Growing Fruit Trees In Containers

People frequently want to grow some type of fruit tree in a container, usually because of poor soil, improper climate or lack of sufficient space as is often the case around apartments and condominiums. Fortunately, a wide variety of fruit trees can be grown in containers with success.

One of the principal reasons for growing fruit trees in containers is portability. Thus, tropical and subtropical fruits can be grown in containers in areas where freezes might occur. The size and mobility of the containers allows the plants to be moved indoors during periods of predicated freezing temperatures. Many fruits can be successfully grown in containers: Meyer lemons (my favorite), key limes, dwarf oranges, kumquats, avocados, dwarf bananas, papaya, guava, blackberry, dwarf grapefruit, blueberry and fig are among the best suited for growing indoors and out in a small space. Most will produce some fruit if given proper care. The list is by no means complete, as most fruit trees could be grown in containers if the size of the container were not a problem. [The wider availability of many types of dwarf fruit trees also greatly increases the choices that container gardeners have.]

Containers may be plastic, metal, clay, ceramic, wood or any others normally available at nurseries and garden supply stores. Used whisky barrels cut in half are excellent or wooden boxes may be built to order. The container should have adequate holes at the bottom for drainage of excess water.

Potting
The drainage holes of the container may be covered with pieces of screen mesh to prevent the soil from washing out. A layer of gravel 1-2 in. (2-5 cm) should be placed in the bottom of the container to facilitate drainage.

Any commercial potting soil should be suitable for growing fruit trees. However, a mixture of 1 part sand, 1 part peat and 1 part bark, perlite or vermiculite will also serve quite well. The potting medium should be loose enough to permit adequate but not excessive drainage.

Examine the root system of the plant. If it is pot-bound or has experienced severe root crowding in its previous container, judiciously prune some of the larger roots and loosen others to facilitate root proliferation in the new container.

The container should be partially filled with soil (large containers should be filled at the site they are expected to remain). Place the plant in the partially filled container of soil to its correct planting depth which is the depth at which the plant was previously grown. The final soil surface should be 1-4 in. (2-10 cm) below the rim of the container, in direct proportion to container size, to allow for watering.

Complete filling the container and firm the soil around the plant. Water thoroughly but do not fertilize until new growth commences. An attractive mulch of bark, gravel or other material can be added to improve the appearance of the container.

Light
Most fruit crops grow best in full sunlight, but some will do well in partial shade. However, plants grow in direct proportion to the amount of light received, if other conditions are optimum, so container grown fruit trees should be placed where they will receive maximum sunlight.

It is important that rapid changes in light exposure be avoided, i.e. plants growing in partial shade should not be suddenly exposed to complete, direct sunlight. Any plants that are to be grown indoors part of the year should be acclimated by gradually reducing the light to which they are exposed for 2-23 weeks before moving them inside and vice versa for plants being moved outdoors. Such acclimation is not necessary for plants that are to be moved indoors for few days during freezes.

Temperature
Tropical and subtropical fruit trees cannot tolerate freezing temperatures for very long. Some will be killed back to the soil by mild freezes while only small twigs will be killed on others. Some root damage can occur because the root system is not as well insulated from cold in a container as it would be in the ground.

Cold hardiness depends on the plant, the care it receives and many other factors. Protection from severe cold is essential for all tropical and subtropical fruits growing in containers. Plants may be covered temporarily with blankets, paper or other material as protection against hard freezes, but such material should be removed each morning to allow the plants to take full advantage of incoming solar radiation. Plants moved indoors during cold spells should be placed away from drafts caused by doors and heating ducts.

Water
Most container grown plants that do not thrive are usually in poor condition due to faulty watering practices, usually overwatering. Plants growing in containers should be watered only as needed. The frequency of watering depends upon such variables as type and size of plant, type and size of container, temperature, humidity, potting medium and other factors. For most plants, the upper surface of the soil should be allowed to become dry to the touch before watering. Then water thoroughly by slowly filling the container. Good drainage of excess water from the container is essential.

The soil in plastic, metal and ceramic containers generally stays wet longer than it does in wood or clay containers, which allow water to evaporate through the sides. Cool weather generally slows plant growth and this reduces the plant's need for moisture, so watering should be less frequent during cool weather.

Fertilizer
Good nutrition is essential to the success of container-grown fruit trees, but excess fertilizer can result in overgrowth, poor fruit and possible dieback due to salt accumulation. Water-soluble fertilizers are widely available and should be used according to label directions. If mature foliage is deep green in color, adequate fertilizer is being used.

Many fertilizers can be used successfully, provided they are complete and balanced. The fertilizer should contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in balanced proportions and should include lesser amounts or traces of magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc and copper. The ingredients and quantities of each nutrient contained are listed on the fertilizer label.

Salt accumulation may sometimes be a problem and is often indicated by a white crust on the soil or container and may be due to excess fertilization and/or water containing considerable soluble salts. Should this occur, the container should be thoroughly leached by slowly running water through the container for several minutes. This will carry excess salts down through the soil and out the drainage holes.

Pruning
With few exceptions, fruit trees will develop and maintain their natural shape with little or no training or pruning. They will occasionally become "leggy" when grown indoors or in poor light for too long. Leggy branches should be partially cut back to force branching and bushiness.

Frequently, the top will grow rather large and begin to exceed the capability of the root system. Consequently, some leaf shed and twig dieback will often occur. Such plants should be pruned back heavily to rejuvenate them. When plants area heavily pruned, less fertilizer and water will be necessary to compensate for the reduced plant size.

Fruitfulness
Most fruit crops will produce fruit in containers, given time, good care and adequate size and age. However, naturally large fruit trees will require larger containers to bear much fruit, as the amount of fruit produced is proportional to the plant's size, so large yields should not be expected. Many fruit plants need to be large in order to fruit at all, so their size can quickly become limiting in containers. Some fruit crops also require the presence of pollenizer cultivars and pollinating insects. Flowers can be pollinated by hand if needed.

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The keys to successful container growing are:

1. Select the right size pot with adequate drainage holes.

2. Use a soil mix that is lightweight and drains well. If the mix is dense or contains peat moss, amend your soil mix with 1/4-1/3 volume of 1" redwood shavings.

3. Develop a watering schedule so the tree stays on the dry side of moist.

4. Provide 8 or more hours of direct sunlight or grow light per day.

5. Plant the tree so the root collar is above the soil line and the top of the root crown is barely below the soil. Do not cover the trunk with soil at all.

Meyer Lemon Bars

Crust:

1 cup butter
1/2 cup powdered sugar
2 cups flour

Pat into 9x13 inch pan and bake at 350 degrees for 15-20 minutes.

Filling:

4 eggs (lightly beaten)
2 cups sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup freshly squeezed Meyer lemon juice
Grated rind of 2 lemons

Pour over hot crust and return to oven for 20-25 minutes. When cool dust with powdered sugar and cut into bars.

Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette

3 Meyer lemons
1 teaspoon champagne vinegar
1 teaspoon white balsamic vinegar
½ teaspoon finely minced fresh rosemary
3 shallots, finely minced
1 Tablespoon mild honey
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1-cup olive oil

Finely grate the zest from the lemons; set aside. Juice the lemons (you need ½ cup). Combine the ½ cup lemon juice and the vinegars. Add the herbs, shallots, honey, lemon zest and the salt and pepper to taste. Whisk in the oil.

Several important insect pests affect fruit grown in the home garden. Good quality, satisfactory fruit cannot be grown without good pest control and tree care. If you wish to grow your own fruit, you must be willing to learn the important pests and the methods to control them and then be willing to expend the time and effort to do the job right. This information will help you to understand the main pests that affect fruit trees and the methods to produce good quality fruit.

Before fruit trees are planted, home fruit growers should be aware of the time and work they entail and must be willing to care for them properly. The following cultural methods will reduce many pest problems without using pesticides.

Sanitation includes pruning and cleaning up twigs and branches and fruit that drops to the ground unused. Proper irrigation and fertilization maintain tree health and reduce stress. Good weed control beneath fruit trees reduces habitat for cutworms and other pests. Only plant varieties that are suitable to your growing area - this will help ensure your success with fruit trees.

Some of the most common pests are: moths, aphids, leafhoppers, mites, twig borers and fruit flies. Misting your trees with water daily can help prevent an infestation, plus your trees will thank you for the added humidity.

This is a recipe for "real" Key Lime pie. Real Key lime pie is not green and it does not have a soft "pudding" texture. The pie gets its true pale yellow color from the egg yolks that predominate the ingredient list. And the texture is a "firm custard". Be careful that you don't over-bake the pie or it will be "rubbery". For best results use fresh Key Limes, not bottled juice. The traditional preparation does not put any meringue on the top of the pie. This is a very simple recipe and only takes a few minutes to prepare and 12 minutes to bake.

Serves: 8
I N G R E D I E N T S
Crust
16 graham crackers, crushed
3 tablespoons sugar
1 cube (1/4 lb) margarine or butter

I N S T R U C T I O N S
Mix the ingredients and press them into a 9" pie plate. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for 10 - 12 minutes until lightly browned. Place on a rack to cool.

_________________________

I N G R E D I E N T S
Pie
4 large or extra large egg yolks
1 14 ounce can sweetened condensed milk
1/2 cup fresh key lime juice (approximately 12 Key limes)
2 teaspoons grated lime peel, green portion only

Whipping Cream For Garnish (Optional)
1/2 cup whipping cream
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

I N S T R U C T I O N S
Use an electric mixer and beat the egg yolks until they are thick and turn to a light yellow, don't over mix. Turn the mixer off and add the sweetened condensed milk. Turn speed to low and mix in half of the lime juice. Once the juice is incorporated add the other half of the juice and the zest, continue to mix until blended (just a few seconds). Pour the mixture into the pie shell and bake at 350F for 12 minutes to set the yolks and kill any salmonella in the eggs.

s e r v i n g
If you are using the whipping cream garnish, prepare the cream. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream.

A Meyer Lemon Tree is compact enough for container growth indoors (or out in warmer months).
Grow lemons on the patio and enjoy the sight and scent of indoor winter blooms with this container-sized Lemon tree. Compact enough even for urban balconies and limited-space gardens, Meyer Lemon will begin bearing large, juicy, thick-skinned fruit at an early age and just keep producing them.

Even if there were no fruit at all, this evergreen would be attractive enough to grow as an ornamental. The leaves are lush and glossy, the small white flowers (arising indoors in late winter, just when the house needs some color and scent!) are intensely fragrant, and the habit is upright and well-branched. Depending on the size of the container and pruning you give it, this tree could reach 8 feet high and 10 feet wide, but can also be kept much smaller with pruning.

The lemons are the real prize of Meyer, however. They arise in clusters of about 6 after the blooms pass. Then you should thin them immediately to about 2 or 3 per cluster, unless you want more plentiful - but much smaller fruits. The fruit is very juicy, with an extra-thick skin that's great for zesting. Not just ornamental, these are delicious lemons you will find yourself slicing, zesting, and squeezing all year long.

Give this tree plenty of sunshine and water indoors and out. When you bring it inside for the winter, place it before your sunniest window and rotate it frequently to get sunlight to all the leaves. It will reward you with a whole season of beauty before it's time to take it outdoors again for the warm weather!

You can order a Meyer Lemon Tree here: (this is where I purchased mine - and it's thriving in my office)

If you've discovered the joy of growing an indoor fruit tree, you're likely very pleased with their low maintenance. Just about anyone can grow these citrus trees in just about any living space. Their fragrant blossoms and sweet delicious fruit make them a welcome addition to any home.

Here's 5 tips for making sure your indoor fruit tree is healthy, vibrant, and productive:

1. If you need to add soil to your tree container, never use soil from the yard or anywhere outside. Get a soil mixture with perlite mixed in. You can buy this mix online or at most garden centers. The soil mixture should be an airy potting soil, and you should add soil up to the line on the trunk where discoloration from the dirt used by the nursery ends. Leave enough space at the top of the pot to water thoroughly.

2. These trees like regular watering. For the most part, every week to 10 days is plenty. When the soil is no longer damp, go ahead and water. Be thorough but don't drench the soil. As for light exposure, a western or southern exposure is best.

3. Not only do indoor citrus trees like water, they like to be fed as well. Once a month, fertilize them with a specially formulated fertilizer made for indoor citrus varieties. If you don't want to buy a specialized fertilizer, no worries. The key ingredients are zine, iron, and manganese. Most good quality multipurpose fertilizers contain these ingredients.

4. Most humans hate humidity, but as you might imagine, indoor citrus trees love it. If your living space is dry, particularly in the colder months, add moisture with a humidifier, or mist them frequently. Another good idea is to place your tree container in a tray filled with pebbles and water added to the top of the pebbles. Note of caution: Don't put your tree directly in front of a drafty vent.

5. When it gets warm outside, give your tree some TLC and let it live outside on a patio or balcony. The outdoor sun will do your tree good, but acclimate it to full sunlight gradually. We usually place our three trees in a shady area for a few days first.

Other Tips

After you've owned your tree for a while, you'll notice it will produce quite a number of blossoms. Not all of these blossoms will produce fruit, but you can help encourage fruit production. Take a soft small paintbrush and brush the stamens of open blossoms from blossom to blossom. Basically, you're helping the pollination process.

Lastly, for pests, spray your tree with horticultural oil. Your most common pest will likely be spider mites. Horticultural oil will smother the pests and should rid your tree of the problem.

4 boneless, chicken breast halves (about one pound), cut into bite-sized pieces
½ cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
½ cup fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons finely grated mandarin zest (3 mandarins)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 mandarins
2 cups watercress leaves
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
¼ cup toasted coconut or chopped almonds (optional)

Mix yogurt, ginger, ¼ cup of mint leaves, mandarin zest, cumin, black pepper in a bowl. Cut 1 mandarin in half, squeeze juice half of it into yogurt mixture and mix. Add chicken and turn in marinade. Evenly cover, and set aside for 1 hour or refrigerate for up to 12 hours.

Put remaining mint leaves and watercress in a bowl and squeeze in juice from remaining mandarin half. Turn greens to distribute juice. Peel remaining mandarins, removing all white pith, divide into sections and cut each section in half. Add to bowl of greens. In a skillet over medium heat, warm vegetable oil. Using slotted spoon, add chicken to skillet. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Pour off collected juices from skillet and return to heat. Continue to cook until meat turns lightly golden, another minute or two. Add chicken to greens and fruit. Toss to mix well. If desired, sprinkle coconut or almonds over top. Serves 3 or 4.

- From 'Citrus,' by Ethel and Georgeanne Brennan;
courtesy of Four Winds Growers.

With a little patience and the proper environment, you can grow fruit indoors. A variety of dwarf fruit trees are available, including orange, lemon, lime, nectarine, banana, kiwi, apple and avocado. Though you can start some of these trees from seed, flowering and fruiting are more likely to result from a cutting or from grafted stock. In addition, self-pollinating varieties are easier to grow than cross-pollinators, which require another variety of the same type of tree nearby to furnish pollen.

Adequate (bright) light is essential for growing fruit indoors. Keep the soil of fruit trees evenly moist, especially in spring and summer. Turn plants to provide even light, and mist their leaves occasionally. To ensure proper care, always read the growing instructions that come with a purchased tree.

Here are a few favorite varieties and tips about their culture requirements:

Kumquat:

The Nagami kumquat, or Hong Kong kumquat (Fortunella hinsii), makes an excellent houseplant.
Blooms in summer and fall; oval orange-colored edible fruit ripens in late winter through spring.
Keep in a spot that gets at least a half-day of direct sun. Fertilize monthly year-round. Greatest environmental danger is from air conditioning and artificial heat.

Citrus:

More challenging as houseplants, but not impossible.
Recommended varieties include Tahitian lime (seedless, juicy), Ponderosa lemon, Christmas tangerine.

Need full sun for as many hours as possible. Keep soil evenly moist in spring and summer, drier in fall and winter. Avoid extremes of wet, dry, hot and cold. Requires 50 percent humidity.

Fig:

Edible fruit from early summer to fall.
Use a rich potting mix; keep soil slightly moist. Fertilize four times a year.

Pomegranate:

A good variety to try is Nana dwarf (Punica granatum), which produces orange-red ornamental fruit from July to November; also good as bonsai.
Place in a sunny window, keep soil moist, fertilize bi-monthly.

As with most trees and shrubs, pruning is important for nice shape, good health, and overall productivity of dwarf citrus trees. Regular maintenance pruning to remove dead or diseased wood, or wood that is growing awkwardly, is also very important. But unlike pruning ornamental trees and shrubs, properly pruning dwarf citrus trees makes a difference between large, annual crops of excellent fruit, or intermittent crops of variable quality.

Because Dwarf Citrus trees are encouraged to bear lots of large fruits, pruning the trees will help develop a strong branch system capable of withstanding the annual load of ripe fruit. Prune middle branches on dwarf citrus trees to allow ample sunlight to reach into the middle of the tree, otherwise fruits will not ripen properly and will lack good color. Pruning also allows for good air circulation through the crown, and that prevents disease and discourages pests from making a home in your tree.

A dwarf citrus tree allowed to bear all the fruit it sets in the spring will produce lots of poor quality fruit, or it will produce well only every other year. For consistently good crops you MUST thin clusters of young fruit to a single fruit. Do this when the fruit is still small (marble to golf-ball size - depending on variety). Each fruit should be six inches or more from its neighbor. Such thorough fruit thinning is time consuming, but you will appreciate the effort and be rewarded with a better quality crop.

Calamondin Jelly

1 cup ground calmondin orange and juice
3 cups water, or 2 cups water and 1 cup pineapple juice
4 cups sugar

Boil ground calamondin, juice and liquid for 10 minutes. Add the sugar and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until it turns into jelly, about 20 minutes.

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