Lapidary

Click here to join the Lapidary Community WebRing

For those of you unfamiliar with WebRings. It is a great opportunity to give your site exposure on the internet. I researched many before I decided to join up with the WebRing Community, a pioneer in social networking. Since 1994, their members have created over 40,000 communities visited by three million people a month.

It is pretty hot exposure. I am seeing several hits a day from a number of rings I have added my gemstone site to.

I just created this lapidary WebRing, and it is for all gemstone websites that offer lapidary information, services, education, or anything else related to the art of lapidary. Joining a ring specific to lapidary is a great opportunity to show off your niche in the world of lapidary. At the same time it offers the chance to show off the gemstones that you have made resulting from your artistic lapidary skills, promote your lapidary services, and or share other lapidary and gemstone related information about your website.

You can click on the images for larger picture and more details

I thought it might be cool to offer some stones with different kinds of vugs in them within my store inventory so that folks who like to design jewelry can find interesting ways to use the vug while wrapping the stone.

Not knowing how to wire wrap myself, after some discussion, I asked an experienced jewelry designer to wrap one for me. What I was hoping for was to actually use the vug in a way as to run the wire through it as part of the overall wrap design, instead of just the perimeter of the stone.

The picture above shows what I am talking about by utilizing the vug into the overall wire wrap design.

There are many different ways that this stone or any other stone with a vug can be wrapped in a way that the wire can be run through and highlight the beauty of the vug. It does not have to cover too much of the stone, and so it also compliments the wrap very nicely which can be just as beautiful as the stone if not more so sometimes. The overall design offers a nice happy medium between stone and wire design.

The lady who wrapped this one picked an excellent design. I am very happy to be able to use this one as an example to others. Hopefully initiating a fresh little spark of creativity. With a little luck, considering purchasing stones like this from my store so they to can give it a whirl too.

Nice vugs do not present themselves all that often while cutting up slabs.

I will probably create a special area in store eventually specific to these special stones. Since they don't really come up that often, it may be that if someone is interested in these types of stones, they can let me know and I will in return simply contact them when they come up while I am slicing various rough minerals.

The one in the photo is a Dryhead agate. If they are all gone once you have read this post, you can also view what some of them looked like by checking out my most recent items.

As of this blog posting, I do have some stones with vugs in stock. Don't be surprised if they are sold ! Remember, if you would like to wrap one of these stones with a vug using your own special creative vug wrap design, just contact me and we can talk about the different types of minerals and make arrangements for me to contact you when one of these unique stones present themselves while slabbing.

Dryhead agate with vugs in stock
Youngite agate with vugs in stock
Indonesian Fossilized Coral with vugs in stock

Link To Proper Water Lubrication For Lapidary Gemstone Abrasive Belts

It seems like every time I bring another piece of equipment home the fittings that let the water flow over the abrasive belts only give enough water to get the very center of the belts wet.
I am always wearing out the center of the belts and find myself juggling the belts from side to side so that the water might be able to put the little stream of water over another part of the belt.
The other day I picked up some rain drip spray devices that you have probably seen set around bushes and plants that supply a small amount of spray.
I thought it might be the solution to the problem I have been having.
The first pic shows what the spray looks like under the pressure of a regular water pump. The camera shot sort of makes it look more like heavy drops, but in fact it is a real nice spray.
The second image is the rain drip spray device rigged up to my belt sander as an example.
It sure works great on the belt sander, and completely sprays water over the entire width of the belt.
I have not yet been able to afford the switch from silicon carbide to diamond paper yet, but this was another reason for getting a handle on this.
If I am going to spend a ton of money on diamond belts, I sure do not want to throw all the diamond off the belt because it is not getting proper water supply.
I am going to set these same spray devices up on all my other abrasive wheels as well.

March 15-08

Link to Gemstone Grinding and Sanding

For myself, getting the feel of the sanding process was and still is key to successful cabbing. The only thing I might add to the forums gemstone sanding thread is knowing when to consider to change out to new abrasives. I am still using silicon carbide. I have not made the important change over to diamond yet. One of our forums member, Seth, has mentioned several times the importance of using diamond.

One of my immediate realistic goal is to purchase something like one of the Gennie cabbing units. After working with another forum members one day, it became apparent the importance of having that type of set up if a person is going to make this a long term hobby or business.

Don't get me wrong..... Just starting out, there is absolutely nothing at all wrong with the silicon carbide abrasives. I still continue to be able to turn out some nice cabs. It is the ease of the process that is increased when using a set up like one of the Genies that I look forward too enjoying on a daily basis.

So for now....., using silicon carbide abrasives can be a combination of using a new 100 grit belt as a 100 grit belt. Then finding myself using it in place of something like a 220 grit when it becomes somewhat worn. Same thing with a 220. I will use it as a 220 when new, and then find myself using it like I might a newer 400 or even a 600 grit belt as it becomes worn.

Agates are a big indicator for me as to when it is time to change into a new belt. As the guide above explains..... Always watching the progress of the removal of sanding scratches. After a short time it began to be second nature what to expect the surface of a stone to look like when finishing the 100 grit. Knowing that it was completely ready to move on to the next finer grit, and so on just prior to polishing. Remembering all along not to use a lot of pressure. Letting each of the abrasives do their own thing.

The same is true if using silicon carbide or diamond. Maybe more so with diamond in regards to remembering to let the abrasive do the work. Diamond will only grind or polish in accordance to it's individual abrasive grit. Not pressure. Especially not pressure....

Any hooo...... just wanted to bring this topic to the forefront again. For me, getting a handle on the sanding process was the most important thing. Once I started to understand it, and actually get a feel for it, the processes become clearer and easier. The results were less aggravation and less time spent returning to previous grits two and three times . Maybe others would like to add their experiences here as well, and or correct me on any of this as I am in fact still fairly new and still learning...

January 1-08

Gemstone cabochon sanding guide and tips for beginning lapidary shop learning

I felt the need to share from Gemstones and Minerals, A Guide for the Amateur Collector and Cutter by Paul Villiard. Credit for the following goes to the author.

When reading through the chapter about sanding, I found myself very, very interested. For myself I still have difficulties with the sanding and polishing. So for anyone reading and finding themselves in a similar situationon the best methods for getting the scratches out in a proper order via the correct abrasives, then this may help to you too.

The best work is done on the drums, while using the belts covered with diamond powder. I myself have not yet switched from silicon carbide to diamond yet, but it will be the very next paper I purchase as of this post.

Two talked about in this part of the book are the grades. 220-mesh, and 15 micron . Then the silicon carbide that come in a variety of grades, from the 100 mesh to the 600 for the final sanding.
The author recommends the diamond tools all the way through the gem cutting. His reason is that diamond abrasives do cut smoother, faster, cleaner and they last from 50 up to 100 times as long as other abrasives. The rather high initial cost far out weighs the life of the tool, and the ease and accuracy of cutting far exceed all other methods.

The author suggests two grades of diamond belts are all you really need to sand to the point of polished. If you don't use diamond, then silicon carbide grades of 220 and 400 for the second polish, and on to the 600 for final. It is also suggested to have a machine for the belts with a minimum of two drums.

I have found this to be all so true as I struggle through the sanding process. This will be my very next piece of equipment purchase. Another arbor unit for the two additional belts readily available. I located one, and will be picking it up soon. Be sure to try for the expanding rubber drums for use with either the diamond or silicon carbide belts.

The stone is held against the belt with just enough pressure so as to cause the belt to cut. You immediately will feel a very slight pull of the belt while it is cutting. No more pressure should be applied, because the belt will not cut faster. This was a big tip for myself ! This particularly applies to the diamond belts, since they cut so readily that much less pressure is required. Besides, you do not want to chance the belt getting dry and throwing the diamond abrasive off your 50 dollar belt. At no time should the stone stop moving against the belt. Keep it rotating in a smooth even curve, covering every point on the face. Over and over, touching each point, making sure as to sand down along the edges as well as on the face. He then goes on to say that it is the sanding of the stone that is the most important part of gem cutting. It may take an hour or even two to sand the stone to a point of polish, but unless every single scratch is removed from the gem, then that scratch will stand out like the Grand Canyon the instant you put the final polish on it.

The 220 belt is used first, so as to remove all the scratches put in by the grinding wheel. While the stone is wet you cannot really see the scratches. After sanding for a while, dry the stone and carefully examine it, preferably with a magnifying glass. You will easily see any scratches, and will be able to tell the difference between those caused by the grinding wheel and those caused by the belt. Continue to sand on the 220 until all the scratches on the surface of the stone are those made by the belt, and all the scratches on the stone made by the grinding wheel have been removed.

The book also goes on to explain how to continue on considering the reader is working on a domed stone. 99% of my work is on flat cabs, so the process is different. With that in mind, I am going to concentrate here on the methods and processes for starting and moving through the various grades of abrasives, and not the shape of the gem.

After sanding to completion on the 220, repeat the very same operation on the 400 mesh belt in silicon carbide, or the 15 micron in diamond. When you examine the stone under the glass after sanding on the 220, you will see it looks even and smooth.

The moment you apply the stone to the next lower grit belt, the surface which looked even and smooth to you before will now be simply covered with what look like gouge marks. The scratches put on the 220 belt now appear enormous and deep by comparison with the scratches put in on the finer belt. You now will be required to remove every scratch put in by the course belt, until the surface once more is covered with nothing buy the scratches of the finer belt. In the case of the diamond belts, the surface will now be extremely smooth and have what is called a "pre-polish" finish. It is ready to go to the polisher. In the case of silicon carbide belts, the surface will now be covered with much finer scratches than those obtained with the 220 mesh. When the surface is once again smooth and even, the stone is sanded on the 600 mesh belt, exactly as before. Exactly as before also, the stone will look gouged and dug up when you have applied it to the 600 belt for a time, and these old scratches must be taken off the surface to the last one. When the sanding is finished, the surface of the stone, when dry, should have a slightly gray look, evenly dull in appearance, with perhaps just the suggestion of a shine to it. It will have a very slight shine if done on the 15 micron diamond blt. All of your long and tedious labor has now been completed, and you have only a few steps more to go before you can hold a glowing gemstone in your hands and feel the wonderful thrill of having produced it yourself.

The next step is polishing the surface. Perhaps this will be something to add down the road, but for now the author has provided the information regarding our sanding

I am far from being an expert with the art of bezel settings. I have just recently began participating within a forum that has a member who volunteers some tutorials and discussion for beginners like myself.
I thought it might be fun to share here what I learn and show off some successes I hope to have with learning about setting gemstones within bezels and also actually making my own bezels from scratch. We will also be posting progress within our Gemstone / Lapidary Network Developer forum
Since I am not an expert, I am not going to just be posting the tutorials that are being volunteered within the metalsmithing forum that I mentioned.
I would like to begin here by demonstrating the proper shape required for the outer edge of a gemstone that we will be using in our bezel.
The first image shows a gemstone with a straight edge running up towards the surface of a flat faced cab.
The second shows the proper "inward" slope of an edge that runs up to the surface of either a domed or flat faced cabochon.
The inward slope allows for proper rolling over of the bezel tape that will result in a proper and snug fit.



The first thing I found myself a bit overwhelmed with is deciding upon the type of fuel, torch, and accessories required for silver soldering/welding.

With so many torches on the market, a first-time buyer can be quickly overwhelmed by the sheer number of decisions that have to be made. Choosing a fuel, fitting the right tips, and determining the type of flame you need are just the beginning. To make decision-making tougher, all torches look pretty much alike. They have two open-ended tubes for the attachment of two color-coded rubber hoses, conducting air to one and fuel to the other. They are either single-fuel or a combination of oxygen and fuel, which tend to be hotter. Some torches accommodate different fuels simply by changing the tip. Each gas produces a different flame. Which brings us to the burning question: which torch will produce the flame power needed to get the job done?

I did find a link, "Gas for Dummies", that really has been a big help. I am still a little undecided on what I feel will be best for me. I will share my final decision soon.

Be sure to keep checking back here for updates, and of course we would love to have you follow along "within our forum".

Cutting Gemstone Slabs Using Plaster of Paris Block Molds



I read about this and wanted to give it a try. It worked especially well for me because most all of my gemstone cabochons are flat. This is really making it nice to get a consistent and even cut slabs so that I do not have to grind them down to make them nice and even. This is especially important when I am trying to make very thin and even thickness for matching slab desirable for high quality gemstone earring cabochon pairs.

Any way, I made some reusable molds and as you can see from the one pic above, it works great!

Simply hold the flat surface against the push plate that normally.... Read More