McleodGanj, India

There are several great reasons to come to McleodGanj...

For many, it is the desire to study Buddhism or simply be in close proximity to the home of HH the Dalai Lama.
Others come as volunteers, to teach conversational English or computer skills.
Still others want to study here...courses range from Tibetan Buddhism and language to cooking (both Tibetan and Indian), Hindi language, and massage.
There are also yoga schools and Buddhist retreats.
Look for links in the sections below.

Another reason is the stunning natural setting. Located in the Himalayan foothills, McleodGanj is a base for trekking into the Himalayas. There are day hikes as well as longer outings which can all be arranged through local guides.

While there are many options, if McleodGanj is your primary destination, I recommend flying into Delhi (New Delhi) Indira Gandhi Airport, which is a very clean modern facility.

From the airport, you can arrange a pre-paid taxi (look for the stand inside) or hire any taxi or auto-rickshaw to take you to the Kashmiri Gate ISBT (main bus terminal).
From ISBT you should take a Himachal Tourism coach (Volvo, non-AC or AC) to Dharamsala (lower). From Lower Dharamsala ask for the local bus to McleodGanj (hint: it does NOT sound like "mc-cloud-ganj" but much more run together, almost one syllable, very hard to explain!)

Most HP buses leave Delhi in the evening and arrive at Dharamsala around 6am! It is a 12+ hour journey. The road can be very bumpy.

Other options include flying into Kangra Airport (one flight daily from Delhi) or taking the train to Pathankot and a local bus from there.

Lonely Planet India provides many details for the journey. I also highly recommend the IndiaMike.com forums website!

As elsewhere in India, where to stay depends much on your personal preference, as there is a wide range of guesthouses and hotels for every imaginable budget.

For 100 INR (Indian rupees) per night you can get a shared dorm with a shared bath...that's about $2 (yes, TWO US dollars).
For 500 INR per night (roughly $10 USD) you can get a spacious double room with private bath including 24 hr running hot water.
Higher end options also exist.

The longer you stay, the more you should negotiate down the price. Most hotels EXPECT you to negotiate the price! Don't be afraid to ask LOW, and don't be afraid to walk away if you don't want to pay the asked amount.
I had a double room with private bath, cable tv and a balcony overlooking the Himalayas for 4500 INR (about $80 USD) per MONTH (thanks to help from my local friends) !

Also, be aware, prices can rise dramatically during high season (mid-March through mid-October) or any time His Holiness the Dalai Lama is giving teachings.

Popular options include:
Mount View Hotel on Jogiwara Road, run by several friendly young Kashmiri men.
Kunga Guesthouse on Bhagsu Road
The Green Hotel on Bhagsu Road
Hotel Ladies Venture on lower Jogiwara Road

Some monasteries also provide lodging. Ask around.

Dining in Mcleod is an adventure in itself.
As with hotels, there are options for every budget and taste.

Trying Tibetan specialties is a MUST. Start with momos (choose from veg or potato, steamed or fried). And yes, get them from the street vendors!
You should also sample thukpa (a rich noodle soup) and the local version of "chow mein" (which is what Americans know as lo mein, or the Indians call Hakka noodle). Thentuk is also good.
And life is not complete unless you have tried pocha, Tibetan butter tea! My personal experience is that you will hate it the first time, be able to sip it slowly the second...and by the fourth time you have it, you'll be asking for repeat glasses (especially if you get it served by monks during a pooja at the Main Temple!)
I never had a bad experience at a Tibetan restaurant, although at smaller eateries, where food is fresh and authentic, you may find yourself crammed at a table with curious locals who don't speak English...but that's part of the experience!

There are Indian food joints and street vendors scattered all over town. Some say "A Taste of India" on lower Jogiwara road is best, although I found them average, and very slow. I HIGHLY recommend Moonpeak Thali (upstairs above CoffeeTalk Cafe) in lower Temple Road (left-hand side as you go down).

Western-style eateries are popular, mainly Italian. I recommend Nick's Cafe at Kunga's Guesthouse in Bhagsu Road as well as Jimmy's Italian Kitchen (upstairs) on Jogiwara Road. Nick's has amazing pastas, while Jimmy's makes fabulous pizzas and chicken dishes.

Coffeehouses and wifi cafes are growing inceasingly popular. TennorCafe in Bhagsu Road now has (as of autumn 2011) the fastest wifi in town.
My personal favorite (for atmosphere, food quality and service) is CoffeeTalk on Lower Temple Road, left hand side.
(keep in mind, at ALL internet/wifi cafes, the connection can be slow & erratic depending on a variety of factors including time of day, time of year, and weather conditions).

Again...personal preference.

Top sites include the Main Temple (Tsulgukhang) of HH the 14th Dalai Lama and the surrounding "kora" (ask any local), or circumambulatory path lined with prayer flags, mantras carved into stone and painted bright colors, and prayer wheels.
There are several other monasteries around town, some obvious, others hidden in alleys or in dilapidated buildings.

Interested in shopping? Street stalls and shops have everything from traditional to modern jewelry from both Tibet and India. Shawls (pashminas) are a favorite. You can also acquire statues of any and every Hindi or Buddhist deity. Everyday clothing is available as well as trekking gear.
Other choices are fabulous Tibetan tangkas, incense, CDs of traditional music and scores of films regarding the situation in Tibet...the list goes on.
BE SURE TO BARGAIN!

Like nature? Trek to Triund, or beyond. Triund is a day hike. Allow 3-5 hours up depending on your physical condition. Remember that you are starting from an altitude of about 10,000 ft above sea level!
Longer treks into the Himalayas can be arranged from many hotels and tour agents.

Culture more your thing? Ask about current events (usually held in the evening) at TIPA Tibetan Institute for Performing Arts.
Make sure to visit Norbulingka Institute below town as well as the Library of Tibetan Works, where the offices of the CTA, Central Tibetan Administration (Tibet's government in exile) are located. Also at the LTW is Nechung Monastery, where the fascinating Nechung Oracle is located. There is also a museum of Tibetan culture and history at the library.

McleodGanj is a small town in a remote area of Himachal Pradesh. While western influence has brought many modern amenities, it is still India, and it is still a very small community.

You will see or experience:
*"no lights" (as the locals say)...ie, frequent (sometimes daily) power outages generally lasting from 5 minutes to several hours...minor nuisances...really, get used to it. When you look at the wiring, you will appreciate that there is power at all, and that the whole town has not burnt down.

*burning rubbish/streetside waste disposal...while McleodGanj has a clean-up program and many designated waste disposal areas (unlike much of the rest of India), it is still quite common for people to throw rubbish of all sorts on the street or in the open running gutters. You will also see, and SMELL, rubbish piles being burned.

*beggars-lepers-scams...Beggars are common in India. Be wary! Whilst some are in genuine need of help, others know every trick in the book to separate you from your money. It may sound cruel, but it is best to walk past them without even acknowledging you are aware of their presence. If you feel moved to give money, do not feel bad about only giving a 1, 2 or 5 rupee coin! DO NOT fall for the scam of buying milk for children who say they need it for their family. They will quickly resell it for a higher amount.
Also while I was there, there was one very persistent local drunk who would follow you and harass you for food and or money. He is very tall and usually wears an orange outfit and can be extremely over-bearing.
There is also a sadhu who walks around town carrying a trident who will stare you down. Sometimes beggars will come stand beside or even sit at your table.
Use your good judgment.

*water shortages...some budget hotels may only have water a few days out of the week, especially if rain/snow has been low that year

*public urination...the rules regarding bathrooms in India? when you gotta go, you gotta go...man, woman, child...on the street, behind a bush...you get the idea. Also be prepared to carry your own toilet roll as many bathrooms in restaurants do not provide it. In some establishments you may find the local squat toilet is the only option.

*Women should be prepared for unwelcome attention from local men. It is best to learn not to try to be nice/polite. Niceness is interpreted in India as a sign that you are interested and available. If you smile, you are inviting trouble. Rape happens. Date rape, also.
Be aware that not all the friendly Tibetan boys are innocent, either. Boys are boys.
Even those who are "safe" may still make love declarations, asking to be your boyfriend. There are often quick marriage proposals. While you may find a good partner, it is just as likely that you are someone's ticket to a visa and a way out of poverty and exile.
Again, think long and hard.

Cows, donkeys, dogs, monkeys...everywhere. They will be in the middle of the street. Dogs will wander into cafes. Monkeys will be above your head.
Remember to be kind to all sentient beings.