Ultimate Fly Fishing

The dead drift method of fly fishing with nymphs is the most effective method an angler can use. Remember, nymphs are generally at the mercy of the rivers current, and get carried wherever the current happens to take them. An angler who can simulate this "helplessness" of the nymph will be able to consistently take trout.

There are basically three different ways to accomplish a dead drift of a nymph. Each of these is covered below.

Dead Drift Method : Quartering for Wade Anglers

This is the easier of the two different dead drift nymph fly fishing methods for an wade angler to use. Basically, this method is not much different than dry fly fishing. Simply cast your nymph across AND upstream. Retrieve any excess line, throwing upstream mends as needed to allow the nymph to dead drift for as long as possible (you do not want to "drag" the nymph across the current). The mends also allow the nymph to sink to the proper depth as well.

Dead Drift Method : Direct Upstream for Wade Anglers

This is the most effective, and most difficult, of all nymph fly fishing techniques. It is also similar to dry fly fishing when you cast your fly directly upstream of where you happen to be.

This method is simply done but very difficult in practice - beginners can expect to lose many a fish. To do this method, simply cast your nymph directly upstream (and in the same current seam, if possible) from where you are standing in the water. As the nymph makes it's way back down towards you, retrieve in all excess fly line - striking the balance between allowing the nymph to have a perfectly "drag free" float while at the same time not having to much line out (which will prevent proper hook set).

Strikes on a nymph fished in this manner can occur anytime since the nymph is floating drag free. Always follow the strike indicator using this method, setting the hook immediately whenever you see the strike indicator stop momentarily in the water or suddenly change direction. With practice, you'll get a feel for what differentiates a "rock strike" from a "trout strike".

Also, don't be in to big a hurry to pick up the nymph. You can let it float right down almost to your feet (within 5-10 feet), assuming you didn't make too much of a commotion during your wading (thus scaring away all the fish near you). Remember, trout will be facing against the current waiting for their food to arrive - and you'll be downstream from them. Thus, they won't see you unless you make lots of noise to let them know that you are there.

The other reason you want the nymph to continue floating towards you is because you want to nymph to come up from the bottom of the river a bit - which simulates an emerging insect. As the nymph gets closer to you, simply raise the rod tip a bit. This will bring the nymph off the bottom of the river and put it in a gradual, but still downstream, incline towards the surface.

Once you pick up the fly, you will then want to wade just a bit to your right or left, then make another cast, allowing the nymph to dead drift through another spot in the river that is just a bit away from where your nymph previously floated through. By doing things this way, you can cover a lot of water in a hurry - in a very effective manner.

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Who else wants to pull in a bounty of big fish - Every time!
Here's how to AMAZE your friends (and maybe even make them a little bit jealous) In 'Fly Fishing Secrets' we show you how. To get your hands on these amazing insider secrets, Click Here:
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Like everything else in this world, quality matters when trout fishing. If all you will ever do is fish for small trout and pan fish, virtually any cheap fly reel will work just fine. In these situations, all a reel really does is to serve as a place to hold fly line. And even a cheap reel does this task ok.

Unfortunately, this all changes once you get a large fish on the other end of your fly line. If the fly reel you are using is not well made with precision parts, the line will come out with uneven tension or the fly reel may seize up altogether. The reason cheap fly reels are inexpensive is because of what is inside them. Most cheap reels have the cheapest types of parts that can be found. These parts break when least desirable and wear out very quickly. Remember, a fly reel has moving parts inside it. A cheap fly reel will quickly begin to wear out, often only after a year or two of moderate fishing. And it can fail miserably if you get a large fish on the end of the line.

A high quality fly reel will truly last a lifetime. A good quality fly reel, while it may not last a lifetime, will last many, many years and will provide reliable duty in the field. A very high quality fly reel will run around two hundred dollars or more. A good quality fly reel will be in the hundred-dollar range. A cheap fly reel will be less than fifty dollars. To me, at least, it makes sense to spend a little bit more now so that you don't end up having to buy another reel two years down the road or to have a fishing trip ruined by malfunctioning gear.

Another thing to keep in mind about fly reels is how resistant they are to corrosion. While this is vitally important in saltwater fishing, it is still important in freshwater fishing.
A cheap fly reel has often nothing more than a cheap coat of paint on it that soon wears off. Once that's gone the reel will frequently start developing rust spots, among other things. A very high quality fly reel will resist all forms of rust and corrosion. We're now familiar with quality issues on fly reels and you should be familiar with the different types of drag systems on a fly reel. Armed with that knowledge, it is time to move on to the type of retrieve a fly reel offers.

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Who else wants to pull in a bounty of big fish - Every time!
Here's how to AMAZE your friends (and maybe even make them a little bit jealous) In 'Fly Fishing Secrets' we show you how. To get your hands on these amazing insider secrets, Click Here: Fly Fishing Secrets - www.fly-fishing-secrets.com

Well, if you've read this far, you should have a good knowledge about fly lines. But, let's sum things up.

1. Fly Line Weight - The weight of a fly line should be the same as the weight of your fly rod and fly reel. Using the wrong weight fly line will unbalance a fly rod, leading to poor casting and long days on the water.

2. Fly Line Taper - The taper of a fly line refers to enhancements made to the fly line to provide better casting. The most popular taper is the weight-forward taper, which is the ideal fly line for beginner. The weight forward taper fly line is also the most versatile line available.

3. Fly Line Density - The density of a fly line refers to whether the line sinks or not. A floating fly line should always be the first line used by beginners as it is the most versatile as well as the easiest to cast. Other fly lines that sink all have their uses, though, so more experienced anglers - especially those that fish in lakes, saltwater or subsurface with nymphs, should also pick up a sinking fly line that meets their fishing needs.

4. Fly Line Color - For top water fly fishing, get a fly line that is easy for you to see in all fishing conditions.

Fly Lines for Fly Fishing

The fly line, along with the tippets and leaders used, is really important in fly fishing. Unlike in traditional spin casting, when fly fishing, it is the weight of the fly line that allows for proper casting. Use the wrong fly line weight and you can amusingly watch your flies land all over the place. Even worse, when you use a cheap or worn out fly line, you can also watch your sinking line submerge your dry flies.

For these reasons, having a good fly line, can literally make the difference between a productive day on the water and one of frustration.

Fly Lines, Leaders & Tippets Categories

Floating Fly Lines : Product listings of quality fly lines that float. Remember, floating fly lines often work well when sub-surface fly fishing too! Floating fly lines, as the name suggest, float. In addition, by putting some light weights on the leader, floating fly lines also work quite well for many sub-surface fishing. For this reason, floating fly lines are the most popular fly line used by anglers.

Sinking Fly Lines : Sinking fly lines, as the name suggest, sink. How sinking fly lines actually sink, though, changes from line to line. An sinking tip fly line only sinks at the tip of the line, while a full sinking fly line will sink along it's full length at a rate determined by it's sink rate (measured in inches per second, or ips)

About the author:
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Who else wants to pull in a bounty of big fish - Every time!
Here's how to AMAZE your friends (and maybe even make them a little bit jealous) In 'Fly Fishing Secrets' we show you how. To get your hands on these amazing insider secrets, Click Here:
http://www.fly-fishing-scerets.com

Dirty fly line is a recipe for bad casting. So clean your line to provide for better casts and longer fly line life. Fly lines need to be cleaned for best casting. Additionally, by cleaning your fly lines, you'll greatly extend the life of the line - saving you money as well as time and hassle in changing out the line. And if you fly fishing for larger fish that have a tendency to pull out large amounts of fly line, don't forget about chaning out your fly line backing occasionally, too.

Fly Rods :

A fly rod is a crucial piece of equipment for fly fishing. A poor quality or wrong type of fly rod is a wonderful way to potentially ruin an otherwise fine day spent fly fishing. Having the right fly rod can make all the difference between putting fish in the net and coming away skunked. Now days the art of making fly rods has become so good that if you buy any rod for $100.00 or more will cast better than most anglers can with it..
keep in mind that buying a more expensive rod will not make you a better caster, only learning to cast will do that.

So, my point is this, if there is anyplace that an angler should not skimp on when putting together a fly fishing outfit, it is the fly rod. A good fly rod often makes the difference between precise casts and casts that are just wide of the mark. It makes the difference between being able to reach that rising trout and being just a few yards short. But also, keep in mind that practice casting also helps one become an expert angler. Having said that lets move on to choosing the right Fly rod.

Choosing the Right Fly Rod

Although there is a common belief that if you spend more on fly fishing gear, you'll get more. There are two sides to this story. As with anything else you purchase, there is value and there is perceived value. Simply put, value is what you actually get out of the money you spend and perceived value is what you think you will get out of it. Whatever you decide is up to you and what you can afford. My personal favorite is cabelas, I included the link for you to take a look. I am not advertising them, I only want you to take a look as a point of reference, and check out as many other places as you like, but find one you like and one that fits comfortably in your hand.

Don't be intimidated by all the special terminology used by fly fishermen. For the most part, the terms are there for a reason and will help you be more specific when narrowing down your decisions and your gear.

Your first piece of sporting equipment should be your fly rod.
Fly fishing is much easier and much more enjoyable when your fly rod is properly matched to the type of fishing you will be doing. The two main considerations you must think about are the length of the rod and the weight of the fly line. Fly line weight can be described as the diameter and density of the line.
For optimal performance, it must match the fly rod you will be using. Here is a general guideline to help you choose the proper fly rod.

Fly Rod Length

For fishing tight spots such as small streams and creeks with overhanging brush and minimal casting space, a shorter rod in the 6' - 7'6" class is ideal for these conditions. A shorter rod will make your day much more enjoyable and allow you to effectively fish these areas without donating too many flies to Mother Nature. Medium length rods in the 8' - 8 ½' range can be used on medium-sized streams and small rivers or any time when long distance casts are not the norm. These rods can still be used on larger, more open waters, but don't expect to achieve maximum casting performance to reach those rise forms across the river.

In situations when long casts are required, such as fishing large rivers, fishing from a float tube, or fishing from the shore, a longer rod is necessary. Longer rods also make mending your line a much easier task. This is true because the longer rods will allow you to hold more line off the water. For float tube fishing or deep wading, a 9' rod is needed to cast effectively because of your low position in the water. Many float tubers even opt for longer rods in the 9'6" - 10' lengths.
The more line you can hold off and away from the water, the better you will be able to pick up line and cast.

About the author:
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Who else wants to pull in a bounty of big fish - Every time!
Here's how to AMAZE your friends (and maybe even make them a little bit jealous) In 'Fly Fishing Secrets' we show you how. To get your hands on these amazing insider secrets, Click Here:
http://www.fly-fishing-scerets.com

For those of you who, like me, have memories of fishing that pre-date memories of school, think back to as many fishing partners and trips as you can. Even those people you only went fishing with once. Then try to recall times where the success or failure of a fly fisherman seemed to lie strictly on the fly fisherman's confidence. If you think about it in these terms, I bet you can remember numerous times, when an angler's, confidence or lack thereof, either doomed them or buoyed then until they started catching fish. At times the success of a confident fly fishing angler can be attributed to persistence.
An angler, confident in their abilities is just going to fish longer when things don't start hopping right away. But other days when all things are equal, the fisherman with the most confidence often catches the most fish.

Three quick stories come to mind illustrate this. First off let me say there have been plenty of times when I have been on both sides of the confidence equation. A few years ago, I was steelheading with a couple of fly fishing buddies. Unlike me, though there guys weren't purists. And we were using terminal gear. Although were just dead-drifting jigs, very similar to fly fishing, I felt about as coordinated as a monkey performing brain surgery. As the day wore on more and more steelies were caught. Huge steelies, the biggest I had ever seen! None by me.
I could feel my confidence shrinking. And I mean my confidence in all kinds of things, like being able to read the river, being able to detect a strike. Things that had no connection to me using unfamiliar gear. The pressure inside my head built, until I HAD to catch a fish. I didn't catch one fish that day, although I finally had a strike, and set the hook so hard I jerked it right out of the fish's mouth. And I fished longer and harder than anyone else on the trip.

Another story is almost reverse. Here in Maupin, the Deschutes River fills with fly fisherman every May and early June for the Giant Salmonfly hatch. It is a carnival of fly fishing. One year I was drifting with a couple of accomplished angler's, who were nevertheless apprehensive about fishing such a well-known hatch, A hatch documented throughout fly fishing literature. With crowds of angler's as spectators to one another. Despite all the drift boats and bank angler's I know a spot or two constantly overlooked and are rarely fished.

I set both guys up with the exact rigging I use. Put them in the best two spots and made lunch, while they flogged the water to no avail. Despite their long fishing experience they were unaccustomed to the big water and the feeling of being in a spotlight, and seemed to do every action with uncertainty. After lunch I nailed numerous trout with virtually no effort. Pointed out fish lying behind rocks and caught them. It was a display they still talk about some years later.

Another day I was fishing alone, in water I know like the palm of my hand. And was getting skunked. Fishing all my usual water, using all my usual techniques I couldn't even get a strike. Yet I knew I could and did catch fish in this spot, lots of fish. I kept at it, until I heard a fish jump behind me, in a riffle I hadn't fished in years. I turned around and cast right at the head of the riffle, and nailed what was to be the first of many beautiful trout I caught that day.

If I hadn't been confident in my abilities, and in the water holding fish, I would have stopped long before. That was an instance where confidence led to perseverance. But the other two days, it seemed to be confidence only, that led to more fish being landed. Maybe there was something subtle in the presentation of the confident angler, something that can't be taught. Like the way some quarterbacks always seem to win. Or maybe like in other endeavors confident people just seem to do better. At any rate the only way I know of to develop confidence is through repeated success. And in fishing the only way to catch fish is to do more fishing.

If you are thinking this is all a stretch, I bet you can come up with very similar stories that have happened to you. Especially if like me, you have been fishing since you had a Leave it to Beaver lunch box. Give yourself the possibility that confidence in your fishing ability does play a role, in your catch rate.
And the end result will be you spend more time fishing. And if that is the end result of you reading this article, then it was time well spent. Now let's go out there and build up our fly fishing confidence!

About the author:
Cameron Larsen is a retired commericial fly tier and fly fishing guide. He now operates The Big Y Fly Company.
Http://www.bigyflyco.com. He can be reached at info@bigyflyco.com. The above article will appear in the Big Y Fly Fishing E-Zine at Http://www.bigyflyco.com/Bigyflyfishingezine.html