Masters of Mexican Silver

Mexican Silver Jewelry is one of the great areas of 20th century jewelry collecting. Taxco, an old mining area between Mexico City and Acapulco, has produced many of these great pieces. While the area was known for its silver mines, it was not historically known for producing silver objects or jewelry. William Spratling, a professor from the United States, came to research Mexican culture in Taxco. He loved the area, relocated there in 1929, and was responsible for the birth of the first of the great silver workshops in the area.

This wonderful Amethyst brooch, from the 1940s, shows a wonderful stylized parrot, evoking both the native styles of Mexico and the impact of the recent Art Deco period.

As a teenager, Antonio Pineda began his silversmithing apprenticeship at William Spratling's Taller de las Delicias workshop. In 1941, this talented silversmith began his own studio, and was exhibiting internationally by the mid-1940s. Gump's, the famed San Francisco jeweler, featured his work through the 1950s. His association with Valentin Vidauretta and continued schooling in his craft helped him develop a signature style, and his workshop's pieces are known for their craftsmanship. The popularity of his work led him to open a second workshop in the 1950s, and he did a great deal to make Taxco the center of the Mexican Silver work.

These cufflinks, made in the 1950s, are done in 970 silver, favored by Pineda, although he also worked in 980 silver and 925 sterling silver.

The workshop of Los Castillo was started in 1939, by the Castillo brothers: Antonio, Jorge, Miguel, and Justo. Antonio Castillo was married to Margot van Voorhies Carr, and encouraged her to become in the workshop's designs. After their divorce, she started her own workshop, Margot de Taxco. Los Castillo was known for a wide range of designs, and for their work in mixed metals. All but the earliest work, Los Castillo pieces are marked with a design or inventory number.

Margot van Voorhies Carr relocated from the United States to Mexico in 1937. She soon married Antonio Castillo, and designed many pieces for the Los Castillo workshop. Divorced from Antonio in 1948, she opened her own shop, Margot de Taxco. She was well known for her work in champleve enamel, which began around 1955.

Margot remained active until her death in 1974. The Margot de Taxco shop closed in 1978. A number of other silversmiths, including Miguel Arias, Geronimo Fuentes, Hilario Lopez, Miguel Melendez, Jaime Quiroz, and Melecio Rodriguez. Some of these artists continued to use Margot's production molds after the shop closed. Work from the Margot de Taxco shop is normally clearly marked, and includes a design number.

Héctor Aguilar was another protege of William Spratling. He managed Spratling's Taller de Las Delicias for several years before starting his own shop. While his shop included a number of great silver smiths, he may be best known for pieces associated with other companies.

From 1943 until around 1950, Aguilar produced many items for Coro. These pieces bear the Coro name, along with marks indicating that they were made in Mexico, and are normally marked "Silver". No indication of the involvement of Aguilar's shop is normally present on the item.

The Aguilar shop produced aviator wings during World War II. These normally have the conjoined "HA' mark associated with the shop. Pieces made by Plateria Azteca bear the stylized mark of that shop, but have Eagle marks associated with Aguilar, Eagle 9 and Eagle 31. The Eagle 31 mark is also found on the items made by Conquistador, the successor to Plateria Azteca. These are hollow ware items made by these shops, under contract to Aguilar, and the shops were actually located in Mexico City.

Eagle 1 and Eagle 3 marks are found on other items from Aguilar's shop. Aguilar's mark was a conjoined H and A, and the style of the mark varies. Taxco and Mexico, or Made in Mexico, are also present on most pieces. Sterling, 940 Silver, and 990 Silver were used, and are indicated by appropriate marks. Some early pieces from Aguilar's workshop are marked "KTV", the initials of three financial backers of the venture.

Aguilar's retail shop, Taller Borda,opened in 1948. The retail shop sold pieces from the Aguilar workshops, along with items from William Spratling's workshops. Taller Borda closed in the 1960s, although dates given by various sources vary.