Make this powerful HDTV antenna out of cardboard!

A FREE Dual-Bowtie design indoor HDTV Antenna

Keep reading. You're about to discover just about the most unlikely thing you could ever expect to be make out of cardboard.

As a high-definition TV owner, you're looking for the easiest, least expensive way to get your local network channels. You may have realized that is something you DO NOT have to pay your cable TV provider for, because crisp, clear digital high-definition signals are available for free from your local TV stations - all you need is the right antenna.

But HDTV antennas can be expensive - $40 to $70 for a good indoor model. Until now!

Presenting some of the best HDTV antenna designs ever offered, and also the least expensive, because you will make them yourself - from cardboard and foil!

Here's a secret you won't hear from an antenna manufacturer: The TV signals themselves don't care what the antenna is made from... as long as the correct arrangement of electrical conductors is present. In our antennas, that's aluminum foil.

Imagine the reaction of your friends and neighbors when they see your super sharp HDTV picture, and you point to a mysterious colored jumble of cardboard on top of your set and say, "...and that's where its coming from!"

As outrageous as it may sound, An antenna made from cardboard and aluminum foil can be just as effective and powerful - or more so - as any other antenna, no matter the cost or construction.

I have taken some of the best antenna designs I could find and modified, experimented, built and rebuilt them until I had the best performing HDTV antennas I have ever tested. they just happen to be made out of cardboard. As you will see, these antennas can be very attractive and artistic. Most people will not even recognize them as TV antennas. Our dual-bowtie antenna can hang on a wall, or feet can be mounted to place it on top of your set or any other flat surface.

First, our Dual-Bowtie HD TV antenna. This one is powerful - it will equal or beat any commercial indoor HDTV antenna for receiving power. If you want an easier-to-build antenna than this one, look at our other page, the Log-Periodic antenna.

Important! Before starting, download our set of PDF patterns below and carefully print them out.

IMPORTANT: Here are the patterns you will print and cut from paper

Dual-Bowtie HDTV Antenna paper patterns
Click above to open your patterns in Adobe reader. You will need LEGAL-SIZE paper to print these

Construction tips

Baluns designed for flat antenna wires or round 75-ohm wiresChoose good sturdy cardboard or other material for these projects. Cardboard is actually one of the best choices for antennas because it is very light, and will offer virtually no interference with the passage of the TV signal. Corrugated carboard is great (it's very airy), and Foamcor is a good choice, too (it's very sturdy and attractive.) You can find Foamcor in lots of different colors at your local office supply store. Corrugated cardboard is not as pretty, but it can be dressed up with paint, felt markers, or construction paper. Plastic should also work fine, though I haven't done specific testing. I don't recommend wood (unless very thin) since it will impede the TV signal slightly.

You'll also need glue. Anything that works on wood/paper, like Gorilla Glue or Elmer's wood glue, should be fine.

Any aluminum foil will work. You'll find it easier to work with thick, heavy-duty foil.

Go ahead and be creative with the construction if you want to. Pay attention to the placement and spacing of the foil, since this is what does the work of receiving the TV signal. Every other part of the design can be expanded, contracted, colored, decorated, or augmented (with non-conductive materials) to customize the antennas to your surroundings.

If you want to use one of these antennas outside, you can modify the basic designs but use sturdier metal. Home improvement stores sell sheet aluminum that is light enough to cut with shears or tin snips. The bowties and reflector (backing) on the bowtie antenna should ideally be made of a porous metallic material like window screen, chicken wire or pulled metal when used outside so it doesn't catch the wind.

To connect the antenna to your receiver, you will need some wire and an adapter, called a "balun" (the word means balanced-to-unbalanced.) For HDTV, your receiver almost certainly has a 75-ohm unbalanced connection. Antennas, including these designs, are usually 300 ohms balanced. So there are two approaches to achieving the right type of connection, and two types of balun:

The first way is to connect 300-ohm twin-lead wire (flat wire) to the antenna, and add a balun at the end of the wire that connects to your TV.

The second way is to connect the balun directly to the antenna, and run 75-ohm coax (round wire) from the antenna to the TV. Both approaches work fine.

Bring the pictures above, so you'll spot what you need. You can find antenna baluns (also called TV matching transformers) and wire at places like Home Depot, Radio Shack, eBay auctions, and even department stores and dollar stores (check the dollar stores first - some stores charge way too much!)

Usage and Placement

The vast majority of HDTV broadcasts take place in the UHF TV band, so this antenna has been optimized for these frequencies. In addition to HDTV, our antenna will also receive standard TV broadcasts on the UHF band.

If you need maximum power, this dual-bowtie antenna is for you. This design can handily outperform other indoor antennas on the market selling for as much as $70. Construction is more complicated than our other design, but you still only need to cut out a half-dozen cardboard pieces.

The placement of your antenna is key. The dual-bowtie antenna can be hung on a wall, but it really needs to be pointed toward the broadcasting TV towers. You will almost certainly have to experiment with placement and rotation until you find the spot where your receiver has a good signal.

The smaller and easier of the two designs is on our other page, our Log-Periodic antenna. . This is a good general-purpose UHF-band antenna that is best suited for urban areas with good strong signals. It is less directional than this Dual-Bowtie antenna design, so it shouldn't need to be as well-aimed or carefully placed. The simpler construction also means that you can use thinner cardboard, if you desire.

In some cases, especially if you are in a home with aluminum siding, you may not be able to acquire an adequate signal indoors. In this case, you still have a couple of options. The first is to place the antenna in your attic, above the influence of your aluminum siding, and run a cable down to your set. The second is to hang the antenna out of a window. In general, this is not something you want to do with a cardboard antenna, but if you add some extra cardboard bracing, enclose the antenna in a plastic bag, and devise a sturdy mount for it - the antenna will be able to survive this way for quite a while. And if the next hurricane blows it away, what have you lost? Just a few cents worth of materials!

Building the Dual Bowtie Indoor HDTV Antenna

The parts of our HD antenna

Don't let the simplicity fool you. This is a powerful antenna, that easily beats an HDTV antenna I paid $50 for. Refer to the diagram and familiarize yourself with the parts.

You can build it in just 12 steps.

Here's what you need:

-About 3 square feet of cardboard or Foamcor - the longest dimension is 14 inches. (I'm using cardboard from an old computer box for my example.)

-Aluminum foil

-Cable, either 75-ohm coaxial, or 300-ohm twin-lead

-A balun (see the section above)

Tools Needed

-Scissors and a pen knife/boxcutter

-Felt pen

-Ruler or tape measure

-Glue

-Tape

-Stapler - or nuts/bolts (see directions to follow.)

STEP 1

-Locate the patterns for the dual-bowtie antenna (above), print and cut them out of the paper as directed.

You should now have patterns for the cardboard bowtie 'wings', the foil bowtie 'wings', support bracket, foot, and a stencil for cutting openings into the reflector (the backing).

STEP 2

-Cut the reflector panel out of a sheet of cardboard. There is no pattern for this, just cut out a piece of cardboard or Foamcor 13 inches by 14 inches. If you wish to paint it, it, or glue construction paper to the front, you may do so now. Now, turn it over, apply a little glue, then cut and attach aluminum foil to cover the entire backside.

STEP 3

-Position the reflector so the long dimension (14) inches runs away from you, and the shorter 13 inch dimension runs right-left. This means the bottom edge of the antenna is now closest to you. Using a ruler, find the exact center of the bottom edge, and place the stencil (sheet C) along the bottom edge of the reflector so the little 'V' arrow points to the center.

Use a piece or two of tape to secure it in place. With your felt-tip marker, mark the slots (where the feet will go) and trace the inside of the two rectangles where the support brackets will mount.

If you plan to use the feet (as opposed to hanging the antenna), go ahead and cut out the foot slots you just marked. Keep the thickness of your cardboard in mind when cutting out these slots - you want the feet to be a tight fit. It's OK to cut these slots a little too skinny, as you can always enlarge them later if you have to.

STEP 4

-Using your pen knife or boxcutter, cut through three sides of the two rectangles you traced onto the reflector.

If you remember from the stencil, the bottom edges of those rectangles were marked with dotted lines. Those are folds, not cuts. If your cardboard or Foamcor is hard to fold, you may make a light score with your knife on the dotted line to make it easier to fold.

These flaps of cardboard will lean out towards the front, and act as a brace for the support brackets. When cutting out the slots where the feet will fit, try to adjust the width of the slots for the material you are using. We want this to be a tight fit, so try to err on the side of making the slots too small. They can always be enlarged later.

STEP 5

-Cut out your other cardboard pieces. Use a small piece of tape to hold the forms in place while you trace around them on your board. You will need two cardboard 'wing sets', two support brackets, and two feet.

After tracing, cut the patterns out of the cardboard, cutting around the INSIDE of the lines (Since you traced the OUTSIDE of the patterns, the correct dimensions are on the inside.)

STEP 6

If you want to paint or color any of these parts, you many do so now. (I'm using a felt pen.) When cutting out the brackets, first do the whole square shape, and then cut out the small slots afterward (I like to cut two sides of the little slots with scissors, then cut the third inside edge with a knife.)

Try to adjust the width of the slots in the brackets for the thickness of the material you are using. We want this to be a tight fit, so try to err on the side of making the slots too skinny. They can always be enlarged later.

STEP 7

-Cut out the foil 'wings' using the foil pattern. We need two of these. Use a small bit of tape or two to hold the form in place while you trace around it onto your foil with your felt marker.

Foil may not cut well with a pen knife or boxcutter, so the scissors may work best. Try both. You will still need your pen knife for the smallest inside cuts, so work carefully. It is very easy to damage the foil while cutting it. If it tears, trace the pattern again and start over.

STEP 8

-If you look at the cardboard wings pattern, you will see dotted lines where folds need to happen. Use your pattern to mark the correct place for these folds on the back of your wings. You'll have the best results making clean folds if you make light cuts (scores) on these lines. Then fold forward (away from the cut), opening up these light cuts.

The halves of each wing should make an angle of approximately 90 degrees to each other. It may spring back, so adjust these folds until they appear to be staying in the right position. Once you are satisfied, put a bead of glue into the scores. This will help hold the position of the folds.

STEP 9

-Spread a light coat of glue over the rest of the wing backs, and down the connecting struts - glue only goes on the inside half of the struts - not the edge where the slots are. Carefully fit the foil wings on top of the glue, position and smooth. The foil connector that goes down the strut does not cover the slots. Repeat for the other set of wings.

STEP 10

-Place each cardboard bracket into one of the rectangular holes on the front of the reflector. To accomplish this, pull the flap forward from the hole, fit the bracket in, and twist it into place so the slots on the bracket engage the edges of the hole. When you let go of the flap, it should support the bracket. Move this flap and find the point where the bracket extends straight out from the reflector, then place a piece of tape to hold the flap and bracket together. We'll glue this later, when all the parts are assembled.
If your antenna will be used on a flat surface, fit the feet onto the bottom of the reflector. If they don't fit tight, you may decide to glue them on.

STEP 11

-Mount the wings to the brackets by matching up the slots on the wings to the ones on the brackets. If everything fits OK, remove, apply a dab of glue, and refit the wings in place. Use a twist-tie or some string to hold the wings in place while the glue dries. Also, pay attention to the position of the wings relative to the reflector. Each wing of the bow tie should stand straight out, and not sag toward the reflector. If necessary, fit a temporary piece of cardboard between the wings and the reflector to hold them in the right place while the glue dries. The distance between the back of a wing and the back of the antenna (the distance from foil to foil) should be 3 1/2 inches.

While you're at it, make sure all the parts fit well, and the antenna sits square and true. Now is a good time to glue the back end of the brackets to the reflector as well.

STEP 12

-Come back when the glue is dry and connect the wiring to the antenna. If connecting twin-lead, separate the wires and strip about 3/4" of the insulation off, then staple the exposed part of the wires to the exact center of the struts between wings. If connecting the balun directly to the antenna, either staple the wires or alternatively, drill or punch a small hole and install a small screw, washers and bolt to the exact center of the strut between wings. Carefully connect the wires from the balun to the screws. (The drawback of screws is that they can never be tightened down hard onto cardboard.)

All Done!

Connect your cardboard dual-bowtie antenna to your receiver and test it. Experiment with the placement and rotation of your antenna until you find a good orientation to leave it in. Generally, the broad front of the antenna should be pointed toward the TV station you want to receive.

Congratulations! You have just built one of the easiest and most powerful indoor HDTV antennas available anywhere!

Want to make another, even easier-to-build antenna? Look at our Log-Periodic HDTV antenna. .

Parts you'll need for your antenna

You'll need a couple of inexpensive parts, which you can find locally, or buy here from Amazon.

You'll need a Balun (one of the first two items) and a cable to to your antenna. The square type Balun is used with the 300-ohm flat wire. The tubular type balun is used with round antenna cable.

You can do it the flat wire way, or the round wire way. The 75-ohm (round) wire is better for long runs of cable. Generally the flat type wiring is better for making shorter cables.
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Comments

  • Tolovaj May 10, 2012 @ 3:54 pm | delete
    This looks too crazy not to be true!
  • Isenman Apr 26, 2012 @ 7:31 pm | delete
    This is an incredible antenna! Just built it and outdoes our $70 Terk. Thanks sooo much for this.
  • SimplyTonjia Mar 15, 2012 @ 1:41 pm | delete
    Seriously, I love this lens. Thank you.
  • Davidb Mar 9, 2012 @ 3:03 pm | delete
    To answer the question about the ball. Most antennas are about capturing over a wide area and channeling signal to a thinner wire, concentrating it. The ball may receive some signal, but wouldn't have that effect.
  • Clintguy Jan 19, 2012 @ 9:04 pm | delete
    I just made this and it's also the BEST FM antenna. It just replaced a $70 amplified Terk, pulling in distant stations clearly that I could barely lock in previously--am listening to WFMU in Jersey City here in Queens!
  • tschulten Dec 10, 2011 @ 7:38 pm | delete
    Just finished building this antenna. It works really, really well. Thanks for posting all the instructions!
  • Hip_and_Hot Sep 14, 2011 @ 10:09 am | delete
    Great Job! I Like your ideas on both antennas. Question for you.... Why can't I wrap foil around a styrofoam sphere/ball and then hook the balun and wires up that way? Won't this capture the HD TV signal from all directions???
  • MiddleSister Sep 4, 2011 @ 1:47 pm | delete
    Awesome!!! I'm gathering the supplies momentarily.
  • xbumper Aug 21, 2011 @ 1:31 am | delete
    Wow I built one of these using your lens and it works Sooo much better than my rabbit ears! Thanks. Great Lens
  • apeweek Aug 17, 2011 @ 9:59 pm | delete
    Rob, it would certainly be sturdier made from sheet metal, and better for outdoor use. The performance of the antenna wouldn't change, though, the TV signal doesn't care what kind of metal its made from.
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apeweek

Author, one book with Simon and Schuster. Worked also in TV production, software development, and music. And yes, I really do all those things I write... more »

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