Labeling Costumes for a Theatrical Costume Shop
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How to choose and execute a system for labeling theatrical costumes
Labeling your theatre costume stock can be a great way to increase your efficiency when costuming shows, and also can prolong the life of your costumes. Organized costumes are happy costumes.
Every shop has it's own needs when it comes to labeling, and some methods that may be great for some may not be sensible for others. In this lens, I'll go over some of the different ways you can label costumes and give you some guidelines to choose the method that will work best for you. I'll also give you some tips on great supplies you'll need.
You want to look for a labeling system that will:
-Assist you and others with filing clothes away for storage
-Label the item with your shop name to help ensure return
-Give you a quick reference as to size as well as matching the item back up with it's partner pieces (if any)
Let's get started talking about costume labeling systems!
Every shop has it's own needs when it comes to labeling, and some methods that may be great for some may not be sensible for others. In this lens, I'll go over some of the different ways you can label costumes and give you some guidelines to choose the method that will work best for you. I'll also give you some tips on great supplies you'll need.
You want to look for a labeling system that will:
-Assist you and others with filing clothes away for storage
-Label the item with your shop name to help ensure return
-Give you a quick reference as to size as well as matching the item back up with it's partner pieces (if any)
Let's get started talking about costume labeling systems!
Is a Barcode System Right for You?
You may be wondering when it's good to begin using a barcode system.Barcode systems work better for theatrical shops that create duplicate costumes (or similar items as a set) in order to have the stock to produce 20-50 Oklahomas in one season. If EVERY item in your shop is different, it's going to be hard to match those barcodes up to a system that makes sense in a computer program. If you have hundreds of thousands of costumes (and some income and a substantial staff) then barcoding might be the right answer for you.
When it comes to barcoding, heat sealed labels are really the only way to go. This is expensive (several thousand for the hardware, average 25 cents per label, and it's hard to find) and a very big project to undertake. For this reason, I suggest barcode labels for only very large shops. Even with our 30,000 items, we didn't find it to be a cost-effective or time-effective solution for us.
Barcode Back and Forth
Things to Consider Before Investing in a Barcode System
There are very few cases where I feel a barcode system is really necessary. I've seen many theatres and small shops jump in to a barcode system prematurely, thinking that it's the tracking that would make them more efficient. Personally, I think that just getting organized will solve most of your efficiency issues. Here are some points about barcoding that you should consider before committing.
- 1Barcoding is a form of technology. Technology changes every nanosecond. By the time you've had volunteers or staffers spend 10,000 hours of time pressing in heat seal barcode tags, the scanners, codes, or computer software could be obsolete.
- 2Cost! Can you say expensive? About five years ago I did serious research into a barcode system for 30,000 costumes. $6000 for a heat seal machine, $7500 for bar code labels, $30,000 for costume tracking software. That doesn't count the IT support, staff hours (heat sealing AND data entry) and scanners.
- 3Lack of ability to give human beings information about the costume. So a barcode can hold massive amounts of information in a program. But what if you want to look at a label and see a size, or an aisle location? You can't. You'd have to label them again with a sew-in label if you want the label to tell the staffers anything except your shop name.
- 4Any time you change the information that the barcode holds, you have to change the data in the computer program. Move your costumes often as your stock changes? You'll have to do data entry. Distress something? Data entry. Someone alter something permanently? Data entry. Unreturned item? Data entry. Add inventory? Data entry. And the list goes on. Hope you like sitting at your computer.
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Why I Prefer Sew-In Labels
I prefer sew-in labels for a lot of reasons. The best reason is they're flexible! As a system, of course. You can use them to devise your own sensible, readable labeling system for your shop.The sew-in labels I like the most are from Conntext Labels. They're about 25 cents each. I order their labels, which come on a roll, as one printed line on a 4-line length label. The blank lines give you room to write your sizing information in, or other reference information (see photo for an example of the set up).
These labels will iron in, but I really prefer sewing them in on each side with a zigzag stitch covering the full length of each shorter side. If you backstitch 2 times or so up and down each side, you should be good to go.
Sew-In Label Pros and Cons
So I do really prefer sew-in labels. There are cases where a barcode heat seal label is better, but the flexibility of using a sew-in label can't be beat. Here are some pros and cons though to consider before committing to a sew-in labeling method.
- 1Cost. Again, these aren't cheap. If you want to label a shop with 20,000 costumes, it will be around $5000. Other than a sewing machine and some markers, there are no other supplies necessary though.
- 2It will also take hours to sew the labels in. If you're using staff, that equals money as well. Don't let that deter you completely, my 4-year labeling project made it possible for the shop I ran to eventually increase efficiency to the point we could rent out 5x as many costumes without having to hire anyone new. We could work THAT much faster.
- 3Permanancy. I'm talking systems again. The labels you can tear out, no big deal. The system you choose though is fairly permanent. So when you decide to begin labeling a section or type of costume, be really sure about how you're going to do it. You do NOT want to have to go back through hundreds of suits and relabel. 2 or 3 piece costumes especially. We spent a lot of time brainstorming before we decided on a system.
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Warning! Don't begin labeling yet!
WARNING: if your shop is relatively in order (meaning things are at least hanging up) do not make the mistake of begining with labels. Labelling is an attractive project, but if done too early, you can waste amazing amounts of time and money labeling costumes that you haven't become intimately familiar with yet. PLEASE do not do it.Case study: the theatre that I work at many years ago got a grant for labeling with computer bar code tags. It was a great idea, and we had lots of volunteers willing to help with the project. Countless hours were spent describing each item, putting a sticker inside with a label that related to its placement in the shop, entering it into the computer, creating and sewing in labels. We're talking a several-year project.
Unfortunately, it was done too early. No one cleaned things out first. Clothes with stains and tears were labeled on accident. Gloves were labeled (hundreds of gloves). The label industry had not advanced much yet and the printed labels were damaged by dry cleaning and washing in little time. The computer program used was DOS and couldn't be upgraded later on to be useful.
Like I said, labeling is great, but not when done too early. Please take your time cleaning out the shop before you decide to label things.
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Things to do before you start labeling
- Take stock of your stock. Know what you have, what you use, how you use it when you use it.
- Clean things out! Purge! Honestly, do you want to label a bunch of things that you're never going to use? Now's the perfect time to go through carefully and rid yourself of things you don't need or can get your hands on easilly without needing to use your precious storage space for it.
- Decide on your categories. Decide how your items are going to be laid out around your shop. By show, by size, by color, by length, by era? I recommend by era or style, but I've seen examples of each of these, believe it or not.
- Start slow. Try a section, try it out, see how it goes. You want to give yourself time to use your system a little and make sure it's working before you get carried away. It's easiest to make changes early on.
The Only Organizing Book You'll Ever Need
This book by Julie Morgenstern walks you through the mental process of organizing any area. Her tips apply just as well to a costume shop. To be honest, I would classify myself as someone who is naturally process-driven and organizing in this systematic way really comes naturally to me. The day I read this book though, I was able to explain what it is that makes it possible to get organized.
Her theories are great. For example, if you have a place for your shoes, but your shoes are ALWAYS left by the door and you're always having to go back and pick up after yourself--she suggests you create a system for your shoes by the door. Simple concept, but usually we don't do it. Read this book to see what you can learn by paying attention to your messes. That's the key to creating an organized space. Love this book!
Her theories are great. For example, if you have a place for your shoes, but your shoes are ALWAYS left by the door and you're always having to go back and pick up after yourself--she suggests you create a system for your shoes by the door. Simple concept, but usually we don't do it. Read this book to see what you can learn by paying attention to your messes. That's the key to creating an organized space. Love this book!
Organizing from the Inside Out, Second Edition: The Foolproof System For Organizing Your Home, Your Office and Your Life
Amazon Price: $5.99 (as of 06/02/2012)
Absolutely THE best organizing book on the planet. Teaches you how to systematically think in a way that makes you organize to fit your own needs. It's the organizational bible.
Measure Carefully Before You Label!
Measuring your costumes very carefully is very important. When doing the labeling, choose to start with the sections you use the most and need measurements in. Here are some basics for measuring:Busts: lay the garment flat. Measure from underarm to underarm and double. For strapless dresses it's best to unzip them and measure around the inside for a proper measurement. Round down to nearest even inch (36, 38, 40).
Waists: lay the garment flat. Measure accross the waist and double. Round down to nearest even number.
Suit size: This may not be industry standard, but it's what works for me. Turn the suit to the back, lay it flat. The arm seams will make sort of a backwards parenthesis shape. ) ( Measure from the center of each curve accross the back. You should get a measurement between 15 and 22. The sizing goes as follows:
17 = 34 (fits a man with a 34 inch chest)
17.5 = 36
18 = 38
18.5 = 40
And so on. Each half inch is one size. Length is from the nape seam to the back hem, 30 is short, 31 regular, 32 long, 33 extra long.
Pants: lay the garment flat, measure the waist as above. For inseam, measure from the crotch seam down the leg to the hem. For elastic waists, I usually put the smallest to largest comfortable measurements.
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The Only Marker You'll Ever Need
Markers! I spent months searching for just the perfect marker. The one that I found that worked the best was the Sharpie Industrial Ultra Fine Point marker. The tip is narrow enough that you can get a lot of legible information on a small label, and it doesn't fade until after many, many washings. It holds up equally as well in dry clean costumes. The other thing I like is that when it does start to fade, it doesn't bleed like some markers do. You can just write over the same writing again and it's clear to read once more.
Sharpie Extra Fine Industrial Permanent Markers, 12 Black Markers(13801)
Amazon Price: $8.49 (as of 06/02/2012)
Designers and Crew Gift Ideas
Already Labeling? Fight the Boredom!
So let's say you volunteer or work at a costume shop and you've decided to carefully and thoughtfully deploy a labelling project to organize your stock. You've checked out some tips on labeling from the blog, of course, and you're ready to get started.
How long will the excitement take to wear off? A week? A day? I suppose it depends on how many people you're working with. Personally, in a nine year span of time I spent the better part of over 9 full months 40 hours a week sewing in labels. Alone. It was worth it-it saved hours and hours of time sorting, organizing and searching for costumes in the years that came after.
I listened to hours and hours of books to keep occupied. For those of us who are creative and imaginative, it's hard (really hard) to sit and sew in 500 labels a day if you're alone with only the whirr of the machine to keep you company.
How long will the excitement take to wear off? A week? A day? I suppose it depends on how many people you're working with. Personally, in a nine year span of time I spent the better part of over 9 full months 40 hours a week sewing in labels. Alone. It was worth it-it saved hours and hours of time sorting, organizing and searching for costumes in the years that came after.
I listened to hours and hours of books to keep occupied. For those of us who are creative and imaginative, it's hard (really hard) to sit and sew in 500 labels a day if you're alone with only the whirr of the machine to keep you company.
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Place Labels with a Consistant System
It is important to place your labels where they will be easy to see and consistant from garment to garment. I use the following system:For items that open in the front (like shirts and some dresses), I place them in the neck band top center, so they show under the hanger when hanging on the rack.
For items that close in the back (like dresses that zip), I place them on the inside left of the zipper near the top edge. This is so that when they are hanging, hanger hook to the left when looking at it (always hang clothes in the same direction so you can flip through them like you were reading), the tag is closest to you.
To sew the labels in I use a zigzag stitch up and down on each side, covering the entire side edges. I usually use white thread to match the label, and change the bobbin thread for different color groups when it's important to have the thread match the item. For shirts and jackets with collars, it won't show.
Labelling costumes is time consuming. I sometimes spend the summer months sewing labels when business is slow, and can usually do several thousand in a summer. It's repetative work but important and saves SO much time in the long run.
For pants and knickers, I place them on the waistband over the back right pocket.
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About Avgsuperheroine
Feedback? Experiences with a labeling system you love or hate?
Tell us all about it!
I hope you found this page helpful! Check out the blog post links in the sidebar and links to my other lenses for more information about costume shop organizing.
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Gramajane
Feb 9, 2012 @ 10:16 am | delete
- I came up with this idea for my own costumes, (I have had about 5 hundred) and it really saves time and money. Use ribbon from a roll (about 1/2 inch satin works for me) and cut each label at the diagonal off the roll, so it does not fray. Use tiny safety pins to pin the labels in. I also found that fine point sharpie markers are the best.
--- I have also worked in our little local theater with their costumes. I like to organize in several different ways. Some are according to the show, some time ear, and some are basics. Within the above areas, I again organize by gender, color and size.
On the label I like to put the name of the Main area, (60s, ) and the measurement of the bust & waist (realizing things can be taken in, but it is usually more difficult to make them larger). I am toying with the idea of using a second ribbon to color code the racks and make it faster,m with having an area at the end of each rack for a QUICK return, -- to encourage at least hanging them up near the right area, and someone to follow along to insert back to correct space.
I plan to use the alphabet along with numbers to make it easier to add to areas. So I can have (1-A, 60s, 30"waist,
I have yet to search for a computer program so things are easier to find.
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jadehorseshoe
Dec 25, 2011 @ 1:14 pm | delete
- Very USEFUL Lens.
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by avgsuperheroine
I've been involved with Community Theatre for over 15 years, and an employee at one for almost 10. I also have a busy family life with a wonderful husband... more »
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