In Love With Lisbon

Lisbon - glorious, romantic, beautiful Lisbon. City of golden light and ancient streets. Ancient seaport destroyed by a huge earthquake and rebuilt. Lisbon - city of warmth and kindness, city of longing, city of saudade.



Lisbon is a beautiful city with a vast amount to offer those who choose to visit. From the Phonecians to the Greeks, from the Romans to the Moors, Lisbon has experienced a colourful and dramatic history and retains features of this ancient inhabitants to this day.

During the 16th century, Lisbon experienced it's Golden Age as Vasco de Gama bravely sailed to India marking the Age of Discovery. Portugal was the first country to trade with India and Africa, bringing back spices and textiles as well as new thoughts and experiences. Lisbon became a wealthy city and it's architecture gloried in that wealth.

Despite Spain continuously trying to rule over Portugal, tiny Portugal evenutually held it's ground and celebrated independence in 1640. On November 1st 1755 a giant earthquake devasted the city, destroying almost all of it and killing around 90,000 people. With much of old Lisbon lost, the Marquis of Pombal ordered that the city be rebuilt using modern designs. His statue can be seen on Pombal square.

In 1933 Portugal became ruled by a authoritarian regime under the dictator Salazar. He died in 1970 and the regime was finally overthrown by the people in 1974. This "Carnation Revolution" is considered one of the most peaceful revolutions ever. It took place in Lisbon.

Although a fire destroyed much of the district of Chiado in 1988, Lisbon was named as the European Capital of Culture in 1994. In 1998 Lisbon hosted the 'Expo'- a world fair held to commemorate the discoveries of Vasco de Gama. 141 countries took part and the oceans were celebrated. Nowadays tourists can make a trip to Parque das Nações where the Expo took place and visit the largest aquariam in Europe as well as marvel at the amazing architecture, stroll through beautiful tropical gardens and rest in the various restuarants and cafes.

Here some suggestions of things to do in Lisbon

Ride the Number 28 Tram

As soon as you arrive in Lisbon you will hear the trundle of the iconic trams that run throughout the city. the number 28 is the most famous of all the routes and one of the best ways of seeing the city as a whole. Passing through many of the major parts of Lisbon, the circular journey will take you past many tourist attractions - Alfama, the Sé, Graca quarter, Baixa and Bairro Alto, Chiado and Estrela. Buy a 3 day travel ticket at the Carris kiosk on Figueira Square and you can hop on and off all the trams which will save your feet and is much cheaper than paying each time. Watch your bags as pickpockets are rife but do enjoy the ride.

Spend an Evening in a Fado Bar
Traditional Portuguese music is known as Fado. Currently, the most famous singer of fado is Mariza whose amazing voice has delighted across the world. Fado is traditionally sung by a woman dressed in long skirts and wrapped in a shawl accompanied by the Portuguese guitar and evokes what the Portuguese call 'saudade'. This word is difficult to translate accurately into English. It means something akin to missing, longing and hope. Listen to the music and you will experience the feeling. These days there are bars set up for tourists so you need to seek out the smaller places where the locals still attend. Lapa and Alfama are good options.

Take a Daytrip to Sintra

Just around 40 minutes train ride from Lisbon is the magical village of Sintra. Take a ride out into the Portuguese countryside and up into the mountains for breath-taking scenery. Sintra is the place of palaces - once the area loved by nobility. Whilst there are many attractions here, my favourite is Quinta da Regaleira, a fairytale folly of castle just outside the main village. Mysterious and romantic, it is a wonderful place to rest and recharge.

Get Lost in Alfama

Alfama is the ancient heart of Lisbon that survived the great 1755 earthquake. The maze-like streets are where you will find many of the typical scenes you see on postcards from Lisbon. Houses decorated with traditional azulejos(Portuguese tile), washing hanging outside the windows, iron balconies profusely decked with flowers, sites such as Lisbon Castle, the birthplace of St. Anthony, museums and secret stairways. Step into the past and take in the atmosphere.

Visit Belém and Eat Pasteis

Belém is a district in Lisbon reached by the number 15 tram from Commercial Square. Here are 3 of the most famous Lisbon sites: The Discoveries Monument, Belém Tower and the Jeronimous Monestary and gardens. In summer the place is heaving with tourists so try going in the early morning or on a weekday. Visit the Pasteis de Belém and sample the famous custard tarts then make your way to the magnificent sites nearby.

Find your favourite Miradouro
Miradouro's are viewpoints across Lisbon and everyone has a favourite. Mine is the Miradouro das Portos do Sol, which will be yours? These wonderful places offer you a feast of the best views across the city. Often you will find a bar or café situated close by so you can watch the sunset whilst sipping a galão or cerveja (a milky coffee or a beer).

Go up the Santa Justa Elevator

Build by a student of Eifel, this giant iron lift in the city centre takes you up the steep hill from Baixa to Chiado/Bairro Alto. Upon exiting the gleaming wooden car you are treated to a spectacular view across the city. From here you can visit the Gothic ruins of the Carmo Monestary.

Try the National Favourites
Salt cod is the national dish of Portugal and the Portuguese say they have 365 ways of cooking it - one for everyday. Almost every restaurant will have one 'bacalhau' dish. Also try feijoada (bean stew), caldo verde (green soup) or and one of the many doces (sweets) that the Portuguese love. Arroz doce (rice pudding) is nearly always on the menu. Just about every café has a wonderful display of sweet pastries so indulge over your morning coffee in the sun. Of course, come evening, you must also sample a glass of port and try ginjinha (cherry liqueur).

Look at the Portuguese Tile

From the mosaic patterns beneath your feet to the stunning azulejos that decorates alomst every building in Lisbon, Portuguese tile is everywhere. It's gorgeous geometric designs hark back to the influence of the Moors although you can also find huge historical scenes in the most unexpected places.

Drink a coffee at cafe Brasileira

With a life-size sculpture of Portugal's best loved poet (Fernando Pesso), Cafe Brasileira is an iconic watering hole.

Lisbon is atmospheric and charming, the people welcoming and warm. There are ancient streets to wander in Alfama and fado echoes from tiny bars. It is a place that can suit young and old alike.

Lisbon takes care of it's history, whilst there may be hip new bars and sleek buildings on the waterfront, you only have to turn around to see a reminder of ancient times.