Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy

But how do I crate train my pet? Well, all crate training is based on your dog or puppy's inherent dislike of soiling the area where they sleep. It is taught by their mother at a very young age. The beauty of this training is that because you're restricting your dog or puppy's movement of their sleeping space, they will instinctively "hold it in" until they are let out of the crate., (Of course, if you leave the animal for too long in the crate they will have no choice but to soil it). This is why it's very important that the dog or puppy's crate is sized properly. Too big, and they will use one end as their sleeping area and the other end as the toilet. This defeats the purpose of crate training! Also keep in mind that if it's too small it will be uncomfortable for the animal to relax in.

O.K. this all makes sense, but how do I choose the correct crate for my pet? There are two different schools of thought about this. Both of them work. If you're watching your budget, the most cost-effective route to take is to choose a crate that will be big enough for the adult dog to stand up comfortably without crouching, turn around in and stretch out, if you have a puppy. It should be no bigger for the adult dog so that he-she can relax comfortably, but are not able choose any part as the toilet.

Using this method, (since the adult dog is usually much larger than the puppy version), it is necessary to use a barrier to reduce the internal size of the crate. You can use a board or a wire grill. The other school of thought is simply to use the correctly sized crate from puppyhood to adulthood. This can become expensive however since you will have to buy several sizes of crates to accommodate your growing puppy. But either way is just fine.

The 64 thousand dollar question is how do I use the crate for housetraing? It works like this: your dog or pup is in his/her comfortable crate at all times except when he/she is eating, sleeping, going outside with you to potty, or is being played with (the most fun for the pet!). With this training, as with all dog training, you must be consistent or your efforts will fail. For example, you can't simply let your pet wander off around the house unless you have your complete attention on him/her. If you allow this behavior before he or she is completely house broken you're just encouraging the dog or pup to relieve itself inside the house. REMEMBER-each time he/she does this it becomes much easier for him/her to do it again (and again...and again...). It also becomes hard to break this bad habit.

Here's a sample of a morning/afternoon crate training routine:

7am: Wake up. Puppy comes outside with you for a potty break.
7:25: Breakfast time.
7:45: Back outside for another potty break, accompanied by you.
7:50-8:45: Puppy is out of the crate for playtime with you.
8:45: Outside with you for another potty break.
8:50-11:00: Puppy goes back in the crate for a nap.
11:00: Puppy comes outside with you for a potty break.
11:05-12:30pm: Puppy is out of the crate to play and be petted and cuddled by you.
12:30: Lunch time.
12:45: Puppy goes outside with you for a potty break.
1:00-3:30: Puppy goes back in the crate for a nap.

Of course when you are crate training an older dog you won't need to go outside that much for potty breaks. And you can adapt this schedule to accommodate your lifestyle. Just be consistent!

Crate training normally takes one to two months. This depends on the amount of time you spend on the training process, and also the breed of the dog. As your puppy grows older, you can get away with starting to spend less time on the training process. BUT BEWARE! Don't do this too soon!

For more information about solving dog behavioral problems visit us here!

These are two training tips that are good to know

1.) Your dog or puppy probably won't be too happy about going into the crate for the first couple of times. He/she wants to be free, be petted, cuddled and played with by you.
But this first step is necessary for your pets' own good and even for his/her safety. Don't worry, your dog or puppy will accept the crate in a surprisingly short time. He/she will soon learn that the crate is his/hers own personal haven where they can go to relax and sleep with no interruptions. (Unless of course it involves coming out to play with you!). It is important to persevere in this necessary first step. Don't respond to whining, crying, or barking.

2.) To teach your pet the first step in going into his/her crate, show your pup or dog a treat that he/she loves, and give the command "in your crate!". Walk over to the crate, throw the treat into the crate, and when he/she enters the crate, lock the door. Then praise him/her profusely telling them what a good girl or boy you are!, in a happy, excited voice. Your pet will soon get the hang of it.

You should place your dog or pup's crate in the hub of the household. Usually it will be the kitchen or den, or anywhere the family congregates. He or she should still feel like part of the household even when the pet is in its crate. It is important that the dog/puppy should not feel isolated or excluded.

Your dog or puppy's crate should be an inviting, welcoming place for him/her to go to. Make sure there's a comfy rug or bed in the crate. You can even place a couple of your pet's favorite toys in the crate, especially if you have a puppy. A few chew toys are also great to put in the crate. The door should be open at all times, unless of course you're in the training process, or it's nighttime (if you don't want your pet wandering around the house while you're sleeping). Of course during these times the door must be securely shut. Make sure your pet is in there!

Here are some important potty facts about puppies that will come in handy:

a) A puppy's bladder and bowels are small and weak, so they have only a very small window of opportunity between knowing that they need to go, and having this need become an actual and immediate reality. So, it's imperative that you take your puppy outside as soon as soon as he wakes up. He'll let you know that he/she need to go potty by whining and even pawing the crate door. Your older dog should also be let out as soon as he/she wakes up. Your puppy should also be taken out within 10 minutes of eating or playing.

b) Some behaviors that indicate that your puppy needs to go outside to potty include sniffing the ground and circling. Again, because a puppy's organs are small, they won't exhibit these warning signs for very long! As soon as he/she starts this behavior, immediately take the pet outside. (Better an unnecessary trip to the yard than a wet patch or pile on the carpet!).

c) The maximum amount of time that a puppy can be crated at one time is figured out like this: the age of the puppy plus one. Therefore, a three month old puppy can be crated for four hours max. But remember that this is the maximum time. The puppy will become uncomfortable emotionally and psychologically. Not to mention that her/his bladder or bowels will start to scream to tell the puppy that he/she needs to go. The puppy will be very uncomfortable waiting. You should take your pup outside at least once every two hours during the day. If the puppy is sleeping, just let him/her sleep until they wake up. Of course an older dog can be left in a closed crate much longer, and will safely sleep throughout the night with no problems.

These are the basic concepts of Crate Training Your Dog. Apply these rules to your dog or puppy training and watch your successful results!