Who is Gordon Ramsay

Gordon Ramsay New York

What do the critics think?

Mr. Ramsay is probably England's most famous chef, draped in Michelin stars. His arrival in Manhattan reflects his continuing global expansion - he's also in Tokyo, also in Dubai - while looking forward to the seemingly inevitable day when your top-tier restaurant choices in a major destination on one continent are much the same as those in a major destination on another.

The cauliflower beignets in an appetizer of caramelized sea scallops were adorable, but they were playing cameos in a dish whose stars turned in dutiful, forgettable performances. Among roughly eight appetizer selections on the prix fixe menu most nights, the only bold standout was red mullet, served as pan-fried fillets that were framed and tamed perfectly by the brightness, acidity and sweetness of a pink grapefruit vinaigrette.

Among a similar number of entrees, there was a similar dearth of inspiration. While chorizo and artichoke lent plenty of personality to a beautifully roasted fillet of black bass, a bitter chocolate sauce and a beet fondant didn't jazz up slices of venison loin quite as much as they needed to. The dish's music remained faint.

And there were a few off-putting concoctions, like a cloying, gummy wedge of turbot poached in St. Émilion and a bizarre appetizer combining delicate little langoustine tails with indelicate nuggets of boneless chicken wing, crusted with hazelnuts and sweetened with maple syrup. Eric Ripert, meet Colonel Sanders.

The best desserts by the pastry chef, Alistair Wise, were terrific: a tarte Tatin with crisp pastry, and a flawless apricot soufflé with sugary almonds and almond ice cream.

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