Istanbul: live or leave

Ranked #12,559 in Culture & Society, #250,344 overall

If you are on your way to Istanbul, either to stay permanently or temporarily, this is a page to read.

I was born in Istanbul and since have been living here. The times I hate this city is getting more than the times I like it. That's why I have been thinking to relocate recently. However, I still am not sure. So I came up with this idea: To list down what is good and what is bad about this city. Should I stay or shoud I go?

Will I be happier if I stay? Or will I regret if I go? If you have the same questions and doubts about this city, my own experience and what I have found on-line can help.

Popular sites about the city

Istanbul Info
Everything you need to know about Istanbul, inc. nightlife, events, places to see etc.

I should state this in the beginning: Istanbul is a city that can not be told in a book or on a website. Istanbul is much more than what has been said and written. Maybe she has more negative sides than positive, that's why it is an absolute adventure to live in. Some poets call her "the virgin bitch". It is a bitch on which many civilizations had passed, yet a virgin still posessing undiscovered beauties.
Bigglook Istanbul
Here you can search for contact details of places, restaurants, hotels and many more.

Istabul books on Amazon

My picks of novels and travel guides

Loading

Starting with something negative

Bad: Bureaucracy

Even though the government says that they have decreased the bureaucracy, you still have to do lots of things and see lots of people to get things done.

For example I still don't have my university diploma - I gratuated some 10 years ago-. As the diplomas are usually not ready at the graduation ceremony, the university gives them later. Later means if you apply for it. So, I gratuated and I should APPLY for my diploma later.

It is not over. If I apply for it now, I can get it 6 months later. Yes, six months, that is half a year. I don't know what takes so long for them. The paper is a standart print-out. The secretary just needs to fill my name and department in and sent it to signature. Why does it take so long?

I guess you see my point here.
A day at the immigration office
This is a page about the experience of an expat about Turkish bureaucracy:

Istanbul in Ramadan

Ramadan: The fasting month of the Muslims

Istanbul in Ramadan is worth to see. Especially the historical part, called Sultanahmet, is full of vendors selling food, sweets, tea and Turkish coffee.

Despite the chaotic streets, it is a chance for taking some interesting photos.
Loading

Now a good side of Istanbul:

Good: Turkish bath

Turkish bath is a memory of my childhood. I am not talking about the touristic ones but rather small ones. In the past there was one in every neigborhood. Usually the men and women had different sections. When the women of the neighborhood got together and went to "Hamam", they brought food and drinks and spent the whole day there, eating, singing and dancing.

When I was a child, we used to visit Hamam once everyweek, that would be Sundays. I haven't been to one of them for 15 years maybe, but I can still feel the smell, the hot steam and how I got breathless if I stayed a little longer.

Turkish Bath is good.
A Turkish Bath
A few words from a foreigner

Hamam - Turkish Bath

This photo shows the Turkish Bath we used to go. I was taking photos around it and I thought why not go in and talk to its owner for a few minutes.

I could not go into the steam room, because I wasn't prepared and I did not want to harm my camera. I very much want to go there again and take a good bath along with a massage.

If you are planning to drive in Istanbul...

Bad: Traffic

Traffic jam and some words about government.
I found this blog while searching for a related blog. The whole entry is not avout traffic jam but it gives an idea on daily life, working and some political issues.

Driving can give you a nervous breakdown

If you are in a car...

... this is how the traffic looks in the day time around noon.

A 24-hour living city

Good: The best night life you can ever find in a city

Istanbul offers you the best clubs, bars and diners. This city lives 24 hours. There is definitely something for every kind of people with every kind of taste. It is a 24-hour living city. Even at 4 in the morning there are people walking in the city center. In the summer you can see a traffic jam on the bosphorous bridge.

Night life and music

A bar in Istanbul

Luxus - Istanbul night

Luxus - Istanbul night

If you like going out, either to wine & dine or dancing, Istanbul nights offers you the best alternatives.

A blog with detailed info about where to go and what to do in Istanbul
Take a look at this blog if you are searching for some tips.

Beer and pizza at Otto Santral.
santral

Istanbul nights

Milonga at SUADA

SUADA is an artificial island on the bosphorus with a number of restaurants and bars.
Loading

Istanbul is so crowded..

Bad: Population

Yes, this city is over-populated. You live in big crowds here and this can make you mad sometimes.

The sidewalks are usually not the perfect places if you are in a hurry. You can not walk fast, you have to keep the pace of the person in front of you.

It is also dangerous for drivers, because somebody can suddenly walk right in your way. It is a new adventure everyday...

This pic shows how many people can walk on the street of Beyoglu at the same time:
darbeye karsi miting

And one from Ortakoy, which can be really crowded in the weekends:
bridge

But,

I need to put a big but here. If you are living in a small city where everything is in order, streets are empty, traffic is good and you know everybody, and you are fed up of this, Istanbul can be your medicine.

Here, you can be lost in the crowds, disappear and not found if you don't want to be. I haven't lived in a small city so I do not know what it is like. I have friends who have and as far as I heard from them, small cities get very boring after some time. It is for sure that you can never feel this in Istanbul.

Books about Turkey

Here is a selection of books and guides about Turkey
Loading

The Prince Islands

Good: Perfect place for a break

In my opinion, the Prince Islands is the best place to run away from the city life. These small islands are located on the south-east of Istanbul, reached by 1,5 hours of boat trip from the city center.

buyukada istanbul

buyukada istanbul

The islands has been used as holiday resorts and still there are many families who spend the whole summer here. Recently, the working people have started renting apartments or houses for the whole year. Although the transportation can be hard in winter, it feels like living in an oasis, so close to the city and yet so far away from the exhausting atmosphere.

There are also various hotels and pensions on the islands. especially the biggest one, called Buyukada meaning "Big Island" is the most popular one due to the variety of accommodation options. On the smaller islands, there are mostly houses and villas and less hotels. Still you can find some rooms for rent if you decide to stay overnight.

The best side of the islands is that there is no traffic. No cars are allowed on the streets. You can ride a bike or use the carriages to go around. One can only hear the screams of seagulls and steps of the horses.

buyukada istanbul

Last weekend I was there with my husband and my daughter. We wanted to see the possibilities to live on the island and went there to look for an apartment. Although there are very good places with very reasonable prices, the transportation in the mornings is a big problem. After giving a good thought, we decided that we will go there on the weekends for the moment. Maybe later, if we continue living in Istanbul and have our own business running well, we can move there permanently.

This is the view of the flat we liked the most:
buyukada istanbul

By the way, one of my friends has very recently rented a flat in Buyukada and he plans to move in at the end of this month. In order to share his experiences of moving to and living on an island, he started this blog:

The Island Chronicles

kadikoy istanbul

Fields of concrete

Bad: Raising your child in high buildings

Istanbul is a very big city with a few green areas. I used to go out for playing with my friends when I was a child. But today, the children are growing in huge buildings with rarely putting their feet on green.

Almost 80% of the city does not have parks or any green area that is suitable for the children. And mostly the children of the working parents are going to kindergartens, which are stuck among high buildings having very little gardens. The children are like workers. They go to these schools, play inside and come home to play in the house again.

We can only go out to the seaside on the weekends and we usually spend limited time there. Most of the middle and lower class families do not go out at all.

The city is surrounded by the sea but we can not swim because of the dirty water. We just look at the sea, sit at the shore for some time, maybe take a short walk and go back home.

father and daughter

Personally, I do not want to raise my child in this city. She has to run around freely without being disturbed by traffic or high concrete buildings.

Istanbul in Winter /4

Give me some reasons to live in or leave

Your feedback is very valuable to me. If you have anything you like or dislike about Istanbul and want me to add it here, please drop me a line.

submit
  • Reply
    TURCOLIVE Sep 7, 2010 @ 3:10 pm | delete
    Three years ago also we weight the goods and bads for Istanbul and decided to leave after 15 years. We are living in ?zmir now.

    A vacation return from Assos helped us to take ultimate decision about leave or live. We had been reached in 6 hours from Assos to edges of the Istanbul (~360 km) and it took about 4 hours to reach home from Had?mköy to Ba?cilar (~30 km).
  • Reply
    Seda Jul 19, 2010 @ 9:10 am | delete
    My friend, Istanbul also my birth city and I have been away for 23 years. I wish I have never left. There is no place like home. I miss the smell of the Marmara Sea, vendors selling simits, chestnuts,corns etc., seagulls flying around Bosphorus, music, smile of my fellows , hearing my mother tongue language, art galleries, concerts, movies, visiting relatives, watching my nieces or nephews grow, being by family when we needed each other, feeling of warmness and love for each other, home made foods, having breakfasts with family early mornings , drinking our teas with laughter and jokes, walking in ancient streets, celebrating festivals and many more ...

    Yes there are many bad sides of the city as you mentioned but things will get better,those are not really worth to loose what you really have in your hands .You will understand those values when you are gone from the city.Treasure life of Istanbul my friend ..
  • Reply
    OzlemErcan Jul 22, 2010 @ 5:50 am | delete
    Thank you very much for your comments. We moved to Antalya, another big city on the south coast of Turkey famous for its beaches in Nov'09. Now, every month I go to Istanbul to visit my clients and friends. It is more fun for me now :) Small visits are better.
  • Reply
    EditionH Apr 17, 2009 @ 7:06 am | delete
    I do not know a lot about Istanbul, but from my limited experience I know it is a place like no other in the WORLD!
    You might be terribly bored when living somewhere else. Istanbul is the city with the biggest potential for development and desaster in Europe! Also you definitely will miss the food and the tea, also there is no other Bosporus in the world.
    I find your lens a bit typical for people in Istanbul, they say it is impossible to live in Istanbul, but they cannot live somewhere else :).

by

OzlemErcan

Marketing communications specialist, photographer, mother, wife, child, friend, idealist, Africa lover
Dreamer...

Feeling creative? Create a Lens!