How To Buy Plus Size Vintage Womens Clothing

Every few decades, clothing manufacturers decide to change the standardized sizing of women's clothing. In a 1930s movie, Ginger Rogers proclaims, "I'm a size 12!" Today, her dancer's figure would probably be closer to a 6 or an 8. (Thank goodness, they didn't know from size 0 back then.)

Likewise, a Vintage Size 20 is today about a contemporary size 16. As we larger ladies know, it's hard to find really great vintage above a contemporary size 12, or smaller!

Not only that, today's woman is generally taller, heavier, and more broadly built than yesterday's woman, and especially the day before yesterday's woman.

And we also don't torture our bodies into unnatural shapes with girdles, waist cinchers, bullet bras, or corsets. (Unless we want to. ) When the measurements in vintage clothes seem utterly baffling, remember that it was only in the 1960s that women started to forgo confining undergarments. Marilyn Monroe was thought to be easy because...she didn't wear a girdle.

But you don't have to settle. You just have to look a bit harder than other shoppers. Isn't that always the way?

Just like contemporary clothing, we all have to find what works for us.

Take me: I am 5'10", busty, long-waisted, with broad shoulders, long arms, and what could be called "barrel chested," i.e., big ribs. In fact, I'm built like my father, except for the busty part.

I have no problem fitting into the BOTTOM part of larger dresses...it's the tops! Either the shoulders are too small, the sleeves are tight, or the zipper won't close below the bust, even if it fits perfectly otherwise. I can't suck in my ribcage! So now I know what measurements to look for, and what questions to ask if they are not there, as well as what styles are more likely to fit me.

For instance, dolman, raglan, kimono or extended cap sleeves are a better bet for me than long tight sleeves, short cuffed sleeves, or elbow-length tight sleeves. My shoulders measure 18" across, and I need the bodice to be at least 17", if not more, from the shoulder seam to the waist. If the clothes have shoulder pads, I generally have to remove them. And jumpsuits? FORGET ABOUT IT! Even back in the 1980s when I was thin, I was far too long-waisted to wear them! Here I am in a Miss Elaine nylon lounger jumpsuit--notice how my leg is strategically lifted to conceal the fact that the torso is far too short! (I don't recommend this in real life!)

First, take a good long look at your figure, and what you want to emphasize. It can be your bust, your legs, your booty, whatever. You have to take your measurements everywhere: bust, waist, hips, shoulder to waist, waist to crotch, inseam, thigh width if you're going to be buying pants. If this freaks you out, have a friend help you and be there for emotional support. Most modern women are used to pulling on knits and elastic waists, so knowing your exact measurements tends to be a bit traumatic! I know!

Second, be realistic. If you are extremely pear-shaped, you might not be able to pull off (or on) low-rise bell-bottom 70s jeans, even if you find them in the right size. If you love the 70s, buy modern jeans that fit properly and invest in vintage tops and dresses.

A broad-shouldered muscular woman will have trouble finding wearable vintage tops, especially in 30s and 50s fashions that tend to be very tight in the shoulders and sleeves. On the other hand, you can wear clothes from the 40s (that's what I do) and remove the shoulder pads. I also have to do the same thing with clothes from the 1980s. Or you can buy vintage skirts and swing coats, and wear them with modern tops.

In a module below, I will elaborate on what you need to wear under vintage clothing to achieve the desired silhouette.

Remember that all vintage, whether in Mint Condition or Fair Condition, is not new.

That means that you will have to deal with the occasional stain, rip and missing button. Unless it's a sturdy wool jacket or something of that nature, you won't be able to wear it every day. Wear something under it.

Cultivate a good relationship with your professional cleaner. Make sure she knows how to clean vintage clothing! If you sew, you can repair most clothing, unless it's too far gone. But even then, if you know how, you can buy the item as a "study piece" and make a pattern from it.

Read the item descriptions carefully, and examine the pictures. Make sure all of the important measurements are there. Some sellers think a modern size 12 is an Extra-large when it comes to vintage. Many sellers ask that you measure a similar garment of your own as a comparison. It's a good tip!

All honest sellers disclose condition issues in their listings, whether large or small. Sometimes they will even have pictures. Please, don't be afraid to ask questions, no matter how small! It will save you time, trouble, and money. And check their FEEDBACK. If they have a lot of feedback from other experienced sellers, you know you are dealing with an expert.

The larger sizes that have survived often have done so because they were not worn too often. Women were more frugal in previous decades, and larger women often wore their clothes until they were too battered to wear any more. That's a major reason plus size vintage is hard to find.

The really good stuff is going to cost money. I hate to put it that way, but if you're looking for the ultimate cashmere coat, shelf bust evening gown, or velvet dress, it is best to think of it as "investment dressing." I generally don't sell extremely expensive clothing. But there are sellers who sell high end plus size vintage, and it's beautiful. Be prepared to shell out $150 and up for those items. (If it makes you feel better, the high end clothing also costs a lot for the thinner people as well!)

But you can also find wonderful vintage clothing in lower price brackets. It just takes a bit of sleuthing, whether on Ebay or anywhere else on the Internet.

With more fragile vintage items, such as blouses or lace dresses, we strongly recommend you wear an underlayer. Actually, you should wear an underlayer under any vintage, be it a full slip, crinoline, half slip, or camisole. This prevents further soiling of the garment by your body and helps to prolong its life.

Some clothing needs the right foundation garments! 1940s and 1950s dresses tend to be "hourglass" in cut, and unless there's enough fabric in the seam allowances to alter the dress, you might have to consider buying a waist-cincher. (Spanx won't cut it!) Back in the old days, that's what they wore: waist cinchers, pointy bras, and girdles. For some dresses, I have to wear a waist cincher. But I think it's worth it! Even if you have an hourglass figure, the waists will often be too small in post-war fashions.

If you like 50s fashions, a good push-up bra is a must. And feel free to play with the rest--stockings, garter belt, bustier--whatever feels right for you!

Happy shopping! And remember, BIG GALS RULE!