Mae Nak Shrine

The story of Mae Nak (or sometimes Nang Nak) is about a young married couple who lived in a village in the Phra Khanong district of Bangkok. Mae Nak's husband, Tid Mak, is sent away to war and, unknowingly, complications during the birth of their son result in a tragic end for both mother and child.

However, the spirit of Mae Nak refuses to accept death and haunts their house in human form. When Tid Mak returns, he finds his wife and child waiting for him and picks up his life as it was before, unaware that they are ghosts.

Tid Mak eventually realizes the truth and takes refuge in the local temple, Wat Mahabut. Mae Nak's grieving spirit cannot enter the temple grounds and, separated from her one true love, she begins a campaign of terror on the villagers.

Her spirit is finally laid to rest by a monk and the story ends there... or does it? Many Thai people believe that the ghost of Mae Nak still lives on, and sightings continue to be reported to the present day.

Early Mae Nak bust

The origins of the Mae Nak shrine are as obscure as the story of Mae Nak itself, and when the shrine was originally set up within the grounds of Wat Mahabut remains a mystery. However, it is clear that the shrine has evolved over time, and this can be seen in these pictures.

Originally, the bust of Mae Nak herself appears to have been what is probably the top half of a shop mannequin. This would have been partly covered in gold leaf, with more being added by visitors to the shrine (as shown on the right). Additionally, the doll representing her son does not seem to be present (this can be seen in the picture in the introduction), although she may be holding the much smaller babe in arms.

Change of dress and a wig for Mae Nak

Over time, Mae Nak has had several changes of dress and has been adorned with a wig and makeup. The shrine's altar has also become more elaborate with the increasing display of offerings, and the room is filled with dresses, portraits, toys, children's clothes and food for either her or the child.

The picture below shows that a TV set has also been positioned in the room, specifically for Mae Nak to watch. This is reputed to be kept on all day, with Mae Nak's favourite movie Mon Rak Luuk Thung (My Love for a Working Class Man) on a permanent loop.

Mae Nak watching TV

Offerings are also made outside at the Phra Khanong canal, into which visitors can release live fish or wrap a length of colored cloth around the nearby Bo tree.