Indian Sari Varieties

Ikat-that gloriously woven, blurry edged. Gem-coloured design, in gorgeous yarn of silk and cotton has become synonymous with Orissa. Speaking eloquently of its old maritime linkages with Bali, the Ikat tradition of Orissa is the intricate process of Tie and Dye i.e. knotting selections of yarn before dipping them in separate colours one at a time and finally weaving them to produce one of the most delightful designs in multi-hued tones, in motifs drawn from the richness of nature, in threads both silken and gold. The Ikat technique is commonly known as BANDHA in Orissa. The double-ikat designs from Sambalpur are great buys as are the gold embroidered ones from Sonepur. The Bomkai ikats have motifs drawn from the Shakti Cult. The weavers of Orissa are class by themselves. They have been known far and wide for the intricate and painstaking skill exhibited in their fabrics.

Bengali Saris depict the sun, moon and stars in their patterns. Phases of the moon, radiant rim of the sun are some common patterns of bengali sarees. Calcutta sarees use silk warp and cotton weft. They are bright but subtle and have rich gold borders. Colored flowers, and green parrots are some of the patterns used in calcutta Saris. Bengali silk Sarees from Murshidabad in Bengal use natural tussah with broad red borders. Baluchari Sarees of Bengal, developed some two hundred years ago, use palette of dark red, yellow, green, purple, chocolate, cream, white and blue. Their borders are patterned with compartments containing repeating pictorial themes, which range from figures smoking or merely conversing, and holding flower sprigs.

Now that the world has become a global village, Kanchipuram sarees are available the world over. However, the production of these beautiful sarees is still centred in Kanchipuram, a small town located on the Palar river in South India. Also called Kanchi, the town is renowned for its silk industry and its temples.

The origin of the Kanchipuram saree dates back to centuries ago, when these sarees used to be woven in temples. Kanchipuram sarees, woven from pure mulberry silk, are found in myriad colours. These sarees have borders and pallu' in a contrast colour with heavy gold weaving. Kanchipuram sarees traditionally had designs representing simple gold lines or gold dots. The designs in these sarees were inspired by the designs in South Indian temples or natural elements like birds, leaves, etc. Some of the best known patterns in Kanchipuram saree borders are Rudraksham' (representing Rudraksha beads), Gopuram' (representing temples), Mayilkan' (Peacock eye) and Kuyilkan' (Nightingale eye). Keeping in view the changing trends, Kanchipuram silk sarees have undergone a transformation. Now, even Kanchipuram designer silk sarees are available, with embroidery or crystal work done on the traditional silk saree. One of the latest trends in these sarees is using ancient paintings and the images of gods and goddesses in the pallu'.

Andhra Pradesh is home to a large variety of cotton and silk handloom saris. The traditional saris of this state attain their distinct design according to weaving technique followed by Andhra weavers belonging to different districts of the state. The saris derive their names from the places of their origin.
Nander in Andhra Pradesh is renowned for its fine eminence of cotton sari ornately worked in gold thread with silk border.
Pochampalli saris of Andhra Pradesh are woven with the ikat patterns, where the yarn is pre dyed based on pattern before weaving.

Banarasi Silk is known all over the world for its finery and softness. Banarasi Saris are adorned with intricate designs and zari embellishments making it popular during traditional functions and weddings. Earlier, the embroidery on sarees were often done with threads of pure gold.

Thousands of weavers are engaged in weaving Benaras saris.
The Banarasi saris gained popularity during the Mughal era. During this period, all art was amalgamated to create a fusion of aesthetics. Persian motifs and Indian designs on silk studded with gold and silver remained the cue of Mughal patronage. Today Bbanarasi sarees are being exported worldwide.

Coimbatore cotton sarees often feature elaborate cotton brocade worked borders and pallus. This fine and airy cotton sari on the low range have plain fields and very understated pallu ornament, often just fine stripes. The high end sarees feature thread and zari work framed by intricate colorful threadwork borders. These sarees come in a great range of color combinations.

THE LEGACY OF QUEEN

This saree, as revealed by its name, has its origin in the town of Maheshwar, established by the austere queen Ahilya Bai who desired to live away from the bustling capital city of Indore. The intricately carved stone walls of her palace and temple are the inspiration for the elaborate patterns and borders of the Maheshwari Saree.

The saree woven from pure silk, is famous for its strength, elasticity and a unique luster of the fabric. The use of zari and particular texture and sheen of the "garbh reshmi" saree of Maheshwari give it a distinct identity amongst the wealth of Indian sarees and made it a much coveted item even in time as far back as 18th century India.

COLOUR AND DESIGN

As is normally the case with any long regional tradition, the language of the Maheshwari sari evokes images of serene fruitful nature. The hues and shades of the fabric are referred to in the vernacular as Angoori (grape green),Dalimbi (deep pink), Gul Bakhshi (magenta), Rani (deep mauve pink), Kaasni (light violet), Jaamla (purple), Dhaani (green), Chintamani (peacock blue), Aamrak (golden), Tapkeeree (deep brown). etc.

The use of zari and kinari is also unique to the Maheshwari saree. The golden thread is used to weave exotic motifs and designs on the flowdah (body) kinar (border) and the anchra (pallu) of the saree. Especially lovely are motifs like Guldasta, Aambuta, Ghunggroo, Chatai kinar, Bel phool, Jai phool, Hansa, Mayur, Baila Ankhi, Ambi Buti and Chandtara.

Once patronised by the royal house of this region, the magnificent Maheshwari was worn by the queens and the princesses along with Tussar and Chanderi sarees. Today, fortunately with efforts of organisations like Mrignayani, this exquisite sari is available to all those women who appreciate beauty and understand the dignified elegance, be it a marriage, a festival or a formal party.

Especially the silk sarees, which are worn on special occasions like marriages and Diwali and the Hindu New Year or even other festive occasions like Ramzan and Christmas, is a wonderful fashion statement of Karnataka. These silk sarees come in abundant varieties and are very smooth and sleek. They also come in gorgeous brocades and chiffons. These exclusive creations, using gold threads interwoven to create exquisite designs, have become highly popular and are still the favourite costume of Karnataka, for the ladies. The state is famous for its Mysore silk sarees.

The Mysore silk sari is the more affordable of the silk sarees. It is more reasonably priced and is also made from pure silk with silver zari. The Mysore silk sari is very soft and smooth, and quite light in weight unlike the heavier Kanchipuram sari. The Mysore silk sari looks more lustrous and gives the wearer an elegant look. Most of the women now wear cotton sarees which are more comfortable at workplace.

On 28th November 2007 Chennai Silks, a textile unit in Tamilnadu, came up with one of its kind of a Pattu Saree, a most expensive and unique saree that the human mind has ever visualised. The sari studded with gold, diamonds, emeralds and other precious stones. The saree which cost Rs 40 lakh and tips the scales at eight kilograms. The saree which is meticulously woven with 12 precious stones and metals to depict 11 of Raja Ravi Verma's most popular paintings. Explicitly projected are the 'Lady Musicians', one of the painter's very famous work of art that displays women belonging to diverse cultural backgrounds.

Besides, the border of the saree depicts another set of ten other paintings that pays tribute to this 20th century artist. The saree's best part is that the women in the paintings are intricately hand-woven and embellished with jewels of gold, diamond, platinum, silver, ruby, emerald, yellow sapphire, sapphire, cat's eye, topaz, pearl and corals and integrated with threads made of precious metals like gold, silver, and platinum exactly as it is found in the original painting.

This is the first silk saree that required the use of 7,440 jacquard hooks and 66,794 cards during the weaving process.A group of weavers ( 30 men and about seven months) took nearly 4,680 hours to complete this work of weaving this one masterpiece.
The AGM of Chennai Silks K.V. Sriram told the assembled guests: "The most special thing about the sari is the Ravi Varma painting which has been woven into it. All the intricate details in the painting have been replicated like the curly hair of the ladies and the jewels they are wearing."