HOWTO: Fix Broken Christmas Lights Quickly

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Ranked #644 in How-To, #6,696 overall

The Quick Way to Find the Blown Bulb in a String of Christmas Lights

Broken fairy lights are frustrating and it can take hours to fix them.

This year, when about to put up the Christmas lights, I spotted that one set would not turn on and had a brainwave for fixing them. Have a look below for a poor chap faced with the ultimate Christmas light nightmare - 91,000 lights - it took him 7 hours!

What could have taken me hours took only minutes.
How can this be done faster?

Check them before putting them up 

Okay - first tip - check them BEFORE putting them up. Plug them in, make sure they light.

It is much easier to diagnose and fix a bulb or any other problem this way. Having to trace them around a tree or window, or having to take them down after already putting them up will only add to frustration later.

Try the Light Keeper 

This tool is reported to make diagnosing Christmas light issues even easier and quicker by telling if current is flowing through a bulb without even having to remove it.

Light Keeper Pro-The Complete Tool For Fixing Your Christmas Lights

Amazon Price: $18.97 (as of 11/26/2009)Buy Now

The Light Keeper Pro is an inexpensive tool that allows broken lights to be quickly found, has slots for a few spares and can be used to fix some problems like oxidised shunts on older lights.

Should you buy new lights? 

Lights can last for many years as long as you replace the bulbs and check the fuses, however, old lights will not be very energy efficient and maybe making your Christmas more expensive than it need be. Modern LED based lights very rarely need changing.

So do you go for modern lights - and saving electricity, or for fixing the old lights and saving landfill/waste?

Fix the old ones or buy new ones?

Loading Fetching blurbs now... please stand by

Fix the old ones

Chad Storie says:

FIx the old ones of course! The best part of decorating for Christmas is going through the old lights and figuring which ones work and don't. That was my bonding time with my father.

aj2008 says:

Fix them! Lets all do our bit to keep the rubbish out of landfill sites!

KimGiancaterino says:

I gave my old ones away and now buy LED lights which are higher quality and seem to last longer. Like you, I don't like to waste things.

dannystaple says:

Although new energy efficient ones are a good idea for the long term, I would still fix these and use them or pass them on via Freecycle. There is little point in wasting something that still works. Anyway, I enjoy fixing stuff - it is pretty much a hobby to me.

Buy new ones

GypsyPirate says:

If your lights are giving you problems, there is an argument to be made to 'donate' the old ones and purchase some energy efficient ones.

 

Ideas for new lights 

If you are going to buy new lights - consider these.

Mult Color Changing RBG 100 LED Christmas Light string

Amazon Price: $18.00 (as of 11/26/2009) Buy Now

100 LED C-5 Holiday Christmas Lights (MULTI Color)

Amazon Price: $23.79 (as of 11/26/2009) Buy Now

Soft area 

When you are checking them, you will probably want to lay them out.

Bulbs are fragile. I have a hard wooden floor and bulbs can and will be broken if put on it. So while checking them, put something slightly soft under it - like an old sheet or something, and save breaking a bulb that was not before and have glass on the floor, one of which will slow you down, and the other is quite dangerous.

Important for your safety

Not so fast!
!It is imperative that you unplug them before doing any further checks. It is far too easy to get electrocuted while poking around a string of Christmas lights with a dud bulb - so for your own safety, please turn off and unplug the set completely before progressing. It is just not worth risking your life for.

Still want to skip on? 

Okay, you hit my little road block - but you must always stop at the safety bit. I cannot have any readers doing themselves in following this guide.

Skip to finding the blown bulb quickly.

Footwear 

Another thing is to have footwear - although the soft area should ensure none break, you cannot yet be sure that there is not a broken bulb already. Wear some footwear to ensure that if there are tiny slivers of glass from them, they do not embed themselves in your foot!

Whatever you do, keep your Christmas a safe one!

Look for obviously missing bulbs 

If one is gone- first look for a visibly missing bulb - this may seem like an obvious tip, but if you didn't you will kick yourself when you get to it.

If there are a lot of bulbs, this may be as hard to find as a blown bulb, so you can skip this step - but do take a glance for any obviously missing ones. Keeping eyes open is always a good step for solving problems.

Series circuits 

Now the reason that one blown, missing or otherwise broken bulb can take out the whole string of lights is down to the way they are wired. Christmas lights are often wired in series - so they complete a circuit. Electricity needs a source, called "Live" when talking mains, and a destination, called "Neutral" in mains. In AC positive and negative are not used, as the actual potential of live alternates during usage.

If you look at the lights carefully, you will see that one line goes straight through to the last bulb, and although it is intertwined with the cable going in and out of each bulb, it does not. The other line connects into each bulb, and comes out the other end. So if a bulb is missing, the electricity cannot complete the circuit. This is why they all do not light.

A closer look at the light circuit 

If you look at the lights carefully, you will see that one line goes straight through to the last bulb, and although it is intertwined with the cable going in and out of each bulb, it does not. The other line connects into each bulb, and comes out the other end. So if a bulb is missing, the electricity cannot complete the circuit. This is why they all do not light.

Circuit Tester 

To get ahead of this game, you are going to need some kind of circuit tester - this is not an expensive or hard to find piece of kit, don't worry.

If you have a multi-meter or continuity tester, either will come in handy here.

 

Using a continuity tester

The continuity tester is the easiest of these. It will simply be two probes (one for each end of the area under test), a battery, and an indicator of some kind - either a light or a buzzer (sometimes both).

To use one, you just need to turn it on, and then touch the probes to the contacts at either end of an area under test. The indicator should turn on to show there is continuity - no breaks - in the area under test. To ensure your continuity tester works - touch the probes together and it should indicate a complete circuit.

 

Multimeter

These are somewhat harder to use than a continuity sensor, but handy if you already have one.

Your multimeter may already come with a continuity check setting. Otherwise, I tend to find the resistance check at 2k is just fine.

Again, you touch the probes to the area under test and then observe the result.

If using the continuity check, there is often a red light and beeper. Also a digital display will flip from 0 to 1.

If you are using the resistance, then it will show "1" for a broken (in electrical terms this is open) circuit and "0" or a number very close to zero for a working (closed) one.

Get yourself a tester 

Testers are inexpensive. If you do not already own one, here are some for consideration.
The important things for this are:

  • Good probes - with a long probe lead (around a meter or so).

  • Clear indication

  • Battery operated

Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-5502 Continuity Tester

Amazon Price: $4.05 (as of 11/26/2009) Buy Now

Fluke T5-1000 1000-Volt Continuity USA Electric Tester

Amazon Price: $130.95 (as of 11/26/2009) Buy Now

Gardner Bender GVC-1000 Voltage and Continuity Tester

Amazon Price: $42.50 (as of 11/26/2009) Buy Now

Checking the fuse 

Before checking any bulbs, get the fuse from the plug and test this - it may seem obvious, but people do miss this.

Test it with your multimeter/continuity tester and ensure it is closed.

How to quickly get to the bulb that is wrong 

Start with the outer bulbs

Remove the first bulb in the chain and test it. See HOWTO probe the bulbs for details. If it is okay, then it should show a closed circuit with the tester.

Remove the last bulb also - and test this. If it was either of those two - you are on a winner.

 

Probing a socket

Now identify which cables are which. At each bulb socket there will be 3 cables - one which just passed it by but twined close and two which enter the socket.

 

Probing start and end sockets

Looking at the first socket, one of the two contact cables will go to the plug, and the other to the next socket. You should put the first probe at the contact for the cable going to the next socket.

At the socket for last bulb, there should be two cables present - one going to the previous bulb socket, and one going back to the mains plug (which bypassed the other bulb sockets). Place the second probe on the contact that goes to the previous bulb. You will likely see no continuity here - so the dead bulb is clearly between the first and last.

 

Divide and Conquer

Working inward one by one would be really time consuming, so here I introduce the divide and conquer method. Find the bulb roughly in the middle of the set, and remove it from the socket. Test this bulb to make sure it is not the one. If this bulb is okay, you may have the one, otherwise continue.

Laying out the bulbs as mentioned above, you should be able to tell which contact for this socket goes towards the first socket, and which goes towards the last. Probing towards the first bulb socket, and the first bulb socket towards this bulb, you are now able to tell if the problem is in the first half. You can then switch to checking the contact that goes towards the last socket and the last socket itself, which tells you if there is a problem with the last half of the bulbs.

Interpreting the results 

There are 2 outcomes here:
A) One half is broken, and the other ok. In which case - you have just halved the number of bulbs you need to check - woohoo!
B) Both halfs are broken. You will have to apply this process again to each half.

Once you have divided it, you can repeat this process. Find the bulb halfway along the broken section, remove it, test this bulb, then test either side of the section with it. Repeat this until you find the broken bulb. By halving your work area each time, you will quickly reduce the possibilities.

Case study 

240 lights
The slow way would have you checking 240 bulbs, and a fuse. That is 241 tests.

Fast way:
Fuse check - Pass
Check first and last bulbs - Pass
Test across all bulbs - Fail
Check middle bulb - Pass
(This is 5 tests now)
Check middle to first - Pass
Check middle to last - Fail

In this case we now know that it is between the middle and end. We now have done 7 tests, and have only 120 or so bulbs to check - pretty much halving our work.

check the middle bulb in the last section - pass
Check section start to middle - pass
check section middle to end - fail

3 more tests, and we are down to 60 bulbs - see how we divided this? A total of 10 tests and we have counted out 180 bulbs as working.

Repeat this for the middle to end - 3 more tests - total 13, 30 more bulbs discarded.

If there is only one bulb, then the worst case will be around 25 tests. There is a reasonable chance you will find it as one of the middle bulbs first too. This is much faster than 240 tests.

Howto probe the bulbs 

As the diagram shows, each bulb has two contacts. Connect the probes to each contact as shown above. If the bulb is okay, then continuity will be shown.

Note - this only works on incandescent lamps. LED lamps must be probed only in the right polarity.

How does this scale? 

Once you have tested the first few, each subdivision adds 3 tests. So if the starting number is doubled, you would (again if only one bulb is gone) do 3 more tests to find it.

This means that for 480 bulbs, you do 28 tests, for 960, 31 tests and so on.

If, like the poor chap in the news, you have 91000, you would do only around 52 tests - whew - a huge saving over 91,000 tests. Of course - finding that middle bulb there may still be a trial with that many!

91,000 Bulb nightmare 

Peter Parsons, a 47 year old maintenance worker in Chester, had the unfortunate job of checking an unbelievable 91,000 lights on a Christmas tree in the Cheshire Oaks shopping centre.

He spent 6 hours finding the dud bulb. I have no idea which method he used to find it, but I would like to think he did not have to check every one of those bulbs to get there.

However, I spent about a few minutes with mine - or less. Granted there were only 80 bulbs, but still, I did not want to have to check every one.

Six hours to find the dud Christmas light | Metro.co.uk

What if two or more bulbs are gone? 

If this is the case, you are likely to have to check more bulbs. You will have to test each failed section, subdividing as you go. The worst real case is that every bulb fails - unlikely as it may seem, not impossible. Here - you would then have done around the 240 tests.

Other Christmas Lenses to Get you in the mood 

Its Christmas! Time for some music and food to set the scene.

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Image sources 

Title image, series circuit, bulb closeup and missing bulb images were drawn by me with Inkscape.

Christmas Lights on floor photo from FreeDigitalPhotos.net.

Giant Christmas tree, sheet and fuse photos from morguefile.com.

Other related links 

Recycling Christmas Lights
If your lights are beyond repair, consider this site to recycle them.

by dannystaple

I build stuff, grow stuff, read stuff and like to write about it. I like to philosophise, research and learn, and then go the next step and apply, do... (more)

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