Life Is Better With A Gordon Setter

Finding historical roots in the old Land Spaniel, these setters were known to be black, white and tan, black and white, and black and tan on or about the time that Alexander, the fourth Duke of Gordon (1743-1827), established his kennel at Gordon Castle in the UK. Preferring the black and tan coloration, the Duke bred accordingly.

It should be quickly noted that there were Black and Tan Setters in existence prior to the beginning of the Gordon Castle strain. And, there were Black and Tan Setters being bred by other kennels in the 1830's and onward that were not of the Gordon Castle strain. However, Alexander is given credit for developing the working capabilities of the breed and creating its great notoriety.

It wasn't until January 1924 that the Kennel Club accepted the name of GORDON SETTER as a registered breed. The American Kennel Club officially recognized the breed in 1892, some 50 years after George Blunt and Daniel Webster imported Rake and Rachel from the Duke of Richmond (who inherited the Gordon Castle kennels in 1836).

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According to the Gordon Setter Club of America: "The Gordon Setter is a good-sized, sturdily built, black and tan dog, well muscled, with plenty of bone and substance, but active, upstanding and stylish, appearing capable of doing a full day's work in the field. He has a strong, rather short back, with well sprung ribs and a short tail. The head is fairly heavy and finely chiseled. His bearing is intelligent, noble, and dignified, showing no signs of shyness or viciousness. Clear colors and straight or slightly waved coat are correct. He suggests strength and stamina rather than extreme speed. Symmetry and quality are most essential. A dog well balanced in all points is preferable to one with outstanding good qualities and defects. A smooth, free movement, with high head carriage is typical."

Visit the GSCA site for the full standard.

Life expectancy for Gordon Setters is generally 10 to 12 years and overall the breed is considered to be healthy and hardy.

While not as prevalent as in other large breeds, hip dysplasia can occur in Gordon Setters. Responsible Gordon breeders will have the hips of their breeding pairs evaluated by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) and possibly by the University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program (PennHIP). While there are no guarantees that a given puppy will not have hip issues, the prospective Gordon purchasers should request these ratings and compare them against breed standards. Run from any breeder cannot provide you with these data.

Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) is a well-recognized inherited condition that is characterised by bilateral degeneration of the retina which causes progressive vision loss that culminates in total blindness. A recessive mutation that is associated with the development of PRA in the Gordon Setter has been identified and a mutation-based DNA test has been developed. This test enables responsible breeders to slowly decrease the frequency of the most common form of PRA among Gordon Setters from their lines. However, because we know that at least one other form of PRA exists within the breed, we cannot guarantee that any dog will not develop PRA, even if they are clear of this mutation. But, prospective Gordon Setter owners should request certification that at least one of the breeding pair is clear of the mutation. Visit The British Gordon Setter Club for more information on PRA.

Other disease of the eye can afflict all breeds. Reputable Gordon Setter breeders will have their breeding stock evaluated by the Canine Eye Registry Foundation (CERF). CERF is a registry that keeps a searchable database of all dogs that were certified free of heritable eye disease by members of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists (ACVO). The database can be accessed on their web site (http://www.vmdb.org/cerf.html). CERF certification is only good for one year, and a dog must be reexamined and recertified in order to keep its registration with CERF. Keep in mind that CERF does not conduct examinations but is merely a registry of certified dogs. Breeders should be able to provide proof of a current certification from CERF. Note also that PRA is a disease that is not detected during CERF evaluations!

Bloat (Gastric Torsion) is a serious, life-threatening problem which has been seen in most breeds but more often in the larger, deep-chested breeds such as the Gordon Setter. Research into this problem has been ongoing for years and it is still not known what the underlying cause is. Study pedigrees and ASK your breeders if there have been evidence of bloat in their line. Responsible breeders will be honest with you in this regard. There is a 63% chance of bloat if a 1st generation relative suffered from it. However, general wisdom in minimizing the incidence of bloat relates to proper feeding, watering and exercising of your Gordon.

Hypothyroidism is seen occasionally in most breeds and is not specific to Gordon Setters. Signs can include infertility, obesity, mental dullness, drooping of the eyelids, low energy levels, brittle and coarse hair, darkening skin, and irregular heat cycles. Hypothyroidism can be treated with daily medication, which must continue throughout the dog's life. A dog receiving daily thyroid treatment can live a full and happy life.

Gordon Setters maintain puppy traits well into adulthood and are always ready for a romp in the field. While very energetic, they have a very even temperament and tend to get along with just about everyone. Gordons are a very loyal and loving breed that feels at home inside and outside. They are not a kennel dog, but thrive when integrated well into the family. Early and constant socialization is required to maintain their vibrant spirit. The may appear to be aloof and independent at times, but frequent and close human interaction is essential to their sense of well being.

Gordons are bred to hunt and run. 60 to 90 minutes of vigorous exercise are needed on a daily basis to keep them in top form. A morning and afternoon walk on a leash are not sufficient for their needs, especially in their younger years. However, due to their hunting instinct they should not be allowed to roam freely while unsupervised or in areas of traffic or other hazards. Without sufficient exercise they can become hyperactive and rambunctious. They are a black dog with a heavy coat so careful attention must be paid to their hydration and over-heating when exercising in the heat of the day. Remember, dogs do not sweat and primarily release body heat through their feet. Gordons generally welcome a thorough soaking prior to, during and after strenuous exercise on a hot sunny day.

Obedience training is essential. Gordons are a large breed that can be a challenge to handle if not properly trained. Hands-on, owner training is an excellent way to create a bond and to fulfill your Gordon's need for human interaction. Training does not stop with puppy kindergarten. They are generally considered to be easy to train, but because of their independent spirit require a firm, consistent, regular and positive, no-nonsense approach.

They are wonderful and patient with children. However, their playfulness and general size can put young children at risk of being knocked or run over accidentally. So, be prepared to closely supervise these interactions with younger children.

When properly socialized, Gordons become excellent companions to other canine and non-canine household pets. Such socialization should be done early. Most responsible breeders will start this process prior to you picking up your puppy. However, due diligence in this area is your responsibility as a pet owner. Puppy Kindergartens are popular mechanisms to address such socialization. However, puppies can both carry and catch a great number of diseases in these settings. Be sure your puppy is properly immunized and that you are attending a facility that requires all participants to be current with their shots.

As with most in-tact animals, the male Gordon Setter can be more aggressive in the presence of other in-tact males. This tendency, of course, will increase in the presence of a female that is in season. Spaying and neutering is recommended if you are not showing or breeding your Gordon(s).

Despite their long and luxurious coat, Gordon Setters are reasonably easy to groom. Although, you must be diligent as things can get out of hand quickly. They should be brushed and combed two to three times per week to keep their coats from becoming tangled and matted. Their coat is naturally water-resistant and has a natural oil that protects it and makes it resistant to dirt. As a result, they do not need frequent bathing. Human shampoos should never be used and their coats should be treated with a good quality conditioner after every bath.

As I have already stated, Gordon Setters are NOT kennel dogs. My crew will only be kenneled when they are hunt training or when I have to go out of town and have no one to house sit. This is more than just a personal preference. It is well understood in the Gordon Setter community that this breed does best when fully integrated into the family. Deep socialization is very important to Gordons.

Crate training a puppy is well documented as a housebreaking tool. But, the use of the crate does not end with housebreaking. It's where my crew sleeps, hangs out when I have to run a quick errand, or when they just want their own personal space to rest and nap.

It's not unusual for some Gordon owners to allow their dog(s) to sleep outside a crate and even to share their bed. That, however, is not how we roll. There is much to be said about maintaining your alpha dog position. Dogs, in general, are pack animals. And, whenever you physically put yourself on their level, such as sitting on the ground/floor or allowing them to sleep in your bed, you alter that dynamic.

I use collapsible wire crates for this purpose. Because I also show my dogs in the conformation ring, I often have to take their crates with me to ring-side or to the grooming area of the show site. The minimum size for an adult Gordon is somewhere around 42L x 28W x 31H. This generally referred to as a 400 or as a Large by most vendors. However, if you have the space it would great to go one size larger. Be careful in selecting a crate if you are going to be collapsing it a lot and transporting it. Cheaper is not better! And, I have found that the crates with removable doors are especially convenient. The doors can be removed when the dog does not need to be restrained, thus allowing them to freely come and go. Such comfort with their crate-den is a desired attitude.

The hard sided airline-approved crates are certainly acceptable. I just don't find them to be as convenient as the 3-door wire crates. Their single doors cannot be removed, you only have one orientation, and they do not allow for the same air flow. Also, because they have tapered sides, they do not provide the same interior room given their footprint. Further, the wire crates have a removable bottom tray that make regular cleaning a snap.

I also use crates in my vehicles when transporting my crew. I do this for a number of reasons. First and foremost, SAFETY! The last thing I need is a 70 to 80 lb dog deciding its time to climb into my lap or lick my face when I'm driving. Also, in the event of an accident the dogs are less apt to be injured if they are in a crate than if they are unrestrained in the vehicle.

I use SUV style collapsible wire creates in my vehicles. The smallest that I have used for an adult Gordon is 36"L x 21"W x 26"H. This size is not ideal, but workable if space is limited. The preferred minimum is 42"L x 21"W x 30"H.

I have also used the soft-sided collapsible crates with zippered doors in my car. I do not recommend using these in unattended situations. I have had my dogs break the zippers and escape. They are light and convenient and should be considered for use in the proper situations.

I have two sets of wire crates. The larger ones for sleeping and hotel rooms, etc. and the SUV style for use in the car. While these crates collapse and can be moved around, they are just too heavy and awkward to be constantly moving them between house and car.

WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! There are misguided souls in the world that do not approve of crating dogs. They have been known to release dogs from crates. This, of course, is a totally stupid act that puts the animal in extreme danger. Furthermore, theft of purebred dogs to be sold to puppy mills for breeding or to be sold back to the owner for ransom is on the rise. If you have your animal(s) crated in a public area (and this includes your vehicle) be vigilant! Do not wander off thinking all is well! Those of us that are frequently crating our dogs at dog shows, etc. put locks on our crates for this very reason.

"Won't you buy me? Not because I will be euthanized, abandoned, abused or given up because I wasn't important enough. Buy me because the wonderful person taking this photo brought me into this world after much thought and careful planning, sat up with me, night after night, to make sure I was warm, fed, and strong.

She played with me, introduced me to countless experiences, people and places. She sang to me, held me, kissed my face and my baby paws. She cried when my baby sister didn't make it in the first days of our lives.

She sat, scowl on her face, interviewing potential buyers, some of which didn't measure up. She will be there for me, for the rest of my life. She has guaranteed my health, and knows the dogs behind me, very well. She knows what those dogs have the potential to produce, both good and bad, and she willingly shares that with anyone who asks. She will cry when I go home with that carefully screened family, and she will think of me often.

Isn't that worth a minimal investment, something to cover her time and the money she spent to bring me into the world, and care for me like none other? A little something to enable her to continue her exceptional care of my parents, and the other adults she keeps as her own? A little token to keep her going, so she can continue to support the breed she loves, with all the care and planning with which she used to bring me into the world? There is no profit for her, though she works for the love of her breed. She is worth your investment...believe me, I know this for sure. Look at how clean I am, how I smile. Look at my bright and healthy eyes, my clean and tidy surroundings. Look at how happy I am, how much I love people, and love to play with my toys...all because of her.

When I leave her, I will hope and pray that my new family has the potential to care for me with the same kind of love and devotion with which she has cared for me over the last 8 weeks. I'm scared, but I trust her. She is a responsible, careful and loving breeder. There are many others like her. She carries a heavy burden, but she carries it because she loves me, and she's devoted to others like me."

The next time you feel like it's a crime to purchase a purebred puppy, think of everything that lead to that life. The care, the planning, the worry, the heart-ache. There are puppies that join this world, and they are worth every penny of the small pittance their breeders ask. It's *NOT* a crime to purchase a puppy...and it's not a crime to sell one. If responsible breeders charged what they felt their puppies were really worth, no one could afford them. Letting them leave is the hardest thing they do. When you meet your prospective breeder, don't bother to ask them to justify what they charge for their puppies. It's one of the fastest way to find the door.

Yes, I support animal adoption! However, purchasing a Gordon from a responsible breeder has an important place in the development of the breed. Responsible breeders are why the breed that I love is as strong and as vibrant as it is today.

First and foremost NO reputable breeder will ever sell their puppies to a pet store or puppy outlet, and NO pet store or puppy outlet will ever admit to getting their puppies from a puppy mill. In any case, you should ALWAYS deal directly with the breeder. And, you should ONLY do business AFTER you or your trusted representative has inspected the breeder's facilities.

Probably one of the first signs that you are dealing with a responsible breeder is that they want to know as much about you, your household, your schedule and your ability to properly care for a puppy as you want to know about the breeder's puppies. If you are not thoroughly scrutinized by the breeder you should run and not walk away! It is a sign that they are breeding puppies for reasons other than for the betterment of the breed.

Responsible breeders:
- Belong to a national (and/or local) breed club;
- Abide by their breed club's Code of Ethics;
- Test their breeding stock for any congenital diseases and health conditions;
- Only breed dogs that have excellent temperaments;
- Immunize their puppies, Sires and Dams against: Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parvo, Parainfluenza, Corona & Rabies;
- Educate potential owners, and will freely disclose any pertinent information about their breed;
- Issue Spay/neuter contracts with the sale of all "pet quality" dogs;
- Show and/or display trials and/or titles their dogs have earned;
- Support and/or participate in breed rescue work whenever possible;
- Never breed out of greed (and never over-breed);
- Will take back a puppy or dog that doesn't work out. This should be in the sales contract;
- Take responsible care of all of his or her dogs.

If you meet a breeder you like, make an appointment to see the dogs in their home setting. When you visit the breeder, take note of kennel size, exercise areas, cleanliness, state of repair, ventilation, lighting, and overall appearance. Are bedding and elimination areas clean? Is there an isolation area for sick dogs, show dogs, and newborns? Does the breeder feed a high-quality food, or are the animals raised on a generic diet? Is fresh water readily available? Does the breeder keep good records (including proof of vaccinations), store medications properly, and take steps to prevent worm infestation? An honest, responsible breeder will appreciate your concern and won't be offended by anything you ask around the topics above or any of the following questions:
- How long have you been breeding dogs?
- How often do you breed your dogs?
- Why did you choose to breed these two dogs?
- Can you provide references from other buyers?
- What are the positives and negatives of owning this breed?

In addition, rate the condition of the dogs and the socialization of the puppies. In the end, your own good judgment is what counts most.

"It is in their business to range and hunt independently for game, at a distance from the sportsman, using their own and intelligence to find it, and having done so, to remain staunchly "on point" awaiting his approach. They must search for the body, and not for the foot sent, and able to maintain a fast steady gallop for long periods without fatigue for this purpose a dog should have independence of character, speed, endurance, and a sensitive nose, combined with natural ability for hunting the terraine, in the best method of finding game". (Croxton Smith 1932, page 70)

Hunting with your Gordon Setter begins with proper training. Unless you're an experienced Gordon trainer get a copy of "The Field Gordon Setter; the Black and Tan Bombshell" (see the link below). This book will teach you how to think about birds, training areas, wind and scenting conditions. Most training and working situations are covered in the field training section of the book. The book will tell you how to present your puppy with opportunities to learn. A puppy cannot train himself. You must spend the time to train him when he is ready to learn from you as a baby puppy. Delay, and you will be playing "catch up". A lack of birds early in the puppy's life can make a slow-learning puppy. So will a handler who is slow on his training, or low on his expectation levels of the puppy's performance.

If you are used to training Pointers, English Setters, Shorthairs, or Brittanys, and have never trained a Gordon Setter before, DO NOT WAIT! The Gordon Setter is extremely intelligent and learns quickly. DO NOT WAIT for him to grow bored, and turn the learning experience off. Again, buy this book - it takes you step by step through developing a Gordon puppy.

I train my Gordons with Ben Garcia of Hideaway Kennels outside Colorado Springs, CO. Ben has been instrumental in putting Junior Hunter titles on three of my Gordons (the three pictured in my lens intro picture) and we'll be introducing my newest girl to birds soon. We're also working toward Senior and Master Hunter titles on my two older boys. While you may not live close enough to work directly with Ben, he has an excellent training video available. The video promo clip below should give you the flavor of the video and Ben's style. Pick one up for yourself or as a gift!

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Some Gordon Setter lines can carry a recessive red gene. When a Dam and a Sire that both carry the gene are bred they can produce a totally red Gordon. These dogs are not recognized by any of the major kennel clubs and responsible breeders do not breed them. They are not to be confused with the red Irish Setter.