd eaten in France, it was nowhere near fresh; just as bad, it was just plain boring.



Another point is that with the French food philosophy, the object of the game isn't to eat as much as possible in the shortest possible time, but to take the time to savor a reasonable quantity of delicious - and healthy - food and drink.

The French are generally quite conscious of the relationship between nutrition and health. They eat well, then abstain from between-meal snacks, and they drink a lot of water.

It's safe to drink the water in France, and it's the beverage of choice for many people. You often see passengers on the buses and trains with their bottles of water in hand or peeking out of their bags. (When playing tourist, it's a very good idea, in fact.) In most brasseries and pubs, you can get une carafe d'eau (a pitcher of water) free with your meal. If you don't specifically request this, the servers may very well bring you bottled water, which can be expensive.

Coca-Cola is not cheap in France. In restaurants it usually starts at two euros or more. And here you don't get free refills on anything except tap water. Since drinks are where most food establishments make their biggest profits, they may not be thrilled to keep pouring for you when you're not paying for it.

Of course they'll be most happy to keep refilling your glass with a house wine. (It isn't free, but it can be very reasonably priced.) Or even better, to serve you a bottle or two of fine wine. France is the world's leading wine producer, but it's tied with Spain for second place in wine exports. Keep in mind that French wines are not industrial products. They are created through a combination of factors, including soil, climate, the variety of the grape, and the care the individual wine grower takes with the vineyards.

Comfy Shoes

Be sure to wear comfortable shoes when you travel! When you're flying, they should be something you can slip off easily on the plane - or going through security. And take some socks for the plane too... it can get pretty cold, depending on the season and your body thermostat.

If you're going to do a lot of walking once you reach your destination, the shoes should have thick soles. I personally recommend hiking socks to go with them. If you're buying new shoes for the trip, break them in well before you go so you won't get blisters. Otherwise, have plenty of band-aids that conform to your curves and don't make you itch.

Telephones

When I was coming to France as a visitor, I never used anything but phone cards. They're available at La Poste and at tobacconist shops. Since I've become a resident, of course, I use our fixed-line phone to call the U.S., or my mobile phone to make calls in France only... It's more expensive to call a cell phone in France from a fixed line because the caller pays all of the cost. Get more info on this subject at Trip Advisor. The most up-to-date info (18 April, 2008) I've seen on this subject is a CNN article that discusses unlocking your phone and switching to a locally purchased SIM card or renting a world phone to save money on calls to the US.

I've just come across another option for making or receiving calls in Europe while visiting. You can get information directly from the source at Call in Europe, or you can read an article written by a satisfied customer at the website of TravelLady Magazine.

For useful telephone numbers while in France, you can refer to the directory at Paris-Anglo.com.

To make a call to the U. S. (or Canada) direct from France, dial 001 + the ten-digit U. S. number. To call France from the U. S., dial 011-33 then the nine-digit French number ( - leaving off the leading zero. When in France calling French numbers, however, the zero must be dialed.).

Internet Cafes

There are lots of internet cafes around these days. Paris-Anglo.com has a list of cybercafes, sortable by name or by zip code.

Be aware that French keyboards are more likely to use the AZERTY configuration rather than the QWERTY. If you use a public computer, ask the proprietor if it's possible to set the toggle to change the language easily between English and French (Demarrer, parametres, panneau de configuration, options regionale et linguistique, langues, details...).

If you're using an American keyboard and you need to type French characters, try typeit.org. (It also has special characters for Spanish, Italian, and quite a few other languages.)

Also, thanks to Paris Wi-Fi, if you bring your portable computer with you, you can connect to the city's high speed wireless network at more than 260 public locations throughout Paris - gardens, libraries, museums, and mayors' offices. The service is accessible from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., depending on the hours of operation of the sites themselves. See the list of their locations by arrondissement.

While Americans often hear that Parisians are snobs, many French people will try to help you out with your French when they see that you're making a sincere effort to speak their language and respect their culture. In my experience, they resent it if you don't. Their perceived snobbishness just might be their reaction to other people's rudeness.

And who can blame them? How would you like it if you ran into a loud foreign tourist in the U. S. who didn't speak English, and, when you let him know you didn't understand, only became indignant - and even louder? It comes across as arrogant - and it comes across as arrogant every time we Americans expect the rest of the world to speak English when we are on their territory.

So in the interest of promoting harmony among nations, it's best to learn at least some basic expressions.

Here are a few words and phrases to get you started.

Hello = Bonjour (morning)
Hello = Bonsoir (evening)
Good night = Bonne nuit (bedtime)
Goodbye = Au revoir
Mr. = Monsieur
Mrs., Ms. = Madame
Miss = Mademoiselle
Yes = Oui
No = Non
Thank you (very much) = Merci (beaucoup)

Please = s'il vous plait
Excuse me. = Excusez-moi.
Excuse me. = Pardon.
I'm sorry. = Désolé(e).
Help! = Au secours!
My name is... = Je m'appelle...
Pleased to meet you. = Enchanté(e).
How much is it? = C'est combien?
That's (too) expensive! = C'est (trop) cher(e)!
Check, please. = L'addition, s'il vous plait.
What time is it? = Quelle heure-est il?

I'm looking for ... = Je cherche ...
Where is the restroom? = Ou sont les toilettes?
[It's always plural in French. La toilette is general grooming.]
Where is...? = Ou est...?
-the station = la gare
-the exit = la sortie
-the bank = la banque
-the bakery = la boulangerie
to the right = a droite
to the left = a gauche
straight ahead = tout droit

I live in ... = J'habite ...
I'd like to go to... = Je voudrais aller à ...
Is this the right way to get to ...? = C'est le bon chemin pour ... ?
A mobilis for zones 2 to 5, please. = Un mobilis pour zones deux à cinq,
s'il vous plait.
I don't know. = Je ne sais pas.
I don't understand. = Je ne comprends pas.
a map = un plan
Do you speak English? = Parlez-vous anglais?
A receipt, please = Un ticket, s'il vous plait.
the menu = la carte
the ten-euro special = le menu 10 euros

one = un
two = deux
three = trois
four = quatre
five = cinq
six = six
seven = sept
eight = huit
nine = neuf
ten = dix

Driving in France

As mentioned, you could rent a car... but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who hasn't already spent some time here. Driving in France is a singular experience. Even if they do drive on the same side of the road as in America, there are often quite a few variations in the way things are done. In the U. S., we talk about the driver on the right having the right of way, but the only time that really seems to come into play is at a four-way stop, usually in the middle of nowhere. But here in France there are many places where you really do have to pay close attention and yield right of way to the driver coming in from a side street on the right. Those with the right of way may or may not assert their right... and those who by law must yield won't necessarily do it - so while at the wheel, you'd better be attentive at all times!

When I first arrived in France, I had an International Driving Permit (available from AAA for U. S. $15), but I was quite sure I'd never be able to drive here. People were so aggressive! Now, after a year of just observing and three years of actual driving experience, I find it's not nearly as bad as I thought it would be... but don't ever think you can let your guard down. Driving here is serious business and demands your full attention.

And talking on your cell phone, eating or drinking, or listening to your mp3 player via earphones while you're driving is strictly prohibited by law.

Oh... by the way... there's another driving phenomenon that I find quite interesting. When a motorcyclist is passing a car whose driver has gone out of his way to let the motorcycle through, after he's passed the car, the motorcyclist will often stick out his right foot (or left one if it's the car on his left). He sticks it out gently, keeping it straight for a second or two.

That means "Thank you, but I can't let go with my hands to wave at you." Obviously waving with his hand is fine as well, but often not too practical, especially at the speeds encountered on the autoroute. (From Motorbiker.org - this page wasn't working the last time I checked, but I want to give credit where it's due.)

Though at first it might be a little disconcerting to see so many motorcycles weaving around your car as you make your way along your journey, keep in mind that if each of them were riding single file along with all the cars, it would take a lot longer for anyone to get anywhere! Share the road!

Upon Arrival

A Note on Safety/Health - Emergencies

The emergency numbers in France for police, fire, and medical assistance are as follows:
17 - police emergency
18 - fire department (les pompiers) - note that these are the ones to call first in a medical emergency; they will determine the next steps, and if necessary, they will call the medical team, or SAMU
15 - emergency medical/paramedic team/ambulance

Getting Around

Once you've arrived at the airport, picked up your luggage, and passed through passport control and customs, the next step is getting to your hotel or other lodging. Unless you have someone meeting you with a car, you have several choices. You can take a taxi, a bus (or perhaps your hotel has a shuttle service?), a train, or you can rent a car.

When my husband can't meet me at the airport, my choice is the train, as the RER Line B goes directly to the Gare du Nord and Chatelet-les-Halles, and from those stations, it's simple enough to go almost anywhere in Paris or its close suburbs. A ticket from Charles de Gaulle airport to my Wrinkle-in-the-Outskirts is about 11-12 euros. (The one time I tried the taxi, it cost me that much just to get from home to my local train station. Never again.)

RATP - RER, Metro, and Buses in Paris

There's an excellent guide to getting around in Paris here. You can pick up a Paris Metro map and RER map in major Metro stations. Anywhere on the RATP (buses, trains), *always* have the right ticket for your journey. Keep it with you in an accessible place until you've exited the station. Never try to go beyond the limits of the zones where your ticket is valid; otherwise you could be faced with a stiff penalty of 25 euros or more. And ignorance is no defense! The "controlleurs" are deaf to explanations for not having the right ticket! (Trust me... I speak from experience: My first year here, I paid a fine of 20 euros because I didn't know that the RER station nearest my husband's job was in Zone 5, when my ticket only covered Zones 1-4.)

You can learn all about the available tickets (including Paris Visite) at the RATP website. Click on the Union Jack (UK flag) at the top of the page to get it in English. Whenever you buy a ticket, always ask for the best possible price. The ticket agents are usually very helpful, especially if you remember to remain patient and preface any conversation/question with a smile and a cheery "Bonjour!"



When I go to Paris, my favorite ticket is the mobilis (click on "Titres et tarifs", then "Tous les tarifs", then "Mobilis"), which permits unlimited travel on the Metro, RER, and buses for one day, as long as the passenger stays in the designated zones. Living in Zone 4 and working in Zone 5, I have a pass for Zones 4-5, so I pay about 9-10 euros for my mobilis for zones 1-4, and I'm pretty well set. If you rent a hotel in Paris itself, then a ticket to get around inside the city will be less.

If you have internet access while in the Ile de France, you can plan all your trips by using the SNCF website. Just enter your starting point (city and stop), destination, date of travel, departure or arrival time, and the website will show you everything you need to know.

The SNCF also has some special tickets for six special tourist sites: the Versailles Chateau, the Fontainebleau Chateau, the Auvers-sur-Oise Chateau, the Asterix Amusement Park, The Mer de Sable Amusement Park, and France Miniature. These tickets are less expensive than the combined cost of the ticket plus the entrance to the attraction. I can personally recommend the castle of Fontainebleau and the town of Auvers-sur-Oise (the final resting place of Vincent Van Gogh).

Bicycling in Paris

Another option for getting around Paris is bike rental. In many places, there are bike lanes, while in others, you'll have to ride with the traffic. Not having been on a bicycle in many years, I don't feel qualified to advise you. Click here for recommendations and comments from a seasoned cyclist, Q. May. Also by the same author is a page with bicycling terminology.



The newest thing in bicycling in Paris is Vélib'. Vélib' is a self-service bike-hire system available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Multiple pick-up and drop-off locations allow you to pick up your bike from one service point and drop it off at another. While Paris residents can purchase an annual subscription, visitors can choose a one-day or seven-day subscription. Be aware that there is a 150-euro pre-authorization required as a safety deposit.

Electric Tricycles

In the streets at the heart of Paris, Cyclobulle is a new, practical, fast, and eco-friendly means of transportation. An electric tricycle operated by a chauffeur, the Cyclobulle can take two passengers out for a pleasant ride at an economical price.



Paris by Boat

And let us not forget the sightseeing boat tours and the Batobus.

From discoverfrance.net: "For the past half-century, perhaps one of the most relaxing and expedient ways to view these sights in all their grandeur has been from the glass-covered decks of the bateaux-mouches, those unique long-boats leisurely plying the Seine, from whose vantage point millions of tourists have acquired their considerable appreciation for all that Paris has to offer."



In fact, there are several sightseeing boat companies that are off-handedly refered to as "bateaux mouches" - but that is the actual name of one of the companies. Click on the following link for more about the Bateaux Mouches (tm).

The relatively new Batobus is a riverboat shuttle that operates on the Seine with eight stops - at the Eiffel Tower, St-Germain-des-Prés, the Jardin des Plantes, the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay, Notre Dame, the Hotel de Ville, and the Champs-Elysées. With a one-day pass (12 euros), the tourist can get on and off as he pleases at any of the stops.

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