Life and Travel of an Expat in Lima

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Living and learning in Lima, Peru

I'm an expatriated American from Florida, who has been living in Lima, Peru since 2004. One thing I've learned about Lima is that every day is an adventure. And it's only fair of me to share that adventure with the world, right? So this lens is going to be all about things I've learned while living in Peru, and sharing information about it with other people. If you ever decide to come down here to visit or live, I hope this lens will be able to point you towards helpful information.

I've tried to include information that's helpful for tourists, and also for people who are interested in living in Peru full time. Most of my information is a bit Lima-centric, since that's where I live. I've also organized the lens by location - it starts out with arriving at the airport, talks about Lima and the coast. I've followed that up with a little bit about visiting in Cuzco and the mountains, and then end with the jungle. As time goes on, I will be updating and adding more helpful information, so check back often!

Lima, Peru's Jorge Chavez Int'l Airport

Passing Through Immigrations

Jorge Chavez International Airport - Picture from WikipediaVirtually everyone who flies into Peru flies into Jorge Chavez International Airport. Most people are quite impressed with Peru's airport - it is one of the most modern in South America, and as a matter of fact, in 2009 was selected as the Best Airport in S. America by SkyTrax Research. (update - AND 2010!)

When you touch down in Lima, the first stop you'll make will be immigrations. On the plane, you will have received a small white paper - this is a Tarjeta Andina, and basically serves as your visa while you're in Peru. It's very straightforward to fill out, and you'll want to have it ready along with your passport when you reach the immigrations officer. A tourist visa can be granted for up to 183 days. Typically, the officer will give you 30 or 60 days, but feel free to let them know how much time you actually need. There is rarely a problem with granting the full 183 days.

Passing Through Customs at the Airport

And Where Do You Go From There?

Jorge Chavez - World Famous Peruvian Aviator - Photo from WikipediaAfter your passport and Tarjeta Andina have been stamped, you'll leave the immigrations area and head over to baggage claim. When you've received your luggage from the carousel, you may or may not be asked to show your claim ticket and/or passport before leaving the area. Now, you will have also received a customs form on the plane. It should be filled out by this time. If you're coming to Peru as a tourist, you really shouldn't have any problem passing through customs. You're allowed personal electronic items, like laptops, gameboys, cameras, mp3 players etc - one each per person. if you're bringing gifts, there is a cap of $300 - but no individual article worth over $100. Anything else, make sure to claim it on the customs declaration form. As you pass through customs, you'll be told to press a button. When you do, you'll be given a green light or a red light, supposedly at random, but I have my suspicions. If you get a red light, your baggage will be inspected.

If you get a green light, you're ready to go! Pass on through, and make your way out the gates. Individual taxis are no long allowed to enter the airport and look for passengers, so you should prearrange a taxi to your hotel or residence. Most hotels and hostels include airport pick-up in their services, so check with yours. If not, there are taxi companies in the airport that provide service around the city. Or, call Remisse Taxi Lima, the company owned by my husband and I. We have English speaking drivers, unlike the airport taxis, and all our cars are safe and clean.

The other option is to walk across the parking lot, and exit the airport to catch a taxi at the end of the pedestrian walkway. I definitely recommend AGAINST doing this. There are unscrupulous cabbies that hang out in this spot, looking for marks. They pick people up, and take them to some secluded spot where their friends are waiting, and will relieve you of everything you have - down to you socks and underwear. Please don't get me wrong - not every taxi driver is like that, not even most of them are. I've lived in Peru for 6 years now and have never had a problem. But the bad ones DO know where to find tired travelers who might not be thinking quite clearly after 8 or more hours of airports and flying.

For more information about airport amenities, check-in procedures, airlines and more, visit International Flights to Peru and Domestic Flights from Lima

La Marca Peru

Making Peru a Brand

The country of Peru is on a mission to re-brand itself as a great place to visit, and to that end has made this video. It's shows many famous Peruvian celebrities visiting the city of Peru, Nebraska do inform the citizens there of their "rights" as fellow Peruvians - the right to delicious food, the right to traditional dances, the right to surf on amazing waves...

The unusual thing about the video is that it isn't made for foreigners, to sell them on the idea of Peru. The video has been cut up into commercials that are playing on television here in Peru. The idea is to make Peruvians proud of what their country has and to remind them that they are the best ambassadors of their home land.

Take a look - It's a fun and funny look at many of the things Peru has to offer. Keep an eye out for the ingenious method of surfing on dry land!
Documental Marca Perú (Versión Oficial con Subtítulos en Inglés)
by marcaperu | video info

299 ratings | 39,577 views
curated content from YouTube

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5 Things to See and Do in Lima

If you come to Lima, Peru, these are the things you GOTTA do!

If you have a few days to visit in Lima, I'd recommend taking in the following attractions. If you only have ONE day to spend before you scoot off to the jungle or to Machu Picchu, read Lima Travel Guide: What to See in Lima, Peru in One Day for some great ideas on making the most of your time.
  1. The San Franciscan Monastery and Catacombs - In the Historic City Center. Amazing architecture and artwork, plus the earthly remains of 10s of 1000's of Lima's dearly departed.
  2. The Larco Museum (Museo Larco) - This is an awesome museum that covers 3000 years of Peruvian history, starting with pre-Columbian artwork. They feature gold and silver items from ancient Peru and a famous gallery of 'erotic' ceramic ware. They have a GREAT restaurant inside, too.
  3. Paragliding - Lima has some of the best Paragliding to be found. The city is built up on cliffs over the ocean, and gets fantastic lift from the ocean breezes which allows 'gliders to buzz right next to the buildings - something not found in many other places. There are several companies that rent or sell equipment, and also offer tandem rides with an experienced paraglider.
  4. Mirabus Lima by Night tour - If you enjoy sparkling city lights, this is the tour for you. Check out the Mirabus kiosk in Parque Kennedy and sign up for this tour of the city which includes a stop for drinks and snacks.
  5. Chinatown (Barrio Chino) - Chinatown is (of course!) the best place to go for Chinese food. They also have a lot of great shopping. Hold on to your bags carefully!

The Pacific Ocean

This was the beach in winter, picture taken from a bus window.

The beach off the coast of Lima, unfortunately is very polluted - but it's still packed with surfers when the waves are good. However, if you head south or north of the city, there are some really great beaches to be found. Peru is well known for it's surfing, and one of the world's top female surfers, Sofia Mulanovich, is from just south of Lima. The beach where she grew up is called Cerro Azul, and it's so well know it was mentioned in the Beach Boy's song "Surfin' Safari".

They're anglin' in Laguna, in Cerro Azul
They're kicking out in Dohini too
I tell you surfing's mighty wild
It's getting bigger every day
From Hawaii to the shores of Peru

How much does it cost to live in Lima, Peru

The answer is... it depends!

There are a lot of different lifestyles for expats that live in Peru. Some people come here with income from their home country, and live much better than they could back home - nice house, nice car, maid, lots of eating out. Others come with not much more than they can carry in their pocket, and try to make it living the 'Peruvian way'. And, there are many varying shades between the two extremes. I have a little money from home that allows us to live better than we would if we only had our Peruvian income, but we're far from "Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous"!

Rent and food tend to be the two biggest expenditures. If you have children and want to put them in a decent school, that can take a big chunk of change, too. I was surprised when we put our children in private school that we were given a list of cleaning supplies that we had to buy - floor wax, toilet paper, lysol etc. Also, about every week, we got a note asking for a couple dollars for photocopies, art supplies or a birthday gift for a teacher. And that's on top of the monthly tuition!!

For a good idea on how much it can cost you to live in Lima, I really recommend my article, Expat Tips: The Cost of Living in Lima, Peru. It's chock full of the costs you can expect for apartments, food, health care and more. And of course, if you ever have a question, feel free to ask me! I love talking about my decision to live in Lima, Peru.

The Peruvian Dream

Not sure if moving to Peru is right for you? You better make up your mind quick! The economy in Peru is one of the strongest in the Americas, and has been growing at a steady pace despite the world economic crisis.

This video takes a comical look at that scenario, imagining how it might be if Peru becomes an economical power house in the region - soon everyone will want to be living the "Peruvian Dream"!
A peruvian dream
by elcomerrio | video info

48 ratings | 11,318 views
curated content from YouTube

A view of Huayna Picchu

Taken from the entrance to Machu Picchu

I climbed that thing!

On January 1st of 2008, my family and I were at the gates of Machu Picchu as the sun rose up over the mountain peaks. It was a beautiful and amazing sight, and something I'd dreamed of since the first time I heard of Machu Picchu - over 25 years ago.

The peak in the background of this picture is called Huayna Picchu. If you look at the picture sideways, you can see how it sort of looks like a face, with Huayna Picchu as the nose - Peruvians say it's the face of an Inca warrior. My family and I climbed to the top of Huayna Picchu that day. It was one of the most physically challenging things I've ever done, and I'm so proud of myself for doing it!

Lunch overlooking the Sacred Valley

Visit the Rain Forest!

Peru has it all..

Here we are playing in the river during our stay at Manu National Park. We had a great time! While we were there, we took several hikes, and saw monkeys (including a mother carrying a baby as she swung through the trees!), leaf-cutter ants and the Peruvian national bird, the Cock of the Rock. It was an amazing experience, and I look forward to making another jungle excursion soon.

The guy with his back to us in the picture is Saturnino, he was our guide at the lodge. Because we were there during the off season, we were actually the only people staying at the lodge, so we got a lot of attention from him. He really did a great job, and taught us a lot about the plant and animal life in the area. He is a married man, with children, but lives at the lodge for months at a time, while his family lives in another part of Peru. He receives a very small amount of pay for his work - about $200 US a month, and since he lives and eats in the lodge, he sends all his money home to support his family. This is a very typical situation in Peru.

Peru has amazing wildlife!

And some not so wild life...

Giant snail crossing the path

This snail was crossing the road as we hiked through the rain forest.

But this wasn't all we saw... there were monkeys, birds, moths, leaf-cutter ants... it was so awesome!

More Manu Wildlife

They only came out at night

One of our friends who went with us is a biologist who specializes in moths and butterflies. So once it got dark in the jungle, we set out spot lights to attract the moths - it didn't take long before we were surrounded! The diversity was really amazing.

Read more about Peru!

If you're looking for more information on Peru, these articles are a great place to start.
Best Lima Restaurants: A Local's Guide
This is a list of some of my favorite restaurants in LIma
Breakfast in Lima, Peru
I wrote this article because so many people were asking where they could find a hearty American style breakfast in Lima.
Expat Tips: The Cost of Living in Lima
If you're thinking of living in Lima, this article will give you a breakdown on costs. It's a very affordable place to live!
Lima Travel Guide: What to See in Lima, Peru in One Day
Traveling to Peru and only have one day to check out Lima? Check out my guide to the must see attractions!
Top 10 Natural Wonders of Peru
Peru is famous for it's natural beauty - here's a list of the top 10 reasons why.
The Expat Peru Network
This is the best website I've seen for foreign nationals living in Peru - You can call us 'gringos' - we don't mind! There is a wealth of articles and a great forum where the 'regulars' can answer any question you might have.

Learning to Talk Like a Peruvian

I've had a surprising number of people ask me if I've learned to speak 'Peruvian' since I've been living here. The truth of the matter is that Peru has 3 national languages - Spanish, Quechua and Aymara. Quechua and Aymara are very old languages that date back from the time of the Incas, and many people who live in the Andean highlands still use these languages. Spanish was brought into the country by the Spanish Conquistadors, and is the main language used throughout the country now.

Although Peru recognizes three main languages, there are even more languages spoken here. There are many small tribes throughout the Amazon rainforest and jungles, and each has it's own language or dialect that they speak. I find it fascinating and exciting that these small groups of people are able to hold on to their languages and cultures in the face of technology and expansion.

When I first arrived in Peru, I didn't speak very much Spanish - but when faced with 2 new step-sons who didn't speak English, i had to learn fast! I'm proof that even adults can learn new languages. If you're interested in learning Spanish, check out this information on learning Spanish fast.

Have you visited Peru?

Or do you plan on it?

(Horse and carriage photo taken in Historic Downtown Lima)

I think everyone should come to Peru at least once in their life - it's such an amazing place to visit! So, tell us - are you planning on coming down? Should we put a mint on the pillow?

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An Expat in Lima - My Life In Peru

The daily diary of an Expatriated American living in Peru -with thoughts, meanderings, cooking tips and recipes.

Come and see what I'm doing down here in Peru - sort of a diary of things that are going on, and a guide to Peruvian food and cooking.
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Talk to Me!

Have you been to Peru? Thinking of visiting? Let me know!

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  • Reply
    MobileAppMan Jan 23, 2012 @ 12:52 am | delete
    Hi. I added your Lens to my Ceviche lens and 'liked' your lens too. maybe you could return the favor? Thanks!
  • Reply
    Jessi Jan 19, 2012 @ 4:49 am | delete
    Hello. I have never visited Peru, but in July, my one year old son and I will be moving to Lima for at least two years. I was wondering if you had a private email where you could be contacted for questions. Or if you could write to me at TheBB73@yahoo.com ? I like this blog, it was a good find.
  • Reply
    VillaDejaBlue Jan 2, 2012 @ 8:13 am | delete
    Nice lens
  • Reply
    MDJ Dec 20, 2011 @ 11:07 am | delete
    I am thinking of teaching ESL in Lima. I have a degree and several years of experience. Will I be able to make enough to live on?
  • Reply
    KellydeBorda Dec 20, 2011 @ 2:39 pm | delete
    It really depends on what kind of teaching you're comfortable doing, and what standard of living you're comfortable with. I taught private lessons part time in my home and made about $800/month - you can certainly teach more hours than that (about 24/week) or charge more than I did (I had very low rates because I only taught in my home). You can also get a job with a good International school; they usually have the highest rates of pay. If you work for a local English institute, you can expect to get low pay and bad work hours.
  • Reply
    MDJ Dec 20, 2011 @ 9:45 pm | delete
    Thank you very much for your comment. I think if I could work around 25 hours a week and make $800-$1000 a month, that would be great! I would have time to work on my other goals..do web and app development and learn Spanish. It seems that $800 is enough to get by on so I feel encouraged to come. I want to come in August. My other place of interest is Mexico, but I feel that Peru would be better for me. I currently live in Shanghai. By the way, do you think I could get work at an international school since my BA is not in education? Thanks.
  • Reply
    KellydeBorda Dec 21, 2011 @ 12:20 pm | delete
    I'm really not sure what all the requirements are for working in the International schools - I do know that there's a lot of competition for the positions.
  • Reply
    Jessi Jan 19, 2012 @ 4:56 am | delete
    Sorry to interrupt, but I can help with questions about the international school thing since that is what I do. The recruiting season is nearly over. I was hired the first week of January, but recruiting season goes into February. I do not know what jobs are still available. Your best options are to go directly to the school's website. Most schools have an employment section. Also it is helpful to sign up with one of the recruiting agencies, although this is not a cheap option. The Two biggest are Search Associates and International School Services. More and more international schools want you to have a Masters Degree. This is often a preference rather than a requirement though. The degree does not have to be in education, but you do have to be a certified teacher in your area. You also have to have two years teaching experience. I hope that helps.
  • Reply
    Lindrus Dec 12, 2011 @ 4:58 am | delete
    I would love to visit Peru! I had friends who lived there, but I never got a chance then to visit them so I don't know if it'll ever happen. It seems like such a beautiful country to visit.
  • Reply
    waldenthree.net Dec 11, 2011 @ 3:07 pm | delete
    I have done a lense on conservation and economic support for Peru Mountain people. Your topic is more popular of course. Peru is a beautiful contry with diverse native american cultures.
  • Reply
    tamecanatora Nov 10, 2011 @ 1:42 pm | delete
    I am planning on migrating to Lima next year March 2011. I will be moving with my 6 year old daughter. Please advise in terms of the education system, housing and health care. I would prefer to immerse in the culture so that my daughter can interact with other peruvians.
  • Reply
    KellydeBorda Nov 18, 2011 @ 11:59 am | delete
    That is way too much information to learn here on a simple blog comment - it would depend greatly on where you decided to live. I'd recommend that you go to expatperu.com - between their articles on living in Peru and the forums, you'll find all the information you're looking for.
  • Reply
    Jan Nov 9, 2011 @ 9:10 am | delete
    Thanks for the sound advice, arriving tomorrow. Can you advise re recommended hairdressers as travelling with broken wrist
  • Reply
    KellydeBorda Nov 9, 2011 @ 11:04 am | delete
    I don't go to hairdressers myself, but I can point you in the direction of some people who do! http://www.expatperu.com/expatforums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2819&p=12361&hilit=stylist#p12361

    Good luck!
  • Reply
    Tipi Oct 18, 2011 @ 12:49 pm | delete
    I saw this last night and I was too tired to give it justice and you had me hanging on your every word! I love the warning to avoid unscrupulous cabbies and I would so love to have been able to join in on that butterfly and moth study, now that is one amazing picture--didn't know that moths would pose and what a smile of delight you have, like you're in heaven. The Peruvian government seems to be very wise in training up the people to be the best ambassadors for tourism. Absolutely delightful and so inviting, you are an amazing writer!
  • Reply
    KellydeBorda Oct 18, 2011 @ 2:04 pm | delete
    Thanks so much Tipi - I really appreciate your very kind words!
  • Reply
    aesta1 Oct 12, 2011 @ 8:38 pm | delete
    Peru is still in our list...we definitely want to go. We have to find the time.
  • Reply
    kara Aug 15, 2011 @ 4:39 pm | delete
    Thanks for the helpful info! We are thinking about staying in Lima for a month in Feb with our 2 young children, primarily to immerse ourselves in Spanish (and warmer weather). Do you have any recommendations on a particular neighborhood, or apt complexes that will be better for small kids (3 and 4), and also provide opportunity for them to make friends as well? I did see some info on expatperu about parque kennedy and also the miraflores area but for now they are just names to me. Anyway, any suggestions would be great! thanks!
  • Reply
    Eli Aug 15, 2011 @ 7:43 pm | delete
    I think Miraflores is a good place, central located, near the beach , shopping, restaurants etc and the famous parque kennedy.I think the area between the district of Miraflores and Surco is fine.If you take your children to the park the can easily make new friends .If you find a¨condominio¨(group of small houses with a main door) could also be a safe option.
  • Reply
    KellydeBorda Aug 16, 2011 @ 1:20 pm | delete
    There are lots of great neighborhoods to stay, but if you're only staying for a month Miraflores is probably the best choice. It's very central and there's lots to do, plus there are lots of places available for short term rental - it is considered to be more of a "touristy" area around Parque Kennedy.
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KellydeBorda

Hi y'all - I'm an expatriated American from Florida, living in Lima, Peru. I love cooking, taking care of my pets and raising my kids. I also love traveling... more »

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