Hawaiian Surfing History

The sea was, and still is, sacred to Hawaiians. Harnessing the power of the waves through the use of a board was considered a highly skilled craft. The better boards were made for the higher standing people, but the commoners were also allowed to make and use boards, just not of as high quality. Board making and surf riding were not complete without certain ceremonies being performed, and many of these ceremonies still take place today.

As various outside missions spread to the islands and the happy surfers were keenly observed, the missionaries branded this act as less than desirable. They tried to make riding of surfboards forbidden to the natives. Many strangers to the land also aided the missionaries in their quest to put a stop to this activity. Kept alive by certain kings, surfing continued to flourish, despite the opposition.

On the main island of Oahu, on Waikiki Beach, there will be found a statue of a man named Duke Kahanamoku, a very popular swimmer and surfer in the early 1900's. His efforts in making and keeping surfing alive by travelling the worlds beaches and giving demonstrations was instrumental in its continued acceptance.

In the winter on the island the weather never really gets cold, but it does rain a lot. The waves during those months are much bigger than they ever are in any other season. This is the season when surfing competitions take place. There are contests at various beaches, but Pipeline draws the greatest number of people due to the difficulty of riding waves there. Not only is it difficult to ride waves there, it can also be one of the most dangerous. The possibility of losing your life there is very real.

Learning how to surf isn't something that is easily learned. It takes a lot of time and practice become skilled at surfing. Once you get on your feet and are able to catch your first wave, it's possible this sport will become something you want to pursue further. If you live near the ocean, the chances are even better that you will be spending your days trying to master your board and become one with the waves.