My Trip To Ireland

With only 6 full days there, my sister and I had to prioritize where we would go. We would be driving a rented car - on unfamiliar narrow roads and on a different side of the road than we were used to. We decided that it would not be wise to use up our precious six days driving.

With these considerations in mind, we focused on Western Ireland because our ancestors were from County Mayo.

The first three days we were based in Clifden (County Galway), where we could explore County Mayo and Connemara. The last three days we stayed in Ballyvaughan, where we could explore the city of Galway, County Clare and the Burren.

This meant that we would not be visiting Dublin, a bit of a disappointment, but it also gave us an excuse to go back! To save driving time, we flew into Shannon Airport through Dublin.

From Shannon airport, we drove to Clifden, stopping for lunch and some shopping in the city of Galway. From Shannon Airport to the city of Galway is about a one hour drive, Galway to Clifden is another hour.

Clifden is in the heart of Connemara, a place of wild countryside, unproductive soils and a rough and windy climate, made up of moors, mountains, and lakes. It has remained mostly free from English occupation; a region where you will hear the Gaelic language often and experience the traditional ways of life.

The town of Clifden is surrounded by the Twelve Pins mountains and the Atlantic Ocean, it was founded in 1812 by John D'Arcy. Their famous Connemara Pony Show is held every August. The ruins of Clifden Castle can be found on the Sky Road outside of town, a spectacular drive!

First stop was Foyles' Hotel in Clifden. This quaint but modernized hotel feels like a B&B. It has been owned and managed by the Foyle family for nearly a century.

Located right in town, there are numerous pubs in the area and an 18-hole championship golf course only 15 minutes away. We chose to stay in each place for three days not only for the convenience but because many hotels offer package deals for three night stays. This hotel offered three nights Bed and Full Irish Breakfast with dinner on one evening at their Marconi Restaurant. We definitely took advantage of the meal deals.

The sky road which takes you along cliffs with the Atlantic Ocean right below is one of the most spectacular drives I have ever experienced. You will see sheep, horses and cows grazing, amazing ocean views, as well as the ruins of Clifden Castle.

Westport, County Mayo is about a two hour drive from Clifden and there are some exciting things to do in this area. We spent a day in Westport, stopping at Kylemore Abbey on the way.

Croagh Patrick
Known as a sacred mountain, there is a tradition of pilgrimage to this mountain's peak for more than 5,000 years! It is said that on the summit of this mountain, Saint Patrick, Ireland's patron saint, fasted for forty days in 441 AD. The Black Bell of Saint Patrick has been a highly venerated relic on Croagh Patrick for many years.

It takes a whole day (depending on your fitness level) to climb this mountain and come back down. We did not climb due to time constraints and weather but we did go to the Visitor's Center and saw the bell. Also, the coffin ship memorial for the potato famine was right across the street.

Westport House
This castle is famous for being the home of Grace O'Malley , the Pirate Queen of Connaught. There is a bronze statue of Grace on the grounds. Many a story has been written about Grace! The home is still owned privately by the Browne family, direct descendants of Grace O'Malley. Besides touring the castle, you can stroll the grounds with its lake, gardens and beautiful views or visit the Pirate Adventure Park on site. Camping is also available.

Matt Molloy's pub
Located in the town of Westport on Bridge Street, this pub is owned by a flute-playing member of the famous Irish band, the Chieftains. We hoisted a pint in the afternoon here.

Coffin Ship Memorial to the Potato Famine
Located across from Croagh Patrick. Many who left Ireland in the mid-1800's due to the potato famine, were headed for America. The ships taking these people became known as coffin ships because many died on the journey, due to disease, hunger, or the ship sinking! See the video below. Incredible depiction.

On our way to the town of Westport in County Mayo we stopped at Kylemore Abbey, home to Benedictine nuns since 1920.

It was originally built between 1863 and 1868 as a castle for the family of Mitchell Henry, a wealthy politician from Manchester, England. There is a neo-Gothic church on the property which is a miniature replica of Norwich Cathedral and made from local green Connemara marble.

Also on the property is a beautiful walled garden, visitor center and restaurant. The gift shop is quite extensive and includes pottery made on the site.

This is a popular spot for tour buses and is about 20 km. north of Clifden.

From Clifden, we took the coastal road along the north side of Galway Bay, through the city of Galway, and then along the south side of Galway bay to Ballyvaughan. There is so much to explore in this area that we could have stayed a whole week.

We managed to explore the Burren, the town of Ballyvaughan, the coastal road through Fanore and the Cliffs of Moher. If you have more time, you could also visit these major attractions, the Aran Islands and Ailwee Caves.

The Hylands-Burren Hotel was our next stop in Ballyvaughan. Again, we had a package deal - three nights Bed & Full Irish Breakfast in a traditional room with one dinner in their restaurant. This was a lovely hotel with a pub and restaurant and internet access in the lobby. It is right in the heart of Ballyvaughan.

The Cliffs of Moher is another spot where tour buses flock. But it is well worth fighting the crowds. Unfortunately, it was so foggy and rainy the day we were there that we could barely see the cliffs! So I have to rely on beautiful posters like the one below.

The Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Munster, Eire (Republic of Ireland) Photographic Print
Rainford, Roy
Buy at AllPosters.com

Aillwee Caves, one of the oldest cave systems in Ireland, lies in the heart of the Burren. This cave was formed by the glacial melt waters from an early ice age.

Besides touring the cave, there is also a birds of prey center, farm shop with award-winning cheeses made on site, a craft shop with fossils, gemstones and other gifts, mountain trails for hiking, and a restaurant with home-baked goods.

The Aran Islands consist of three limestone islands: Inishmore, Inishmaan, and Inisheer. On all three islands you will find steep cliffs, stone walls, and a windswept, rocky landscape. Ferries to these islands are available daily from Rossaveel, Galway, and Doolin or you can go by plane from Galway.

Read what Rick Steves has to say about the Aran Islands.

Dun Aenghus, Fort Above the Cliffs, Dating from 1st Century Bc, Inishmore, Aran Islands, Eire Framed Art PrintBott, Brigitte
Buy at AllPosters.com>

What can I say about the beautiful writer and poet, John O'Donohue, except that he is one of Ireland's treasures and is from the west coast? You will have to visit my webpage on this great man to find out more.

O'Donohue is buried in the town of Fanore, along the coast southwest of Ballyvaughan. His tragic early death at the age of 52 in 2008 devastated his many followers. If you want to get a feel for Celtic spirituality and the western Ireland landscape, read his books!

My sister and I headed for the little town of Fanore, knowing that O'Donohue's gravesite was there. We stopped at a little house on the coastal road that had a sign saying that they offered sandwiches and tea. We were hungry and thought we might get directions to O'Donohue's gravesite.

The woman inside invited us into her kitchen and talked to us while making us a sandwich and pot of tea. It turns out she knew O'Donohue and her children had gone to school with him. She also directed us to his gravesite, less than a mile up the road.

One of my favorite experiences in Ireland!