Hand Stitching Techniques

There are several ways to secure the thread when hand-sewing; the most popular way is to just tie a knot, but another way which is more secure is to secure it with a backstitch. This way you don't have a knot and it is quick and easy to secure your thread in this manner.

Simply make a stitch on the wrong side of the fabric; pull the thread through until you have a small loop. Insert your needle through the loop and pull thread through again until you have another small loop.

Insert your needle through the second loop and pull tight to secure both loops.

The slip stitch is an almost invisible stitch and is used for hemming, finishing off pillows, stuffed animals, waistbands and basically can be used anywhere where you need to make a closure that cannot be done with a sewing machine.

Working from right to left, and with the work in left hand, bring the needle and thread through one folded edge.

Then going in on the opposite side catch 1 or 2 threads, bring the needle back into the fold and slip about ¼" of material onto the needle before bringing it back out again along the same edge. Continue this method until seam is finished.

The catch stitch is used for tacking or hemming lined garments. It is a zig-zagged stitch which can be worked over the raw edges, and is worked from left to right with the needle pointing left.

Take a small stitch in the hem edge, with needle going in from the right to the left. Then moving to the right about 1/4"-1/2" take another stitch in the garment, again inserting the needle from the right and out to the left. Moving to the right again take another stitch in the hem edge inserting the needle from right to left. Continue this pattern crossing the stitches as you go along from left to right.

The blind catch stitch is worked in the same manner, only with the hem edge folded back about 1/2". The stitch catches back side of the hem to the back side of the garment. This stitch is great for knits because of its flexibility.

The blind stitch is invisible and is worked in between the hem and the garment, making it a great stitch for hemming.

To make the stitch fold the hem edge back about 1/4". Then working from right to left take a small stitch in the garment. Moving to the left about 1/4" - 1/2" take the next stitch in the hem. Continue alternating the stitches between the garment and hem.

The backstitch is one of the strongest hand stitches, and is great for seams or reinforcing seams in stressed areas of the garment such as the crotch and armhole areas. The back stitch is also great for stuffed animals and pillows.

Bring the needle and thread through to one side of the fabric. Then insert the needle a short distance behind (to the right of) where the thread came out. Bring the needle forward (to the left) on the back side, and through the fabric the same distance in front of where the thread came out.

Pull the thread through nice and snug, but not to tight as the fabric will pucker. Continue inserting the needle behind where the thread came up, and bringing it up the same distance in front.

The prickstitch is similar to the backstitch. It is used to keep facings, or linings from showing on the right of the garment. It can also be used to reinforce seams, or to add decorative details along the seamline.

To make the prickstitch bring the needle and thread through to one side of the fabric. Insert the needle about one or two fabric threads back (to the right of) where the thread came out. Bring the needle forward (to the left) on the back side, and through the fabric a short distance in front of where the thread came out.

The top stitches will look like small pricks, while the bottom stitches will be longer stitches.

The running stitch is used in hand-sewing, hand-basting, gathering, and embroidery. It can be used on straight or curved seams.

To make the running stitch simply pass the needle in and out of the fabric creating even stitches on the top and bottom. Generally the stitches on top will be twice the length or longer than the stitches on the bottom.

There is no rule on how long to make the stitches, but when using the stitch for basting you would naturally make the stitches longer for easy removal; when using the stitch to hold a seam, hem, or other alterations, then you would make the stitches shorter for firmer stitching, so the seam won't come apart.