The Groomed and Tailored Man

2 Suits:
Navy and Charcoal ones (pinstripes optional, lads)

4 Pairs of Shoes:*
Athletic Shoes (only for the gym)
Sneakers (Addidas, Polo Ralph Lauren, Diesel)
Oxfords
Loafers/Slip Ons/Drivers (for semi-casual wear)

*if you love a pair of work shoes...and I mean love...buy 2 pairs. Daily use will wear them down quicker than when you alternate your use between 2 pairs

Shoe Trees:
Absorb moisture from your shoes, make them last longer.

2 Belts

3 types of dress shirts:
A solid white (see more below)
A solid blue
A striped shirt

Polos:
If you're heavyset, no horizontal stripes. Just get something good from Ralph Lauren.

Graphic Tees:
Now...these can either be stylish...or you'll look dorky...or you'll look like a bro. You want to aim for trendy. That means no skulls, no references to dorky things, and no hawks...

Dark Blue Jeans

Underwear (see more below)

Ties (see more below)

A Good Watch:
Beyond a wedding ring (if they can tame you), this will be your only jewelry. No matter what, watches really accent confidence. It makes you look richer (and it can be affordable. See Super Target.)

A Wool Coat:
Leave the windbreaker to coaches. Purchase a wool charcoal coat and it'll match plenty. Feel free to get a leather jacket if you want, big spender.

So beyond the essentials we need to talk style.

This is very personal to you. It's not about following the latest trends - you may look unique when none of your coworkers wear vests, but your personality might not be so sartorial.

Are you a hat person? I don't know, but you should try.

Explore. With some discretion, you'll risk nothing by testing a look at a party.

Find inspiration. Don't let the current trends be a cookie cutter, but look for some inspirations. It can be an idol, art, an era revisited, a culture. Let this world inspire you and your clothing.

Shop local. Skip the mall, try to find the nearest designer. It's going to be pricey, but you'll have something very unique.

///The Extras///

Cuff Links:
A subtle addition to your suit.

Hats:
Yes, even cowboy hats can make a statement. I love fedoras.

Shoes:
Urban Outfitters has some unique footwear.

Vests (ahem, not the sweater kind)

Many of these brands offer styles to every aged man, but some brands are a better fit for your age. So act it, and suit up with the best brands for you.

///20s///
Psycho Bunny
J Crew
Lacoste
D&G
Prada
Diesel
Express Men
Guess
Calvin Klein
Urban Outfitters

///30s///
Banana Republic
Gap
Kenneth Cole
Hugo Boss
Cantebury of New Zealand
Fred Perry
John Varvatos

///40s///
Banana Republic
Cole Haan
Brioni
Ralph Lauren
Tommy Hilfihger

///50s///
Allen Edmonds
Burberry
Tommy Bahama
Harold's
Brooks Brothers

Make sure everything fits you correctly. Here are some simple guidelines while shopping.

///Shirts///

Pay attention to where the shoulder seam lands on you.

A good dress shirt will be labeled with your neck size and arm-length. That is more "tailored" than a shirt labeled medium with a slim-fit.

Vintage fit, slim-fit, tailored-fit means that the waste is smaller. This looks great if you've got the bod. If not see above or purchase a shirt with a classic fit.

///Pants///

Avoid bulges. Your pants need room in the crotch.*

*But you're going to avoid pleats.

Pay attention to the rise, too. If it's too long you're going to get that awkward fabric-bulge...and then it might as well be your junk...

///Suits///
Suits need to be tailored. There is no reason not to tailor a suit. It's usually $30-$50 more...and it will look fantastic on you.

///Quality///

I used to only drop $15 on a tie. If it cost more than $15, and I'd be insulted by the brand.

I mean...it's a tie, right?

Well expensive ties will most often be hand-folded. This is an important factor in how good your tie looks. The folding actually affects how it hangs from your collar.

More importantly it can affect how you look. We gents don't get a lot of room to bedazzle...for good reason. But the tie can accent a great suit and dress shirt.

So, spend a little more. You'll be buying quality.

///On the Other Hand///

Sometimes a $400 tie isn't necessary. While ties add flair, they're still limited. Invest in good suits more than ties.

///Underwear///

No boxers...
Even though stores like J Crew and Banana have boxers, do not purchase them.

No briefs...
You're no longer 8.

Boxer Briefs. Yes.
Get some gray cotton boxer briefs for day-to-day wear, and then lay down some dough on some BBs from Calvin Klein (much softer for those intimate moments).

Boxer Briefs will always provide you support, eliminating the bulk you get with boxers. Plus, they're more flattering and mature-looking.

///Undershirts///

Avoid wife beaters. If you're heavyset, avoid it even more.

Avoid round neck tees.

All you need is a v-neck. Remember undershirts are to keep sweat from getting on your good threads. Wife beaters lack coverage, and round neck tees can peek out from polos.

///The Wet Shave///

Lemme take a guess...

You've probably been slapping some shaving gel on your whiskers and going at it with a three-blade razor.

That's ok, but you can treat your skin better. I'm going to introduce the wet shave to you.

It's a simple idea: No gels, just a layer of warm water and shave cream (with the right ingredients). This allows the razor to glide across your skin.

That = wonderful.

This process will make shaving easier.

///Tools///

Shaving Brush

This brush will create a hot water lather, and the brush will exfoliate your skin before the shave.

You need to invest in a brush made of badger hair. The boar's hair will tempt you because of price , but the badger hair creates a quicker lather, lasts longer, and applies an even lather.

Brush Stand

If your brush dries standing, it'll lose its shape. Then you'll need to drop another $25. Stands are pricey, but you don't want to keep losing money over brushes.

Razor

The pros use saftey razors, but as a beginner, it's best to stick to your current razor. If you want, you'll get around to that safety razor.

Shaving Cream

It's important not to use a gel. Use a soap or cream, and creams with eucalyptus and sandalwood are best on your skin.

///The Process///

Take a shower. The hot water will open your pores and soften your bristles. No time for a shower? warm a towel with hot water (not scalding), and then place on your stubble.

Don't dry your face.

Get a small tub or mug. Put a nickel-sized amount in your container, wet your brush with hot water, and use the brush to create a lather in the mug.

Once the lather is creamy, apply to your face in a circular motion. Just massage the lather onto your skin, letting the bristles exfoliate your skin.

Wet your razor, and then shave with the grain of your hairs. I find it's better to use slow, long glides across the face. The fewer times the blades touch your skin, the better.

Now wash your face with warm water.

Lather up your face again, and this time glide across the grain of your hairs.

Advance shavers can add a third shave, going against the grain.

I'm color blind - I sometimes mix colors - but I'm smart enough to know the basics in matching shoes to suits.

///Black Leather///

Most men own black oxfords. They own them for good reason. Your black dress shoes will go with everything except a brown suit. This includes Navy, Charcoal, Light Grays.

///Brown Leather///

What color suits do brown wingtips go with?

I personally leave my brown leather for casual clothing. But a brown wingtip looks so cool and sophisticated. It's ok. You can dress it up or down.

Your wingtips can go with khakis and dress shirt, no coat. Or you can be bold and put them with a navy suit. It's best to shop for a brown suit that looks great with those shoes.

I recommend dressing casually with them, and then go shopping for a suit. Find something that looks good.

///Suede///

I'm going to be more strict with suede - shop casual. Your asking for a tough situation with suede oxfords in a light or strange color.

If it's a dark brown suede, just follow the rules above. Everything else, good luck.