Madeira - a fortified wine

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About Madeira

Madeira is a fortified wine named after the Portugese Island where it is made. It has a unique production process which involves heating the wine to give it a distinct flavour.

Less well known than Port or Sherry, the other fortified wines, madeira can be kept in poor conditions for long periods without significantly degrading, even once opened. The Lens image shows a Henriques and Henriques Malmsey.

Other Relevant Lenses:
Sercial - Dry Madeira, Verdelho, Bual, Malmsey - Sweet Madeira, The Master Mariner by Nicholas Monsarrat, Longitude - Sea Navigation

About Madeira

The lesser known fortified wine.

Landscape Near Sao Roque Do Faial, Island of Madeira, Portugal, Atlantic
Landscape Near Sao Roque Do Faial, Island of Madeira, Portugal, Atlantic
Hans Peter... - Buy This Allposters.com

Madeira is named after the Portugese Island where it is made. A fortified wine like Port or Sherry, madeira has a unique production process which involves heating it to change the flavour. Good quality vintages are heated in lofts, while cheaper ones are subjected to steam pipes.

As with all fortified wines, it is supplemented with Brandy which increases its strength and adds to the distinct flavour. Available in flavours ranging from dry to sweet, the best known Madeira is Malmsey, the sweetest.

One of the rare wines that improves with rough handling, Madeira became popular with the British for naval voyages. Even today it can be stored in conditions where other wines degrade and still be drinkable. It has the longest life once opened of any wine, up to several months.From personal experience, not being a great drinker, the author has a bottle that is opened once a year at Christmas. It has been drinkable for the last few years - the rest of the year it's in a drawer.

Due to the high sugar and alcohol content (14-23%), Madeira also has a high calorie count so probably isn't a drink for dieters! Traditionally, Madeira was also drunk by either gender like sherry, while Port was reserved for men.
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Important!

In History

Madeira was the wine used to toast the Declaration of Independence. History does not record the vintage...

Grape types for Madeira

The four varieties

There are four main types of grape that can be used to produce Madeira, which are considered "Noble" grapes. Arranged from Dry to Sweet these are:

Each gives its name to the type of Madeira produced from that grape, and the extremely sweet Malmsey is probably the best known.

In a talk for Decanter Magazine, Andrew Jefford explains the differences.
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Types of Madeira

The four types

Verdelho de Madere White Grape Variety from Ampelographie Traite General de Viticulture, 1903
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Madeira have been suggested for use as a desert wine, although some may be prefered as apperatifs, or with fruit and cheese. They are also often used in cooking to give a firmer flavour to the food.

There are four main types of Madeira, traditionally named after the grapes they are made from.

Sercial


The Sercial grape has a number of strains, which share the characteristics of late ripening and high acidity. They grow at the highest altitudes and are harvested late, in September. Its highly acid taste apparently earned the grapes the nickname ""The dog choker"

Sercial is the dryest variety of Madeira and takes the longest to mature. Older sercials are richer and much prefered to recent vintages.

Verdelho


Verdelho Grapes are small, hard skinned and golden. As well as beuing used for Madeira, some acres have been planted in Australia which produce a dry table wine. It is vulnerable to frost and if harvested late may produce too much alcohol.

Verdelho is a medium dry madeira. Many tasters describe it as "smoky", a tendency which apparently increases with age.

Bual


Bual has a number of sub-variaties of grape that use the name. The grapes have a high acidity which whe turned into Madeira, produces a rich sweet drink.

Sometimes spelled Boal, Bual is a sweet or medium sweet madeira. Buals from the 1800's have been drunk, still in good condition.

Malmsey


Malmsey was the first of the noble varieties, planted in the 16th century. It is grown in lower-lying vinyards, harvested between August and October.

Also called Malvoisia, Malmsey is the sweetest of the madeiras and also the most popular.

More about Madeira
A useful introductory page about madeira can be found online at the Symington Family Estates



Tinta Negra Mole


Not strictly a madeira grape, this needs to be mentioned in context, as it is used in madeira production. Considered a good grape, not a great one, it is a pale coloured red grape. This variety was used by a number of producers to allow them to produce more madeira than they otherwise could.

For example, a Verdelho madeira may not be made entirely of that grape. Lesser grapes, like Tinta Negra Mole may be used to supplement the Verdelho in it. EU-regulations mean that any wine labelled by a grape's name has to contain at least 85% of that grape, the remaining 15% may be the lesser variety. Those labelled -style however, which may contain a majority of the lesser grape. This change in the law resulted in a few complications in naming, as some producers had created blends of different types of grape to give unique flavours.

Different names within the types

Naming oddities

Wine Bottle, Grapes and Walnuts
Wine Bottle, Grapes and Walnuts
Loran Speck - Buy This at Allposters.com

As an example of a Madeira hit by the change in EU law, Blandy's "Duke of Clarence" is another madeira that uses a blend with Tinta Negra Mole. Originally sold as a malmsey, the drink was so popular that rather than change the drink, the producers changed the name and kept the grape blend.

This decision has lead to a range of Blandy madeiras called "Duke of...", ranging from the Duke of Sussex Dry Madeira, Duke of Cumberland Medium Rich and Duke of Clarence Full Rich.

These can be mapped roughly against the existing types, with Duke of Clarence corresponding to Malmsey, Sussex to Sercial and Cumberland to Bual.



Blandy's Duke of Sussex Dry Madeira - view on Amazon.co.uk

Blandy's Duke of Cumberland Medium Rich Madeira - view on Amazon.co.uk

Blandy's Duke of Clarence Full Rich Madeira - view on Amazon.co.uk

A 300-year old tipple

"fresh, clean, lively and a remarkable find" - one taster's comment on sampling a 1670 vintage discovered in London, in a testament to the staying power of madeira.
BBC News

Important!

Out of fashion - in 1888

As far back as 1888 there were concerns that Madeira was going "out of fashion".
NYTimes Archive 1888

“"that Malmsey-nosed knave"
William Shakespeare on Falstaff”

Madeira, M'Dear?

A fortified wine of dubious reputation

Madeira is a lovely wine, but also somewhat strong and therefore perhaps of a dubious reputation for the ladies.

At least, it was in this well-known song by Flanders and Swann (covered by the Limeliters and Jody Applebaum) where it is the tool of seduction for a less than honorable gentleman...

Cooking with Madeira

For Flavour

Madeira is extensively used in cookery, and there are a range of recipes available. Often used as a flavouring for sauces, gravy, and deserts, the good thing about cookery is that you don't need an expensive vintage Madeira.

As well as specific recipes, in many cases, Madeira can be used as a subsitute for recipies that would normally include sherry. However, Madeira can be substantially stronger than some sherries, so it is as well to take this into account.

If you are cooking with Madeira for the first time, consider the type you are using - a sweet Malmsey may be what you want in a trifle, but a very dry Sercial could give you an interesting taste! However that same dry Sercial used in a grape jelly can produce a nice contrast when served with cheese.

The recipe book below contains a range of recipes which feature Madeira, dating back to the early days of the US.

City Tavern Cookbook: Two Hundred Years Of Classic Recipes From America's First Gourmet Restaurant

Amazon Price: $32.50 (as of 02/17/2012)Buy Now
Used Price: $8.90

Available as a book or through Kindle, this covers two hundred years of cookery, including Madeira - which in the early in US history would not often have been "wasted" in cooking.

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Important!

A detailed article on Madeira

All about Madeira by Dulwich-on-view

The Duke of Clarence

A novel method of exection.

The Duke of Clarence Is Drowned in a Butt of Malmsey Wine
The Duke of Clarence Is Drowned in a Butt of Malmsey Wine
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In 1478, the Duke of Clarence was executed for treason by being drowned in a barrel of Malmsey Madeira. Apparently this was at his request.

Instead of down playing this association Blandy's, one of the foremost Madeira producers, has named their Malmsey "Duke of Clarence" in his honour.

The Madeira known as "Duke of Clarence" was originally sold as a Malmsey, but the high proportion of "Tinta Nigra Mole" grapes meant this was banned by EU law.
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Buying madeira online in the US

eBay pre-approved seller

eBay has very strict rules about the sale of wine, and sellers must be pre-approved. One of the few places I have found where you can purchase Madeira online in the US is borisalwine, a New York store.

Remember, the drinking age varies state to state, and they will not sell to underage customers or those suspected of being underage. Check the FAQ on each listing for details.
eBay rules
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Finding Madeira in the UK and Europe

Getting the right vintage

Buy this Madeira on Amazon.co.uk

Ironically, giving how tricky vintages can be to find in the US, in the UK and Europe Madeira is comparatively easy to get hold of. Even one of the main supermarkets stocks a range of the lesser vintages (through to some quite expensive ones). For a range of budget madeira in Europe you can even buy from Amazon.co.uk:

View Madeira on Amazon.co.uk



There are also specialist dealers who can locate distinct vintages for customers. One such is Berry Bros and Rudd in the UK.

Berry Bros

& Rudd

Holders of two royal crests, BBR are a specialist vintners in London, Britain. They have an exceptionally good range, from the affordable to the rare and expensive, and they deliver internationally.
See their Madeira Page

The Madeira Wine Company

The Madeira Wine Company is the main producer of Madeira:
The Official Site

Share your opinions of madeira - a poll

Do you drink madeira?


There are a lot of different types of madeira, so I'm limiting this to the four main groups. Share your opinions - do you like yours sweet, dry or don't you drink it?

If you want to leave more detailed feedback, the guestbook is below.

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More about types of Madeira

Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey

Each of the four types of Madeirahas its own lens, with details about the drink, anecdotes, international suppliers to find rare vintages, and more.
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Blandy's Duke of Clarence - Buy on Amazon.co.uk

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tirial

Madeira is not a well-known drink, but one that I tend to use in cooking (and sometimes drinking...) so I thought I'd share some information on it in this... more »

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Sweet Madeira 

The sweet madeira varieties

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The Dry Madeiras 

The dry Madeira varieties

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Madeira 

Blandy's Madeira for drinking or cooking

Blandy's Malmsey 5 year old

Amazon Price: (as of 02/17/2012)Buy Now

Madeira is often used in cooking, due to its unique taste, and is the base for a range of sauces.