Loft Conversion – DIY

Some of the main Building Regulation Requirements, and recommendations, for loft conversions include the following:-

1. Ceiling Height - This has now apparently been removed from building regulations. However, from a practical point of view at least 50% of the floor area should normally have a floor to ceiling height of at least 2.1m (7ft).

2. Floor Joists - The joists in a standard loft are invariably too shallow and only suitable for light storage, typically 4" to 6" (100mm to 150mm). To meet building they need to be much deeper e.g. 8" or 9" (200mm or 225mm) to carry the additional load bearing weight the converted loft is likely to carry; the exact depth required is very specific and is dependent on the span of the joists.

3. Natural Light - Any living space should have natural light, in a loft this can easily and cheaply be achieved by installing one or more skylights or dormer windows if you need to increase the floor to ceiling height although this will be a much more expensive option.

4. Stairs - A full loft conversion creating additional living space e.g. bedroom to meet building regulations requires building a staircase.

Therefore before planning any loft conversion you should check the building regulations for these and other relevant requirements e.g. any requirements for fire escape; and check with your local authority.

An attic is storage space directly beneath the roof and generally above the bedrooms which can be used for storage as opposed to a loft which is a finished area fully boarded with natural light and a staircase, and which can be lived in (living space) or in order buildings may have had other practical uses e.g. hay lofts.

Attics are often un- boarded space just below the roof with joists that can't safely take the weight heavy traffic (people) and furniture, without natural light with a loft door in the ceiling below for access via a loft ladder if one is fitted.

As part of the preparation for loft conversion the roof should be check to ensure any of the tiles don't need replacing, that the roof rafters and in good condition, not rotting or need replacing, that the felt is sound and that there are no damp or leaks. Any maintenance and repairs should be done on the roof before or during the loft conversion.

The two main makes of skylights in the UK are Velux and Fakro, most people (including builders) think of Velux when they think of skylights. Visually, size, quality and generally pricewise there is no significant difference between Velux and Fakro; they are almost identical. However, I was recommended Fakro by a builder friend when I was looking for a skylight and was well pleased with it so when we had additional skylights fitted in a side roof for two bedrooms we stuck with Fakro.

Skylights are not expensive and for a competent DIY enthusiast quite easy to install if you follow the manufacturer's instructions except that you will need scaffolding to safely install skylights which along with the labour costs are most expensive part of the build.

When ordering your skylight ensure you also order blinds to fit, especially if the skylights will be facing in a southerly or westerly direction. Blinds come in a variety of colours and types from blackout blinds that cut 100% of light and heat from the sun to more conventional blinds that blocks the sun's glare but not the natural light. You can buy the manufacture's own make of blinds or if you shop around e.g. Amazon third party blinds that are just as good but a lot cheaper; but if you do buy third party blinds make sure you get the measurements right and that you get the correct blinds to fit the make of skylight you're using. Some of the third party blinds will fit both Velux and Fakro, done by (for Fakro) including a short extension piece of about 4" (100) that clips to the bottom of the main runners on either side of the window.

Now all the structural works are complete and building regulations are met you can save a substantial sum of money on the build by completing most of the non-structural work yourself, provided you are a competent DIY enthusiast; if in doubt seek professional help and or advice.

In the UK the electrics e.g. sockets and lighting has to be done by a professionally qualified electrician but other than that you can do the insulation between the felt and plasterboard yourself; put up the plasterboard and lay the floorboards, and finally the painting and decorating.

You may also wish to consider insulating beneath the floorboards dependant on whether you've done a full loft conversion including stairs for a bedroom, study or home office space or just a partial conversion e.g. just a playroom for a model railway, Scalextric layout etc. which isn't going to be in use all year round.

Originally our loft was just an attic for storage and where we laid temporary flooring for a model railway and a Scalextric layout; but overtime our needs changed and some of the felt needed replacing so, after searching for a suitable quote, we paid about £4,000 for the structural works including the re-felting while the scaffolding was up but didn't bother with the staircase as we only need the loft for storage around the sides and an occasional studio use for photographic work. So once the structural work was completed I finished off the interior of the loft to our current requirements; storage space being behind cupboard doors set around the sides of the loft with the main open space boarded and decorated as shown in the photos on this page.