Land of The Littles: Getting To Know Parrotlets

Ranked #752 in Pets & Animals, #21,612 overall

Tips, Talk, And Tales From A 5 Inch Parrotlet

I've been thinking about it.  I think we need a Parrotlet lens written by an expert.  So here I am!

My name is Nemo, and I'm a blue mutation Pacific Parrotlet (that's Forpus coelestis for you studious types).

As a human interested in Parrotlets, you are about to embark on a journey of fun, feathers, and facts.  And since I'm your guide, grab a piece of spray millet, (that's for me...NOT for you!), sit down, and enjoy the tour!

AM I THE RIGHT BIRD FOR YOU?

Thanks, I already have a home. But if Parrotlets interest you, read on.....

Parrotlets may be beyond cute and yes, everything we do IS adorable....but you have to be prepared to put in a lot of time, cost, and attention to detail to assure our well-being.

Imagine if you will, a relatively large cage, (we are active, require space, and need a lot of toys and things to do to keep us amused), a good, healthy diet full of variety, a safe, clean environment to live in, (we are very small, are easily injured, and require constant supervision when out of cage), and most of all, YOUR attention. If a parrotlet bonds with you, expect that they are going to EXPECT regular time with you daily. Period. And as much as you can give.

Did I mention the spunk? No? Okay...here's the thing....

As tiny and adorable as we are, Parrotlets are true parrots, and have all the attributes of our larger Amazon cousins, (if not an outright Napoleon Complex). We are quick to react to what we perceive as threatening around us, and with good reason....we are small, the world is big, and there are a lot of things that could eat us if given half the chance. Our instinct for survival says so. When you're this small, it's think fast or go home. We also communicate very well with our body language...and if you can't "read" the message, we'll act it out louder and clearer until you get it.
This means you need to have a lot of patience, a good sense of humour, and can't take things personally.

On the flip side, we can be very affectionate, entertaining, and develop a very close relationship of trust with you.
You have to earn that trust in the beginning, and that can take some time, (particularly if we have had frightening experiences in the past, haven't been well socialized from the start, have been rehomed, or are simply the shy type).

Having us as a companion can be one of the best things in life. It can also turn out tragically if you are not fully prepared before you bring a Parrotlet home. Ask questions. Read. Join a reputable Parrotlet group or forum BEFORE you purchase or adopt. Learn as much as you can, and be honest with yourself as to how much time and effort you are really willing to put in....for an extended number of years....to have a Parrotlet in your life.

GREAT INFO.....CHEEP!

Do The Research, Dude!

ParrotletsPlus
A Yahoo group dedicated to providing information and advice for the well being of Parrotlets from experienced owners and breeders.
The largest Parrotlet group on the web.
Guidelines for Good Care
A Bird's Needs by Stewart A. Metz, M.D.
A concise article and heartfelt look at what it's like to be a bird in a home.
Parrotlet Ranch
A good introductory article to Parrotlet species and care from one of the leading experts on Parrotlets, Sandee Molenda.

I DON'T READ EM', BUT I'LL SHRED THEM FOR YOU!

Common...you get the book, and I'll beakmark your favorite pages!

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THAT GUY ACROSS THE ROOM 

ONE? TWO? THREE?

How Many Parrotlets Do You Need?

I understand, and I've seen it with my own eyes....a couple of baby Parrotlets snuggled together. Resistance is futile. It's hard not to bring both home, or you may be told that you should take both for their well being.

Before you make the decision to acquire more than one parrotlet at the same time, or are considering housing two parrotlets in the same cage, please be aware of a few VERY important issues:

1) Siblings depend on one another as small babies...for warmth, comfort, and safety in numbers. But there comes a time when a bird hits maturity. Most birds are hardwired not to mate and raise clutches with their own family relatives. Becoming mature means getting out there and establishing your own territory and finding a suitable mate. A sibling is not a suitable mate.
What this means is that the two brothers you brought home will likely start to fight at some point, and risk of injury of the less dominant male is a very real concern. A male/female sibling pair offers even more threat, as advances to mate later on must be swiftly and decisively rejected. Deaths of one, or the other of a male/female sibling pair housed in the same cage are not uncommon, and are a tragic "surprise". Female siblings housed in the same cage pose an enormous risk. Injury or death is very likely to occur at some point.

2) Non-related parrotlets may have exactly the same issues. Two males may fight or injure one another. Two females almost certainly will.
A male/female pairing of non-related birds poses one or two scenerios. The first is that the pair bonds very strongly, and you become the "odd man out". People are often dismayed when their parrotlet pair wants very little to do with them, and consequently, these birds are often rehomed because they are no longer interactive pets.
At some point, a "mated" pair is going to want to set up shop and raise babies. But most people do not have the time, nor the experience necessary to adequately deal with a breeding pair, their chicks, and all the responsibility that comes along with reputable breeding practises that ensure the health and well being of the parents, the chicks, and the species as a whole.
And, simply because you put a male and female together, doesn't mean they will get along or tolerate one another living in the same small space.

If you are considering adopting an already "mated" pair who have established a bond, and who have been housed together should not be split up. But again, be aware that you will not be the main focus of their lives, and it is within a couple's right to see you as a threat rather than a companion.

So....if you still want to have more than one parrotlet, be prepared to house each bird in a separate cage. That means two (or more) cages to clean, deck out with all the necessary toys and perches, and birds who will each require your attention.

Out of cage, two parrotlets may get along or tolerate one another's presence...or they may not. Interactions must be strictly supervised until you have a good sense of both personalities. It is very unlikely that two mature females will tolerate one another under any circumstance, so separate out of cage time or time with you may be necessary for each bird.

The best situation is to start small. Gain some experience with your single pet. Form a bond with one bird first. If you find you have the time, energy, and expense account to provide a home for another one, then go from there.

THE GIRL NEXT DOOR 

MY HOME IS MY CASTLE!

Let's Talk Cages, Toys, and Perches!

Talking turkey here, the MINIMUM recommended cage size for us Littles is 18" wide x 18" deep x 24" high with a MAXIMUM bar spacing of 1/2", (we also do very well in 3/8" bar spacing). But the reality is that this is too small for a Parrotlet's needs. My rule of wing, is to buy the largest cage you can afford, and remember that me and my folk sometimes have to spend hours a day in a confined space. There just isn't enough room for our activity level and the amount of toys we require in a minimum sized cage.

That said, if you are bringing home a very young Parrotlet, you may want to start with a cage this size for the first few weeks until he or she gets used to the new environment...too much space to start can be overwhelming to some youngsters. And, we do tend to be a bit clumsy on those big feet of ours, so getting a grip, and sometimes falling is the name of the game until we grow into those feet. You can "size up" to a larger cage a bit later, and use the smaller cage for a travel or sleep cage. It's actually a handy thing to have.

Make sure that the cage you purchase is safe. Birds do not do well in round cages of any kind, and cages that are too ornate limit your ability to hang toys, swings, or attach perches. Old, antique cages were often made of unsafe metals or paints that can lead to metal toxicity. It's best to steer clear of those.

If you are purchasing a used cage, do so in a way in which you can inspect the cage for chipped powder coating, rusting, cracked plastic and general safety...and don't forget to disinfect the cage completely before use, (and please don't include any of the used toys or perches that may come with such a cage. Many of these items cannot be adequately disinfected, and should just be tossed).

There are a variety of perches to choose from now, and the days of providing your bird with all dowelling perches is long gone. Remember, we stand on our feet 25/7, and having the same diameter of perch, or the same material of perch is hard on the dogs! Good choices for perches for Parrotlets include:

ROPE OR "BOODA" PERCHES
NATURAL BRANCH PERCHES
DRAGON WOOD
CHOLLA
GRAPEVINE
CAJPUTE

I love toys, and lots of them! But do remember that safety comes first. Small plastic budgie toys with small parts that could crush or break aren't usually appropriate for a Parrotlet. Cotton toy dangles should be trimmed to no more than 1/2" so that we don't get tiny toes caught (or worse!). Toys with metal parts or links should be made of stainless steel, and should be checked thoroughly for any gaps, flaws, or poor welding or construction, (you'd be surprised what some Parrotlets manage to get their beaks caught in). Bells should have clappers rather than "jingles", (those are real toe and beak catchers), and should be sturdy. Always check toys on a regular basis to make sure loose threads are trimmed or the toy replaced and that the toy is holding up to the beak.

Until you know your Parrotlet's play habits well, close supervision with new items is a must...particularly those that could be picked at or ingested.

If you make your own toys, choose a supplier of bird-safe parts that are vegetable tanned, use non-toxic colours, and are made with the safety of birds in mind. Toy parts from a reputable supplier are generally no more expensive than trying to mix and match from large general retail stores, and you'll find more variety in parts too!

SOME OF THE BEST CHEW TOYS ARE FREE!

This is a long time acquaintance of mine. His name is "Flash".
He has a thing for beards.
I'm not into that, but each to his own.
powered by Youtube
Most Parrotlet's enjoy chewing, but remember how small we are. We can't manipulate large wooden beads or blocks, so they really aren't that much fun. Beak approved choices are natural fibre toys, (agave cactus chews, palm leaf, dried corn husk, sea grass, hemp rope), "KILL IT!" toys, (like bells, toys that ring, rattle, crackle or clack),
We also enjoy toys to snuggle up to. Some of us enjoy huts, but the girls may start to view an enclosed hut as a nest cavity when mature and this can result in egg laying, so be careful here....something a little more open may be preferable.

In general, a Parrotlet requires a variety of toys from chewable to bashable to comforting. Even if a Parrotlet doesn't appear to actively and rambunctiously "play", toys provide places to hide behind, sit beside, and interesting things to look at. Toys should be rotated regularly as well, but do leave something I'm actively playing with or chewing on daily ALONE!
I LIKE it where it IS!

OTHER ACCOUTREMENTS OF GOOD LIVING!

  • AN APPROPRIATE SIZED BATH RECEPTACLE
  • CUTTLEBONE and MINERAL BLOCK
  • TREAT CLIPS AND TREAT CUPS (for foraging fun around my cage)
  • AN APPROPRIATE SIZED PLAYSTAND, PLAYGYM, OR PLAYBASKET

PARROTLET BEAKED AND APPROVED!

Good stuff!

I like stuff. I need a lot of safe stuff to play with and keep me amused.

Here's my picks for the best of the best...
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GOOD EATS AND TREATS!

I am very food motivated! Most parrotlets are. You see, we are active little birds with high metabolisms, and are not prone to obesity like some of our other, larger Amazon cousins. You'd be amazed at how much we can eat in a day, given our size!

Because we are tiny (but VERY FEISTY...remember that...it comes in handy later!), our diet should be as varied as possible so that we receive adequate nutrients. Neither all seed, nor all pellet really fits for us. We also need a wide variety of fresh vegetables and fruits, (with a little caveat to the fruit...we tend to like fruits with small seeds we can pick at such as berries, kiwi, fig, etc. rather than the usual apples to oranges). Cooked whole grains and legumes aren't a bad idea either. And "bird sprouts" are usually accepted as one of our first "new" foods, (they look familiar, but are packed with nutrition!).

Buying organic for small birds isn't a bad idea. The amounts of "safe" pesticide residues are always the ones given for humongous people, and there is no research available on how these effect us.

As for treats, anything that we love is a treat...but make it wholesome and nutritious...we have very little room for empty calories or excess bad stuff. Personally, I enjoy spray millet, hot dried chili pepper seeds, dried unsulphured figs, freeze dried berries, and I'll kiss a duck for a bit of almond!

So my best advice is to invest in a small mini-chopper for fresh veggies, (some of us like it small, some of us like it big...you might need to experiment with each of us), and Easy Sprouter for sprouting whole grains, unhulled seeds, and legumes, and a good sponge to wipe off your wallpaper with, (yes, we fling! Don't all parrots?).

Important!

PARROTLETS SHOULD NOT HAVE:

Caffeine
Alcohol
Avocado (this is toxic to birds).
Salt added foods
Sugar added foods
Apple seeds or fruit pits
Uncooked members of the alum family (garlic, onions, shallots, etc.)
Chocolate

TAILS UP PUMPKIN QUINOA

A Warm, Cooked Meal Can Brighten Up Any Parrotlet's Day.

SEED THE BIRDY!

Seeds should be a part of your Parrotlet's diet...but not JUST your Parrotlet's diet.

When it comes to seed mixes, please remember....I'm NOT a Parakeet!
Budgie mixes are formulated for parakeets, and a lot of parakeets have problems with obesity...so budgie mix is often very low in fat.
Because parrotlets don't normally have a propensity to put on the extra ounces, we do require a seed mix that has a few "oil type" seeds. Safflower, sunflower, hemp, flax are all examples of oil type seeds.
So when it come to a seed mix for us, try a cockatiel seed mix instead of a budgie.

I've only ever found one actual seed mix made for Parrotlets, and that's Volkman's Super Parrotlet mix.
It has seeds, dried veggies and a bit of dried fruit, legumes, and best of all...dried hot chili peppers! Everything is my size for my beak.
Good stuff!

Don't forget that I need plenty of other foods as well, and cannot maintain my health on seeds or pellets alone.

I'M IN THE FLINGIN' BUSINESS!

 

Pucci the seed digger in action
by ThebigredViking | video info

3 ratings | 988 views
curated content from YouTube

CHEF NEMO'S PICKS ....

....AND PECKS

Here's the stuff I'm talking about!
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LET'S TALK!

No wait... I'll talk, you listen!

It is estimated that 70% of us boys talk, while 20% of the girls have something to say.
Just like songbirds who must learn their song, Parrotlets and most other parrots go through a "practise" phase when learning new phrases. The cadence may be correct, but the actual word or phrase must be practised. We usually like to do this when alone before we try out our speaking voice in public.
Our tone of voice when using words has been described as "robotic" or "like Donald Duck on helium". I'm not appreciative of either description!

Please don't get a Parrotlet, or any other parrot simply because we have the potential to use your speech.
Some of us enjoy talking right TO you. Others are "closet talkers", and won't be inclined to impress your friends or utter a single word while you are in the room...preferring to talk when alone. And many of us just don't wanna at all. Some of us are very clear and relatively easy to hear, and some speak softly.

Many people overlook the very good pet potential of a female, simply because she is a tad on the quiet side. But sometimes, us boys can also be much louder, with a constant chit chat of sounds or strident chirping that some people find cute at first, but not so much after a couple of years.
It comes with the territory, (actually, it occurs because most males are responsible for defending a breeding territory, keeping track of all their male "neighbors", and therefore are more continuously vocal...that's where talking potential occurs...so it can be a mixed ballgame).

Although Parrotlets can't actually scream like some of the larger parrot species, you really should familiarize yourself with how a parrotlet sounds before purchasing or adopting to make sure our vocalizations are pleasing to your ear.
I mean...some people find the cooing of a dove annoying, or the song of a canary...it's a personal thing.

So here's a video of yours truly, and if you CRANK THE VOLUME, you should be able to pick up my favorite phrase.

I also say "Scritchies", (when I want my head rubbed), "No Bites!" (when I don't want my head rubbed), and I also do a pretty good rendition of a cell phone camera. I like to laugh too.
Nemo "Kiss Kiss"
by wilddove6 | video info

56 ratings | 22,340 views
curated content from YouTube
Here's a little beak with the gift of gab named "Koolaid".
He must be British, he's so polite with that "Excuse Me!" all the time.
If someone was bothering me eating my toast, I don't think I'd be that polite.
Parrotlet Koolaid talking - telling me to shush?!
by jxh0703 | video info

79 ratings | 24,324 views
curated content from YouTube

DID I MENTION SPITFIRE?

What You Should Know About Biting And Nipping, And What You Can Forget!

I'll say it out loud and I'll say it proud....do Parrotlets bite?....you BET!
The thing is, all parrots will bite or nip at some point in their lives, and if you are not prepared for that, no parrot is going to make a good pet for you.
However, if you take to the time to understand what might trigger us to bite, learn to be observant of our body language, and read up on some POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT techniques, we'll get along just fine!

First of all, let's put a common myth to rest:

" Parrots Want To Be Dominant And You Need To Assert Yourself As 'Flock Leader'."

This is a common mistake made by many publications and many bird behavior experts. Luckily, the times are a changin'!
Research of many parrot species in the wild has shown that most parrots flock for reasons of safety while foraging, but spend much of their time socializing with their mate or trying to find a suitable mate. There is no evidence to suggest that one bird holds a dominant position over the flock, or that parrots live in a social hierarchy.
Rather, it pays to "get along".
That means that, in the wild, it's rare for birds to bite or nip one another. It uses up far too much in the way of necessary energy stores to start a physical fight when most birds easily recognize that they are too close for comfort through their body language.
What is unfortunate in "dominance" training techniques for Parrotlet owners, is that is sets up some bad behaviors...excessive biting, excessive fear, or a lack of trust in the relationship between owner and pet.

Remember that we are very small and very much a "Prey Species". This means YOU have to earn our trust...slowly and patiently and consistently. Many people feel it's okay to grab us right out of our cage, chase us around to pick us up, or confine us in a hold to be scratched or petted. Would you do this with a Macaw? Probably not. And if you did, you'd expect to get some chunks of skin removed and stitches to show off to your friends.
Parrotlets can't inflict that kind of damage, but please respect that we ARE parrots. We can have grouchy days when we are molting or hormonal and we may not feel like being touched. We may be afraid of something nearby and are warning you to flee. Just like you, we want to have some control over our own environment and be free to make choices.

The Beak Book: Understanding, Preventing, and Solving Aggression and Biting Behaviors in Companion Parrots

Amazon Price: $39.95 (as of 02/13/2012)Buy Now

How birds use their beaks to communicate, why birds bite, and how pet bird owners can solve biting issues with positive techniques that earn mutual trust.
Nemo recommended!

One rule of thumb with behavior experts is to avoid the bite. Making a big deal about nipping, such as yelling "NO BITE!", can actually reinforce biting so that it occurs more frequently, or much harder. Watching and reading body language before a bite happens is the key. Most birds won't go that extra mile and deliver that bee sting bite without letting you know you're pushing the envelope first. Respect that, back off, and don't force a bird to do something at that moment that it doesn't want to do. Often, if you heed the warning, a bird knows you "get it", and he or she doesn't have to resort to biting.

Methods like distraction and Positive Reinforcement go a long way to reducing nips and bites as well.
There are many Positive Reinforcement techniques, but for me, Clicker Training has got to be the funnest ever!

Clicker Training is a positive way to interact with your Parrotlet that involves good things like treats and praise. You start of with basic "tricks", but eventually, more complex behaviors can be trained. It doesn't really matter though...what counts is that you are spending quality time with your Parrotlet that keeps his or her mind active and thinking...and yours too! It's fun, and helps to develop a bond of trust. In the end, when Positive Reinforcement techniques are increased, "bad behavior" such as biting and nipping decrease and is replaced with voluntary co-operation.

And if you don't think a tiny Parrotlet can be clicker trained, have a look at my friend Rory here. She just started clicker training, and look at how much fun she's having, (I mean why not? She's getting millet!). Her human friend sounds like she's having a blast too!
So without further ado...
Here's Rory strutting her stuff in "Dancing Bird"!
Rory 025.AVI
by sandyvern | video info

1 rating | 766 views
curated content from YouTube

HOW TO START CLICKER TRAINING

Have Clicker And Millet? I'm There!

Melinda Johnson is one of the premier Clicker Training gurus.
This is her Yahoo Group.
If you join, everything you need to know about how to start Clicker Training is at your fingertips, and you get the benefit of being able to ask questions as you go along.
Moderators on the group are exceptionally helpful, and go out of their way to assist beginners and pros alike.
Bird Click
A Yahoo Group dedicated to Clicker Training birds using Positive Reinforcement.
Melinda Johnson has also written this handy guide to Clicker Training.
It starts with your very first steps, (and mine), and gives you a good reference guide to all of the basic principles behind positive reinforcement and clicker fun!

Clicker Training for Birds (Getting Started)

Amazon Price: $10.81 (as of 02/13/2012)Buy Now

PARROTLET FAQ

You Asked For It!

1) What Is The Lifespan Of A Parrotlet?

Well...the potential lifespan of a Parrotlet is considered to be 20 years. That's "potential". Unfortunately, the number one cause of a Parrotlet not reaching his or her potential is accidental death. Wild-caught breeder Parrotlets have reached a bit beyond 20 years of age, but no one is sure how long we actually live "on average" in captivity, because Parrotlets haven't been bred and raised in captivity for very long.

2) Which Makes a Better Companion...A Male Or A Female Parrotlet?

Males tend to be popular because of talking potential. But in reality, the girls are every bit as friendly, outgoing, cuddly, and opinionated as us guys...they're just a little quieter while they do it. Sure, female Parrotlets have times when they are hormonal or grumpy or nippy, but not any more or less so than the boys. Both genders make wonderful companions as long as you return the favour!

3) Are Colour Mutations More Docile Than Green Parrotlets?
Some people like to think so, but in reality, each Parrotlet has his or her own unique personality. You will find fiesty blues, (like me!), and shy green birds, and boisterous yellows too. We are still the same species, simply with different coloured feathers.

4) What Species Of Parrotlets Are Currently Available As Pets?
The Pacific Parrotlet, (with different colour mutations), are the most widely found species and the most popular. Occasionally, the smaller Green-rumped Parrotlet can be found, or the slightly larger Spectacled Parrotlet, but these latter two species are becoming increasingly rare as pets. The largest Parrotlet, the Yellow-faced, is very rare, both in captivity and in the wild, and it is hoped that remaining birds be used for conservation breeding only, rather than the pet trade. Although not as endangered as the Yellow-faced, the Mexican Parrotlet is not widely found in North America.

5) How Much Does A Parrotlet Cost?
The cost of a Parrotlet depends on two things...the region in which you live, (how available Parrotlets are there), and whether you purchase a colour mutation or a green bird. Green Parrotlets are not as rare as some of the colour mutations and therefore, are often less expensive. A typical green Parrotlet is about $100-$150, but a blue Parrotlet like me can be as much as $300.00 if blue Parrotlets are not widely available in a particular area. White or yellow Parrotlets can be more.
There will be places where Parrotlets are sold very cheaply, and that's a shame. First of all, you may not be getting a healthy or well-bred or socialized bird if you purchase a Parrotlet that is much cheaper than the going rate for your area. Also, cheap birds are seen as "throw-away" birds that don't require medical care if sick, or are rehomed continuously when someone tires of them.
Please remember that if you have chosen to bring any bird into your home, the cost of the bird itself is not the whole story. You need to consider the on-going costs of a responsibly large cage, toys, food, and set aside money for regular vet check-ups and emergency illnesses....just like any pet. We deserve no less than that.

COMING SOON TO LAND OF THE LITTLES!

Heh Relax! I'm Relaxed!.....and the long and skinny on being "LONG & SKINNY!" Read My Body Language!

Pretty obvious this gal is liking the attention.
Notice the Zen-like facial expression, the head tilted forward in solicitation.
She's enjoying this!

Watch for further episodes...coming soon!

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wilddove6

My name is Nemo. I'm a Pacific Parrotlet, and I've just stayed up WAY past my bed time creating this lens for you, (notice the squint-eyed look).
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