The Virgin's Guide To Gunks Climbing

The Shawangunk Ridge extends from the northernmost point of New Jersey to the Catskill Mountains, but it is the high-point section of the ridge in Ulster County, NY which has become synonymous with the term "The Gunks." It is here, on land now owned primarily by the Mohonk Preserve, that climbers the world over travel to for what is arguably one one of the most well known climbing destinations of the world.

For many, the approach to Shawangunks climbing begins with a flight into one of the New York Metro airports. From there, transportation by rental car, bus, train or some combination thereof brings one to the ridge.

For international arrivals, the airport of choice is likely to be John F. Kennedy Airport in Jamaica, Queens, southeast of New York City. As well, this may be the best option for travelers flying in from parts of the U.S. LaGuardia Airport, also in Queens but slightly closer to Manhattan, offers another option for U.S. and Canadian connections, which helps as one looks for the most economical and convenient flight available. Newark Liberty International Airport, another international airport, is located in New Jersey, is an option for those wishing to avoid New York City proper.

Major Airports
- JFK Airport JFK is an international airport, and also a good choice for travel between many US destinations, since it serves so many airlines. Find out all you need to know about the logistics of this airport, such as map of the airport, information on getting taxi service, bus, rental cars and such.

- LaGuardia Airport Laguardia is the airport nearest to Manhattan and actually has a city bus going into Manhattan. Though this wouldn't be the way to go if you have backpacks and luggage, but you can't get a cheaper ride than that! This page also provides information about the airport logistics and ground transportation.

- Newark Liberty International Airport Newark Airport is also provides international flights, and may be an option for those wishing to avoid the metro New York City traffic. The location is in New Jersey. You can bus into Manhattan if you are going ti bus up to New Paltz, but for those who are using a rental car, Newark has quick highway access to get you headed upstate and climbing!

Bus and Train Between Airports and Manhattan
JFK Airport Train - AirTrain JFK is the train service that operates between JFK International Airport, Long Island Rail Road trains and New York City Subway. It also serves as an on-airport service connecting the airline terminals, rental car facilities, hotel shuttles, and airport parking lots. The AirTrain JFK web page provides detailed information on schedules, destinations, fares and other information.

- Airport Bus Service This is a cost-effective way to get from either JFK, LaGuardia or Newark airports into mid-town Manhattan. Service runs from between about 5:30am through about 11:00PM. Fare run between $12-$15 one way. If you then want to continue your trip via a bus up to New Paltz, choose the Port Authority drop off(See Bus information below).

- Taxi Service - The above airports all have taxi service that can take you just about wherever you want to go. Compared to the other options, it is clearly more expensive(between $45 and $60 for New York City destinations), but the convenience factor is a reason many would go the taxi route. If you have more than one in your party, of course the cost per person decreases, making the option more attractive.

Airport Rental Cars
The above airports all have many car rental service options available nearby. The airport links above do have information on the companies that have bases there, and you can also check directly with your car rental company of choice. Once you have gone through Baggage Claim, look around for the signs that will direct you to either Car Rental Help Desks, or Shuttle Busses which will take you to the Rental Agency.

More Airport Options
- Stewart International Airport is a very small airport with few options on flights and car rental options, but it's proximity to the Gunks may just make it the perfect choice for you. Located in Newburgh, NY, the airport is less than an hours drive from the cliffs! Public transportation from Stewart is too much of a hassle to make it worthwhile, but there is a taxi service in the airport which you could use to get a ride to the cliffs. Likely the cost would be a considerable amount(at least $60, if not more) and being a small airport, taxi service may not be ready and waiting at your disposal. Still, if you use a rental car, you avoid the entire "big airport" issue, as well as time lost to traffic concerns.

- Albany International Airport is a possible option for those who just cannot stomach the idea of the New York City Metro area. Rental Cars are available. You can also use Adirondack Trailways Bus Service to catch a ride to New Paltz, though you would need to get from the airport to the bus terminal to do so. Check the link under the "Parking and Ground Transportation" for information.

Bus Service Between New York City and New Paltz(also between Albany and New Paltz)
- Trailways is the better option for bus service, though Greyhound also offers service between New York City, or Albany and New Paltz.
Trailway's New York City terminal is located in the Port Authority Bus Station on 8th Ave. between 40th & 41st Street.
Fares as of March, 2010 are $19.50 One Way, and $39.00 Round Trip.

Greyhound has a ticket counter right next door to the Trailways terminals in New York City and Albany will get you to New Paltz via the Trailways service. They also have a location at 34th Street in New York City connecting to the Penn Station Railroad. The bus stop is located outside, on the northwest corner of 34th Street and 8th Avenue. If you happen to be traveling to New York City via Amtrak - this would be your closest option, BUT the time schedule is very limited. You may as well walk or taxi the few blocks up to Port Authority, and get on the Trailways bus.

Train Service from Manhattan and Other Points to Poughkeepsie
If you have a dog along, don't despair! You CAN take him or her with you! On the Metro North Railroad anyway. This is also an idea to consider if you have a bicycle as your mode of transportation. Both are allowed. Poughkeepsie IS about 20 miles from New Paltz, and the transportation options are taxi service or riding that bike. But, at least the option exists.
- Amtrak also offers service to Poughkeepsie, though they do NOT allow dogs on the train! Bikes, I do not know - better check. Of course, Amtrak has destinations throughout the United States, so if you have some sort of Amtrak pass, or just cannot fly, it is certainly a consideration, if you simply MUST get to the Gunks! One important thing to know is that Amtrak does not seem to be able to stay on schedule, at least for departures from Poughkeepsie. I have seen delays of more that 90 minutes as a regular weekend occurrence, so keep that in mind if you are using Amtrak to make a connection departure. The good news is that Metro North is at the same terminal, with much better service, and in a pinch, you could at least use that to get into Manhattan(if, for example, you were trying to get to the airport as your connection).

New Paltz is the most convenient town to Shawangunks climbing. But you're still not there yet, and your options are fairly limited if you haven't got your own transportation. A taxi (cost about $20 One Way) and hitching a ride are pretty much your choices.

Taxi Service
To get a taxi, you'll go to the Trailways Bust Station, at 139 Main Street. telephone Number (845) 255 - 6520. You can call ahead to book a car, if you know when you'll be arriving. The problem with the taxi is that New Paltz is a very small town with limited need for the service. You won't be able to just arrive at the bus station and have a line of taxi's waiting. You may wait an absurdly long time for a taxi to become available.

I have seen taxi's driving around New Paltz with company logos that are not the one at the bus terminal, but I really can't say any more, as I have never looked into them. Posting the contact information to this page may become outdated by the time you need the service. You might try doing an internet search of "New Paltz, NY + taxi companies" as you plan your trip, and making the calls to see if the company can help you out.

Hitching a Ride
The other way to get to the cliffs is to simply ask someone for a ride! Strange as this may seem, it is far from an unheard of situation in New Paltz, which has a long, proud history of dirbag rock climbers trying to get to their objective!

If you are at the bus station and a bus from New York City has just arrived, look around for people with climbing shoes and ropes hanging off their backpacks, or people standing next to cars who look like they might be a climber and are waiting for their partner to get off the bus. Ask if they are going to the cliffs, and if so, would they be able to squeeze you in. Hopefully, they will be able to do it.

Another place to look for rides is at Rock and Snow, the local climbing gear shop. Located at 44 Main Street in downtown New Paltz, the store is almost always busy with people. People who climb. People who are either headed to the cliffs, or just might take heart and give you a ride out there even though they just got back themselves.... As people come out of the shop, ask if they are headed to the cliffs, and soon enough, you'll get your ride.

I DO believe that actual hitchhiking on the street is illegal. But I got to tell you - that never stopped me. And I am a girl! In the autumn of 2009, I like across the ridge in a cabin and had no car. I would hitch hike between the cliffs and New Paltz at least once every single week, and oftentimes more. Getting TO the cliffs, I would walk west, out of town on Main Street(also called Hwy 299) and just past the big bridge. There is a section alongside the road that is quite wide, so cars can safely pull over. Thins to keep in mind - At night, they simply will not see you. It is awful. Believe me, I know.

The other thing is that there is a turn to the north that comes up fairly quickly after the bridge(maybe 50 yards past the bridge). Traffic is divided fairly equally between turning off onto that road and continuing straight west(which is the way YOU want to go). Therefore, I stand close enough to that turn off to make things easier for all concerned. First, the driver has more time to see me once they have crossed the bridge. Second - if they are turning, they might be gracious enough to use their signal, and then I don't have to stick out my thumb, asking for the ride. Third, I do leave enough space between me and the turn that, when somebody DOES pull over, they have plenty of room to do so and not be in the way of the turn.

When someone stops, they usually will take you all the way to the cliffs. But sometimes they are turning off the road you need beforehand. I generally will tell them I appreciate their stopping, but prefer to catch a ride all the way. The road gets very curvy in spots up ahead, and is not really safe to hitch rides from. Drivers will not want to risk stopping, and they also won't have long to spot you and decide whether they even WANT to stop. As well, if they come upon you at the same time a car is oncoming.... guess who is going to get the squeeze? YOU!

Your ride from town takes you west on HWY 299 for about 6 miles, until the road ends at the T intersection with HWY 44/55. There you turn right, and are about one mile from the cliffs. Uphill. You will likely NOT get a ride from this point on, so if you NEED the ride, you are best off staying at that intersection, where cars can easily pull over. Once you begin walking, the road becomes curvy and has little to no siding. It is simply not safe to stop, and even walking sucks. You need to be aware of oncoming traffic the whole way.

Now...you CAN walk! I have. It's not that bad. And when you get past where the Mohonk Preserve Visitor Center is, you will soon approach the HairPin Turn. While you CAN keep to the road, you can also bushwack up the steep hillside to your left(west) and cut off a pretty good chunk of uphill, roadside, walking. It is a steep climb, and sort of crumbly, so take care not to lose your footing.

Walk Offs, Rap Stations, bolted and non-bolted

ADD MODULES FOR EACH CLIFF(Trapps, Nears, Skytop, Lost City, Minnewaska, and Rosendale Water Works/Potentials under something for the GCC....

First - the camping:

The MUA(Multiple Use Area) is sometimes called the "Multiple Abuse Area," due to the fact that local young, and not so young, sometimes use it as a loud party spot. And also, because there are no facilities other than a Porto-Potty, some inconsiderate people leave their trash in the camping area instead of packing it out with them.

Still, it is free camping, and a mile form the cliffs. At that price - who can really complain? The MUA is located on HWY 299, less than 1 mile from where it ends in a T intersection at HWY 44/55 in Gardiner, NY. There are small parking areas(notoriously filled with car bottom-bumping boulders - drive carefully!) on both sides of the street, but these are quickly filled, and people simply pull off the roadside and park.

The campsites are walk-in - you can not drive right up to them. The area is patrolled by ranger, and sites are designated with a metal sign affixed to a nearby tree. You will likely be woken at dawn and ticketed if you are not in a "designated site." Each campsite allows for three tents; expect to share your space with others. The MUA sites with easiest access fill up early on busy weekends, so be prepared to walk to find a place to bed down.

The Mohonk Preserve does have a Climber's Campground, situated on the Preserve,just a few minutes walk from the cliffs. Affectionately called "Camp Slime," the site is located southeast of the Steel Bridge, on HWY 44/55. You may pull into the driveway just east of the bridge and load/unload, but cars must be parked in the West Trapps Trailhead parking lot, down the road to the west, a 2-3 minute walk away.

Camp Slime is also free for climbers with a Mohonk Preserve membership or day pass. Like the MUA, is is a primitive campgrounds. There are Porta-Potties next to the Steel Bridge, and there is a trash/recycle bin at the entrance of the camping area.

There are a few choice sites, but many of them are less than stellar, and the good ones are almost always taken by early evening on a Friday. Sites are small, intended for single and two-person tents. This is not really the place to bring your 6-person palace; you simply won't find a space to set it up. There are no open fires allowed at Camp Slime, so no campfires.

CreekView Campsite is a pay-for campground located in Rosendale, NY, a twenty minuted drive from the Trapps. The address is: 227 Creek Locks Road , Rosendale, NY 12472. Tents sites are listed at $10/person per night. Campers and RV's range form $25-$25/night. Prices subject to change, naturally. CreekView is a step-up from the MUA and Camp Slime, and perhaps a better choice for family camping or a night with someone who might not see the term "dirtbag" as having a positive connotation.

For those on a budget who still like a hot shower and roof over their head at night, the New Paltz Hostel is a good option. Located in downtown New Paltz, the hostel is conveniently located next to the bus station, and near to several good restaurants and the local climbing gear shop. Rooms start at $30/night(shared).

There are a few local motels in New Paltz, but even the ones usually thought of as being an "economy" motel will run more than $100.night. There is the 87 Motel and the Super 8, located near the exit on HWY 87. Neither of these are very clean and most will agree the price is high for the quality level.

There are several Bed & Breakfasts in the surrounding area, and they are worth checking out. And at the upper end is the historic Mohonk Mountain House.

Camp Slime

MUA

Creekview - http://www.creekviewcampsite.com/

Hostel in town

Motels

Bed & Breakfast

Rock and Snow - 44 Main Street
New Paltz, NY 12561 - Telephone: (845)255-1311
Hours for Spring and Summer 2009
Monday-Thursday 9am-6pm
Friday 9am-8pm
Saturday 8am-8pm
Sunday 8am-7pm

Eastern Mountain Sports - 3124 Route 44 55, Gardiner, NY 12525 - Phone:845-255-3280

(other in town gear places)

Campmor - 810 Route 17 North , Paramus, NJ
Retail Store Info Only Call: (201) 445-5000
Retail Store Hours: Mon.-Fri. 9:30am-9:30pm, Sat 9:30am-9:00pm, Closed Sundays
Closed for Holidays: Memorial Day Independence Day, Labor Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years.

In New York Ity - Tents & Trails, Paragon, EMS, North Face, Patagonia

Propane - small cannisters difficult to get in NP!

RENTALS on SHOES, helmets and PADS

none at preserve - stream in Uberfall has been dry past two years

Visitor center - hours, tap in b/room, not best source

Purchase in town, gas station b/room tap - ew! Laundrymat....

Mountain Deli

Brahaus

Anatolia
Bacchus
The Bakery
Bistro Mountain Store
Gadaleto's
Gilded Otter
Jack's Meat & Deli
Main Street Bistro
Mexicali Blue
Mudd Puddle Cafe
Neko Sushi
P & G's
Plaza Diner
Rosendale Cafe
Yanni

ADD DISCUSSION MODULE HERE

Dick William's Guides

Swain

That New Guidebook

ADD A HIKING BOOKS MODULE, and a HISTORY?PHOTOGRAPHY OF Books module lower

Alpine Endeavors

High Xposure

Mountain Skills

EMS

Check with preserve for others

Happiegrrrl(author of this lens) runs an online shop, ClimbAddict, where you can shop for these and other climbing/outdoors-related apparel, stickers and giftware. If you enjoyed this lens and would like to show your appreciation, please consider stopping in, and if something strikes your interest, making a purchase.

"ShawangunksFirst Ascent" An ode to the first route climbed in the Gunks, this design tells that climbing was "establisjed" in 1935, via the "Old Route" in Millbrook, by Fritz Weissner, and John and Peggy Navis.This style and many more are available at the ClimbAddict shop. Click here to go directly to this design, available on t-shirts, Sigg bottles, stickers and other items.

"Chrome Wings" - A hard-rocking climbing t-shirt, the Chrome Wings design uses a segment from one of Hendrix' most remembered lyrics to bring out the essence of Gunks exposure. This style and many more are available at the ClimbAddict shop. Click here to go directly to this design, available on t-shirts, Sigg bottles, stickers and other items.

"Gunks Cutaway" - A list of many of the Gunks famous classics, with a reverse color cutaway logo "Gunks." This style and many more are available at the ClimbAddict shop. Click here to go directly to this design, available on t-shirts, Sigg bottles, stickers and other items.

"See No Beta" - The three famous monkeys, in a climbers version: See no beta, Speak no beta, Hear no beta. Climb Onsite! This style and many more are available at the ClimbAddict shop. Click here to go directly to this design, available on t-shirts, stickers and other items.

From the Climbing FAQ page at Gunks.com:

Park at the Mohonk Preserve Visitor Center or Wawarsing lot. From New Paltz, travel on Rt. 299 west for 7 miles; make a right onto Route 44-55; then go approx. 1/2 mile to the Visitor Center that will be on your right. The Wawarsing lot is another 50 yards uphill.

Alternatively, park at the West Trapps Trailhead lot about 1 mile past the Visitor Center on your right.

To access the Trapps from the Visitor Center parking lot, take the ¼-mile East Trapps Connector Trail (aka the "stairmaster") to the Undercliff Road just below and to the right of the climb Shockley's Ceiling (5.6). To get to the Nears from this same lot, hike up the road, pass the Overlook Parking lot by 100yds, and hop the guardrail following a footpath on your left.

If you park in the West Trapps lot, follow the wide, easy path at the far end of the lot to the steel bridge and port-o-potties. To reach the Nears, cross Rt 44/55 and walk downhill along the road to a footpath on your right (about 100yds before the Scenic Overlook). To climb at the Trapps, pass the toilets, hike up a small flight of stone steps and coninue down the Undercliff Rd.

Note to me:
Start with some sort of MapQuest-y info for driving.

Edit the above to reflect the general most obvious needs. mention the fee info is not correct. Add a "How Much is the Fee" section, specifically.

Add "Approach info to each of the specific areas, as pulled from the above link.

Beta
Gear
Clothing
Rentals
Museum
Slideshows
Guide Recommendations
Crappy Weather Hangout and All-Around meeting Place

Top Brass Membership

The Old Route, 5.5, Millbrook - First route climbed. 1935

Vandals, 5.13, Skytop - First 5.13